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Thread: SB-66 or ASR7

  1. #1
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    SB-66 or ASR7

    Should I take advantage of all of the smoking deals there are right now on the ASR7 or save up a little more and get the SB-66? I have heard nothing but good things about both bikes. Is it true that the ASR7 is being cut from the lineup? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

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    Nate:
    tell us how you ride and we'll pick you a bike.

    I've owned both and am happy to help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    Nate:
    tell us how you ride and we'll pick you a bike.

    I've owned both and am happy to help.
    This is going to be my one bike. I do everything from x-country to downieville. So i am looking for a do it all bike if there is such a thing. Thanks

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    Have you tried to search for this?
    Get a bicycle. You will not regret it, if you live. ~Mark Twain, "Taming the Bicycle"


    www.yeticycles.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nate3510 View Post
    This is going to be my one bike. I do everything from x-country to downieville. So i am looking for a do it all bike if there is such a thing. Thanks
    Ok, i'll do my best.

    i'm 3000 miles from d'ville, and not that up on it, but I get your point....

    the 7 is a great bike at a great price. it is a plush "typical yeti type" ride that descends and even climbs well.....for a seven inch bike. the shock rate for the rear uses all that travel everywhere, meaning you'll spend the entire ride deep in the travel.
    while this is comfy, it's neither fast nor efficient.


    the sb-66 is fast, firm and feels like less travel than 6". think trek remedy, but maybe even firmer with the stock rp23.
    it's not a hucking style all-mountain bike at all, yeti deep down knows this.
    it is though, a great all around trail bike.

    I preferred the ride of my asr-7 in most terrain, but the sb-66 has sped my riding up so much that i'm back up front on group rides. it is so much faster than the seven, that i'll live with the firm ride. I am not as comfortable sending it on the sb, but maybe it's me...

    my .02
    Last edited by bpnic; 01-16-2012 at 07:17 PM.
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by snigs View Post
    Have you tried to search for this?

    I considered asking him, but figured, no.

    sniggs is right Nate, plenty of existing info covering and comparing the two!
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

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    If nothing else, ask yourself how your boys will do with the 7's standover height...

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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    Ok, i'll do my best.

    i'm 3000 miles from d'ville, and not that up on it, but I get your point....

    the 7 is a great bike at a great price. it is a plush "typical yeti type" ride that descends and even climbs well.....for a seven inch bike. the shock rate for the rear uses all that travel everywhere. you spend the entire ride deep in the travel. while this is comfy, it's neither fast nor efficient.


    the sb-66 is fast, firm and feels like less travel than 6". think trek remedy, but maybe even firmer with the stock rp23.
    it's not a hucking style all-mountain bike at all, yeti deep down knows this.
    it is though, a great all around trail bike.

    I preferred the ride of my asr-7 in most terrain, but the sb-66 has sped my riding up so much that i'm back up front on group rides. it is so much faster than the seven, that i'll live with the firm ride. I am not as comfortable sending it on the sb, but maybe it's me...

    my .02
    Thank you very much for the info!! Do you run a 150 or 160 fork on the sb66?

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    Quote Originally Posted by spaightlabs View Post
    If nothing else, ask yourself how your boys will do with the 7's standover height...

    If you owned one, you'd know it's a non issue.


    (Originally Posted by zebrahum)

    You don't size a bike to stand over it. When you're riding the bike the saddle goes to the same height from the BB no matter what bike you're riding so if you can stand over the 7 then it's a great bike. Yes it's tall in standover, but that doesn't change how tall you feel on the bike. That has more to do with BB height and ETT, I would say.


    Z makes a great point.

    I had a 7 and I loved it. I also have a short inseam of 30" and stand about 5'10" tall.
    My medium seven never, ever felt "tall" or "weird". Ever.
    With it's leverage ratio, the bike squats nicely in it's 7" of travel, so there's never really a tall feeling.

    But as Z mentioned, the saddle to pedal distance is set (usually) the same distance from this bike to your last bike... no matter where the top tube is.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nate3510 View Post
    Thank you very much for the info!! Do you run a 150 or 160 fork on the sb66?

    both.

    a lyrik uturn 110-160mm coil and a fox talas 120-150mm. 45mm stem.

    With the sb's geo, i prefer the 150 for everything but shuttling, mainly because of the much shorter axle to crown height.
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post

    the 7 is a great bike at a great price. it is a plush "typical yeti type" ride that descends and even climbs well.....for a seven inch bike. the shock rate for the rear uses all that travel everywhere, meaning you'll spend the entire ride deep in the travel.
    while this is comfy, it's neither fast nor efficient.

