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  1. #1
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    creaky sb66a frontend

    My 2011 sb66a has developed a really annoying creak in the front end.

    I took the bars and stem off and cleaned and reinstalled. Still creaks also I can just press down on the frame and it creaks. Seems like its resonatting somewhere near the headset but I dont know how to fix it. Or what the cause is.
    2011 Yeti SB-66 XL Fox Float 36, Fox DHX RC4
    Yeti SB-66 Gallery

  2. #2
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    Reputation: Full Trucker's Avatar
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    Do the same thing you did with the stem and bars, but with your headset, and report back. Thanks in advance.
    The older I get, the faster I was.





    Punch it, Chewie.

  3. #3
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    Check the headset as Full Trucker said, but my guess would be the fork crown-steerer-unit (CSU). These can have problems from almost all manufacturers (have seen it on both Fox and Rock Shox). Basically it is a small amount of friction either where the steerer is press fit to the fork crown, or where the stanction is press fit into the crown.

    To test if this is the source of your creak, first stand in front of your bike with the wheel between your legs. Hold the wheel tight with your legs while you torque the handlebars to flex the fork. If this reproduces the noise, next take the fork off the bike and see if you can reproduce the sound this way.

    If the creak really is your CSU, don't fret. First, this is a common problem and while annoying it will not actually hurt the forks performance and is also not an indication that the press fittings will fail. Second, if you are like me and the sound annoys the crap out of you, call up the manufacturer and send it back for warranty repair. I have done this with two forks from Fox and while it is annoying to have to send it back, the total time I was without the fork was 6 days. Both times they replaced the whole CSU (steerer, crown and stanctions) along with all the seals, oil, and even put in new bushings! I think both Fox and RS get a lot of these so even if your fork is past the one year warranty the manufacture will most likely still fix it, just give them a call.

    Hope this helps, let us know when you find the source of the noise. Hunting down clicks and creaks sucks but it gets better with practice and experience.

  4. #4
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    After chasing down a creak in my 66, it turned out to be the fork CSU. I tore the bike apart looking for it. I'll send it back to Fox this winter.

  5. #5
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    Thanks.. holding wheel between legs does not reproduce it.

    Easiest way for me to repro is push my weight straight down on the bars. Or put my hand on top tube behind bars and push down. Or yank up and down on one bar while holding bike down by seat with other hand.

    I dont really have the right tools to remove the headset. I think ill just take it to lbs. Fork is fox float 36 rlc 160
    2011 Yeti SB-66 XL Fox Float 36, Fox DHX RC4
    Yeti SB-66 Gallery

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by KTMDirtFace View Post

    I don't really have the right tools to remove the headset. I think ill just take it to lbs. Fork is fox float 36 rlc 160
    Yes you do. In most cases a 4 or 5mm hex wrench is all you need.

    Try this:
    1) loosen the top cap screw, no need to remove it.
    2) loosen the screws on the side of the stem (2 usually), no need to remove

    You should be able to rotate the fork independent of the stem interface at this point

    3) align the fork so the wheel is straight with the bike frame
    4) grab the front brake hard and gently rock the bike back and forth a bit while also pushing gently downwards on the front end. What you are trying to do is "seat" the fork fully into the head tube. Be sure the forks crown race (just above the CSU at the bottom of the steerer unit) seats fully/smoothly into the lower headset cup. Once you are sure of this then grab that brake and push/jiggle so everything seats fully up towards the stem.
    5) push the stem (and therefore the upper headset pieces) downwards. All we are doing is making sure everything below AND above head tube and headset are a tight fit.
    6) snug up the top cap screw enough to pull every thing together nicely but not to affect the steering
    7) torque the stem bolts

    This should ensure, at least to a large degree, that everything in the headset area is snug. One other thing worth doing would be to remove the top cap and be sure the steerer tube sits ~5mm below the top of the stem (or the top of the spacer if you have any installed). If the steerer tube sits too high in relation to the top of the stem (or spacer) then it can't squeeze everything together as it will bottom out on the steerer tube.

    Good luck. This is much simpler to perform than I've made it sound, lol. I'm betting it's the creaky CSU though....sounds like that's all the rage these days.

  7. #7
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    I've got something similar going on with my sb95a.
    2013 Fox 34 CTD fork.
    Loud creak when landing off ledges or drops, or when hopping up on ledges?

