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  1. #1
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    SB-66: Worn-out stop bolt

    I noticed my SB-66 starting to knock again (got new eccentric and front triangle under warranty), so I checked out the inners and found the rubber tip on the stop bolt came off. Further inspection showed that it's gotten pretty chewed up, to the point where it just falls off the bolt and rolls around inside the eccentric. Anyways, my bike is good for now as I've just glued the rubber tip to the bolt itself.

    I've e-mailed Yeti asking for 2+ replacement rubber tips. Looks like this is a part that will need to be replaced regularly. Anyone else having this problem? The image below is the rubber tip, after only 3 months of riding. Looks like Yeti may have some fine-tuning to do with the rubber compound of the part:

    SB-66: Worn-out stop bolt-66440_148053665394637_1843379747_n.jpg
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thimk View Post
    I noticed my SB-66 starting to knock again (got new eccentric and front triangle under warranty), so I checked out the inners and found the rubber tip on the stop bolt came off. Further inspection showed that it's gotten pretty chewed up, to the point where it just falls off the bolt and rolls around inside the eccentric. Anyways, my bike is good for now as I've just glued the rubber tip to the bolt itself.

    I've e-mailed Yeti asking for 2+ replacement rubber tips. Looks like this is a part that will need to be replaced regularly. Anyone else having this problem? The image below is the rubber tip, after only 3 months of riding. Looks like Yeti may have some fine-tuning to do with the rubber compound of the part:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    This lower link assembly is going to have to be maintained very often , I took mine apart and found it dry,.....I lubed it up really good with "Slick Honey" and will keep an eye on it , but the rubber tipped stop bolt needs to be greased really good also .

    And if you wash your bike with water or run the bike through muddy conditions you are going to contaminate the bushing and the stop bolt really quickly also.

    If you keep the link clean and really packed with "Slick Honey" there will not be a problem , how often we will all be servicing the link will depend on environment and how the bike is cared for, I am going to take mine apart at 2 months and check and see how its doing .

    For me out here in the dry I will probably be able to do a service on it every 6 months and keep it like new.

    But in some of the wetter conditions and if you water wash you bike the intervals will have to be stepped up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    This lower link assembly is going to have to be maintained very often , I took mine apart and found it dry,.....I lubed it up really good with "Slick Honey" and will keep an eye on it , but the rubber tipped stop bolt needs to be greased really good also .

    And if you wash your bike with water or run the bike through muddy conditions you are going to contaminate the bushing and the stop bolt really quickly also.

    If you keep the link clean and really packed with "Slick Honey" there will not be a problem , how often we will all be servicing the link will depend on environment and how the bike is cared for, I am going to take mine apart at 2 months and check and see how its doing .

    For me out here in the dry I will probably be able to do a service on it every 6 months and keep it like new.

    But in some of the wetter conditions and if you water wash you bike the intervals will have to be stepped up.
    Yeah, I figured that when I took out the stop bolt. Good thing I have some Slick Honey and Phil Wood at my disposal. Either should greatly reduce friction when the stop bolt hits the eccentric.

    I do wash my bike on a weekly basis as a matter of fact. However, when I opened up my eccentric, it was still clean and well lubed after 3 months of proper riding. I was quite pleased and surprised.
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    This is what Yeti said to me. In short, excellent service:

    "All that [shock setup] sounds normal to me. The only thing I can think is if you are riding it really hard and coming off the ground frequently (which we highly recommend). The bumper will contact the eccentric when you are going through a lot of travel quickly. As in full extension in the air, compressing hard on a landing. If you are riding like this with any frequency it is not abnormal to need to replace that bumper head more often. Again, feel free to ask any questions as they come up."
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thimk View Post
    This is what Yeti said to me. In short, excellent service:

    "All that [shock setup] sounds normal to me. The only thing I can think is if you are riding it really hard and coming off the ground frequently (which we highly recommend). The bumper will contact the eccentric when you are going through a lot of travel quickly. As in full extension in the air, compressing hard on a landing. If you are riding like this with any frequency it is not abnormal to need to replace that bumper head more often. Again, feel free to ask any questions as they come up."
    This information from Yeti is interesting and enlightening , I will order me acoupple of those bumper heads to have on hand when needed.

    Yeti really seems like a good company with great customer concern !

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    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    This information from Yeti is interesting and enlightening , I will order me acoupple of those bumper heads to have on hand when needed.

    Yeti really seems like a good company with great customer concern !
    Where are you ordering them from? I wouldn't mind just buying them if available online, rather than nagging my LBS again.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thimk View Post
    Where are you ordering them from? I wouldn't mind just buying them if available online, rather than nagging my LBS again.
    I only have one shop that deals with Yeti over around me and I don't get very good service from them , and they are a long way away ( actually I do not get very good service from any shops over by me )

    I have not yet located the rear derailed hanger # either for the carbon frame , so I was just going to call Yeti and see if they would send me acoupple hangers and acoupple bumper heads .

    They probably won't so I will have to call the shop and go through that nut roll and huge time suck

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    I've had a couple direct dealings with Yeti support people and they've been top notch, calling and talking to them is a reasonable path for little parts support I think.

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    I had this problem! A perfect got for the bump stop is a car tyre valve cover!! A Nearly perfect match in dimensions.

    I used one on mine and zero issues usesd some sticky glue just as I was paranoid. So perfect it was scary!


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    Quote Originally Posted by bear View Post
    I've had a couple direct dealings with Yeti support people and they've been top notch, calling and talking to them is a reasonable path for little parts support I think.
    This would really make me happy , from everything I have herd about Yeti I was counting on this being the case , I will report back on what happens .

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    Quote Originally Posted by moneycash View Post
    I had this problem! A perfect got for the bump stop is a car tyre valve cover!! A Nearly perfect match in dimensions.

    I used one on mine and zero issues usesd some sticky glue just as I was paranoid. So perfect it was scary!

    This is actually an amazing post...

    Even with the hard plastic, there is no knocking with the suspension?
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    I was told I would have to buy the whole eccentric assembly!!
    :-0 was pissed! Bike was 3 months old.

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    Yetifan in the UK sell the bump stoppers (YETI SB Switch end stop) on their own for £2.49 each.

    YETI SB Models | Yetifan

    Part 21 YETI SB Switch end stop

    Don't think postage would be much either on such a small item?

    Possible that somewhere in the US sells them but Yetifan often supply individual small parts that nowhere else does, really good service from them and if your ever struggling to get a specific part and you can't get it here you probably can't get it anywhere except Yeti directly.

    Mine is 18 months old and as I live in the lake district in the UK it gets washed after every ride and my bump stopper is ok. I do use the full travel but do like a firmer ride so have my shock firm so that's probably why I slam up against the stopper less or simply I'm just not riding as hard.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RocketMagnet View Post
    Yetifan in the UK sell the bump stoppers (YETI SB Switch end stop) on their own for £2.49 each.

