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  1. #1
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    SB-66 Tire Hitting Seat Tube

    Has anyone had this problem? I have a 2.2 Conti Trail King tire on the rear. I was at about 30% sag and took a g out and a smaller drop to tranny and bottomed out.It buzzed my seat tube and put 2 marks about an inch long though the paint and primer. This was my 3rd ride on the bike and loving it but not if this is going to happen all the time or at all.
    Last edited by tdubb; 12-25-2011 at 08:19 PM.

  2. #2
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    Hard to imagine a tire doing this. Can you post a picture ?

  3. #3
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    "busted seat tube"? I dunno...

    But, it's pretty common on most bikes with too little shock pressure to rub a little. I'd accurately add some air to the Rp23 or whatever you're running, rubbing should then go away. Blown shock perhaps?
    Last edited by bpnic; 12-25-2011 at 08:11 AM.
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

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    I have experienced the same thing, I have a 2.5 minion exo on mine though and I know it has only happened on pretty solid bottoming out while dirt jumping and aggressive descending.

    Oh mine has not "busted" anything but I have worn all the way to aluminum :P

    Not worried about it, I love it and want to keep it as nice as possible but I bought it to ride the hell out of it and I'm not scared to ride it like I stole it.
    Want a one of a kind bike? Message me for a one of a kind paint job.

    The internet is a tough place to ride

  5. #5
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    Take out the air and cycle the suspension

    Deflate the shock of all the air. Then cycle the suspension and see what hits when the shock is totally bottomed.

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    I know that bikerader were complaining about it blowing through its travel to easily in there review and turn out it was down to a faulty RP23 so maybe the same thing ? Been hearing a lot of reports recently about reliability issues with fox shox and fork.Me and a mate have both in the last six months sent a set of fox 36's back to mojo for warranty work because we were having problems.

  7. #7
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    Interesting, my ST on my SB66 is scuffed pretty good as well after riding on a 3 week old frame now. Thought is was from my adj. seatpost cable rubbing on it when extended from lowered position, but now realize it is from my rear tire rubbing on it at bottom out. Sounds like the Fox air volume spacer kit will help with this and required if doing any hits on this bike, especially if bigger rider >200lbs since there is no high speed compression or bottom out control on the shock.
    Ride On!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by radman View Post
    I know that bikerader were complaining about it blowing through its travel to easily in there review and turn out it was down to a faulty RP23 so maybe the same thing ? Been hearing a lot of reports recently about reliability issues with fox shox and fork.Me and a mate have both in the last six months sent a set of fox 36's back to mojo for warranty work because we were having problems.
    I think even with a good operating RP23 shock, bottom out and rear tire rub will happen a bit depending on the rider size, type of riding, sag, tire pressure, etc. due to the soft (plush) nature of the end stroke inherent to the suspension design. I think a shock with bottom out control is a necessity for doing any more aggro riding on this bike like the DHX air.
    Ride On!

  9. #9
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    I would think that the limit of the shock stroke should be reached before the tire has a chance to make contact with the frame, let alone hitting it hard enough to break the seat tube.

    Sounds like you're looking at warranty replacement on the frame?

  10. #10
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    It just sounds like some of you guys are running tires that are too tall for this frame. Whether the suspension bottoms out easily or not is irrelevant; the tire should not contact the seat tube at mechanical bottom out.

    Take the shock off the frame and let the tire contact the seat tube. Measure the distance between the shock bolts: if it is less than 6in (shock length at bottom out) that particular tire will hit the seat tube before bottom out. The difference between the distance between shock bolts at tire contact and 6in times the leverage ratio will tell how much travel is sacrificed.

  11. #11
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    He's using a 2.2, wouldn't that be well within reason for tire size, regardless of tire manufacture variances?

    I do completely agree that the mechanical bottom out should be reached before the tire could come into contact with the frame.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmountain View Post
    He's using a 2.2, wouldn't that be well within reason for tire size, regardless of tire manufacture variances?

