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  1. #1
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    First generation 575 fork upgrade question(s)

    Bought the bike used (was told by the prev owner it is a early 08 ) last summer. The stanchions have a few scratches on both sides of the 130mm Fox Vanilla fork, though no leakage is apparent and dust/dirt doesn't build up any faster around the seals as the rest of the fork.

    So I either need to

    1. service the fork (new seals and oil)

    2.replace the stanchions plus new seals and oil.

    3. replace the whole fork (since Fox's website doesn't list sevices for anything older than 08 forks.

    If I should replace the fork. What are the pro's and cons going to a 150mm? 32mm to a 36mm? I'd like to maybe try a 27.5" on the front in the future so any recommended forks?

    Thanks in advance for any help

  2. #2
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    Oh, I wasn't clear. I think the bike is a 06-07

  3. #3
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    If it were me, the first question I'd ask is how long do you plan on keeping the bike? Indefinitely? Or put another way: how much money are you willing to put into it?

    Option 1, seals and regular service would keep you rolling at minimum cost, and you said the fork doesn't appear to be leaking, which is the risk with scratched stanchions. This might be a temporary fix though, it probably will start leaking eventually.

    Option 2, new CSU, I'd rule out due to cost. You could replace the whole fork for similar price.

    New fork: the 36 has a higher AC than the 32 or 34, even with travel reduced (a 36 spaced down to 150 is taller than a 32 150), but is stiffer, and has a 20mm axle.
    I have a 140mm revelation on my 575 that is, IMO just about perfect.

  4. #4
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    while I might sell my 07 575 in the next few months, I did buy a rockshox lyrik coil u-turn with 1 1/8" steerer. the adjustability factor is great, while it's a bit on the heavy side. thing about getting an older fork for your current bike is that when you do purchase a new frame you can install that fork with the appropriate headset.
    going 160 20mm on the 575 is a sure bet for fun. you won't regret it whatsoever. only change would be a hub.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joules View Post
    If it were me, the first question I'd ask is how long do you plan on keeping the bike? Indefinitely? Or put another way: how much money are you willing to put into it?
    Right now it is all I can afford, yet other newer bikes felt very mushy for my taste. It will last me another 2to4 years cause i do love it
    Option 1, seals and regular service would keep you rolling at minimum cost, and you said the fork doesn't appear to be leaking, which is the risk with scratched stanchions. This might be a temporary fix though, it probably will start leaking eventually.
    That was my thinking
    Option 2, new CSU, I'd rule out due to cost. You could replace the whole fork for similar price.
    I've been told if I could find one it would run $150 to $200 new. Where I think new fork could cost me $400 to $600. Does that sound about right?
    New fork: the 36 has a higher AC than the 32 or 34, even with travel reduced (a 36 spaced down to 150 is taller than a 32 150), but is stiffer, and has a 20mm axle.
    I have a 140mm revelation on my 575 that is, IMO just about perfect.
    What does "higher AC" mean? I am sorta a new to most of this.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by beerrun View Post
    while I might sell my 07 575 in the next few months, I did buy a rockshox lyrik coil u-turn with 1 1/8" steerer. the adjustability factor is great, while it's a bit on the heavy side. thing about getting an older fork for your current bike is that when you do purchase a new frame you can install that fork with the appropriate headset.
    going 160 20mm on the 575 is a sure bet for fun. you won't regret it whatsoever. only change would be a hub.
    What is a 1 1/8" steerer? Are you referring to the steer tube size? Would that effect the headset bearings? Just trying to get a whole picture of what is involved.

  7. #7
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    AC = Axle to Crown height. basically how you measure front end height. Also affects the BB height. Too tall, and the geo can get too slack. Good for descending, harder for climbing and tight turns.

    1 1/8" = steerer tube size.

    new forks can be 1.5 or tapered 1 1/8 to 1.5 and will not be compatible with your frame.

    i was in same boat, I got a RS sektor RL ... < $400 ... 150mm. I would have got a 34mm stanchioned fork but price and weight stopped me.

    i think the 575 is worth keeping around and i also think the fork is probably the thing you "feel" most of any other component.

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