    YETI SB Models | Yetifan

    Boooo... I tried to check-out, and they don't ship to Canada.

    I'll continue to nag my LBS.
    Part 21 YETI SB Switch end stop

    Don't think postage would be much either on such a small item?

    Possible that somewhere in the US sells them but Yetifan often supply individual small parts that nowhere else does, really good service from them and if your ever struggling to get a specific part and you can't get it here you probably can't get it anywhere except Yeti directly.

    Mine is 18 months old and as I live in the lake district in the UK it gets washed after every ride and my bump stopper is ok. I do use the full travel but do like a firmer ride so have my shock firm so that's probably why I slam up against the stopper less or simply I'm just not riding as hard.
    Booo... I just tried to checkout and they don't ship to Canada.

    I'll continue to nag my LBS.
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    Try dropping Andrew at yetifan an Email or post on the boards as a guest, he always tries to help where possible.

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    Well it was just as I thought, Yeti of North America will not sell me the stop bumper .
    (I found the part number for just the bumper on their site )
    In fact the first guy "Dave" that I talked to really did not care at all and just wanted me off the phone and said I have to call a Dealer.
    Then I called right back ( because "Dave" did not even listen that I wanted 2 derailure hangers and said I should buy them off the store site ,,,,,,,the store does not show the SB95C hangers , all the store has is the SB95A hangers , but "Dave" did not care.

    Then I talked to another employee and was told that they did not have any SB95C hangers at all and she did not know when they would be in .

    I thought this was kinda odd , ( How pissed is some customer going to be when he rips his hanger off on his new carbon bike and can't get one ).

    Then she told me I would have to order the hanger from a Dealer

    I can make a hanger and I can make the stop bolt bumper, so its not a huge deal for me but I wanted to let everybody else with a carbon SB know to be really careful because your not going to get a hanger anytime soon

    So For Me ,Dealing with Yeti has been less than desirable so far .

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    Quote Originally Posted by moneycash View Post
    I had this problem! A perfect got for the bump stop is a car tyre valve cover!! A Nearly perfect match in dimensions.

    I used one on mine and zero issues usesd some sticky glue just as I was paranoid. So perfect it was scary!

    That is a great Idea , I was going to machine some out of "Delron" if need be .

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    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    Well it was just as I thought, Yeti of North America will not sell me the stop bumper .
    (I found the part number for just the bumper on their site )
    In fact the first guy "Dave" that I talked to really did not care at all and just wanted me off the phone and said I have to call a Dealer.
    Then I called right back ( because "Dave" did not even listen that I wanted 2 derailure hangers and said I should buy them off the store site ,,,,,,,the store does not show the SB95C hangers , all the store has is the SB95A hangers , but "Dave" did not care.

    Then I talked to another employee and was told that they did not have any SB95C hangers at all and she did not know when they would be in .

    I thought this was kinda odd , ( How pissed is some customer going to be when he rips his hanger off on his new carbon bike and can't get one ).

    Then she told me I would have to order the hanger from a Dealer

    I can make a hanger and I can make the stop bolt bumper, so its not a huge deal for me but I wanted to let everybody else with a carbon SB know to be really careful because your not going to get a hanger anytime soon

    So For Me ,Dealing with Yeti has been less than desirable so far .
    How did you bust your hanger? I used to break mine frequently years ago, I just stopped resting my bike on the derailleur side. Riding smoother helps alot too! I haven't busted a hangar in about 5 years now.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thimk View Post
    How did you bust your hanger? I used to break mine frequently years ago, I just stopped resting my bike on the derailleur side. Riding smoother helps alot too! I haven't busted a hangar in about 5 years now.
    I generally brake off one derailleur hanger every 1 to 2 years without fail , Hear in Az we ride in rocky hack that is just everywhere , and sometimes a rider in front will kick up a huge rock and throw it right back at you and it will clean the derailleur right off and you really have no warning , and of course your 10 miles out , so I like to carry at least 1 hanger so I can get back to the truck.

    Thats why I was trying to get 2 hangers , they will just be spare hangers I have not broken the stock hanger yet , but I know I will

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    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    I generally brake off one derailleur hanger every 1 to 2 years without fail , Hear in Az we ride in rocky hack that is just everywhere , and sometimes a rider in front will kick up a huge rock and throw it right back at you and it will clean the derailleur right off and you really have no warning , and of course your 10 miles out , so I like to carry at least 1 hanger so I can get back to the truck.

    Thats why I was trying to get 2 hangers , they will just be spare hangers I have not broken the stock hanger yet , but I know I will
    That sucks. Where I'm from, we have more dirt than rocks.

    I called my LBS earlier today about the bumper, they said they'd call Yeti to hand some over... Will keep updating.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thimk View Post
    That sucks. Where I'm from, we have more dirt than rocks.

    I called my LBS earlier today about the bumper, they said they'd call Yeti to hand some over... Will keep updating.
    Here is look at the "National Trail " system here in Phoenix AZ , I am on a 26er here but the SB 95 actually works really good here also , you can see how one little slip could rip the hanger right off.

    <iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/23663594" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/23663594">before work part 2, 5-3-11</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user7045432">kelstr</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

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    I just called "Jenson Usa " and asked them if they would get me and carry the 95C hangers and the "Stop bolt Bumpers" , and they said they would .

    So eventually we will be able to order the bumpers and carbon 95 hangers right on Jenson.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    I just called "Jenson Usa " and asked them if they would get me and carry the 95C hangers and the "Stop bolt Bumpers" , and they said they would .

    So eventually we will be able to order the bumpers and carbon 95 hangers right on Jenson.
    Hmmm... The question is: When? Summer ain't gettin' any longer up here!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thimk View Post
    Hmmm... The question is: When? Summer ain't gettin' any longer up here!
    I would be willing to bet they can get the stop bolt bumpers Quickly , Yeti had those in stock , It might take alittle longer to get the 95C Hangers ,
    If you call the Jenson 888 880 3811 and ask for the bumper they will get it and call you when its in !!

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    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    Here is look at the "National Trail " system here in Phoenix AZ , I am on a 26er here but the SB 95 actually works really good here also , you can see how one little slip could rip the hanger right off.

    <iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/23663594" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/23663594">before work part 2, 5-3-11</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user7045432">kelstr</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
    Ahhh! Please don't post pictures of South Mountain. I spent six years @ ASU riding there 2-3x a week and soooooooooooooo miss it.

    I'm kidding and jealous.

    Oni

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    Quote Originally Posted by Oni View Post
    Ahhh! Please don't post pictures of South Mountain. I spent six years @ ASU riding there 2-3x a week and soooooooooooooo miss it.

    I'm kidding and jealous.