    .
    One would think, but the OP also stated it broke his seat tube.... My point is, maybe he's actually running a Conti 2.4/2.5" tire. He has yet to post any pictures.
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  13. #13
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    Yes, I want to get more details on this. It certainly changes my mind 100% about this frame as I intend to use it in exactly the same way the OP is.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmountain View Post
    Yes, I want to get more details on this. It certainly changes my mind 100% about this frame as I intend to use it in exactly the same way the OP is.
    I run Mountain King 2.4 tires on my sb, and with the same same ride style as the OP, I have not had any rubbing. (Running a stock 8.5x2.5 rp23).
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  15. #15
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    I hope the OP come back with some pics and details. There are two other people posting they've had problems with the tire rubbing.

    BPNIC, maybe you would be willing to try the experiment above to see if deflating the shock would allow the tire to contact the frame or would the shock reach bottom out first?

  16. #16
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    Well, it's just happens to be Christmas and my kids are in bed. Oh, and I'm not drunk yet, so yes.....I'll help out.


    At mechanical bottom out I have 1/2" clearance with my current rear tire, a Schwalbe NN 2.25. I have measured it's height, and compared that to the height of my front tire, a Conti MK 2.4. (Flatted rear MK 2.4 recently) The heights of the tires are essentially the same.

    Pics-

    https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...52602961074417
    Last edited by bpnic; 12-25-2011 at 07:36 PM.
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  17. #17
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    Awesome! Thanks for doing that BPNIC!!! Yes, it looks to me that there is beyond any doubt enough clearance between the tire and frame with the same room to spare other frames have.

    Thanks again

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmountain View Post
    Awesome! Thanks for doing that BPNIC!!! Yes, it looks to me that there is beyond any doubt enough clearance between the tire and frame with the same room to spare other frames have.

    Thanks again

    No problem!
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  19. #19
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    Sorry Guys I edited my original post. It just buzzed the seat post. Damn phone! I can't upload pics for some reason. I let out the air and it looks to be just a hair closer than bpnic photos. I upped the the air for tomorrows ride and we'll see what happens. It is a 2.2 Mtn king tire. I'll try to post some pics again later.I' will be calling Yeti too to see what they have to say.Even when bottomed out the tire should not make contact with the frame.
    Last edited by tdubb; 12-25-2011 at 08:22 PM.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdubb View Post
    I can't upload pics for some reason. I let out the air and it looks to be just a hair closer than bpnic photos. I upped the the air for tomorrows ride and we'll see what happens. It is a 2.2 Mtn king tire. I'll try to post some pics again later.I' will be calling Yeti too to see what they have to say.Even when bottomed out the tire should not make contact with the frame.
    I hope that it gets resolved positively for you, from my understanding Yeti has a good track record taking care of customers.

    I would also ask them how this could have happened as it would seem to me that some metal has to bend for those to make contact.

  21. #21
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    Those that are having contact problems might want to list which frame size they are on as the tire clearance could vary based on frame size.

    This certainly wouldn't be the first bike with this issue.
    Only two infinite things exist: the universe and stupidity. And, I am unsure of the universe
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ Giggity View Post
    Those that are having contact problems might want to list which frame size they are on as the tire clearance could vary based on frame size.

    This certainly wouldn't be the first bike with this issue.
    First bike or first SB66 with rub issues?

    I have yet to see one single picture of ST rubbing/damage on the 66. Post them if you have them DJ.
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    First bike or first SB66 with rub issues?

    I have yet to see one single picture of ST rubbing/damage on the 66. Post them if you have them DJ.
    I don't own a SB. I meant that other brands/models also have this issue. I own a Tracer which can rub when used with tall tires. (A 2.2 mountain king is not one of them) I believe there were reports of rubbing with the first generation of mojo HDs as well.
    Only two infinite things exist: the universe and stupidity. And, I am unsure of the universe
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ Giggity View Post
    Those that are having contact problems might want to list which frame size they are on as the tire clearance could vary based on frame size.

    .
    I was under the impression most bikes used the same swingarm for each size frame. The swingarm dimensions are usually the same, ie, chainstay, steatstay, ect. lengths.
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ Giggity View Post
    I don't own a SB. I meant that other brands/models also have this issue. I own a Tracer which can rub when used with tall tires. (A 2.2 mountain king is not one of them) I believe there were reports of rubbing with the first generation of mojo HDs as well.
    My Mojo and my Intense 5.5 both rubbed, buy my Sb has yet to. this is why I have a hard time understanding what people are posting with regard to this being an issue....i know every case is different, but please people....post some picks with your slander!
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    First bike or first SB66 with rub issues?

