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  1. #1
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    mystery creak on SB-95

    I have a creak on my aluminum SB-95 (2012 aluminum edition) and it's driving me nutty. It seems to appear when I'm cranking hard on the pedals (usually going up a hill) or when going deeper into the travel of the bike on some sort of downhill rager.

    Here's what I've tried so far:
    - different pedals
    - cleaned and greased the saddle rails
    - tried a different seatpost
    - tried a different saddle
    - regreased the pawls in the freehub
    - relubed the rear skewer
    - had the pivot bolts taken out, regreased/ and torqued to spec
    - had bottom bracket removed and all the grit cleaned out
    - lubed the chain ring bolts
    - checked the derailleur bolt for tightness/torque
    - BB regreased
    - crank bolt torque checked
    - main bolt attaching the swing arm to the frame regreased and torqued to spec
    - lubed the dropouts on the frame
    - righted the screws attaching the dropouts
    - cleaned/lubed the seat collar

    So yeah, I've tried a few things. Having the grit cleaned out seemed to help the most in reducing the frequency of the creak but the creak is still present. Could it be the bearings in the pivots?

    One other disclosure, the creak appeared after installing the XX1 drivetrain and a dropper post on the bike (the reason I tried a different seatpost). I have no idea if that's related but it seems too coincidental not to mention. I had briefly thought it might be the clutch in the Type 2 rear derailleur but I'm not convinced.

    I would greatly appreciate some thoughts here.
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  2. #2
    Spring! Spring! Spring!
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    If the bearings are worn *within* the races then they can certainly creak. It's not impossible there's dirt worked in between the bearing sets and the frame/yoke/switch *but I doubt it*.

    You also may want to consider adding 1/8 to 1/4 more of a turn on the rear QR to tighten up the rear end a bit more.

    The two repeating creaks I've had are when water gets into the BB and over time when the rear chips allow dirt/water to work in. Removing, cleaning, greasing interfaces, reinstalling cures that for me. The former seems to be about quarterly and the latter annual.

    If it was just hard cranking I'd also consider other driveline points ... dirt on the rings / cassette, dirt between cassette and freehub splines, etc. Those may help, or not, but are easy to do so why not. BUT with your comment about happening during "downhill rage" I dunno.

    I had a strange creak develop that I only heard downhill, turned out to be loose rear brake caliper bolts. Obviously that can't be affected by pedalling (or at least I assume you're not dragging your brake uphill).

    good luck.

  3. #3
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    I had the same problem on my Pivot 5.7, noise was exactly as you discribe. Tore everything apart and it turned out to be the Fox fork clicking at the stantion tubes. Had Fox repair under warranty. Now my Fox 34 on my Yeti is clicking.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilbcol View Post
    I had the same problem on my Pivot 5.7, noise was exactly as you discribe. Tore everything apart and it turned out to be the Fox fork clicking at the stantion tubes. Had Fox repair under warranty. Now my Fox 34 on my Yeti is clicking.
    How did you determine it was the fork? Is there some sort of test one can do for that?

    I actually put a Pike on mine so no Fox...
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  5. #5
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    I have not heard of anyone having a problem with the Pike, but you could test it just to rule it out. Flip bike upside down, take front wheel off and take hold of each leg. Torque them in opposite directions (might have to put your foot on the handlebar grip to keep from turning) pulling on one as you push on the other. if it creaks or pops then that could be your problem. but as i said i have not heard of anyone having problems with the Pike.

  6. #6
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    You now what you might check , is the XX1 cassette where it sits on the driver , some of the different companies drivers do not fit quite right and the dam thing will make this God awful creak and you can't find it for your life .

    And it comes in just as you say , I had one on a 13 Pivot 429c that nobody could find .

    I put over 30 miles on the dam thing over 2 days until I lubed the outer side of the driver and the inner side of the XX1 cassette ................just throwing that out there

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoNeener View Post
    - had the pivot bolts taken out, regreased/ and torqued to spec

    I would greatly appreciate some thoughts here.
    Are you referring to the Switch main aluminum bolt? If so, then that would have been my suggestion. It removes from the right side and has a wedge collar on it? That bugger was the issue for me.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by kelstr View Post
    You now what you might check , is the XX1 cassette where it sits on the driver , some of the different companies drivers do not fit quite right and the dam thing will make this God awful creak and you can't find it for your life .

    And it comes in just as you say , I had one on a 13 Pivot 429c that nobody could find .

    I put over 30 miles on the dam thing over 2 days until I lubed the outer side of the driver and the inner side of the XX1 cassette ................just throwing that out there
    That's a good idea. I'm running I9's (not the torches). A little lube there couldn't hurt.
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