    Oni
    My God thats my alma matter also , I know what you mean , I have withdrawal if I don't ride there at least twice a week , but it will destroy a bike rather quickly , but it is worth it !

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    Think I've still got cholla in a finger tip! :-)

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    I tore apart my SB66c this afternoon. The rubber stop bumper was shredded inside of the eccentric. Some bearings were smooth, others notchy, and the drive-side bearings of the eccentric were shot. I've had the bike for about 11 months, approx 1500 miles over 135 rides. Ordered new bearings from Yeti, should be here in a couple of days. Unfortunately I don't have the tools for bearing removal and installation.... anyone have any tips on that? It'll go to the shop to deal with that issue otherwise.

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    Quote Originally Posted by m1neral View Post
    I tore apart my SB66c this afternoon. The rubber stop bumper was shredded inside of the eccentric. Some bearings were smooth, others notchy, and the drive-side bearings of the eccentric were shot. I've had the bike for about 11 months, approx 1500 miles over 135 rides. Ordered new bearings from Yeti, should be here in a couple of days. Unfortunately I don't have the tools for bearing removal and installation.... anyone have any tips on that? It'll go to the shop to deal with that issue otherwise.
    I say e-mail warranty@yeticycles.com. I can pretty much guarantee you a response by noon tomorrow
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    Quote Originally Posted by m1neral View Post
    I tore apart my SB66c this afternoon. The rubber stop bumper was shredded inside of the eccentric. Some bearings were smooth, others notchy, and the drive-side bearings of the eccentric were shot. I've had the bike for about 11 months, approx 1500 miles over 135 rides. Ordered new bearings from Yeti, should be here in a couple of days. Unfortunately I don't have the tools for bearing removal and installation.... anyone have any tips on that? It'll go to the shop to deal with that issue otherwise.
    Its not hard to do, ...you would be way ahead of the game doing it yourself vs what the shop would do to it trying to change bearings I generally just spin up what ever size removal and installation tools I need on my lathe to do any of these little jobs like this, ....but that being said , there is no reason you can't use sockets as blanks to push out and push in bearings .

    I have several different "Pilot Bearing/Bushing removal tools " to slide hammer out some of the back to back bearings , ...you can get a "Pilot Bearing/Bushing tool " at Harbor Freight tools for cheep and they work good as a puller for some of the small back to back bearings , and then you just set up sockets in your vise ( that you can get at harbor freight also) to press the back to back and or blind hole bearings back in .

    Its not that bad of a job I know you can do it !!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thimk View Post
    I say e-mail warranty@yeticycles.com. I can pretty much guarantee you a response by noon tomorrow
    Considering how much I've ridden, I didn't consider this a warranty issue... but I'll see what they have to say. Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by m1neral View Post
    Considering how much I've ridden, I didn't consider this a warranty issue... but I'll see what they have to say. Thanks.
    It never, ever, is a bad thing to ask a polite question.

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    Quote Originally Posted by m1neral View Post
    Considering how much I've ridden, I didn't consider this a warranty issue... but I'll see what they have to say. Thanks.
    I didn't mean for a warranty claim, just for basic advice on how to do it.
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    I'm really surprised Yeti didn't just pop a couple of bump stoppers in a Jiffy bag and send you them.

    Seriously for the sake of a few pennies you have a happy customer who's probably paid £2000 - £3000 for the frame alone. For such a consumable i'd expect a few in the box with the frame tbh.

    Also the manual doesn't tell you to periodically check the bump stopper, sounds like the 12 month full service check is too long and interval - metal on metal could damage the switch.

    I'm curious about what weight and rear shock pressure settings people are using that are seeing damaged bump stoppers.

    Apparently the replacement bump stoppers in stock at Yetifan are made from a Harder rubber
    SB66c switch o-rings | YETIFAN.com FORUM
    Ohh they stock the 66C mech hangers also...

    I've just stripped mine down to check and the bump stopper is marked on one side and you can see where it's been hitting the inside of the switch (I've got photos), however its in reasonable condition.
    So periodically turning the bump stopper and running a higher shock pressure?. That can't be said of all my bearings as they are all totally dead from the link bearings to the small switch ones.
    Can't get the drive side switch out neither, left it soaking in WD40

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    Quote Originally Posted by RocketMagnet View Post
    I'm really surprised Yeti didn't just pop a couple of bump stoppers in a Jiffy bag and send you them.

    Seriously for the sake of a few pennies you have a happy customer who's probably paid £2000 - £3000 for the frame alone. For such a consumable i'd expect a few in the box with the frame tbh.



    Also the manual doesn't tell you to periodically check the bump stopper, sounds like the 12 month full service check is too long and interval - metal on metal could damage the switch.

    I'm curious about what weight and rear shock pressure settings people are using that are seeing damaged bump stoppers.

    Apparently the replacement bump stoppers in stock at Yetifan are made from a Harder rubber
    SB66c switch o-rings | YETIFAN.com FORUM
    Ohh they stock the 66C mech hangers also...

    I've just stripped mine down to check and the bump stopper is marked on one side and you can see where it's been hitting the inside of the switch (I've got photos), however its in reasonable condition.
    So periodically turning the bump stopper and running a higher shock pressure?. That can't be said of all my bearings as they are all totally dead from the link bearings to the small switch ones.
    Can't get the drive side switch out neither, left it soaking in WD40
    One thing that helps with bearing life on any bike ,......I always pop out one of the seals and I pack the bearings with a good grease ( I use mobil 1 SYN Red grease ) I do this on new bearings before I ever install them .

    The other trick is source your bearings out from a bearing house, you will get a better class and quality bearing for 1/3 the price, the bearings you get from the bike manufactures are a cheep low class bearing .

    And I too can not believe that Yeti would not just drop acoupple bumpers to anyone that called ,.....and to not have 95C derailleur hangers that they could sell is just sad , you can't tell me they did not have hangers 3 feet away from the person I was talking to.

    And making the bump stops out of Delron would be way better than rubber , When my bumper gets alittle worn I will spin one up from Delron and see how it works .

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    Lucky me. My LBS has asked Yeti for some [rubber tips] and are giving me a few. Hope to get 'em in by this week.
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    Just got me a bag of three! According to Yeti's packing slip, they are referred to ass "Bolt Tip Condoms"
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  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    And making the bump stops out of Delron would be way better than rubber , When my bumper gets alittle worn I will spin one up from Delron and see how it works .
    It may wear longer, but will likely make noise when it makes contact with the Switch link. I'd prefer the silence personally.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thimk View Post
    Just got me a bag of three! According to Yeti's packing slip, they are referred to ass "Bolt Tip Condoms"
    Well I just got my bag of two from Jenson today.
    Jenson called them a "Bolt Bumper" , They cost $ 2.00 each , I won't see the derailleur hanger for the 95C for another several days they said.

    I have part numbers for Jenson if anybody wants them , Jenson will eventually get them on their sight but as for now you have to call them in and order them.