    I have yet to see one single picture of ST rubbing/damage on the 66. Post them if you have them DJ.
    I covered the ST scuffing I have with some black electrical tape on my black SB. But just recently realized the scuffing is more than likely caused by rear tire spray, not from actual tire contact since I haven't yet experienced any harsh tire buzzing sounds or harsh bottom out when using all of the travel, even though the O-ring is at the end or off of the rear shock on any given ride when taking some hits. I imagine I would hear and/or feel the rear tire hitting the frame if this would occur, and I am only running a 2.2 rear tire (Purgatory).

    BTW, this bike has been totally rad and passed the test hammering all of my favorite "local" riding spots over the past few weeks, hitting the trails 4x/wk. The SB blasts even faster than previous bike of similar riding class did with same parts, same travel, etc. Stoked on my SB! One heck of a killer trail/AM bike
    Ride On!

  27. #27
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    For reference I am on a medium SB-66 with a Conti Mountain King II 2.2 on the rear. I run around 30% sag and use all of the travel (push the o-ring off the shock shaft, but no hard bottom out) and haven't experienced any tire rub.

  28. #28
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    I hope my Conti MK 2.4 wont rub.

    I haven't mounted it yet so I could still sell it as new.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by chksix View Post
    I hope my Conti MK 2.4 wont rub.

    I haven't mounted it yet so I could still sell it as new.
    Why would it?
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  30. #30
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    The OP said he used 2.2's that rubbed. 2.4's would be even taller, right?

  31. #31
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    Yeah, I read that.

    But I also read every post following; specifically paying close attention to the pictures and text in post 16 addressing that tire.


    Any rubbing pictures (of a Yeti recommended size tire) have yet to be seen, but i cetainly realize anything is possible.
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  32. #32
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    So it might just be a troll thread?

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by chksix View Post
    So it might just be a troll thread?
    I'm hoping!
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

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    This question is really going to make me sound stupid.

    When pedaling on flats/paved clean roads, is the shock suppose to be moving?

    I have two rides on mine and keeping reading about no pedal bob, but with shock pumped 15lbs over my weight fully decked and almost less then 25% sag, i can see and feel the shock moving when pedaling on the road. First time on an air shock so not sure if this is normal. Coming from a heckler with 5th element and kind of missing it thus far.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtber1510 View Post
    This question is really going to make me sound stupid.

    When pedaling on flats/paved clean roads, is the shock suppose to be moving?

    I have two rides on mine and keeping reading about no pedal bob, but with shock pumped 15lbs over my weight fully decked and almost less then 25% sag, i can see and feel the shock moving when pedaling on the road. First time on an air shock so not sure if this is normal. Coming from a heckler with 5th element and kind of missing it thus far.
    Sounds similar to the problem Randell had, shock pressure and settings.

    ASR 5 Shock pressure?
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  36. #36
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    [QUOTE=bpnic;8892444]Sounds similar to the problem Randell had, shock pressure and settings.




    Thanks for the info, going to contact Yeti, it is a weird feeling and I have pedal my ladies 575 numerous times and never have I seen a shock so active on dry pavement. I know the sb-66 is suppose to be in the full open position from what yeti says, but man it just seems weird that it would move that much. But have set up to almost 25 on the dot. Perhaps a double barrel will be in order!

  37. #37
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    icegeek, thanks, but the monkey motion is not in me... my heckler did not buck like this....

  38. #38
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    pedal in circles, bouncy boys
    Since when did Need have anything to do with this?

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtber1510 View Post
    icegeek, thanks, but the monkey motion is not in me... my heckler did not buck like this....
    Might try tuning down the rebound if you haven't done so already. I only run 4 clicks of rebound from fully off and mitigates a lot of the extra movement. Anything over 5 clicks and bike feels too bouncy/springy for me. Whereas, I used to run at least 8 clicks on previous bike with air shock as well.
    Ride On!

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    Interesting, my ST on my SB66 is scuffed pretty good as well after riding on a 3 week old frame now. Thought is was from my adj. seatpost cable rubbing on it when extended from lowered position, but now realize it is from my rear tire rubbing on it at bottom out. Sounds like the Fox air volume spacer kit will help with this and required if doing any hits on this bike, especially if bigger rider >200lbs since there is no high speed compression or bottom out control on the shock.
    Woa you got a SB66?

