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  1. #1
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    SB-95 '12 not as efficient as I read...

    Hey Guys,

    I've got a '12 SB-95 with a FOX Float RP23 adaptive logic shock. everywhere i read, I'm told how efficient the pedaling platform is on the SB's, which is one of the big reasons I bought it + it just felt right! But mine just doesn't feel like it should, mainly on long fire roads, pinch climbs or when i stand up and put the power down. I'm only 165 without gear & I'm running 170 psi @ 4 clicks, Pro Pedal seems to do nothing. Am i expecting too much? or possibly my shock need a tweak/replace?

    Any comments/suggestions appreciated!

    Cheers

  2. #2
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    I have the SB66, and it took me a while to realize that you really have to have the sag set on your shock between 23-30% for the switch linkage to work correctly, so much so I leave it in descend mode on the CTD shock with zero bobbing. What are you currently running?

  3. #3
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    I'd think 15-20% sag... 10mm
    Last edited by chizzey; 10-22-2013 at 05:28 PM. Reason: additional information

  4. #4
    undercover brother
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    15-19 mm of sag = 23-30% sag. Trust me. If you are running 15% sag that is why you have not seen the pedalling efficiency. Plus, at 15% sag, I'm sure your suspension is stiff as ****! Leave it at the current pressure and pedal around and watch the shock/linkage area, and I bet you will see some bobbing. Then set it to 25% and do the same and see the difference. When you sink into your suspension, the rear chainstays move back and your pedaling forces counteract the rearward travel. Its a pretty fine line to set the suspension to get the most of out the SB switch linkage, but once you do its night and day.

  5. #5
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    I also concur that the '95 wants to sit deeper in the travel than some would think.

    Old-school "stiffen it up with more air" doesn't work.

    After about 2700 miles on my bike I figure the *least* sag mine should have is about 28%.

  6. #6
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    That's exactly what I see when I look down. Thanks, I was definitely thinking old school. Thanks for the help, its opened my eyes. Can't wait to try it...

  7. #7
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    I agree with everything that's said here. When I dropped the pressure on my bike so that I was closer to 30% sag, I found the bike finally came alive. It would soak up the little bumps and even the bigger ones while still keeping the tires engaged and rolling. I also find that riding wide open with the rear shock on Descend is the optimal setting for any kind of technical riding up or down. The only time I flip to Trail is when I'm riding fireroad or super smooth singletrack.

    For reference, I weigh about 195 and I find that 175 psi (7 clicks?) is just right for my shock and my riding style.
    That creep can roll, man.

  8. #8
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    Back again guys, I did everything as suggested, but didnt really seem to help. So dropped all the air out of the shock and cycled it, this video is what i found. Thoughts please....

    Last edited by chizzey; 10-28-2013 at 02:35 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by chizzey View Post
    Back again guys, I did everything as suggested, but didnt really seem to help. So dropped all the air out of the shock and cycled it, this video is what i found. Thoughts please....

    I had heard that the Switch eccentric really doesn't move much through the travel, but wow. I wonder how the bike would ride as a straight single pivot in that location?

  10. #10
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    subscribed. Owners manual says to basically run your weight in psi I thought... I've had mine set to about 200psi and I'm 210 RTR. Compared to it a DW Link Ibis Ripley last weekend and I have to say I think the Yeti climbs better (and kills it on the way down).

  11. #11
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    Your switch mech is stuck.

  12. #12
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    SB-95 '12 not as efficient as I read...

    So what do you do about a stuck switch?


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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cbopleasanthill View Post
    So what do you do about a stuck switch?
    Rebuild it.

    Replace any bearings that are shot, replace the non-drive-side bushing if needed.

    The bearing cartridges tapped out fairly easily on mine last winter, my bushing was in fine shape and I didn't bother replacing it.

    Owing to weird circumstances I ended up with an extra over-sized quad-o-ring so I used it to add some weather sealing on the bushing side - the 'spec only has a quad-o-ring seal outboard of the large drive-side switch bearing. I've had nary a sqeek from the bike all year and figure I have something less than a month to go before weather shuts me down from riding it.

    The owner's manual has photograph supported instructions for tear-down/assembly. The only "fancy" tools you should have on hand would be a 1.5" headset press to push in the large bearing and from what I hear that works for the bushing too. I'll find out about the latter this winter sometime I'm pretty sure.


  14. #14
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    FWIW, my switch does not rotate either, at least in the first 1/2 of compression (w/o letting air out). Nothing like this Yeti SB 66 Switch suspension - YouTube granted this is a 66, but still...

  15. #15
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    The '95 doesn't move as much as the '66, for sure, but at least mine does move in both directions.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    The '95 doesn't move as much as the '66, for sure, but at least mine does move in both directions.
    So, I'm curious Bear, when you just lean on the seat to compress the shock with your weight (I can get about 1/2 shock travel this way), do you see the switch move, and if so, how much. I know this isn't scientific, but I really don't want to tear it down if I don't have to, as I'm knowledge and tool challenged.

  17. #17
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    Should the sag be set while the CTD shock is in the trail or desend mode? I have always had it in the trail mode but read on Fox's website last night that it should be in descend mode. Not even sure if it makes a difference or not.