    I like "Bolt Tip Condom" better than "Bolt Bumper"

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    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    I will spin one up from Delron and see how it works .
    That's Delrin* (Acetyl) a DuPont product, and while your doing it, I'll take a couple!

    Damn, wish I had known about the bumpers...just got my hanger and ISCG tab from Jenson.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    Well I just got my bag of two from Jenson today.
    Jenson called them a "Bolt Bumper" , They cost $ 2.00 each , I won't see the derailleur hanger for the 95C for another several days they said.

    I have part numbers for Jenson if anybody wants them , Jenson will eventually get them on their sight but as for now you have to call them in and order them.

    I like "Bolt Tip Condom" better than "Bolt Bumper"
    I pulled mine apart last night and nothing was left of the bumper stop. Please post up the Jenson part numbers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiketodd View Post
    I pulled mine apart last night and nothing was left of the bumper stop. Please post up the Jenson part numbers.
    When you re-install new bumper, make sure to shove some grease in that eccentric's well to get better life.
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiketodd View Post
    I pulled mine apart last night and nothing was left of the bumper stop. Please post up the Jenson part numbers.
    The Jenson # for the "Condom bolt bumper" is FR232Z00 , Give em a call !!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    That's Delrin* (Acetyl) a DuPont product, and while your doing it, I'll take a couple!

    Damn, wish I had known about the bumpers...just got my hanger and ISCG tab from Jenson.
    I never could spell worth a dam , your are correct it is Delrin .... When my arm heals and I get back to work I will make acoupple of these and see how they work .

    Here is the Jenson part # for the bumpers so you can get her going , FR232Z00

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogboy View Post
    It may wear longer, but will likely make noise when it makes contact with the Switch link. I'd prefer the silence personally.
    You are probably correct , but I wanted to try just out of curiosity.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    I never could spell worth a dam , your are correct it is Delrin .... When my arm heals and I get back to work I will make acoupple of these and see how they work .

    Here is the Jenson part # for the bumpers so you can get her going , FR232Z00

    Any update on the bumper issue?

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    Quote Originally Posted by White Bear View Post
    Any update on the bumper issue?
    I just had mine apart again while cleaning and lubing the bike ( got caught in a really hard rain and had to ride back 20 miles and filled the bike full of water and crap )

    But my original condom was still kinda hanging, ...but funny thing I think I saw , there is this Yeti video on "How we do things " or something like that and it shows a guy ripen it up in a Forrest on a 66 and then it would show how the switch was assembled and on the bench it looked to me like the stop bolt had a white Delrin condom on it , instead of the rubber one.

    I will make acoupple of these when I get a chance and just see if they are noisy or whatever .
    I curious now .

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    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    I just had mine apart again while cleaning and lubing the bike ( got caught in a really hard rain and had to ride back 20 miles and filled the bike full of water and crap )
    Hate to ask, but what is the steps involved in accessing the stop bolt? Can you just de-air the shock and will there be enough clearance, or do you have to go further?
    BTW, if you could get some urethane stock to make the condom, it would probably last a lot longer and still be quiet. I may have some in 1/8" sheet, if that would do. I just don't have a feel re the size.

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    Quote Originally Posted by White Bear View Post
    Hate to ask, but what is the steps involved in accessing the stop bolt? Can you just de-air the shock and will there be enough clearance, or do you have to go further?
    BTW, if you could get some urethane stock to make the condom, it would probably last a lot longer and still be quiet. I may have some in 1/8" sheet, if that would do. I just don't have a feel re the size.
    I just remove the rear wheel, shock and then remove the two linkage through bolts and gently lifted the triangle up and out the way with tie-downs hooked to the seat rails and then you can get to the stop bolt and remove and clean the switch link out and inspect everything.

    Thats a good call on the urethane ,I have some of that also , and that may very well work better than Delrin.

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    My 2011 SB-66 had a hard plastic stop bolt tip. When I got it warrantied, the 2012 I received had a rubber tip.
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    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    One thing that helps with bearing life on any bike ,......I always pop out one of the seals and I pack the bearings with a good grease ( I use mobil 1 SYN Red grease ) I do this on new bearings before I ever install them .

    The other trick is source your bearings out from a bearing house, you will get a better class and quality bearing for 1/3 the price, the bearings you get from the bike manufactures are a cheep low class bearing .

    And I too can not believe that Yeti would not just drop acoupple bumpers to anyone that called ,.....and to not have 95C derailleur hangers that they could sell is just sad , you can't tell me they did not have hangers 3 feet away from the person I was talking to.

    And making the bump stops out of Delron would be way better than rubber , When my bumper gets alittle worn I will spin one up from Delron and see how it works .
    When you are sourcing bearings from other than Yeti, how do you know what your getting is going to fit or be of the necessary quality? Are the bearings standard sizes and you just have to know where to look? Is it cheaper than buying them through Yeti?

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    Quote Originally Posted by smellurfingers View Post
    When you are sourcing bearings from other than Yeti, how do you know what your getting is going to fit or be of the necessary quality? Are the bearings standard sizes and you just have to know where to look? Is it cheaper than buying them through Yeti?
    One thing to know about bearings , .......they build things around bearings,......they very seldom build bearings around things.

    So that being said this means you can take the number off your bearings ( its on the rubber seal and or staked into the bearing race ) and contact any bearing house and they can easily match it up and tell you what CLASS bearing it is and give you options of what CLASS or GRADE of bearing you want .

    The Bicycle world uses some of the cheapest bearings I have ever seen , most bearings houses do not even carry the low CLASS of bearing that are in these bike.

    As far as price , a bearing kit to do a Specialized Enduro cost about $140 to $170 depending on year from Specialized , ......for $80 I can get a better bearing and do the bike twice over with several bearings left over .

    And generally the bearing house has all the bearings in stock , so you do not have to wait for shipping or back orders from anybody .

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thimk View Post
    My 2011 SB-66 had a hard plastic stop bolt tip. When I got it warrantied, the 2012 I received had a rubber tip.
    Ill be dammed , I thought I saw that in that Yeti video clip .
    So at first Yeti did use a Urethane or hard Delrin condom on the stop bolt .

    And I remember seeing your video , when you got alittle wear in that stop bolt tip that thing would pop like a hammer hitting a wood block , was the tip rock hard or was it alittle soft ?

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    The hard plastic tip would give a slight knock when you cycled your suspension with the shock off or aired down. I suspect Yeti was tired of the warranty claims and switched to something quieter.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    One thing to know about bearings , .......they build things around bearings,......they very seldom build bearings around things.

    So that being said this means you can take the number off your bearings ( its on the rubber seal and or staked into the bearing race ) and contact any bearing house and they can easily match it up and tell you what CLASS bearing it is and give you options of what CLASS or GRADE of bearing you want .