    I haven't been on this forumn in quite awhile.

    Anyways Mine rubs in the same place but once I turned the bottom out control up on my fox coil rear it quit doing it. I also put a small peice of helicopter tape where it rubbed it only rubbed once and not enough to leave a mark.

    I have huge 2.4" tires

    Edit and like Jgusta said, it may not have actually rubbed it may have been from spray. Helicopter tape for good measure for me.

    Bike is XL.. if I remove the spring from my shock and compress there is a couple MM clearance still. maybe if i hit hard enough and the tire balooned it might touch.
    2011 Yeti SB-66 XL Fox Float 36, Fox DHX RC4

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    i have a med sb 66 running a 36 rc2 with around 25 % sag set up in the air can .
    Rear tyre is a maxis aspen 26 x 2.25 and have around about a 75 mm wear mark in the paint on the seat tube ,i weigh around 90 kg + gear and have 220 in the can .
    I let all the air out of the can to check clearence and only have around 8mm when fully compressed ,i am pretty dissapointed with yeti and would have thought the r and d guys would have sorted this type of thing preproduction.
    My 08 575 i thrashed for 4 long years and only upgrade to the sb 66 after a test ride .
    The 575 ran faultless only having two bearing kits ,one with pivot axles ,two cracked dogbones and wore out two cranksets and nurmerous chains and cassettes.
    She is hung up on the wall retired like a well loved piece of art ,be a shame to get her back down if they cant get this wear thing fixed ,i have only had the new girl out a few times and can only worry what another 4 years of ridding would do.
    Have spoken with lbs and they are talking with yeti on a fix ,temp fix is some volume reducers in the air can to ramp up on end stroke ,will find out more next week.

  42. #42
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well

    Quote Originally Posted by tribesman View Post
    i have a med sb 66 running a 36 rc2 with around 25 % sag set up in the air can .
    Rear tyre is a maxis aspen 26 x 2.25 and have around about a 75 mm wear mark in the paint on the seat tube ,i weigh around 90 kg + gear and have 220 in the can .
    I let all the air out of the can to check clearence and only have around 8mm when fully compressed ,i am pretty dissapointed with yeti and would have thought the r and d guys would have sorted this type of thing preproduction.
    My 08 575 i thrashed for 4 long years and only upgrade to the sb 66 after a test ride .
    The 575 ran faultless only having two bearing kits ,one with pivot axles ,two cracked dogbones and wore out two cranksets and nurmerous chains and cassettes.
    She is hung up on the wall retired like a well loved piece of art ,be a shame to get her back down if they cant get this wear thing fixed ,i have only had the new girl out a few times and can only worry what another 4 years of ridding would do.
    Have spoken with lbs and they are talking with yeti on a fix ,temp fix is some volume reducers in the air can to ramp up on end stroke ,will find out more next week.
    I am confused. You have 8mm "only" when fully compresed and still think it's the end stroke of the shock?. It may be something else that causes a mechanical contact with the tube. Can you post pictures?. My LBS is going to assemble my medium today with a 2.25 Ardent in the rear. I'll check that clearence for sure and ask them to put a clear sticker there

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by tribesman View Post
    i have a med sb 66 running a 36 rc2 with around 25 % sag set up in the air can .
    Rear tyre is a maxis aspen 26 x 2.25 and have around about a 75 mm wear mark in the paint on the seat tube ,i weigh around 90 kg + gear and have 220 in the can .
    I let all the air out of the can to check clearence and only have around 8mm when fully compressed ,i am pretty dissapointed with yeti and would have thought the r and d guys would have sorted this type of thing preproduction.
    My 08 575 i thrashed for 4 long years and only upgrade to the sb 66 after a test ride .
    The 575 ran faultless only having two bearing kits ,one with pivot axles ,two cracked dogbones and wore out two cranksets and nurmerous chains and cassettes.
    She is hung up on the wall retired like a well loved piece of art ,be a shame to get her back down if they cant get this wear thing fixed ,i have only had the new girl out a few times and can only worry what another 4 years of ridding would do.
    Have spoken with lbs and they are talking with yeti on a fix ,temp fix is some volume reducers in the air can to ramp up on end stroke ,will find out more next week.

    please share with us what type of riding is happening when the tire hits the seat tube.

    example: 5' to flat, 10' to flat, transition drops, gaps, ect.

