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  1. #1
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    Help me change the 575 Enduro Build

    I think I'm gonna take the plunge and get a 575. My reservation was the weight and how much impact it would have on all the climbing that is required here in the CO front range.

    So, my plan is to start with an Enduro kit and swap out some of it to lighten it up. Here's the plan so far -

    Std Enduro Build

    frame - 575 with RP23 --------------> add carbon rear
    fork - Fox Vanilla 130 RL ----------------> Fox Talas 140
    Headset Cane Creek S-2 -----------> (no change)
    Brakes Avid Juicy 5.0 --------------> (no change)
    Shifters Sram X.9 trigger -------------> (no change)
    Front Der. Shimano XT FD-761 -----------> (no change)
    Rear Der. Sram X.9 -----------------> (no change)
    Crankset Race Face Evolve XC -------------> Race Face Dues XC or Shimano XT ??
    Cassette Sram PG-950 ------------> Shimano XTR 12-34
    Chain Shimano HG-53 -------------> ??
    Stem Race Face Evolve XC ------------> ??
    Handlebar Race Face Next Carbon -----------> Easton EC 90 Monkey Lite??
    Grips Yeti Hard Core ---------------> Ritchey WCS Foam (comfy)
    Seatpost Race Face Evolve XC ---------------> Thomson Elite??
    Saddle WTB Rocket-V cro-mo rail -----------> something Ti railed
    Hubs F-R Yeti ARC/Shimano Deore -----------> Mavic Crossmax XL Disc
    Tires Maxxis Minion 2.35" - ST -------------> Conti Vert Pro UST, Spec Adrenaline?
    --------------------------------------> Wellgo Ti SPD pedals

    I'm hoping for 27ish pounds.

    Please give me your thoughts - especially on the crank and the 31.8 vs 25.4 dia handlebar

  2. #2
    EDR
    Reputation: eatdrinkride's Avatar
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    This bike climbs great at 27lbs or 30lbs....I am not missing your point though...

    Specialized tires are quite heavy from my experience, but I love them non-the-less.

    Thomson stems may cost twice as much as a RF but does it weigh half as much? I don't know and even if it did how much does that really save?

    My advice.....get the bike with the lightest wheelset you can afford and if a light weight fork is what you like then go for that as well but keep in mind climbing on a light fork is nice but a more capable fork for the downs really makes this bike shine while giving up very little......unless of course you are a weight weenie,,,,,,haha.

  3. #3
    Bomber
    Reputation: audi0phile's Avatar
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    i bought a large 575, enduro build, alloy triangle, built up sans pedals, 28.5. like EDR said, nice wheelset (im building a set myself) after that its just the little stuff (get a sturdy fork cause the more you ride, the more capable you find it) like a sadle, and a seat post, and a crankset (the dues is perty damn light, almost as much as an xtr)....think about tires to...even brakes

  4. #4
    Typical Mountain Biker
    Reputation: chucke's Avatar
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    Did you buy it yet?

    I just bought a 575 with the Race Disc Lite Kit for $2749 at www.bicyclebuys.com. This is about the cost that the Enduro's go for, but it is lighter. A smoking deal folks. You can have them upgrade the fork if you want. I had them throw on a Chris King headset for $70 more.
    Dude with a single track mind.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
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    The EC 90 seems pretty fragile for an all mountain build. I have the Monkeylight XC and love it. A bit heavier, but much stronger and some rise to it. The XTR rear cassette only saves about 40 grams and is WAY more expensive. The Mavics are great, but you can get a lighter wheelset custom built by Mike Garcia at oddsandendos for considerably less money. I got my son some wellgo Ti's a while back and they were pretty good ( super light ) for the money, but didn't hold up very well and were hard to adjust to get the same release pressure on both pedals. I ride in Park City....I assume that's similar to the conditions you see on the other side of the divide.

    The following is similar to my build. I have mine down to 25.2 pounds and it's way fun. I weigh about 155.

    Bike Parts: Model:

    Frame Yeti 575 Carbon 5.67lbs

    Fork Fox 32 Talas RLC | Talas Blue 1811.00g (Mine is a Float 130)

    Rear Shock Fox RP3

    Front Brake Avid BB7 | Silver | 160.00 313.00g

    Rear Brake Avid BB7 | Silver | 160.00 313.00g

    Brake Lever Avid | Speed Dial SL Silver 150.00g (Mine are Paul's levers)

    Shifter SRAM X.9 Twist 160.00g (Mine's an XO)

    Crank Shimano XT M760 with BB | | 22-32-44 870.00g

    Bottom Bracket Shimano Integrated to Crank | CrMo

    Front Derailleur Shimano XT M761 Bottom Swing 138.00g

    Cassette Shimano XT M760 | Steel | 11-34 264.00g

    Rear Derailleur SRAM X.9 | L 256.00g (Mine's an XO)