    The Bicycle world uses some of the cheapest bearings I have ever seen , most bearings houses do not even carry the low CLASS of bearing that are in these bike.

    As far as price , a bearing kit to do a Specialized Enduro cost about $140 to $170 depending on year from Specialized , ......for $80 I can get a better bearing and do the bike twice over with several bearings left over .

    And generally the bearing house has all the bearings in stock , so you do not have to wait for shipping or back orders from anybody .
    And some of the best bearings are made right here in Switzerland! OH YEAH!!! WE'RE # 1, WE'RE # wait, what? Do I really want an SB if I have to completely change out its magic love center every few months? Anyways if you have a bike this expensive then get some WIB bearings (they make bearings for Bones skate) or RKB which makes bearings for NASA, F1 etc, etc.
    Is the SB really a maintenance nightmare?

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swissam View Post
    And some of the best bearings are made right here in Switzerland! OH YEAH!!! WE'RE # 1, WE'RE # wait, what? Do I really want an SB if I have to completely change out its magic love center every few months? Anyways if you have a bike this expensive then get some WIB bearings (they make bearings for Bones skate) or RKB which makes bearings for NASA, F1 etc, etc.
    Is the SB really a maintenance nightmare?
    Actually the SB is a really easy bike to change bearings on, the other thing about bearings is cheep bearings or high end bearings ......all die quickly when they get wet, and most guys water wash their bikes and do not tear it apart to re-grease any of the components so they kill bearing in 8 to 10 months.

    Thats why all bike manufactures build bikes with low end bearings , ( plus the bearings do not spin or and gain any heat at all ) so there is really no reason to use high end bearings ( + the replacement kits for manufactures to build using high end berings would cost you an I $350 or more )......(and they know we all get them wet quickly )....so there are many reasons why they don't use high end bearings )

    Actually some of the guys that live and ride in wet muddy areas would be better off with an oil light bronze bearing / bushing set up with seals and grease zerks.

    Like what Turner and or Banshee has used.

    If my bike gets wet I strip it and re-grease it , and I do not buy bearings ....ever.

    But I get customers at the 6 and or 8 month mark that have killed all their bearings from water contamination ..and Im in AZ .......there is no reason for that where I live .

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    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    Actually the SB is a really easy bike to change bearings on, the other thing about bearings is cheep bearings or high end bearings ......all die quickly when they get wet, and most guys water wash their bikes and do not tear it apart to re-grease any of the components so they kill bearing in 8 to 10 months.

    Thats why all bike manufactures build bikes with low end bearings , ( plus the bearings do not spin or and gain any heat at all ) so there is really no reason to use high end bearings ( + the replacement kits for manufactures to build using high end berings would cost you an I $350 or more )......(and they know we all get them wet quickly )....so there are many reasons why they don't use high end bearings )

    Actually some of the guys that live and ride in wet muddy areas would be better off with an oil light bronze bearing / bushing set up with seals and grease zerks.

    Like what Turner and or Banshee has used.

    If my bike gets wet I strip it and re-grease it , and I do not buy bearings ....ever.

    But I get customers at the 6 and or 8 month mark that have killed all their bearings from water contamination ..and Im in AZ .......there is no reason for that where I live .
    Normally higher end bearings are simply manufactured to higher tolerances and sometimes use better grade materials. Yet all these improved tolerances (ball size / race diameter etc) are rendered pointless if dirt/water gets in there so it really comes down to the seal. Your correct, normally the higher end bearings are required for high speed applications which you don't pack with grease as an exact amount is needed, too much will kill bearings in these applications. So these low speed bearings can be pack out with high load greases.

    For many, myself included we live in wet climes and essentially most times we ride our bikes they get muddy/wet. Constantly servicing these sealed bearings could result in maintenance induced failures (especially seal damage/tolerance) and could potentially result in lower lifetimes. If I was to strip my bike every time it got wet it would be totally impractical and tbh the time spent doing this would come nowhere near the relative value of a new bearing set (in other words id rather buy new bearings yearly than spend days of labour time stripping my bike as it gets wet most rides).
    My only advice is don't use drifts & get the right tools... but a good set is expensive for most people and you have to weigh up the cost of getting your LBS vs the tool set.

    If you have the tools and experience (but mainly the tools) then replacing bearings isn't too difficult. However many people don't have either or both. The 66 bearing replacement is difficult because it's multiple sizes of bearing meaning more tools (not that many people have access to a lathe).

    Personally the real issue for me is that my 66 bearings have extremely short lifetimes compared to bearings in other bikes I own. For example the bearings in my 575 lasted > 5 years in the same riding conditions and enforced washing regime, even when I replaced them it was questionable if it needed it. So if the bearings on my 575 and other bikes manage to keep dirt and water out for years why don't the bearings on my 66 do the same?

    Over torque the mounting pins could cause early failure but I definitely set mine to 10.0 - 10.5 Nm.

    Myself I was tempted by the new Warranty on the Santa Cruz bikes..

    Warranty | Santa Cruz Bicycles

    ..but I'm a Yeti guy so £120 a year for new bearings is the price I have to pay and worth it IMO, unless there are better sealing bearings we can buy.. which is a natural question to ask .

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by RocketMagnet View Post
    Normally higher end bearings are simply manufactured to higher tolerances and sometimes use better grade materials. Yet all these improved tolerances (ball size / race diameter etc) are rendered pointless if dirt/water gets in there so it really comes down to the seal. Your correct, normally the higher end bearings are required for high speed applications which you don't pack with grease as an exact amount is needed, too much will kill bearings in these applications. So these low speed bearings can be pack out with high load greases.

    For many, myself included we live in wet climes and essentially most times we ride our bikes they get muddy/wet. Constantly servicing these sealed bearings could result in maintenance induced failures (especially seal damage/tolerance) and could potentially result in lower lifetimes. If I was to strip my bike every time it got wet it would be totally impractical and tbh the time spent doing this would come nowhere near the relative value of a new bearing set (in other words id rather buy new bearings yearly than spend days of labour time stripping my bike as it gets wet most rides).
    My only advice is don't use drifts & get the right tools... but a good set is expensive for most people and you have to weigh up the cost of getting your LBS vs the tool set.

    If you have the tools and experience (but mainly the tools) then replacing bearings isn't too difficult. However many people don't have either or both. The 66 bearing replacement is difficult because it's multiple sizes of bearing meaning more tools (not that many people have access to a lathe).

    Personally the real issue for me is that my 66 bearings have extremely short lifetimes compared to bearings in other bikes I own. For example the bearings in my 575 lasted > 5 years in the same riding conditions and enforced washing regime, even when I replaced them it was questionable if it needed it. So if the bearings on my 575 and other bikes manage to keep dirt and water out for years why don't the bearings on my 66 do the same?

    Over torque the mounting pins could cause early failure but I definitely set mine to 10.0 - 10.5 Nm.

