not getting the love
i have gone from the last 6 years on 29ers to a Yeti 5A and it has been a steep relearning curve.
I am 6.5 and 100kgs on a XL frame with 130mm floats and I cant seem to get used to the slack head angle. i cant drop the forks as i get helps of pedal strikes as it is. It is simply the fact that due to my size (big bloke size) I need to run a longer stem and riser bars to get the right position. This position works great for XC bike and 29ers but this yeti strikes me as a real trail bike. Might try a short stem and really wide bars (similar reach- but improve leverage) - but this will hamper climbing.
I just havent got the cockpit sorted - perhaps over thinking it and because i am a big bloke = need to make do.
anyone else found the relaxed angles on the 5 requires different setup?
i only have the one bike so dont want to limit its ability or all round goodness.
@ 130mm fork you'll probably be at 67.5 or so? You may get used to it quicker than you think. How many miles have you put in?
What is your lower cup on your headset? I think it needs to be EC44/40, but you might be able to find a lower cup with the shortest stack possible. Other than that, besides going to a 120mm (which you don't want to do because of pedal strikes) not sure what you can do.
I hated it at first but we have been getting along alot better.
Originally Posted by ddprocter
probably around 600 kms or 10 hours a week for 4 months
it is my one bike so it has been ridden at bike parks, all mountain stuff and prodominately fast groomed XC trails. It is perfect for the rough stuff and more than capable but lacks something in the XC general riding. perhaps i could install an angle headset and steepen the angle a touch.
Perhaps it is not the right bike for me or it is such a leap from 29ers
headtube for ASR-5 is i.d 34mm on top headtube and i.d 49.6mm on low headtube , mine is 2012 asr-5
Originally Posted by ddprocter
So I guess a working angleset would be this Works EC34/EC49 (coincidentally, it says for yeti asr), with 1.0 degree adjustment. That's pretty steep though (you'd go from 67.5 to 68.5). Although the lower stack height is a high 16mm, which offsets some of that, so it could work for you.
Works Components - 1 0 Degree EC34 EC49 Tapered Steerer Tube Headset e g Yeti ASR
johnd663 -- I'm curious: why did you switch from 29 to 26?
Originally Posted by jon123
I was broke due to a long period of unemployment and then low wage job. Had to sell off all my bikes - a beautiful Ti Blacksheep, Turner Sultan with Enve/King and XTR and had one bike left - a Singular hardtail SS - very blinged out. This bike was great but i wanted more of an alrounder - I wanted suspension. Once i sold the Swift I only had $2.5 grand and the options for a good XL 29er FS in this country for 2 1/2 grand was next to impossible. I had been alittle bored with the FS 29er I had owned and found they were dull, cumbersome and had taken much of the fun out of my riding - they just plow over everything. Many of the newer 29ers have addressed many of the issues mentioned - Yeti, Santa Cruz, Transition, Rocky Mountain,Spec and Trek - but the cost of entry is currently too high.
So what is the best alrounder I could get for 2.5 grand? Found a secondhand Yeti 5 for 2.75 grand - perfect.
At 6.4 and 100 kgs, I believe a 29er would suit me better for fit, but there is 5 pounds difference between my 5 and 29er Sultan and the 5 is more fun on the trail.
I now have a 29er SS in the stable and would like to add a FS 29er when funds allow but so happy to be able to get out on the 5 and enjoy my riding again.
26ers arent dead - no way - get the best bike you can afford regardless of wheelsize. Yeti have always been one of the best.
I would add that a 4 inch bike with steeper HA would have been a better alrounder for the trails I ride - like a Flux or ASR-C but there arent too many XLs floating around these parts.
will try dropping the forks from 130 - 120mm for starters and see how i go.
Originally Posted by ddprocter
I bought a set of Hope Pro Evo 2 laced to Flow ex rims for my 5 and some new rubber to go along with them Schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.35 front and Racing Ralph 2.25 rear. Well I finally got a chance to ride today and the difference is night and day. Grip for days and the bike felt amazing in the corners, very confidence inspired although i did have a few "oh ****" moments because I was able to carry so much more speed.
I must say that I was kinda thinking that I may have made a mistake in going with the flow ex over the arch ex do to the weight of the flow but that was put to rest this afternoon. The flows spin up and accelerate super quick out of corners. I'm really not sure what to attribute it to... stiffness, the wider rim profile, new rubber or the fact that this is my first tubeless setup. < I know I'm super late to the party. Either way I just thought I would share my stoke!
Recently Returned Rider
New to the Club
Just bought my first Yeti. Took it out on the trail for the first time this past week. My god is this thing fast and nimble. Definitely lives up to the comments/reviews.
Last edited by Gladden; 01-31-2013 at 06:42 PM.
Nice! What color is that? I don't see a "c" so I'm assuming it's an aluminum but that doesn't look like black ano.
And what did you build it up with? Stock Yeti build or custom?
Recently Returned Rider
Thanks man. It's a gloss black in aluminum. This scheme:
All stock for now. Any suggestions on upgrades from other ASR riders would be welcomed.
I'm planing on buying the ASR-5 alloy frame but have few concerns:
1) How is the carbon rear triangle for the 2012 models? Last time I was reading about this bike (in 2011), they had faulty rear triangle. Has that been addressed for the current model?
2) I know this bike is stiff but is there brake jacking on this? Does the rearend starts hopping all over the place once brake is applied?
3) The 2012 models uses GXP BB now, right? On the pictures I've seen online, the BB frame is threaded.
4) Do any of you guys use this bike for longer rides? Is it comfortable like the reviews for blur xc/trc? They mentioned the blur xc/trc are the weapon of choice for longer rides. I'm hoping that I can use this bike for long rides as well. None of my bikes can do that with the exception of my Nickel.