    Chain SRAM PC-971 300.00g

    Pedal Crank Brothers Egg Beater SL | Silver 266.00g (I got the 2Ti)

    Headset Cane Creek S-3 | Black 112.00g (Race face)

    Stem Easton EA50 | Black | 100.00 | 6.00 170.00g (WTB)

    Handlebar Answer ProTaper Carbon | Carbon | Carbon 165.00g (Monkeylight XC)

    Grip ODI Rogue LockOn, gripshift length | Black 52.00g

    Cable Shimano Stainless | 120.00g

    Seatpost Thomson Elite | Black | 410.00 265.00g (Masterpiece)

    Saddle WTB Pure V Race | Black 360.00g (Ti rail seat from performancebike)

    Front Tire Panaracer Fire XC Pro | Black/Red | Kevlar | 2.10 590.00g

    Rear Tire Panaracer Fire XC Pro | Black/Red | Kevlar | 2.10 590.00g

    Front Tube Butyl Presta 1.90-2.30 | 36.00mm 120.00g (lunarlite 99 grams)
    Rear Tube Butyl Presta 1.90-2.30 | 36.00mm 120.00g (lunarlight 99 grams)
    Wheelset Stans NoTUBES ZTR Olympic | Black | 9 | 26.00 1500.00g (Built by Mike Garcia with WTB hubs)

    Skewer Set Salsa Titanium flip-off | Black | Titanium 85.00g

    Front RimTape Velox Cloth Rim Tape 7.50g

    Rear RimTape Velox Cloth Rim Tape 7.50g

    Bike Weight: 25.73lbs

  6. #6
    In my mind, I can do it!
    Reputation: iviguy's Avatar
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    I bought the Enduro and I'll pass on what I would change if I were doing this again.

    frame - 575 with RP23 --------------> add carbon rear (This would be cool)
    fork - Fox Vanilla 130 RL ----------------> Fox Talas 140 (Probably won't save any weight here. The Vanilla is a super plush fork. I got the Revelation and really like it. It's head and shoulders above the Talas IMHO.)
    Headset Cane Creek S-2 -----------> (no change)
    Brakes Avid Juicy 5.0 --------------> Get the Organic Pads.
    Shifters Sram X.9 trigger -------------> (no change)
    Front Der. Shimano XT FD-761 -----------> (no change)
    Rear Der. Sram X.9 -----------------> (no change)
    Crankset Race Face Evolve XC -------------> Race Face Dues XC or Shimano XT (Deus is lighter and gets good reviews.)
    Cassette Sram PG-950 ------------> Keep the PG950. It works well.
    Chain Shimano HG-53 -------------> Keep the stock chain. It works fine.
    Stem Race Face Evolve XC ------------> Stock works fine unless you want the bling of a Thomson.
    Handlebar Race Face Next Carbon -----------> KEEP the Next Carbon. It ROCKS.
    Grips Yeti Hard Core ---------------> Ritchey WCS Foam (comfy)
    Seatpost Race Face Evolve XC ---------------> Thomson Elite (Thomson = bling)
    Saddle WTB Rocket-V cro-mo rail -----------> something Ti railed
    Hubs F-R Yeti ARC/Shimano Deore -----------> Mavic Crossmax XL Disc (Probably a good choice)
    Tires Maxxis Minion 2.35" - ST -------------> Conti Vert Pro UST, Spec Adrenaline (I got the Maxxis CrossMark and LOVE them. )
    --------------------------------------> Wellgo Ti SPD pedals


    Now, here's the dig. After you spec the stuff above and price it out, you will be better off just going with the Race Disk build and maybe swapping out the tires and going with the Carbon rear end. The Race Disk has some nice components.

    I quibbled over the weight for a long time. Now that I have my bike I see that it doesn't make that big an impact. It climbs like a goat and I don't have a problem with speed. I even raced it recently...

    Call Will at Fullcycles.com and he can set you up with an excellent deal.

  7. #7
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    My bike is about 27-ish pounds...

    it depends on how much Stan's I have in it at the time... If I was going to do it again, here is what I'd do:
    frame - 575 with RP23 --------------> add carbon rear
    fork - Fox Vanilla 130 RL ----------------> Revelation or the new Manitous Minutes (3.5lbs, 140mm of travel)
    Headset Cane Creek S-2 -----------> (no change)
    Brakes Avid Juicy 5.0 --------------> mine came with HFX 9 carbons which are fine now that I'm using Kool Stop pads.
    Shifters Sram X.9 trigger -------------> (no change)
    Front Der. Shimano XT FD-761 -----------> (no change)
    Rear Der. Sram X.9 -----------------> X.0 these are fine. I have Shimano on other bikes and I really don't have a preference with SRAM or Shimano (however, I do think that the shimano trigger system is more intuitive than the push push SRAM shifters).
    Crankset Race Face Evolve XC -------------> I have the Dues XC but I'd rather have XT if given an option
    Cassette Sram PG-950 ------------> Shimano XTR 12-34
    Chain Shimano HG-53 -------------> ??
    Stem Race Face Evolve XC ------------> My bike came with the Thomson X4. If given the choice, I'd replace it with the Dues XC (it would purely be a cosmetic change however).
    Handlebar Race Face Next Carbon -----------> The RF Next carbon bar is excellent
    Grips Yeti Hard Core ---------------> I use bar tape
    Seatpost Race Face Evolve XC ---------------> Thomson Elite??
    Saddle WTB Rocket-V cro-mo rail -----------> Flite
    Hubs F-R Yeti ARC/Shimano Deore -----------> go with a custom wheelset (XTR laced to UST rims would rock).
    Tires Maxxis Minion 2.35" - ST -------------> Kenda 2.35 Nevs with Stans (I'm running a UST wheelset)
    --------------------------------------> 959's. You'll want the most durable pedal for your type of riding