    For me, it turns out it's the uppers on the fork... right where the stanchions meet with the crown. My LBS has seen a few of these recently... it's a Fox warranty issue that's going to take weeks to fix. I don't know what I'm going to do yet.
    Yet another issue with these Fox forks....

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by eatdrinkride View Post
    Yes you do. In most cases a 4 or 5mm hex wrench is all you need.

    Try this:
    1) loosen the top cap screw, no need to remove it.
    2) loosen the screws on the side of the stem (2 usually), no need to remove

    You should be able to rotate the fork independent of the stem interface at this point

    3) align the fork so the wheel is straight with the bike frame
    4) grab the front brake hard and gently rock the bike back and forth a bit while also pushing gently downwards on the front end. What you are trying to do is "seat" the fork fully into the head tube. Be sure the forks crown race (just above the CSU at the bottom of the steerer unit) seats fully/smoothly into the lower headset cup. Once you are sure of this then grab that brake and push/jiggle so everything seats fully up towards the stem.
    5) push the stem (and therefore the upper headset pieces) downwards. All we are doing is making sure everything below AND above head tube and headset are a tight fit.
    6) snug up the top cap screw enough to pull every thing together nicely but not to affect the steering
    7) torque the stem bolts

    This should ensure, at least to a large degree, that everything in the headset area is snug. One other thing worth doing would be to remove the top cap and be sure the steerer tube sits ~5mm below the top of the stem (or the top of the spacer if you have any installed). If the steerer tube sits too high in relation to the top of the stem (or spacer) then it can't squeeze everything together as it will bottom out on the steerer tube.

    Good luck. This is much simpler to perform than I've made it sound, lol. I'm betting it's the creaky CSU though....sounds like that's all the rage these days.
    Oh I had done that I thought you wanted me to remove the headset...whcich I dont have a press or whatver for.

    I will redo the tightness again and report back
    2011 Yeti SB-66 XL Fox Float 36, Fox DHX RC4
    Yeti SB-66 Gallery

  9. #9
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    addATX,

    You can have your LBS deal with it, but it is quicker to work directly through FOX (at the least you get the fork shipped to your front door rather than have to drive to your LBS)

    Call up Fox and explain the issue, they have seen a lot of these so it will not be a biggie for them. When they give you your RA #, ask for options for rush service. I paid $25 and Fox fixed threfork the day they got it, and shipped it out the next day. I took the fork off my bike on a thursday, shipped it out that afternoon, and had the fork back on my bike in time to ride the following wednesday evening. I live in socal (fox factory is in norcal) so shipping times might be a little different depending on where you are, but I thought their turnaround was excellent.

  10. #10
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    Not so sure it is my fork. But yes fox has been great in the past. IM in oregon.

    I just removed stem and did the wiggle deal tightened top screw...I get the creaking and popping every turn of that screw...I mostly got the creaking away but felt it was too tight. Backed it off a tad and tighened it all back up still creaks and pops but not as bad. I really have to force all my weight down on the bars now to get it to creak. So its noT nearly as annoying.

    ILL just ride it if it creaks again ill try squeezing it a bit more with the top bolt.. I have about 5 cane creek interlocking spacers under the stem my guess its them not being fully snugged.


    Thanks for the help
    2011 Yeti SB-66 XL Fox Float 36, Fox DHX RC4
    Yeti SB-66 Gallery

  11. #11
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    To help determine if it's the fork, sit on your top tube, hold the front brake closed tight, put your free hand on one of the stanchion/crown joints and rock the bike until you hear the creak. If that stanchion/crown joint is the culprit you will feel it and the sound will be slightly different since your hand will deaden it a bit. If that side is not a problem try the other side. Chasing down a creak in the fork is fun, it can sound like it's coming from a lot of places, but the chance it is your fork are much higher than the headset.

  12. #12
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    I had the same issue with my 95a. It would happen any time I had a mud ride. My LBS and I narrowed it down to what we believe is dirt getting up into the headtube in between the race and the lower cup of the headset. After a wet/muddy ride, I need to drop the fork and wipe out the headtube from the bottom. The headset itself does not need to be removed. This is becoming a common issue for my LBS. I wonder if there isn't a solid match with the Cane Creek 40 headsets, the Fox forks and the headtube itself. It has been very frustrating. I would like to not worry about it, but now I am hesitant to ride any time I may encounter a ton of mud.
    That creep can roll, man.

  13. #13
    Spring! Spring! Spring!
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    I'm thinking that a section of inner-tube cut and fit over the bottom of the head tube could help.

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