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  1. #301
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    Hi! May I ask what is the difference in terms of specs for 2012 SB 95A Enduro and 2013 SB 95A Enduro and which would be a better buy?

  2. #302
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    The '12 has a lower MSRP (by 400$).

    I don't have the '12 specs and Yeti only has the '13 online but IIRC they have not changed.

    Depending on when it '12 the bike shipped the '12 model may have non-CTD fox suspension.

    My "shipped in May" bike came with CTD fork but non-CTD shock.

  3. #303
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    Thanks for the info! May I know how much you paid for 2012 model?

  4. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by SirKingPenguin View Post
    Thanks for the info! May I know how much you paid for 2012 model?
    Mine was Race not Enduro, and I had to pay MSRP (4500) + sales tax, came out to about 4700.

    IIRC the Enduro was MSRP 3500. For me the extra 1k was worth the full-XT group over the SRAM, as I knew I wouldn't be okay with the Avid brakes to begin with. Over the last year I've spent too much money customizing the drivetrain (chainrings, cassette replacement, new front and rear derailleurs) but then none of the stock bikes had the gearing I wanted (24/36 2x front), but that's just me being stupid picky.

  5. #305
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    I think I will be getting Race too. May I know if you bought your bike from a LBS or a online store?

  6. #306
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    SB 95 Build Thread?

    I purchased my SB 95 last June through Competitive Cyclist. Primary reason for purchasing through them was ability to select appropriate components for my need. Their build tool is pretty slick to get an idea of pieces/weight etc. Once I saved the build I spoke with a sales rep and negotiated pricing on many of the items.

  7. #307
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    I couldn't buy through Competitive Cyclist because of the restrictions as I am living in the Asia region. Is there another online store that ships Yeti bikes to Asia region?

  8. #308
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    I just ordered an SB95A from a LBS in Golden, CO. I actually went to look at a SC Tallboy LT but they had the SB95 race kit for $3,200 and after a demo I could not pass it up. Pick it up in two days and they are setting it up tubeless and then will add a dropper post. Now to choose between the Reverb and the Ks Lev.

  9. #309
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    Awesome--congrats, and great find at that price! I've ridden both bikes (own an SB-95a), and I think you made the right choice. I LOVE the shorter tallboy for its intended purpose, but the LT feels a little rangey with too steep of a headtube angle compared to the Yeti. Maybe I would have gotten used to it, but the SB-95 felt like home from the very first ride.
    Keith in Corvallis

    Yeti SB-95 Race
    Yeti Big Top Race
    Niner SIR 9 SS
    Foundry Auger
    Vulture SS
    GT GTR Carbon Expert

  10. #310
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    Re: SB 95 Build Thread?

    Awesome price, mind sharing where you got it?

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

  11. #311
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    Was at Golden Bike shop. Said I got the last one in medium, and I am not sure if they have anymore in the race kit.

  12. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubbaduba View Post
    Was at Golden Bike shop. Said I got the last one in medium, and I am not sure if they have anymore in the race kit.
    I see, congrats on the deal.

  13. #313
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    Access to front der cable anchor bolt ???

    I'm building up an SB95. Using a 9-speed era SLX M665 e-type front derailleur that works nicely with my 22/32/bash setup.

    The cable anchor bolt is positioned such that its pointing directly at the non-driveside chainstay, so there is no space to get an allen wrench on it.

    Have others faced this issue? What did you do to get around it? Seems like the new 10-sp front ders would have the same issue since the cable arrangement seems the same.

    The options I'm considering:
    a) take a single L-shape 5mm allen wrench and cut the short end down; I think it would fit into the limited space and still have enough length to seat in the bolt head.
    b) mark the cable at the approximate position point, remove front der, attach cable, re-install front der. Repeat until well fitted.
    c) exchange the allen head cable anchor bolt for a "normal" hex bolt that will take an open ended wrench.

    Thanks for any insight.

  14. #314
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    Nevermind . . .

    The front der wasn't seated properly. Duh. Now I've got good 5mm tool access.