    Myself I was tempted by the new Warranty on the Santa Cruz bikes..

    Warranty | Santa Cruz Bicycles

    ..but I'm a Yeti guy so £120 a year for new bearings is the price I have to pay and worth it IMO, unless there are better sealing bearings we can buy.. which is a natural question to ask .
    I will say the SC warranty is one of the best systems I have ever seen , I have many customers that bring their SC bikes to me and I can call SC warranty and get just about anything replaced and sent right to me with no hassle .

    Specialized has been really easy to get people handled also on warranty issues.

    I have already had trouble with Yeti , they really don't seem to care after the sale , I have not been able to get them to see the bigger picture .
    Kinda leaves a bad taste in your mouth, but I really like the bike .

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    So I've had my SB66 for ~4 months now. A month ago, I noticed the knock and pulled it apart found the stop bumper shredded and its gouged a little bit of the eccentric slot. I sanded the burs off the slot and purchased a couple of the bumper stops from Yeti through my LBS. Now 3 weeks later, I am changing out bumper stops once a week. They contacted Yeti yesterday and am waiting to hear back from them, but Yeti has kind of had a "whatever" or "yea thats just a wear part if you ride hard" attitude toward it. Which, I get that I should be replacing the bumper stops maybe every month or so, but not every week. I absolutely love this bike, but its becoming a pain to change these out. What could be causing the expeditited wear? I was hanging out at the shop when they called Yeti the other day and they had it on speaker phone, and the guy that answered the phone sounded like he was high as hell, and that it was a pain in the ass for him to look up part numbers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tangaroo View Post
    So I've had my SB66 for ~4 months now. A month ago, I noticed the knock and pulled it apart found the stop bumper shredded and its gouged a little bit of the eccentric slot. I sanded the burs off the slot and purchased a couple of the bumper stops from Yeti through my LBS. Now 3 weeks later, I am changing out bumper stops once a week. They contacted Yeti yesterday and am waiting to hear back from them, but Yeti has kind of had a "whatever" or "yea thats just a wear part if you ride hard" attitude toward it. Which, I get that I should be replacing the bumper stops maybe every month or so, but not every week. I absolutely love this bike, but its becoming a pain to change these out. What could be causing the expeditited wear? I was hanging out at the shop when they called Yeti the other day and they had it on speaker phone, and the guy that answered the phone sounded like he was high as hell, and that it was a pain in the ass for him to look up part numbers.
    That's a shame. All my dealings with Yeti (Matt), have been excellent. Professional and punctual.

    Yes, I too find the Yeti a bit of a diva when it comes to maintenance. FWIW, the last time I swapped the condom, I just coated the inside of the eccentric Phil Wood. The idea being, to reduce friction when contact is made.

    Part of the reason why I got a full-on DH bike this year, was to reduce the wear and tear on my SB66.
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    Quote Originally Posted by tangaroo View Post
    So I've had my SB66 for ~4 months now. A month ago, I noticed the knock and pulled it apart found the stop bumper shredded and its gouged a little bit of the eccentric slot.
    Quote Originally Posted by Thimk View Post
    That's a shame. All my dealings with Yeti (Matt), have been excellent. Professional and punctual.

    Yes, I too find the Yeti a bit of a diva when it comes to maintenance. FWIW, the last time I swapped the condom, I just coated the inside of the eccentric Phil Wood. The idea being, to reduce friction when contact is made.

    Part of the reason why I got a full-on DH bike this year, was to reduce the wear and tear on my SB66.
    Based on the this thread and the fact that I was hearing a bit of "clunking" from time-to-time, I took out the stop bolt on my SB-95c. The "condom" looked like new with zero wear, and was in fact clean. I have about 400 miles on it and used it extensively in CO this summer with most rides ending in a mud fest. I had to wash it after almost every ride and was worried that the eccentric had taken on water/mud, but it hadn't.
    I'm wondering if the design is different on the 95c from the 66c?
    Last edited by White Bear; 10-15-2013 at 11:26 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thimk View Post
    That's a shame. All my dealings with Yeti (Matt), have been excellent. Professional and punctual.

    Yes, I too find the Yeti a bit of a diva when it comes to maintenance. FWIW, the last time I swapped the condom, I just coated the inside of the eccentric Phil Wood. The idea being, to reduce friction when contact is made.

    Part of the reason why I got a full-on DH bike this year, was to reduce the wear and tear on my SB66.
    I packed it full of slick honey... hasn't reduced anything but by maybe a few hrs...

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    Quote Originally Posted by tangaroo View Post
    I packed it full of slick honey... hasn't reduced anything but by maybe a few hrs...
    My 2011 SB-66 was knocking, alot. I was able to get it replaced with a 2012 front triangle + eccentric. Fixed the issue.
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    Maybe they will do that. Whats weird is that for 3 months it was fine...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thimk View Post
    That's a shame. All my dealings with Yeti (Matt), have been excellent. Professional and punctual.

    Yes, I too find the Yeti a bit of a diva when it comes to maintenance. FWIW, the last time I swapped the condom, I just coated the inside of the eccentric Phil Wood. The idea being, to reduce friction when contact is made.

    Part of the reason why I got a full-on DH bike this year, was to reduce the wear and tear on my SB66.
    This is my only bike. I'm fine on maintenance. I pull the bike apart atleast once a month, as I ride ~5 days a week or more. I recently had a bearing seize up on me and Yeti was cool enough to send a replacement free of charge. I just hope they settle it quickly. I ride hard, but the bike is capable of handling much more than I do to it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tangaroo View Post
    So I've had my SB66 for ~4 months now. A month ago, I noticed the knock and pulled it apart found the stop bumper shredded and its gouged a little bit of the eccentric slot. I sanded the burs off the slot and purchased a couple of the bumper stops from Yeti through my LBS. Now 3 weeks later, I am changing out bumper stops once a week. They contacted Yeti yesterday and am waiting to hear back from them, but Yeti has kind of had a "whatever" or "yea thats just a wear part if you ride hard" attitude toward it. Which, I get that I should be replacing the bumper stops maybe every month or so, but not every week. I absolutely love this bike, but its becoming a pain to change these out. What could be causing the expeditited wear? I was hanging out at the shop when they called Yeti the other day and they had it on speaker phone, and the guy that answered the phone sounded like he was high as hell, and that it was a pain in the ass for him to look up part numbers.

    So the SB66 IS like sex, you have to change the condom after every ride.

    Is this problem happening on carbon frames as well or is it just the alum frames?
    I would think Yeti would be more supportive considering you have to change an internal part more often than changing brake pads. "Just a wear part if you ride hard" NO, it shouldn't. I am now leaning more towards a Covert, which is a shame considering I really wanted to be a Yeti owner again after 15 years since my last Yeti.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Swissam View Post
    So the SB66 IS like sex, you have to change the condom after every ride.