    Have you ridden the 7 with a coil shock? I found what your saying to be true with the DHX air it came with. But due to how much air I had to run because of my weight, I switched to an RC4 coil shock and love it. No more wallow, just nice smooth travel when I need it. Plus with the low and high speed compression adjusters, I've been able to tune out most all pedal bob. Still not as effecient as an XC bike, but makes up for it in spades over the rough and decending.

    BTW, I was able to sell my DHX air and upgrade to the RC4 for a total of probably $100.

    I have yet to have ridden an SB66. I came from a '08 575 (PUSH'd) to the 7 because of the great pricing at the time and don't regret it. I wanted to be able to run a coil shock and have a bike better suited for doing lift service runs.

    I'm sure the 66 has a better suspension setup, but you have to ask yourself if you think it's worth the price premium right now. I say pick up a 7 and ride the crap out of it and love it. By the time you grow tired of it, the 66 will have come down in price and be a much better deal. Both frames use the same size shock, so that could be transfered over as well if you upgrade the 7's shock and both can use the same 160mm fork, so it's not like you have to replace the whole bike if you decide to go with the 66 later.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    both.

    a lyrik uturn 110-160mm coil and a fox talas 120-150mm. 45mm stem.

    With the sb's geo, i prefer the 150 for everything but shuttling, mainly because of the much shorter axle to crown height.
    Hey bpnic
    Do you drop your TALAS to 120mm at all?. Do you find it usefull in rocky rooty terrains?. No pedal strikes at 120mm?.
    I have the TALAS (since there were no floats last week) but did not imagine I'll ever use it.
    The bike is so natural at 150mm no matter where you take it............

    By the way, for the sake of this thread I have never rode a 7 for more than a parking lot 1 min ride but knowing the different 575 models, I find it hard to believe that the 7 can climb nearly as good as the SB. The shock may make a difference but it will never close the gap in climbing efficieny and tracking the SB has.
    As for speed, yeh, totaly agree that SB has a remarkable speed not just over the 7 or 575 but even over Mojos that are way lighter and sport the DW for peddaling. The SB is realy a super peddaler all around.
    On the way down the chunk, I believe the 7 wins hands down.
    Last edited by GreenBonty; 01-17-2012 at 12:15 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KrisRayner View Post
    Have you ridden the 7 with a coil shock? I found what your saying to be true with the DHX air it came with. But due to how much air I had to run because of my weight, I switched to an RC4 coil shock and love it. No more wallow, just nice smooth travel when I need it. Plus with the low and high speed compression adjusters, I've been able to tune out most all pedal bob. Still not as effecient as an XC bike, but makes up for it in spades over the rough and decending.

    BTW, I was able to sell my DHX air and upgrade to the RC4 for a total of probably $100.

    I have yet to have ridden an SB66. I came from a '08 575 (PUSH'd) to the 7 because of the great pricing at the time and don't regret it. I wanted to be able to run a coil shock and have a bike better suited for doing lift service runs.

    I'm sure the 66 has a better suspension setup, but you have to ask yourself if you think it's worth the price premium right now. I say pick up a 7 and ride the crap out of it and love it. By the time you grow tired of it, the 66 will have come down in price and be a much better deal. Both frames use the same size shock, so that could be transfered over as well if you upgrade the 7's shock and both can use the same 160mm fork, so it's not like you have to replace the whole bike if you decide to go with the 66 later.
    +1. At the current price of the 7 this would be my route. I have a 7 and a Firebird and like the 7 the most, and that is with the DHX air. I still have yet to move to coil.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBonty View Post
    Hey bpnic
    Do you drop your TALAS to 120mm at all?. Do you find it usefull in rocky rooty terrains?. No pedal strikes at 120mm?.
    I have the TALAS (since there were no floats last week) but did not imagine I'll ever use it.
    The bike is so natural at 150mm no matter where you take it............

    By the way, for the sake of this thread I have never rode a 7 for more than a parking lot 1 min ride but knowing the different 575 models, I find it hard to believe that the 7 can climb nearly as good as the SB. The shock may make a difference but it will never close the gap in climbing efficieny and tracking the SB has.
    As for speed, yeh, totaly agree that SB has a remarkable speed not just over the 7 or 575 but even over Mojos that are way lighter and sport the DW for peddaling. The SB is realy a super peddaler all around.
    On the way down the chunk, I believe the 7 wins hands down.
    GB,
    I rarely use the Talas at 120mm, the few times i had, the trail was pretty steep and the front end was starting to wonder. It's nice that is is an option though, just in case, but the bike is set to full travel most all the time.

    as for the seven climbing....it climbs well for a seven inch bike, mostly due to the active suspension. the sb isn't nearly as active, so it loses points there, but scoots up climbs none the less.

    i owned a mojo, and the ride was a touch softer. the sb feels firmer and faster.
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KrisRayner View Post
    Have you ridden the 7 with a coil shock? I found what your saying to be true with the DHX air it came with. But due to how much air I had to run because of my weight, I switched to an RC4 coil shock and love it. No more wallow, just nice smooth travel when I need it. Plus with the low and high speed compression adjusters, I've been able to tune out most all pedal bob. Still not as effecient as an XC bike, but makes up for it in spades over the rough and decending.