    I knew there was a reason that searches didn't show up any similar situations.

  15. #315
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    Quick question I fired off in the 95-C thread - what would everyone's thoughts be of rolling CB Cobalt 2 wheels with the 95-A or 95-C?

  16. #316
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    never have ridden cobalts but most reviews say they are ok...there is a set of mavic st's on the classified section. I loved mine on my 575..durable and maintenance free!

  17. #317
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    My 95a XL

    30.8 lbs
    XO, Eastons, 34 talas soon to have enve DH bars and 50mm stem

    it is a great bike
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SB 95 Build Thread?-img_1661.jpg  

    SB 95 Build Thread?-img_1662.jpg  


  18. #318
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    SB95a front derailleur bolt.

    Just got my XT build kit. I mounted the front derailleur with bolts provided by Yeti and one of the bolts stick out past the frame towards the pivot once screwed all the way in. Doesn't look like it will hit anything under suspension load but wanted to see if this was normal.

    Thanks

    Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk HD

  19. #319
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    Are the bolts the same length?

    If you dismount the shock and move the rear tri through travel you should be able to verify whether there's any interference or not.

    I don't recall noticing any bolt sticking out on mine, BUT I took it off about a month ago when I went 1x so I can't easily check at the moment. Sorry.

  20. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    Are the bolts the same length?

    If you dismount the shock and move the rear tri through travel you should be able to verify whether there's any interference or not.

    I don't recall noticing any bolt sticking out on mine, BUT I took it off about a month ago when I went 1x so I can't easily check at the moment. Sorry.
    No one is shorter than the other but the hole towards front of the bike is closed, meaning you cant tread a bolt through so I used shorter bolt on that hole.

  21. #321
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    Re: SB 95 Build Thread?

    Sorry, misspoke. Both holes do go through, but I used the shorter bolt in front so it doesn't stick out.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

  22. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post

    I don't recall noticing any bolt sticking out on mine, BUT I took it off about a month ago when I went 1x so I can't easily check at the moment. Sorry.
    Bear, what's your 1X setup?

  23. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by addATX View Post
    Bear, what's your 1X setup?
    Race Face 32t Single Ring, black.
    Shimano XT 10-spd cassette, 12x36 (or is it 11t small?)
    KMC X10 Ti chain
    MRP AMG guide/bash

    I had been 2x for a year and happy with it (24/36 front with MRP XCG bash and SRAM X0 front-d) but folded over the XCG on a rock hit about 45 degrees (thankfully away from the rings). I couldn't find a replacement back-plate or XCG before my summer vacation so bit the bullet and went 1x. I survived riding in Pisgah NC so I think it's a keeper.

    The AMG back-plate is like 2x the thickness of the XCG, the taco looks the same. The fit was tight on the XB95 (requires 1 2mm and 1 2.5mm bolt on spacer to clear the rear triangle) but seems to work well. The AMG also required me to have 2 1mm spacers on the crank spindle though, drive-side, on my XT 3x crankset, to make the chain not excessively drag on the inner plate of the upper guide. I suppose with one of those fancy-pants chainrings you may get away without an upper guide but I just don't yet believe it.
    Last edited by bear; 07-17-2013 at 08:57 PM.

  24. #324
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    Thanks. I've been wanting to go 1x, but haven't yet. Can't decide if I should just wait til next bike

  25. #325
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    Quote Originally Posted by addATX View Post
    Thanks. I've been wanting to go 1x, but haven't yet. Can't decide if I should just wait til next bike
    If you end up needing to do some kind of significant replacement up front it's not necessarily NOT worth trying ... just drop 2 or 4 teeth of the chainring, get one that is NOT ramped and pinned, and go for it. The top-side guide is not NECESSARY but I like having the safety-belt that I know the chain WILL NOT DROP from there. I think the new-old-fangled big-little chainrings ala:XX1 are interesting but I am seeing more and more traffic about when they get older they don't retain as well. You don't even need a "clutch" derailleur, or a rear derailleur change at all. I was already running a Shimano Zee "FR" but it certainly would have worked as well with the stock XT.

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