    Is this problem happening on carbon frames as well or is it just the alum frames?
    I would think Yeti would be more supportive considering you have to change an internal part more often than changing brake pads. "Just a wear part if you ride hard" NO, it shouldn't. I am now leaning more towards a Covert, which is a shame considering I really wanted to be a Yeti owner again after 15 years since my last Yeti.
    Well see. I'm not dissing them, I just hope I'm taken care of. I dropped $2k on a frame, I'd like it to be as reliable as it can be. Obviously this isn't something extremely common, so I would hope it is a manufacturing defect.

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    Quote Originally Posted by White Bear View Post
    I'm wondering if the design is different on the 95c from the 66c?
    Yes it is , being that the 95 is a big wheel bike and shorter travel it is different .

    And there is less wear on the 95 condom.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tangaroo View Post
    So I've had my SB66 for ~4 months now. A month ago, I noticed the knock and pulled it apart found the stop bumper shredded and its gouged a little bit of the eccentric slot. I sanded the burs off the slot and purchased a couple of the bumper stops from Yeti through my LBS. Now 3 weeks later, I am changing out bumper stops once a week. They contacted Yeti yesterday and am waiting to hear back from them, but Yeti has kind of had a "whatever" or "yea thats just a wear part if you ride hard" attitude toward it. Which, I get that I should be replacing the bumper stops maybe every month or so, but not every week. I absolutely love this bike, but its becoming a pain to change these out. What could be causing the expeditited wear? I was hanging out at the shop when they called Yeti the other day and they had it on speaker phone, and the guy that answered the phone sounded like he was high as hell, and that it was a pain in the ass for him to look up part numbers.
    I have been rubbed wrong twice from Yeti now and made to feel like I was taking up their time and they wanted me to just go away.

    So I know how you feel .

    The other thing I noticed is the original condom in my 95 was quite a bit stiffer and a harder durometer than the two condoms I had Jenson get me from Yeti , so I will bet your first condom was stronger than the ones your are now getting from Yeti.

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    I have been rubbed twice from Yeti now

    the original condom in my 95 was quite a bit stiffer and harder.


    Sorry, couldn't resist.

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    I have been rubbed wrong twice from Yeti now and made to feel like I was taking up their time and they wanted me to just go away.

    So I know how you feel .

    The other thing I noticed is the original condom in my 95 was quite a bit stiffer and a harder durometer than the two condoms I had Jenson get me from Yeti , so I will bet your first condom was stronger than the ones your are now getting from Yeti.
    hmmm Makes sense. The original one does feel a bit harder.

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swissam View Post


    Sorry, couldn't resist.
    I did not realize I left myself completely up in the air on that post.

    That was a good one

    I wish I was in Switzerland and could ride my bike on some cool trails

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    Yes it is , being that the 95 is a big wheel bike and shorter travel it is different .
    And there is less wear on the 95 condom.
    So, you're saying the Switch is less active on the 95 right? I guess it makes sense, if they use the same switch pivot mechanism. It would be interesting to see a video of each (side-by-side) under a full compression drop.

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by White Bear View Post
    So, you're saying the Switch is less active on the 95 right? I guess it makes sense
    I wonder how much angular change there is on each, from full-extension to full-compression? That should be pretty direct to measure.

    I haven't gotten time on a 66 but I've looked really closely on my 95 and the Switch motion is pretty subtle for the initial counter-stroke.

    I wonder if it can be almost completely removed with too much sag?

    It's possible I think. That wouldn't make the bike a single pivot, but it certainly can change the feel.

    I know that the bike feels different at 26% sag where I normally run it now vs 33% sag where I have spent a fair amount of time. I am planning on bouncing back down to 30-33% again once I feel like I've been at the current setting enough to know that I'll be able to tell if there is a difference in climbing or flat riding.

  75. #75
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    Ace Hardware carries a rubber "cork" that is perfect after a little trimming / reaming.


  76. #76
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    The problem lies somewhere else. There is something causing the bumpers to wear too quickly. I do not need new bumpers.

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by tangaroo View Post
    The problem lies somewhere else. There is something causing the bumpers to wear too quickly. I do not need new bumpers.
    1. You've doused the gap in the eccentric with tons of heavy grease? Heavy grease, like Phil Wood.
    2. The 2011 models had a plastic tip, vs. the rubber on the 2012+ ones. Try your luck with finding something similar. However, this solution will be prone to knocking at the inflection point.
    3. You've spoken with Yeti? Perhaps the system was "over-rotating" like mine. Try to get it warrantied.

    I've had my SB-66 warrantied twice. I like to think I'm an expert on this bike. Honestly, other than those three options, you're simply SOL unfortunately.

    TBH, the SB-66 is a real diva of a bike... But it's one heck of a ride when it's maintained.
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  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thimk View Post
    1. You've doused the gap in the eccentric with tons of heavy grease? Heavy grease, like Phil Wood.
    2. The 2011 models had a plastic tip, vs. the rubber on the 2012+ ones. Try your luck with finding something similar. However, this solution will be prone to knocking at the inflection point.
    3. You've spoken with Yeti? Perhaps the system was "over-rotating" like mine. Try to get it warrantied.

    I've had my SB-66 warrantied twice. I like to think I'm an expert on this bike. Honestly, other than those three options, you're simply SOL unfortunately.

    TBH, the SB-66 is a real diva of a bike... But it's one heck of a ride when it's maintained.

    Waiting to hear back from my LBS. Yeti asked them for the serial numbers on both triangles the other day, and I think the shop owner was out yesterday. Fingers crossed. I've ridden 3 times since I installed the most recent bumper (maybe 15 miles total) around a local trail thats rooty, but I never use full travel on this trail. Compressed the suspension when I got home the other night and the knock is back, so the bumper has already worn after 15 miles... Seems to be getting worse actually... that or the replacement bumpers are significantly softer.

    I agree on the maintenance, but then again I don't really mind it as I love wrenching, and the bike just performs mind blowingly well when maintained.

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by tangaroo View Post
    Waiting to hear back from my LBS. Yeti asked them for the serial numbers on both triangles the other day, and I think the shop owner was out yesterday. Fingers crossed. I've ridden 3 times since I installed the most recent bumper (maybe 15 miles total) around a local trail thats rooty, but I never use full travel on this trail. Compressed the suspension when I got home the other night and the knock is back, so the bumper has already worn after 15 miles... Seems to be getting worse actually... that or the replacement bumpers are significantly softer.

    I agree on the maintenance, but then again I don't really mind it as I love wrenching, and the bike just performs mind blowingly well when maintained.
    I love maintenance too, but I HATE problem solving/troubleshooting/fixing on my bike.
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  80. #80
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    Just checked mine for the first time and it's looking ragged and needing replaced. Not sure how many miles, but I'm near the end of the life of my 2nd chain. I think they should go back to delrin, or whatever the harder material was. It is a 'bump stop', just the nature of the function of the part it's obvious it will wear so I just assume they make it out of a longer wearing material. I could care less if it makes a bit of noise when pushing the limits of travel.

