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  1. #1
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    Is my 575 swingarm cracked? Seeking opinions - pic inside

    My bicycle is a '12 575 purchased and ridden since July of 2012. Attached is a photo of something I noticed on my frame today. I took it to an authorized dealer, and the service tech informed me that it is his opinion that this is a "crack/scratch in the clearcoat", and not in the frame. When I asked him why, he gave a few reasons:

    -Color of the crack relative to the frame. Although it is hard to see here, it looks whitish when you look at it. It would seem if it was a crack, there would be empty space so it would either appear flush against the black of the frame, or filled with dirt.

    -Non-irregular pattern of the line. The path of the line is more consistent with the trajectory of a rock or something hard lodging and then dislodging itself from the rear wheel, and slamming into that location.

    For what it is worth, I had noticed a superficial scratch in that spot a few months ago. Could it be this scratch has merely gotten bigger on the clear coat due to micro-stresses, and is just superficial?

  2. #2
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    That's aluminum right? Looks cracked to me but I'm having a hard time placing what I'm looking at without my bike in front of me.

  3. #3
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    Is my 575 swingarm cracked? Seeking opinions - pic inside

    Sure looks like a crack to me.

  4. #4
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    I would get the area super clean with rubbing alcohol or an equivalent and check it with a magnifying glass under a bright light. You'll know if it's cracked if you do that.

  5. #5
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    yes, that is a crack welcome to the club

  6. #6
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    If its in the clear coat, you should be able to make it go away by rubbing it with something abrasive -- ie: remove the clear coat. If its a crack, it will still be there. Get it clean like suggested above, then go at it with brillo/sos/sand paper/something abrasive to see if you can get rid of it.

    Also, something I found with a crack I had - if you get some moisture in there, and then flex the frame ( seems hard in that area ) you might be able to see the moisture move in and out of the crack. ( compress crack, and moisture will rise out of it )

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by slcpunk View Post
    If its in the clear coat, you should be able to make it go away by rubbing it with something abrasive -- ie: remove the clear coat. If its a crack, it will still be there. Get it clean like suggested above, then go at it with brillo/sos/sand paper/something abrasive to see if you can get rid of it.

    Also, something I found with a crack I had - if you get some moisture in there, and then flex the frame ( seems hard in that area ) you might be able to see the moisture move in and out of the crack. ( compress crack, and moisture will rise out of it )
    Per your advice, I sanded the coat down to the bare aluminum. As I sanded, the mark got less visible. It went from a white streak to a black scratch. When I got to the aluminum, I could not see anything, even with a magnifying glass. Hopefully it was just a coat issue, but I will continue to keep an eye on it. Now that I have a bald spot near the joint it would originate from, I should be able to tell if the crack gets bigger, if it is a micro-crack of sorts.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by kayman121 View Post
    Per your advice, I sanded the coat down to the bare aluminum. As I sanded, the mark got less visible. It went from a white streak to a black scratch. When I got to the aluminum, I could not see anything, even with a magnifying glass. Hopefully it was just a coat issue, but I will continue to keep an eye on it. Now that I have a bald spot near the joint it would originate from, I should be able to tell if the crack gets bigger, if it is a micro-crack of sorts.
    Based on your report, the next indication that you have a crack will be a black line forming where the scratch used to be. This will be evidence of the metal surfaces rubbing together to produce fretting corrosion; this will convert the metal into a black liquid that will emanate from the crack.

  9. #9
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    Paint is way more flexible than AL or C. If the paint is cracked then the material is cracked. That will be back after a ride or two.

  10. #10
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    where is the pic that shows cleaned up and not paint?

  11. #11
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    yup, glad i got rid of my yeti.

  12. #12
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    Re: Is my 575 swingarm cracked? Seeking opinions - pic inside

    Quote Originally Posted by Inuitbiker View Post
    yup, glad i got rid of my yeti.
    You should go make this comment in every single bike manufacturer forum on this website.

    "Glad I got rid of my xxx"

    Brilliant.

  13. #13
    Spring! Spring! Spring!
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    i only ask that the frame only brakes once a year.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by eatdrinkride View Post
    You should go make this comment in every single bike manufacturer forum on this website.

    "Glad I got rid of my xxx"

    Brilliant.
    Exactly what I was thinking!

    @ kayman121 - hope it was just a false alarm! Doesn't seem like a typical spot for a crack to occur (judging by the pic you posted).

  15. #15
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    Check our case .... YETI SUCKS !!!

    ASR5 cracked rear swingarm , after 3 months of use

  16. #16
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    You can use "Ink" (very thin, fluid ink) to trace the crack, just applied to the area, let it dry and then clean if is crack (I think it is) you will see the line thanks to the ink..

  17. #17
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    2012 Yeti 575
    2009 Specialized SX
    2009 Cove Siffee Hard tail

  18. #18
    Int'l Sales Mgr. - Yeti
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    Hey guys-

    If you think you have any sort of warranty or crash replacement issue, you could save a lot of time and energy by getting in touch with your Dealer right from the start. They'll guide you through providing all the necessary info, and we'll get started on making things right very soon thereafter.

    Cheers,

    JP
    Yeti Cycles// Ride Driven

    Please Email rather than PM: johnp AT yeticycles DOT com

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Inuitbiker View Post
    yup, glad i got rid of my yeti.
    settle down....poop happens
    you can get passed a dog... nobody fuks with a lion

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by John P. View Post
    Hey guys-

    If you think you have any sort of warranty or crash replacement issue, you could save a lot of time and energy by getting in touch with your Dealer right from the start. They'll guide you through providing all the necessary info, and we'll get started on making things right very soon thereafter.

    Cheers,

    JP
    Exactly how it is suppose to go especially with carbon. If you think you have a problem ask the service guys at your shop first before you reach out to the internet professionals.
    you can get passed a dog... nobody fuks with a lion

  21. #21
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    Yep, Do as John P says.....I had the same problem, took mine to my dealer, and all was fixed. Yeti in Australia did a great job of sorting out the issue.
    Rob
    2012 Yeti 575
    2009 Specialized SX
    2009 Cove Siffee Hard tail

  22. #22
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    You should go through the warranty procedure but considering you've been at it with emery paper your probably only left with crash replacement.

    If you get no luck and want some piece of mind or confirmation you could try Dye Penetration Testing. Essentially you spray on a Dye penetrant that gets "sucked" into the crack via capillary action, you then wipe off the excess thoroughly but the dye remains "trapped" in the crack.. you then spray on a developer which draws the dye out of the crack and making it easily visible... therefore confirming the crack.

    It's cheap and easy to do but also easy to get wrong.. yet if you know the possible location of a crack it's much easier than testing large areas.. I personally don't like it but it's better than a magnifying glass.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by RocketMagnet View Post
    You should go through the warranty procedure but considering you've been at it with emery paper your probably only left with crash replacement.

    If you get no luck and want some piece of mind or confirmation you could try Dye Penetration Testing. Essentially you spray on a Dye penetrant that gets "sucked" into the crack via capillary action, you then wipe off the excess thoroughly but the dye remains "trapped" in the crack.. you then spray on a developer which draws the dye out of the crack and making it easily visible... therefore confirming the crack.

    It's cheap and easy to do but also easy to get wrong.. yet if you know the possible location of a crack it's much easier than testing large areas.. I personally don't like it but it's better than a magnifying glass.
    This frame was just sent off to yeti last week. Before I went at it with sandpaper, I asked Yeti, and they assured me it would not interfere woth a warranty claim.

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