Here are the Full Suspension bikes I have owned since 2010:
2008 Blur LT
2009 Scott Genius
2011 Santa Cruz Nickel
2012 Specialized Stumpy Expert Carbon Evo
Of all the bikes, the Nickel was my favorite. This is why I'm here. I like the single pivot, weight, low BB, steep SA, slack HA & the price on the ASR-5.
Please advise. Thanks!
1) I have a 2011 ASR5C, which may or may not be the same as the 2012 carbon rear, I'm not sure. The chainstays have alloy reinforcement inside. I've got > 500 miles on medium-aggressive Bay Area trails. No probs. I don't really jump this bike too much, but I don't avoid modest drops either. Haven't heard anyone report any issues in the Yeti forum recently.
2) Brake Jack - There's a tad more than my Pivot Firebird (DW link) but not bad. I don't feel its an issue. It will be noticeable compared to your stumpy but you'll probly forget about it after a few rides. Its just going to be 'typical' jack for a low-pivot single-pivot.
3) edited: whoops, gxp cranks are not compatible with their bb30 version, sorry! but remaining advice still stands: My 2011 is a regular 73mm threaded, and I use a Sram XX GXP crank with the standard threaded GXP BB. Yeti Cycles / Home says its still 73mm shell as of the '13 model as well.
4) Long rides: This bike is sort of an F1 racer who's suspension stays on the stiff side then wakes up in the gnar, especially if you use pro-pedal or CTD. They have tuned the RP23 really well on this bike so that it resists pedal bob in the first inch of travel, then livens up after that.
So it'll be a mixed bag - it probably won't feel as plush as your evo in technical climbing and technical flats, but, it could make up for it by being light and minimizing pedal bob. Hard to say till you ride one. On this front, you could consider a 150mm fork too. I have a talas 130-150 which I think is perfect for this bike.
Hope that helps!
Last edited by Procter; 02-11-2013 at 09:13 PM.
Little help with ASR5 sizing, please. I normally ride mediums and I'm currently on a MotoLite. The medium asr5 seems a bit longer than what I'd normally ride. Im 5'8 with a 32" inseam so a little bit longer in the legs than most but only by a tad. I prefer not to have my seatpost well above my bars and a Med frame generally helps with this. However, the Small frames have almost the same seat tube length so I'm I. Between sizes and undecided.
Can anyone help me make my decision? Thanks.
Carbon rear triangle. Anyone having issues with chain slap on the underside of the rear triangle? Yeti did not offer protection hear as they did on chainstay. Also, why did they leave outer, top corner of chainstay exposed? getting some chain marks there also. Chain is not too long, i only have two links past full tension in highest gears. Run a 2x10 XT. Hits the underside in small ring up front and outer corner in big ring. Currenty having to use an old tube for chainstay protection but it would not reach the underside slap area. Guess I'll just have to resort to installing the silicone tape over and over. Bummer design flaw. Realy bummed me out when noticed all the marks after a couple rides. Other than that, bike is great.
GORGEOUS bike Smokehouse! Love love love the Turquoise!
I think you're dead on for a medium. I'm 5' 6" with a 29" inseam and the Small is absolutely perfect. In fact, the cockpit was a bit tighter than I like with a 50mm stem so I'll probably go up to 90mm.
Originally Posted by mnigro
At your height and inseam, I think you'd be a perfect fit on the Medium.
Not sure where exactly you're referring to - I got some scrapes where the red arrow is, so I covered this with a piece of stick-on frame guard. I'm not sure whether this was chain slap or hitting it on roots and rocks - chain can't really get up there very easily unless it comes off. But, frame guard fixed it.
Originally Posted by BMC FS
Not sure what you mean here either, but, on all my bikes, I've always had chips and chain slap all around where the green arrows are, so I wrap both the chainstay and the seatstay with extra handlebar tape or cut an inner tube down the middle and use it for wrap.
Also, why did they leave outer, top corner of chainstay exposed? getting some chain marks there also.
Thank you my man. Funny you use that particular word. The first day that i rode the Yeti, i was picking the bike up into the bed of the truck and a couple of guys rode by and they hit the brakes and one of the guys said, "GOD, that is a gorgeous bike". Made that first ride even better!
Originally Posted by KevinGT
Yeti ASR-5 Custom Build
My LBS was cool enough to let me build this bike from the ground up using their tools (hence the picture overload, sorry). It was a huge learning experience and a lot of fun, hope you guys like it!
Frame: Yeti ASR 5 Alloy w/ Fox CTD Kashima Shock
Fork: Fox Float F.I.T. RLC Kashima w/ custom slikgraphic yeti decals
Wheels: Mavic Crossmax SX Wheels
Brakes: Shimano Saint 180mm/180mm
Crank: Shimano Saint
Shifter: Shimano Saint
Derailleur: Shimano Saint
Pedals: Shimano XTR trail SPDs
Handlebar: Raceface sixc DH cut to 30 inches
Stem: Raceface Atlas (50mm)
Saddle: WTB Yeti rocket
Seat Clamp: Yeti
Grips: ODI Yeti addition
Tires: Schwalbe Nobby Nic
Still planning to add a Fox d.o.s.s. dropper post but it wasn't in the initial build budget so it'll have to wait for a few more paydays.
Last edited by Jasondenney; 02-18-2013 at 10:47 AM.
Last edited by Jasondenney; 02-18-2013 at 08:02 AM.
Reason: cant figure out how to delete this?..
[QUOTE=BMC FS;10164573]Carbon rear triangle. Anyone having issues with chain slap on the underside of the rear triangle?
Have you tried any of the new Shimano Deralleurs with their shadow technology? It has worked well for me and limits most chain slap.
Last edited by Jasondenney; 02-18-2013 at 07:57 AM.