  81. #81
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    Sent in my frame last week to Yeti, got a call Friday from my LBS that they said they are going to replace the entire frame (Woo!). Only downside was that they are out of 2013 Lime Mediums, so went with black. At first I was bummed, but with the parts I have the black will look even better. I was hoping they'd just be like, well heres a new 2014 66 with the carbon rear end, but I can't complain when they are sending me a new frame with no questions asked.

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by tangaroo View Post
    Sent in my frame last week to Yeti, got a call Friday from my LBS that they said they are going to replace the entire frame (Woo!). Only downside was that they are out of 2013 Lime Mediums, so went with black. At first I was bummed, but with the parts I have the black will look even better. I was hoping they'd just be like, well heres a new 2014 66 with the carbon rear end, but I can't complain when they are sending me a new frame with no questions asked.
    I got my 2012 front + rear swapped for 2013's (two separate warranty claims). Dealing with Yeti (particularly Matt) has been such a solid experience, I want to send them a Christmas basket.

    I can deal with manufacturing/design issues, as long as the company backs their product well (as Yeti is doing right now). I'll stick with Yeti for many bikes down the road just based on this.
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  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thimk View Post
    I got my 2012 front + rear swapped for 2013's (two separate warranty claims). Dealing with Yeti (particularly Matt) has been such a solid experience, I want to send them a Christmas basket.

    I can deal with manufacturing/design issues, as long as the company backs their product well (as Yeti is doing right now). I'll stick with Yeti for many bikes down the road just based on this.
    Yup! Matt is awesome. Hoping to see it by Monday next week! They were ridiculously quick too. I dropped it off at the LBS on Monday last week, so it didn't even ship until Tues and I was informed they would be replacing the frame by Friday. Good people.

  84. #84
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    I'm getting rapid wear on my SB66c stop bolt rubber, it almost looks like the bolt is running too deep in the thread.
    You can see in my photo the damage is very near the thread/step down of the bolt, so the contact point is right on the edge of the Eccentric, rather than the internal wall, this rubber is only a couple of rides old.

    Am I missing a washer/spacer?

    Last edited by geo025; 12-14-2013 at 10:10 PM.

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by geo025 View Post
    I'm getting rapid wear on my SB66c stop bolt rubber.................
    Am I missing a washer/spacer?
    My '13 SB-95 looks just like that (no washer/spacer either)

  86. #86
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    Is this problem only on the alu frames or is it on carbon frames as well?
    And is Yeti planning on fixing this problem? I really want to love this bike but not with problems like that. Maybe if it was a $1,000 frame I could deal with it but for a $3,000 frame forget it. And its not like the switch technology is original. The French budget brand Rockrider had it first, they call it the NEUF link.

  87. #87
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    My issue looks like the bolt is running a little deep into the eccentric so I've installed an "O" ring to space it out a little . A small piece of hydration tube has replaced the old rubber bumper, it will work until another bumper turns up.
    I've also sent an email to Yeti to see what their take is.
    Still love the way this bike fits me & my rides.


  88. #88
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    Took my eccentric apart this evening on my 13' SB66c and the rubber bumper is spilt down the middle. There are some small marks to the eccentric from where the stopper bolt had made its way through the bumper. I've only had the frame for 4 months and ride 2-3 times a week. How frequently are most people checking the bumper?

  89. #89
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    I have been following this thread and have a question to help me identify if I have the same issue without taking the switch apart...

    Several times on my sb66c during full travel - i hear what I thought was the tire rubbing the seat tube type sound, but there isnt evidence of this happening..

    Is this the sound when the switch is hitting this bumper?

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeti575inCA View Post
    I have been following this thread and have a question to help me identify if I have the same issue without taking the switch apart...

    Several times on my sb66c during full travel - i hear what I thought was the tire rubbing the seat tube type sound, but there isnt evidence of this happening..

    Is this the sound when the switch is hitting this bumper?
    Had similar issue on mine. Turned out the cable/housing for front derailleur was rubbing against tire.

    Otherwise, take apart and have a look.
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  91. #91
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    thanks

  92. #92
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    How has the o-ring held up? My bumper stop was making contact with the base of the eccentric, which made me think that the bolt runs too deep into the frame. I added a chainring spacer(similar to your o-ring) to see if that reduces the contact point. Also I got rid of the plastic bumper and replaced it with a valve stem cap. Will test this week and post the findings...

  93. #93
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    I've been using a shraeder cap on my SB95 with a couple of wraps of electrical tape around it. Still knocks, but not as loud as the stock split bumper. I'm going to try a piece of tygon tubing next. Haven't taken the time to look at it, but does it make contact at the top of the stroke or an the inflection point? Should be the inflection point, right? It seem like it makes more noise going through chatter when I stiffen the lsc on the shock.

  94. #94
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    FYI...Check out YetiFanStore.com (based in the UK) for SB66 replacement parts. Just ordered a bunch of bumper stops/bumper bolts and they shipped out today to the US. They've got everything for keeping the SB running smooth...Reasonably priced and shipping was not horrible at all.

    KV

  95. #95
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    I did the Schrader valve cap and it is working great so far.

  96. #96
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    aaaaaaannnnnddd having the same issue with a brand new frame. Gahhhh its frustrating. I wore through a bumper in a couple hrs. Emailed Yeti and awaiting their response.

  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by tangaroo View Post
    aaaaaaannnnnddd having the same issue with a brand new frame. Gahhhh its frustrating. I wore through a bumper in a couple hrs. Emailed Yeti and awaiting their response.
    "Never the rose without the prick"... I guess.

    Did you douse the stop bolt gap/well with grease?
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    Does anyone have a good exploded view of the eccentric assembly showing the bump stop? I just bought a DEMO'd '13 SB-66 and had the shop replace the bump stop because I noticed it thumping on my test ride. I want to be able to replace this myself so it'd be helpful to see a photo or diagram of how the stop fits into the eccentric.

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uberbox View Post
    Does anyone have a good exploded view of the eccentric assembly showing the bump stop? I just bought a DEMO'd '13 SB-66 and had the shop replace the bump stop because I noticed it thumping on my test ride. I want to be able to replace this myself so it'd be helpful to see a photo or diagram of how the stop fits into the eccentric.
    I say just take it apart. It's a very easy system to service. I would say driving a car is harder.

    Here's the exploded view anyways: http://www.yeticycles.com/pdf/manual...nual_SB66C.pdf
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  100. #100
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    Here is the best pic around via Yetifan website. It is part #21
    YETI SB Switch end stop bump stop condom | Yetifan
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