    BTW, I was able to sell my DHX air and upgrade to the RC4 for a total of probably $100.

    I have yet to have ridden an SB66. I came from a '08 575 (PUSH'd) to the 7 because of the great pricing at the time and don't regret it. I wanted to be able to run a coil shock and have a bike better suited for doing lift service runs.

    I'm sure the 66 has a better suspension setup, but you have to ask yourself if you think it's worth the price premium right now. I say pick up a 7 and ride the crap out of it and love it. By the time you grow tired of it, the 66 will have come down in price and be a much better deal. Both frames use the same size shock, so that could be transfered over as well if you upgrade the 7's shock and both can use the same 160mm fork, so it's not like you have to replace the whole bike if you decide to go with the 66 later.

    Kris-
    i'll take your word for it, i did not try a coil, but probably should have. The seven was my XC bike as well, so I stuck with the air can.

    I agree with you on the second point too, snatch the sevens up while you can-
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    the sb-66 is fast, firm and feels like less travel than 6". think trek remedy, but maybe even firmer with the stock rp23. it's not a hucking style all-mountain bike at all, yeti deep down knows this. it is though, a great all around trail bike.
    I don't know, I think the 66a with right parts can handle most things AM quite well (even though that is kind of an ambiguous term) with burmy, jumpy, booty, dropping, fast and rough stuff and yet feel nice and snappy and very "trail-like" when ridden on your standard trail rides as well like you mentioned.

    I have been hammering mine with 32lb build on everything (4-5x/wk) here in PacNW for almost a couple of months now, including runs/trails that typically only people shuttle with high speed, wide singletrack runs littered with good sized booters and tables and the SB66 feels solid to me bombing, launching, and landing even with stock air configuration at 30% sag and +200lb rider. My last bike was tagged as an AM/FR bike and the 66, at least how I have it built for me (Lyrik DH, Saint brakes, SLX cranks, Mallet pedals, wide bars/short stem), feels even more versatile. I can comfortably do +3500' trail climbs followed with smoking descents. Feels like a great DH trail bike to me that jumps well too with great standover to get a little styley in the air as needed with great ramp up for the hits and nice plush, stable landing with no harshness or bottom out at all. I am always impressed how well it handles square-edged hit in my neck of the woods, like tree stump booters and roots. The 6" feels somewhat "bottomless" to me with EVO floater- like suspension (Remedy, Slash) as compared to my previous bike which was 6" and more VP-like in performance with chain forces and suspension dependent upon the other.

    So far this bike has been a very soild, versatile machine for me and I would argue that it does handle AM stuff quite well with a solid 160 fork and the right parts.
    Ride On!

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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta View Post
    I don't know, I think the 66a with right parts can handle most things AM quite well (even though that is kind of an ambiguous term) with burmy, jumpy, booty, dropping, fast and rough stuff and yet feel nice and snappy and very "trail-like" when ridden on your standard trail rides as well like you mentioned.

    I have been hammering mine with 32lb build on everything (4-5x/wk) here in PacNW for almost a couple of months now, including runs/trails that typically only people shuttle with high speed, wide singletrack runs littered with good sized booters and tables and the SB66 feels solid to me bombing, launching, and landing even with stock air configuration at 30% sag and +200lb rider. My last bike was tagged as an AM/FR bike and the 66, at least how I have it built for me (Lyrik DH, Saint brakes, SLX cranks, Mallet pedals, wide bars/short stem), feels even more versatile. I can comfortably do +3500' trail climbs followed with smoking descents. Feels like a great DH trail bike to me that jumps well too with great standover to get a little styley in the air as needed with great ramp up for the hits and nice plush, stable landing with no harshness or bottom out at all. I am always impressed how well it handles square-edged hit in my neck of the woods, like tree stump booters and roots. The 6" feels somewhat "bottomless" to me with EVO floater- like suspension (Remedy, Slash) as compared to my previous bike which was 6" and more VP-like in performance with chain forces and suspension dependent upon the other.

    So far this bike has been a very soild, versatile machine for me and I would argue that it does handle AM stuff quite well with a solid 160 fork and the right parts.
    J-
    You certainly make a valid case for an climbing and hucking type Sb.