  8. #8
    In my mind, I can do it!
    Reputation: iviguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flipnidaho
    --------------------------------------> 959's. You'll want the most durable pedal for your type of riding
    I love my 959's. I got'em new on ebay for $75... Can't be beat!!!

  9. #9
    In my mind, I can do it!
    Reputation: iviguy's Avatar
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    Oh, BTW, I almost forgot the most important upgrade on the 575. You have to get either a Hope or Salsa seatpost collar. That is, unless you just like the seat creeping down on every ride. I'm not sure why Yeti hasn't addressed this issue yet though.

  10. #10
    Nightriding rules SuperModerator
    Reputation: crisillo's Avatar
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    Second that vote of the Hope or Salsa collar, I use a Hope on the 575 and a Salsa on the SS and they are great.

  11. #11
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    I probably wouldn't swap out the stem and post. The Thompson is bling nasty, but it doesn't save much weight and costs a lot. I would replace the S-2 headset on the grounds that it's terrible if you ever see mud.

    Wheels are the key here and I'm not sold on the Mavics for the price. I'd get some Hope XC hubs laced to some light rims, maybe 4.1s.

    If you can get the build down to <27 lbs with light wheels, I think you'll be pretty happy with the climbing performance.

  12. #12
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    As a fellow front range 575 rider, I say you should ditch the tires and wheels. I bought a set of WTB Laser Disc Lite/Velocity VXC's from www.oddsandendos.com and a set of Panaracer Fire XC Pro 2.1's and it made a world of difference. I would also upgrade your fork to something that is adjustable, like the Talas. When I bought mine from Wheatridge, I paid to upgrade to the Talas and am glad I did. While the travel adjustment of the Talas is kind of a pain, being able to lower the front end is great for our trails.
    "If you suck, that means I'm better. The more you suck, the better I am. So. Let me count the ways you suck." - Scribb

  13. #13
    EDR
    Reputation: eatdrinkride's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixelninja
    I paid to upgrade to the Talas and am glad I did. While the travel adjustment of the Talas is kind of a pain, being able to lower the front end is great for our trails.
    I have a Pike w/ Uturn and I agree, adjusting the fork is a pain like the Talas. The newer Talas with only the 3 clicks is nice but nothing beats Zoke ETA for quick travel adjust. But then again, after the first 10 or so rides on my 575 with a 140mm fork, I never have touched the travel adjust agian, on any climbs......

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by eatdrinkride
    But then again, after the first 10 or so rides on my 575 with a 140mm fork, I never have touched the travel adjust agian, on any climbs......
    Yeah, the bike shop dude said that 90% of Talas owners leave it at full extension.

    I'm temped to just get the Float. But, we have lots of 30-60 minute continuous climbs - in fact just about all of the rides around here start with at least a 30 minute grunt.

    That's what makes me think I'd actually dial it down some and maybe not feel like I'm getting raped by the nose of my saddle.

  15. #15
    EDR
    Reputation: eatdrinkride's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashtoomuch
    Yeah, the bike shop dude said that 90% of Talas owners leave it at full extension.

    I'm temped to just get the Float. But, we have lots of 30-60 minute continuous climbs - in fact just about all of the rides around here start with at least a 30 minute grunt.

    That's what makes me think I'd actually dial it down some and maybe not feel like I'm getting raped by the nose of my saddle.
    With those types of extended climbs I think an adjustable fork is a good idea. If you actually use it or not will become a personal preference

    When I say I don't use my adjustments you need to factor in my type of riding...It's major steep techie climbs but short sections overall. My local rides have nothing like a 45 minute grunt uphill.....that's why I don't make use of the travel adjust.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by eatdrinkride
    With those types of extended climbs I think an adjustable fork is a good idea. If you actually use it or not will become a personal preference
    For front range riding, an adjustable fork is a good idea. I don't always dial mine down, usually because I don't think about it until I'm already climbing, but when I do it make climbing a bit easier.
    "If you suck, that means I'm better. The more you suck, the better I am. So. Let me count the ways you suck." - Scribb

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