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  1. #1
    Hi!!!
    Reputation: BelaySlave's Avatar
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    New question here. Cable routing of the Gravity Dropper

    How are you folks routing the cable of your Gravity Dropper? Duh I know along the top tube, but I'd like to see pix of how you guys are doing it.

    Mahalo!

    Nick

  2. #2
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    I just run mine along the top tube and then to the side around the head tube. Not pretty, but it works.

  3. #3
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    Reputation: BelaySlave's Avatar
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    I ended up using three zipties last night. Definately not pretty, but it works for now. The real test will be in the next day or two when I can ride.

    What I'm really interested in is how folks used the enclosed cable guides that came with the GD. Since there are no cables running along the top tube in the first place, I wanna see how this looks.

  4. #4
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    I didn't use the holders that it came with, I just zip tied it to the knuckle on the top tube. It ain't pretty but works fine.

    I will post pics tonight if I can remember.
    Moving to Bend? Let me help.
    Derek Faller - www.BendHouseSeller.com

  5. #5
    Hi!!!
    Reputation: BelaySlave's Avatar
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    This is how I have the cable routed and secured. I'm hesistant to trim it though.


  6. #6
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    That is pretty close to how I run mine, except I only have a zip tie near the knuckle. I also am running the seatpost with the magnet toward the back of the bike which shortens up the cable a little.
    Moving to Bend? Let me help.
    Derek Faller - www.BendHouseSeller.com

  7. #7
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    BelaySlave, why don't you get some of those stick-on Problem Solvers cable guides? That way you don't need cable ties going around the entire top-tube, so you don't mess up your paint with the zip ties moving back and forth. I learned the hard way and have scars on my paint to prove it.

    You would probably need a couple, but it might look a bit cleaner too.
    I stopped driving my bike into my garage - I'm now protected with Roof Rack Ranger app for my iPhone.

  8. #8
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    How long is the cable on a Gravity Dropper from the factory anyway?

  9. #9
    Hi!!!
    Reputation: BelaySlave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerx40
    BelaySlave, why don't you get some of those stick-on Problem Solvers cable guides? That way you don't need cable ties going around the entire top-tube, so you don't mess up your paint with the zip ties moving back and forth. I learned the hard way and have scars on my paint to prove it.

    You would probably need a couple, but it might look a bit cleaner too.
    The GD came with two stick on cable guides...I obviously chose to not use 'em at this time. Really don't like the idea of affixing something to the frame, hence the choice of the zipties, but I never thought about the paint getting robbed...gonna have to reconsider this.

  10. #10
    a.k.a. MTBMaven
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    I routed mine along the top tube as well, but I used two Velcro strips to secure it rather than the more permanent zip ties. I move my GD between my two rides.
    I thought of that while riding my bicycle. ~ Albert Einstein on the theory of relativity

  11. #11
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    This zip tie method might be less likely to rub paint, since it's not actually capturing the cable between the zip tie and the frame:

    Bling Cable Tie Method

  12. #12
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    Dumb question of the morning.....

    So let's say I want to throw the Yeti on the repair stand. In the past when I had my old seatpost, I'd just clamp it by the seatpost. Well now I can't clamp the seatpost cuz of the GD. Obviously I can't clamp it on the seat tube either. So what do I do??

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by BelaySlave
    Dumb question of the morning.....

    So let's say I want to throw the Yeti on the repair stand. In the past when I had my old seatpost, I'd just clamp it by the seatpost. Well now I can't clamp the seatpost cuz of the GD. Obviously I can't clamp it on the seat tube either. So what do I do??
    Use an old seatpost when putting the bike in the stand.

  14. #14
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    Front- vs. Rear-facing unit

    Quote Originally Posted by CaptainCogset
    I also am running the seatpost with the magnet toward the back of the bike which shortens up the cable a little.
    I have the forward-facing unit on AS-X, which I got thinking it would collect less mud (and on advice from GD that this shouldn't be a problem). I run it completely slid in, so that to have the lowest seat possible for jumps. Unfortunately, this is causing the cable to bend quite sharply against the top tube. It still appears to work fine {*} but makes me worried that it may affect smoothness and perhaps will shorten cable life. Any thoughts?

    {*} BTW, on a recent ride my GD developed a bad habit of getting stuck in the extended position, i.e., when the lever was depressed, there was not familiar 'click' -- I had to simultaneously pull the seat up with my hand just a wee bit to get it released (which of course defeats the purpose of this gizmo). Has anyone had similar experience? If so, what's the remedy?

    Cheers,
    -Tomasz

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