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Thread: SB-66 and creak

  1. #1
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    SB-66 and creak

    Anyone else have creaky pivots on their 66 even after the lower bearing change? Seems like I'm forever battling creaking sounds on mine.

  2. #2
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    Had some that were later isolated to come from the pedals. Mine is as quiet as can be now.

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    Not a sound out of mine. How are you cleaning your bike?

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    200 psi pressure washer

    Kidding. Just a little soap and water. Simple green for the chain.

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    New bearings throughout. Assembled with time, care and grease. Silent.

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

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    Just starting to develop some creaks in mine but suspect it's from my Reverb vs. pivots.

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    I cleaned and greased the pivots again and it got much quieter. My reverb post creaks right at the bolts which needed some grease as well.

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    Mine creaked pretty bad from the shock bushings, greased them creaked stopped them the bush wore out and only after 2.5 months..... I have ordered a sc nomad carbon not happy with my sb66 at all

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    Quote Originally Posted by trailbrain View Post
    I cleaned and greased the pivots again and it got much quieter. My reverb post creaks right at the bolts which needed some grease as well.
    Really? That must be some great grease, or you just aren't riding it.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero View Post
    Really? That must be some great grease, or you just aren't riding it.
    Correction. I am not riding it right.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailbrain View Post
    Correction. I am not riding it right.
    ha, well played~!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by moneycash View Post
    Mine creaked pretty bad from the shock bushings, greased them creaked stopped them the bush wore out and only after 2.5 months..... I have ordered a sc nomad carbon not happy with my sb66 at all
    That Nomad is one good looking ride. 14'' BB (good for my riding), grease ports and a proven design, plus full CF frame at the same price (2011 at Competitive Cyclist) as the Al 66....WOW. I've never been a SC lover for whatever reason but I'm glad I didn't pull the trigger on a 66 recently and went with one more 575 while the kinks get sorted in the new Yeti. My next bike will not be a 575 but I'm not so sure it will be a 66 either taking a closer look at that Nomad

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by eatdrinkride View Post
    That Nomad is one good looking ride. 14'' BB (good for my riding), grease ports and a proven design, plus full CF frame at the same price (2011 at Competitive Cyclist) as the Al 66....WOW. I've never been a SC lover for whatever reason but I'm glad I didn't pull the trigger on a 66 recently and went with one more 575 while the kinks get sorted in the new Yeti. My next bike will not be a 575 but I'm not so sure it will be a 66 either taking a closer look at that Nomad
    Are they still using a QR rear dropout on the new Nomad?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailbrain View Post
    Are they still using a QR rear dropout on the new Nomad?
    If that is some underhanded shot at the Nomad, then it is a miss!

    Yeti has interchangeable drop outs - 135 and 142mm.

    Most would agree that a 10mm bolt-thru or CK HD Funbolts are every bit as stiff as the new 142mm thru axle - with the 142mm just yielding an ease of use benefit. If 142mm were that much better, why did Yeti engineer replaceable dropouts instead of abandoning the sinking ship that is 135mm?

    If that wasn't an underhanded shot, you've got some 'splainin to do! Shopping for a Nomad? 5Spot or Chilcotin?!

    Don't worry, you can probably get a conversion kit for that hub.
    Last edited by CharacterZero; 04-12-2012 at 08:00 AM.

  15. #15
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    Nothing underhanded about it. Just wondering as I was looking at some Nomad pics and noticed the QR dropout. I'm sure the fun bolts would be fine.

    All my hubs convert CZ!

  16. #16
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    I have no idea what the fuss is about the 142mm option. What is it that people are hoping to achieve with it? I have it on my 575 and don't use it. I am quite happy with the 10mm T/A I have.

    Some info on the 142..
    the goal of the 12 x 142 is not to make a stiffer rear end, although it will be inherently stiffer than the equally convenient 135 quick release system that we're all used to, but to combine the best of both a quick release and a thru-axle design.
    Huh...how often do I remove the rear wheel? And when I do I use a hex wrench on my multitool. To each his own I suppose but I'll gladly take 15 seconds out of my day once a month if it saves me 50 bucks or whatever they are charging for the needed axle set up.

    12 mm x 142 mm Axle Standard Explained - Pinkbike.com

  17. #17
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    And then you have to buy the Shimano 142 axle which wasn't available when I tried to buy one. Took about 2 months to get it.

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    My bike got creaky last ride out. It's done this a little bit once or twice before but usually stopped again very quickly, this time seems more definite. And this is my first full-sus so I'm not entirely sure what I'm about when it comes to sorting it. I gotta strip down the linkage and re-grease, right? Can anybody give me a bit of an idiot's guide?

    From looking at the manual it seems I'll be doing some torquing to 40-45 in/lb and also 90-95 in/lb, which would also mean I have some tools to buy. Am I on the right track with this? Anything else I need to be aware of? I guess I'll also be taking the chance to check I have the correct bearings while I'm in there.

    Sorry for the n00b questions, I have looked around the net but I'm a bit scared of making an expensive mistake and couldn't find anything specific to this bike. First time I've been envious of my SC-owning buddies and their fancy-ass grease ports.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by milko9000 View Post
    My bike got creaky last ride out. It's done this a little bit once or twice before but usually stopped again very quickly, this time seems more definite. And this is my first full-sus so I'm not entirely sure what I'm about when it comes to sorting it. I gotta strip down the linkage and re-grease, right? Can anybody give me a bit of an idiot's guide?

    From looking at the manual it seems I'll be doing some torquing to 40-45 in/lb and also 90-95 in/lb, which would also mean I have some tools to buy. Am I on the right track with this? Anything else I need to be aware of? I guess I'll also be taking the chance to check I have the correct bearings while I'm in there.

    Sorry for the n00b questions, I have looked around the net but I'm a bit scared of making an expensive mistake and couldn't find anything specific to this bike. First time I've been envious of my SC-owning buddies and their fancy-ass grease ports.
    Before you strip it down, try to apply some lubricant on the linkage moving parts (not the switch). It helped in my case.

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    Thanks, I'll do that. What sorta lube did you use for this?

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    Quote Originally Posted by milko9000 View Post
    Thanks, I'll do that. What sorta lube did you use for this?
    Old "something" I have for years.
    Not sure about the english term, but apply with a "thin pipe" from the bottle directly where you need lubrication. Every LBS should help you with this IMO.

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    I blobbed some Finish Line wet lube around the pivots and it seems to have done the trick, thanks!

  23. #23
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    The creaking is now more insistent... seems I think to be the bushings more than the pivot itself though. I can get rid of it for a short time with the lube but it seems to come back more quickly now. Any guidance much appreciated.

  24. #24
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    You probably need to tear down the bike, clean everything really well, grease and reassemble. Very easy to do, just reverse the assembly instructions in the manual on the Yeti website. Make sure you use Blue Loctite where it says to, and use a properly adjusted torque wrench.

    I would also take the opportunity to replace the Fox DU bushing with the new style pivots, as that is often the source of creaks. I have a pair on the way direct from Fox.
    Yeti SB-95a Black

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    Sounds good, thanks. I reckon it is those very bushings so I'll do that.

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