  44. #44
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    I just have to lol, tyre hitting the frame... Get a grip!!


    Pics or it didn't happen..

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    here's some evidence of rub... and mud.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SB-66 Tire Hitting Seat Tube-dsc05386.jpg  


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    You're not hitting the seat tube if you have a 2.5 travel shock, which is what comes with it. It's unpossible.

    Let the air out of your shock and sit on it.

  47. #47
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    It is possible. my 2.4" panaracer free ride tire did occasionally touch it. I put helicopter tape in the spot. I removed my spring from my shock and compress there is only a couple MM of space left between tube and tire treads...I think if you land hard and the tire baloons out more it may touch. Really though since I put that helicopter tape there and turned my bottom out control up it has never happened again.
    2011 Yeti SB-66 XL Fox Float 36, Fox DHX RC4

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by skrrtch View Post
    here's some evidence of rub... and mud.
    I would advise putting a Fox volume reducer spacer in your shock if haven't already and are running the rp23 of course. I am about 215lb geared and mainly use the SB for trail/AM riding with some light FR/DH here and there at most (no big drops or manmade stunts typically) and put the medium spacer in a few months ago (comes in kit of 3) and haven't notice any rub on seat tube since. Whereas, I would have it to some degree before with stock Fox, especially noticeable on black frame with some discoloration of paint on seat tube at same spot as yours. One of the downsides of the SB w/stock shock and bigger riders or more aggro trail riders I suppose since the suspension is pretty linear and has tendency to blow thru the travel quite easily on any hits. Shocks with high speed compression and/or bottom out adjustment should help mitigate this as well, or the Fox volume spacers work great for the Rp23 if staying with stock shock. The kit is only about $25 and has three different sizes dependent upon how much bottom out control you want and they only affect that last bit of travel, so doesn't alter the perfomance or feel of shock when riding.
    Ride On!

  49. #49
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    I'm running Minion 2.5" single ply tires and have had the o-ring fall off my RS Monarch from hitting jumps and haven't had any rubbing issues.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    I would advise putting a Fox volume reducer spacer in your shock if haven't already and are running the rp23 of course. I am about 215lb geared and mainly use the SB for trail/AM riding with some light FR/DH here and there at most (no big drops or manmade stunts typically) and put the medium spacer in a few months ago (comes in kit of 3) and haven't notice any rub on seat tube since. Whereas, I would have it to some degree before with stock Fox, especially noticeable on black frame with some discoloration of paint on seat tube at same spot as yours. One of the downsides of the SB w/stock shock and bigger riders or more aggro trail riders I suppose since the suspension is pretty linear and has tendency to blow thru the travel quite easily on any hits. Shocks with high speed compression and/or bottom out adjustment should help mitigate this as well, or the Fox volume spacers work great for the Rp23 if staying with stock shock. The kit is only about $25 and has three different sizes dependent upon how much bottom out control you want and they only affect that last bit of travel, so doesn't alter the perfomance or feel of shock when riding.
    Thanks for the advice - I'm 160 pounds or thereabouts and the o-ring is always hanging off the end of the shock (175 psi) so this might be the fix i need.

    is there another thread about sb66 pivots, bearings etc? 2nd time i've had to strip the bike down in the 6 months i've had it and it's pretty gory in there. seized upper bearings on upper pivot, main switch pivot part impossible to remove from frame...

    edit additional info: been running 2.3 ardent rear, sometimes 2.3 butcher. nothing ridiculous.
    Last edited by skrrtch; 05-01-2012 at 07:19 PM. Reason: additional info

  51. #51
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    Bit of a Liteville fan, and in their 601 manual (which I don't have enough posts to link to) they state "Hint: A slight brush of the rear wheel at full compression is nothing to worry about. It will damage nothing and may only leave a brush mark on the seat tube."

    So I guess I've got a brush mark that is nothing to worry about. I can relax.

