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  1. #1
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    rp23 question on '11 575

    I posted a question about this in the shocks/suspension thread but I was curious after reading a response if this is more a Yeti-specific or FOX-in-general thing. So my bike came with the rp23 and I followed the chart from yeti to set my shock at 185psi. I couldn't see a difference between pro-pedal or open and have slowly increased the pressure, now up to 205psi. Whether on pro-pedal or not the whole travel-length of the shock is used, and it feels the same on either setting. Someone suggested the tune of the shock wasn't right. I'm new to riding so I was curious if there are other 575 owners out there with the rp23 who have the same findings. If so, any ideas on how to adjust/fix this? Thanks.
    2011 Yeti 575 Enduro - stock (for now)

  2. #2
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    From what you wrote, I'm assuming you weigh around 160lbs, right? That's the weight that I am.

    I also have a '11 575 but with a RP23 with adaptive logic and kashima coating. With my pressure set at 185psi, there is quite a noticeable difference between with the shock stiffness when the dial is set at 0 compared to the dial being set to 3. Even without sitting on the bike and just putting body weight on the seat to compress the rear shock.

    I would suggest setting the shock pressure back to the Yeti suggested amount for your weight, and check shock stiffness between 0 and 3. If no difference, perhaps call up the place where you bought the bike or visit your local bike shop. Remember, the recommended sag is 25%, check that too.

  3. #3
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    Yea, I'm about the same weight as you and I have the same shock. I got my bike this past Christmas. If there is a difference between the 2 most extreme settings it's nowhere near 'quite noticeable'. Now I understand that it's not a true lockout as older FOX shocks I've ridden, but I figured I should have to almost jump and put all my weight on it to get the rp23 to compress on '3'. I get about the same amount of sag whether it's on or off...so either I'm not doing something right (but I'm following the instructions from yeti) or there's something else wrong I guess.
    2011 Yeti 575 Enduro - stock (for now)

  4. #4
    BKB
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    Pro pedal isn't a lockout. It's suppose to help with pedal bob when grinding up hills. It still travels the same when going down hill & on on bigger hits.

    I noticed the same with pro pedal on or off on my bike. Their is a difference when you switch between 0 & 3.
    Who Did He Tell You That?

  5. #5
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    11' 575 and tried a few different sag settings on my shock, but I'm at 25% sag and pretty close to the same at the front. There is a noticeable difference with the propedal on/off. I found propedal "3" setting to be too stiff for technical/loose/steep climbs causing the rear wheel to slide and ski - same ride at propedal "2" was fine.

  6. #6
    LCW
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    I have an '11 575. Just built it up last week. Took it for a spin tonight. Has an '11 RP23, ie not Kashima. Set to 200 at first and had a bit too much sag, like 30%. Set to 210 and that seemed right. I'm about 192 lbs. I did notice a difference with PP on (3) vs off.

  7. #7
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    I got online and chatted with a bike tech from the place I got the bike and he said something's not right given that I can compress the shock at 200psi by standing next to the bike and pushing on the it, whether it's on propedal or open. He suggested I contact FOX directly, so we'll see what they say. I mean I know it's gonna compress at any setting with the adaptive logic...but I'm no where near the physical abilities to be compressing a shock that easily.
    2011 Yeti 575 Enduro - stock (for now)

  8. #8
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    So just wanted to update. I emailed FOX to see about my questions on my rp23 and this is what a rep said:

    "Propedal will only effect the shock under low speed compression such as rider input while pedaling. If you are off the bike pushing down on the seat and are not pushing slowly, mimicking this movement the shock will still cycle through its travel normally. This is designed to keep the suspension active while minimizing bobbing under pedaling for maximum traction and efficiency."

    I then asked the difference seen with in/out of saddle pedaling since I notice a lot of compression when I'm climbing out of saddle, his reply:

    "Out of the saddle pedaling will always have more bobbing that in the saddle pedaling as this usually puts more of a spike in the compression compared to the smoother low speed compression of a in saddle pedaling motion. The easiest way to tell the difference that the propedal is making is to put an elbow/forearm on the seat of the bike and then put your body weight on the seat. Also, propedal will feel different on many shocks as the strength of the propedal changes according to the valving that is spec’d in each specific shock. This will be shown on the tuning decals on the air canister."

    Just for reference if anyone wants to know my decals on the shock say something like:
    "Boost Valve 150" "Rebound tune M" "Velocity F"

    IDK if it really answers anyone else's questions, but I slightly see a difference with it on/off using the 'elbow method'. If I'm expecting more of a lockout-feel then guess it's time to upgrade.
    2011 Yeti 575 Enduro - stock (for now)

  9. #9
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    what do the different tunes actually entail? I have been wondering this.
    I have the rp23with boost valve and xv sleeve, it says high volume on the canister and the tunes are boost valve 175, rebound M, velocity L. I weigh 165ish. shock is speced to the giant reign frame it is on.

    i have read that adding shims to the canister make the shock more tunable and you actually get to feel the difference with propedal. and it is free to do, or fox sells kits.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/turner/dw-5-s...st5513120.html

  10. #10
    Long live the ASR-7
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    Push Industries - Home

    Or send it off to PUSH. They will tune the shock to you, your bike and your riding style.