    Just to add to this thread for another experience. I weigh 180lbs geared up. If I run the rear shock b/t 25%-30% sag then I will use all of the travel on the rear without going over jumps, drops, or anything that I would expect to bottom the rear suspension out. If I run the rear shock at 20% sag then the bike rides higher in the travel and seems more responsive and quicker. Yes at 20% sag it's not as plush as if it were at 25%-30% but it feels faster and easier to get up climbs and hop over logs. I have also found with my bike (CTD rear shock) I have to run my body weight +5-10psi to get 25%-30% sag. If i follow the general rule on the Yeti owner's manual of body weight -10psi then the sag is more like 35% and blows through the travel on the smallest of bumps.

    Maybe all of this is due to the fact that the CTD shock is crap (at least that's what I read of the 2013 models). I just personally find that running the rear shock at 25%-30% sag uses the travel way to easily. Maybe it's time for a custom tune over the winter.

  18. #18
    undercover brother
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    I had this dilemna... all will be solved with $25 fox air can volume spacers. Yeti, for some reason, specs the bikes with a very linear tune on the shock. I installed the largest air can spacer and it feels like a new shock. Very plush throughout the beginning and mid stroke and a noticeable ramp up towards the end of the stroke. Perfect for my sb66 and I ride fairly aggressive.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by mblittle View Post
    Should the sag be set while the CTD shock is in the trail or desend mode? I have always had it in the trail mode but read on Fox's website last night that it should be in descend mode. Not even sure if it makes a difference or not.

    Just to add to this thread for another experience. I weigh 180lbs geared up. If I run the rear shock b/t 25%-30% sag then I will use all of the travel on the rear without going over jumps, drops, or anything that I would expect to bottom the rear suspension out. If I run the rear shock at 20% sag then the bike rides higher in the travel and seems more responsive and quicker. Yes at 20% sag it's not as plush as if it were at 25%-30% but it feels faster and easier to get up climbs and hop over logs. I have also found with my bike (CTD rear shock) I have to run my body weight +5-10psi to get 25%-30% sag. If i follow the general rule on the Yeti owner's manual of body weight -10psi then the sag is more like 35% and blows through the travel on the smallest of bumps.

    Maybe all of this is due to the fact that the CTD shock is crap (at least that's what I read of the 2013 models). I just personally find that running the rear shock at 25%-30% sag uses the travel way to easily. Maybe it's time for a custom tune over the winter.
    You should set the sag with the shock in Descend mode. Setting sag in trail mode could cause you to be over sagging the shock. The travel is there for you to use. One square edge hit on a rock or rut is enough to use it all and easily as harsh as a landing from a drop or jump, and if the shock is working you shouldn't feel it. Do you feel like you mechanically bottoming out the shock?

    I would reset the sag with the shock in descend. After that I would go find a flowey trail and use the shock in trail mode and hit a couple bermed corners. If the bike feels like it's exiting the corners without the rear collapsing your most likely fine. In trail mode you should be able to pump the bike through corners and over the trail without a dead feeling from the rear.

    My SB66 CTD is pushed, but before that I always had it in trail 2 and it worked mostly fine. I only used descend on certain trails that are really rocky and blown out, where after clearing a gap or landing a jump/drop, I needed the shock to smooth out the rutted or rocky landing area.

  20. #20
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    SB-95 '12 not as efficient as I read...

    OK, I just bought a 2012 sb95 on close out and have significant pedal bob with the shock wide open and sag 25-30%. So I let the air out of the shock, cycled it as in the video, and the switch didn't move until it was at about 80% of the travel used. Even though this bike is 2 model years old, it is still brand new. WTH? What could possibly be wrong with this to cause this?


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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by White Bear View Post
    So, I'm curious Bear, when you just lean on the seat to compress the shock with your weight (I can get about 1/2 shock travel this way), do you see the switch move, and if so, how much. I know this isn't scientific, but I really don't want to tear it down if I don't have to, as I'm knowledge and tool challenged.
    I'll have to try, can't remember.

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  22. #22
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    Just had the switch looked at today, the switch drive side bearing was damaged. New stainless bearing, its like a new bike! The switch clearly moves in both directions, dont get me wrong its not as big a movement as the 66, but clearly moves down then up. It rides just the way i thought it should (running bout 14mm sag), like was said early night & day. Worth the effort to set up correctly... thanks for the help

  23. #23
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    SB-95 '12 not as efficient as I read...

    Chizzey, now that it is fixed can you video the switch again as you cycle though the entire travel? I'd like to see what it is supposed to look like. Mine is almost imperceptible in its rotation and I'd like to compare it against what it should look like.

    Andy


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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cbopleasanthill View Post
    Chizzey, now that it is fixed can you video the switch again as you cycle though the entire travel? I'd like to see what it is supposed to look like. Mine is almost imperceptible in its rotation and I'd like to compare it against what it should look like.

    Andy


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    Sure Andy, soon as i get a chance...

  25. #25
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    Here's a video I made this week from my bike. It's not completely horrid.



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