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    Bringing this old thread up again.
    I switched tyres yesterday to Continental Mountain King (rear) and Rubber Queen (front) both 2.4".
    I disconnected the shock and the tyre touched when the shock would have been compressed more than its available travel. The shock length is 2.5" and tyre contact happened at something like 2.8 to 3.0.
    So the RP23 will bottom out well before there's a chance that huge tyre will hit anything.
    Last edited by chksix; 05-20-2012 at 01:43 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chksix View Post
    Bringing this old thread up again.
    I switched tyres yesterday to Continental Mountain King (rear) and Mountain Queen (front) both 2.4".
    I disconnected the shock and the tyre touched when the shock would have been compressed more than its available travel. The shock length is 2.5" and tyre contact happened at something like 2.8 to 3.0.
    So the RP23 will bottom out well before there's a chance that huge tyre will hit anything.
    I am an engineer, so I would say there is a difference between "static" test and "dynamic" test. When I got my medium I asked the LBS to run the static test (like you did) and they had 8mm to spare. I did however ask them to put two stickers on the potential hit area and after few weeks of riding, jumping I did find a little rub mark on the sticker and added another sticker. I think it may happen when I jump with RP23 at 0 platform. In this case the bike will be easier to blow through the travel and give.
    I don't believe it happend to me since the bike was properly set up, but yes it is confusing as to how this can happen.

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    That would mean that the RP23 can compress all the way until the cylinder hits the rear bushing. I haven't tried dumping all pressure and compress until full stop. I assume the bump stop inside makes the piston stop before the o-ring drops off the cylindrical part of the piston....

    My frame is a M BTW.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SB-66 Tire Hitting Seat Tube-bike.jpg  


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    Mine has bottomed out against the seat tube a couple times now on some flat landings off drops, and I only weigh about 135. I think you can mostly chalk it up to the RP23 not performing well when it comes to big hits. I'm definitely going to try the volume spacer kit when I can get my hands on one.

    Having about 1cm of clearance between the tire and the ST when the shock is compressed without air definitely doesn't mean that the tire can't hit it when you're riding and significantly more force is applied. I believe the shock has as a bottom out bumper that will give a little more under a lot of force, and the frame, switch pivot, and everything else on the bike will flex more than enough to enable contact. I saw a video Yeti posted of them fatigue testing the frame with a solid metal tube in place of the shock and they were putting enough force into the rear triangle to get it to flex significantly. Knowing that Yeti does this kind of testing lets me sleep easy at night knowing that the few times I hit it hard enough to get some tire rub will do nothing more than cosmetic damage. Worse case it may accelerate the death of the shock, but if that happens I'll just send it of to Push to get some decent big hit control

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    I had a medium frame with less than 100 miles on it and defiantly had rubbing. The marks on seatpost looked like a wire brush made a few passes along seat tube. My setup was stock. I'm speaking g in past tense as I just sold the bike for a large SB95. 66 was great but felt a bit small for me. Seems like tire run is affecting mostly medium frames. One has to think its an issue that may effect long term structural integrity.

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    People are forgetting that the tire will balloon out and there will also be flex in the frame/rear triangle when that much force is applied. Just because it doesn't hit in the stand doesn't mean it won't hit on the trail.

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    Seeing that this thread is still going, is anyone on here running a Pushed shock with an optional Push Industries Bump stop and still having this problem?

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    Not yet, but I plan to send mine in at the end of the season. I'm 99% sure it would completely drastically improve if not eliminate the issue.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kramerica5000 View Post
    Not yet, but I plan to send mine in at the end of the season. I'm 99% sure it would completely drastically improve if not eliminate the issue.
    Save yourself mucho dinero over a Push tune or new shock and just pick up a Fox Volume Spacer Kit for $24. I installed the medium size spacer several months ago and haven't had any ST rubbage from tire at all on the hits, whereas I definitely had marks before and would knock the "o-ring" off the shock at times. Not anymore with spacer and only affects the last bit of travel to prevent/minimize bottom out. Works for me, as I have been pretty content with the RP23 on the SB-66 and yet to really have a neccessity to get another shock. But, I could only imagine a Monarch RC3 to be pretty sweet on this bike, especially for air with more volume and better conrol of travel with dual flow dampening as I love my Lyrik DH fork up front.
    Ride On!