  11. #11
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    An article in the new mountain bike action says your pro pedal performance is greatly affected by the velocity tune.

    A tune of "F" would make the pro pedal basically non existent.

    So basically you buy a $400 shock and have to spend another $180 to get the performance you need.



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    2011 Yeti 575 Race
    2008 Gary Fisher Piranha

  12. #12
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    Thanks for all the input. From all the shocks I've seen recently, all but mine are 175 Boost Valve and velocity tune M. (I haven't seen anything different than Rebound M) I guess the 150 Boost Valve and velocity F have some sort of meaning but I haven't been able to truly define those values. I rode this past weekend at 205psi and it finally felt different than in the past. Not a night&day difference, but you could tell it was there. Even though it's frowned upon I'm gonna keep it about 20psi or so higher than what's suggested for my weight for now. I don't have time to be going back/forth with FOX at the moment. I agree that something lingering on your mind is annoying, but with a little something to work off now at 205psi I'm gonna set it with propedal on and forget it until I can get around to it again.
    2011 Yeti 575 Enduro - stock (for now)

  13. #13
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    I figured F was either Fast or Full. Anyway, it's a S 575. Could you elaborate on what you mean by what the bike specs for the shock? I'm guessing this is what came with the factory package? I haven't come across any other 575s around town, but my friends who have S or XS bikes also have 175 Boost and Rebound/Velocity M.
    2011 Yeti 575 Enduro - stock (for now)

  14. #14
    EDR
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    My '12 has a velocity tune of "F" on a '12 small frame. The PP works just fine, MDTX I can't remember if you said this is your first fs bike or if it's your first nice fs bike but compression characteristics are sometimes very subtle and not easily detected by a novice rider b/c they tend to expect waaaaay too much difference between settings. Anyway if you are a longtime fs rider then my apologies, just throwing that out there.

    All that being said, this new rp23 leaves a lot to be desired. I've given my new shock 2 months of riding time now hoping I'll get used to it and find it adequate but my feelings get more and more negative about the ride the more I ride it. I'll be ditching this new shock and putting my old '08 PUSH'd rp23 on the new bike. It's a far superior shock with the PUSH tune, especially on the 575.

  15. #15
    EDR
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    Velocity tune of "F" = FIRM from what I have read elsewhere. The options are low/med/firm.

    I might make some internal spacers while I'm sitting around today and try to boost the spring rate a bit. Fox does offer a kit for this but it's 25 bucks for a couple of plastic discs that anyone could fashion at home. We'll see.

  16. #16
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    eatdrinkride - thanks for the input. I'm still getting my feet wet, you could say, to this sport so yeah at the beginning I was comparing this to an older FOX which had a true lockout. When I realized it's 2 different systems I lessened my expectations a bit but I figured it should be a little stiffer than 'open'. I guess I'll just have to play around with things until I find what I like. I've heard of sending it off to PUSH, but I can't really put a finger on what 'my style' is right now so that they tune it to fit me best, hence I'm still holding out on doing that.

    motofix - thanks for explaining what you meant. It makes total sense what you said. Yeah, I'm like right in between at 5'9-5'10 and 160ish lbs so I guess I'm either heavy on one side, light on the other. I've not been able to find factory specs either myself.
    2011 Yeti 575 Enduro - stock (for now)

  17. #17
    EDR
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    Quote Originally Posted by MD_TX View Post
    I was comparing this to an older FOX which had a true lockout. When I realized it's 2 different systems I lessened my expectations a bit but I figured it should be a little stiffer than 'open'.

    .
    The PP setting from open to firm (position 3) is quite noticeable on my bike. But I'm still not sure you are understanding what that difference would feel like. It's really evident when just sitting on the bike. It feels like the rear "stands-up" a little more with full PP and more easily sags down into position in full OPEN. Riding the bike the differences are most notable when climbing for me, or even just riding at a normal pace on smooth but undulating terrain...and of course to some degree when landing a drop, but not as much as you would think. The reason for this is that the compression damping settings (PP) are really low speed controlled events. Like the Fox guy said, pedaling and moving around on the bike generally cause low speed compression events. Rolling off a curb (even a small 4'' one), or hitting a rock at speed, or landing a ledge drop are all high speed events and the PP will have a much less noticeable effect. The shock should use all it's travel no matter what setting, it's just that PP can tune out rider induced events to the shock to a degree. This is really needed on the 575 and other single pivot designs. Either that or you need to be a really really really smooth pedaler, lol.

    At the end of the day you could just have a faulty shock. good luck.

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