    We can almost dress up any 5 or 6" bike with a coil rear and a 36 up front, meaty tires, dropper post, tiny stem and a set of Boobars and make it funner. But If I was lucky enough to ride Whistler or Highland (NH) regularly, I think I'd opt for something like an Uzzi, Reign X, Canfield, or an Entourage. Maybe even a FB or HD.

    Lately, it seems the kids fill my Summer weekends more than the chairlift, so my Sb unfortunately isn't tested like it should be.
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    J-
    You certainly make a valid case for an climbing and hucking type Sb.


    We can almost dress up any 5 or 6" bike with a coil rear and a 36 up front, meaty tires, dropper post, tiny stem and a set of Boobars and make it funner. But If I was lucky enough to ride Whistler or Highland (NH) regularly, I think I'd opt for something like an Uzzi, Reign X, Canfield, or an Entourage. Maybe even a FB or HD.

    Lately, it seems the kids fill my Summer weekends more than the chairlift, so my Sb unfortunately isn't tested like it should be.
    I never ridden the SB66 at a bike park, so couldn't really tell how it be in that kind of terrain/situation but imagine it to handle like any solid AM would w/160 fork and air suspension to compare fairly.

    At my local bomber trails where you have to climb fairly long steep grades to get to the goods to rip down, I couldn't imagine a better bike for me, but I guess I am a little biased and still under the "new bike buzz". So far I would take this over a Nomad, Rune, FB, and possibly even a HD (but that is kind of a toss up for me) especiallly a HD w/coil at about the same weight as SBa w/air and possibly more capable?

    In the end, the SB really is a really FUN bike for me to ride on the kind of terrain I spend most my time on in NW Oregon/SW WA with mostly buffed, loamy, rooty, some loose, some rocky, burmy/carvy/jumpy rippy terrain with just the stock RP23 air (never particulary liked RP23 when ran on bikes before), All this makes the SB feel like a total, do-all trail/AM assasin to me!
    Ride On!

  19. #19
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    Space reserved for huge ASR-7 post and video shoing how rad me and my ASR-7 are when I get out of class.. And I do everything from 24hr races to downieville to race downhill on my 7..

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    Im also a bit curious to maybe pick up a 7! Strange thing is the sizing on the 7! I currently have a Large 2010 Nomad, im 6-1 with a 32" inseam. The sizing listed on Yetis website puts the dimensions of the Medium 7 ALMOST exactly to my Large Nomad. In fact, the TT on my L Nomad is 22.5 (center HT to center ST) and the M 7 is listed LONGER at 23.6"... The ST length is the same as is the axle to axle... Strange! Should I go with the Medium 7, or go L??? Anyone have seat time on both to compare? I have had Nomads for 3 years and love em, but would like to try something new!

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    6'2" here with a 34" inseam and I came off of an '08 575, size Lg, to a '10 ASR7 size XL. Top tube just a little longer than the lg 575, but with a shorter stem (70mm) it's just right.

    From everyone's review I thought I might need a Lg 7 but from experience I found the XL to be right for me. I think the seat tube able of the 7 makes the top tube length a little longer.

  22. #22
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    Dam thats a big bike! I like how my Nomad feels and a bit afraid of having a bike thats too big! I like the bike more maneuverable. My thought is if it specs out the same dimensions I should be comfy, UNLESS Yeti makes the bike bigger for a reason?

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    Quote Originally Posted by swan3609 View Post
    Space reserved for huge ASR-7 post and video shoing how rad me and my ASR-7 are when I get out of class.. And I do everything from 24hr races to downieville to race downhill on my 7..

    Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
    Tic Toc

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    Quote Originally Posted by socalMX View Post
    Im also a bit curious to maybe pick up a 7! Strange thing is the sizing on the 7! I currently have a Large 2010 Nomad, im 6-1 with a 32" inseam. The sizing listed on Yetis website puts the dimensions of the Medium 7 ALMOST exactly to my Large Nomad. In fact, the TT on my L Nomad is 22.5 (center HT to center ST) and the M 7 is listed LONGER at 23.6"... The ST length is the same as is the axle to axle... Strange! Should I go with the Medium 7, or go L??? Anyone have seat time on both to compare? I have had Nomads for 3 years and love em, but would like to try something new!
    Are you measuring effective top tube? On competitive cyclist, they show a 2011 Nomad effective TT to be 23.8" on a Large and 22.8" on a medium. Medium ASR 7 it shows as 23.6" and Large as 24.6". My '08 575 Large had a TT of 24.9" and my XL ASR7 is 25.6", but I went from a 110mm stem(575) to a 70mm stem(7).

    How is the cockpit setup on you Nomad?

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    Effective TT??? Yetis site has the TT dimension measured from center of HT to center of ST, so I walked outside and measured my L center HT to center ST to be 22.5 and the 7 med is 23.6 listed. To me that would give me a bit mor room going from my L down to a M???

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