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    volume reducers

    This on the use of volume reducers from Yeti:

    "I wouldn’t recommend using them. Because we’ve tried to keep the chainstays as shorts as possible you may see a small scuffing with a larger volume tire. The shock rate has been designed so the switch pivot changes direction at the exact right time, changing that progression will alter the deflection point causing a drastic change in suspension feel. If you’re looking for more support through the middle or end stroke I would contact Fox for custom tuning, more boost pressure or compression shimming will provide that without affecting the rate."

    noticing a "drastic change in suspension feel"?

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    and this from the regional distributor:

    "The Fox guys said that the stock rear shock should be revalved for heavier riders to provide a slightly heavier compression and more progressive damping stroke."

    ... checks weight... <70kg... ummm
    Last edited by skrrtch; 06-10-2012 at 12:30 AM. Reason: stickler for details

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    Quote Originally Posted by skrrtch View Post
    and this from the regional distributor:

    "The Fox guys said that the stock rear shock should be revalved for heavier riders to provide a slightly heavier compression and more progressive damping stroke."

    ... checks weight... <70kg... ummm
    This is what I suspected looking at the Suspension Curves in Yeti's own PR.
    Makes me question the wisdom of swapping shocks or going through with the purchase of the SB66C I have ordered.

    I may have to reconsider a DW linked bike, just none of them have that sweet long TT/short stem I really wanted in the Yeti.

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    Quote Originally Posted by drbelleville View Post
    Seeing that this thread is still going, is anyone on here running a Pushed shock with an optional Push Industries Bump stop and still having this problem?
    I run the Monarch Plus with big hit kit on a first generation Mojo HD and it does very little to help with my Hans Dampf hitting the seat tube. I think the volume reducers on the RP23 or even for me on the Plus which I'll probably put in at some point will make a bigger difference. At this point though not worried at all about the tires hitting seat tube as it does so with little force and tape is enough to prevent cosmetic scratching. Just annoying a few times a ride hearing that tire rub when bottoming out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chasejj View Post
    This is what I suspected looking at the Suspension Curves in Yeti's own PR.
    Makes me question the wisdom of swapping shocks or going through with the purchase of the SB66C I have ordered.

    I may have to reconsider a DW linked bike, just none of them have that sweet long TT/short stem I really wanted in the Yeti.
    I wouldn't let the tire/ST issue discourage you from getting the bike. If it's got the geometry you like, you'll feel that every second you're on the bike. In the time I've had my Yeti, the tire has only hit the seat tube twice, and both those times were really big hits following some big jumps. For normal aggressive trail riding it's really not an issue. And when/if it does hit it's not going to do any damage other than light cosmetic. If you're going to be doing bike parks or flow trails with big jumps & drops, then it might be worth having a coil for those days, or send it to Push for the big hit kit.

    If you want more assurance, watch this video

    yeticycles.com/switch

    go to .08, "TESTING"
    Last edited by kramerica5000; 06-10-2012 at 10:51 AM. Reason: Added link

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    Quote Originally Posted by skrrtch View Post
    This on the use of volume reducers from Yeti:

    "I wouldn’t recommend using them. Because we’ve tried to keep the chainstays as shorts as possible you may see a small scuffing with a larger volume tire. The shock rate has been designed so the switch pivot changes direction at the exact right time, changing that progression will alter the deflection point causing a drastic change in suspension feel. If you’re looking for more support through the middle or end stroke I would contact Fox for custom tuning, more boost pressure or compression shimming will provide that without affecting the rate."

    noticing a "drastic change in suspension feel"?
    That is interesting as I thought the volume spacers only affect the last bit of travel without any change of curve or feel before? I didn't notice the beginning or mid-stroke affected at all when I first installed, but overtime the shock is slowly feeling sticker when first hopping on bike at least, either due to needing some lube or increase progression from spacer? FWIW, the bike still feels like it goes through the travel nice and smoothly when romping down trail w/spacer installed. I suppose getting the Push "big hit" stopper installed would be ideal in knowing the the suspension curve/progressivity is not affected at all as it sounds like it is according to Yeti.
    Ride On!

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    I am having this issue with 2.4 mountain king II's

  68. #68
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    I have protective stickers on the seat tube from day1.
    Rub on harsh landing returned after installing Schwalbe HD but only at extreem cases. The ride of HD, pace star back and trail star is just great IMO.
    Ride a medium SB66 and love it

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