I still look at my 110 a little weird because of logo's were positioned. I sorta wished the "110" was on one side, and the "cane creek' was on the other. But ya know it's don't effect the riding, so zoom zoom!
Does anyone have issues with pedal strikes on a 130mm fork? I have enough issues at 140- I am not sure I can deal with more if I drop the fork down, but I'm also considering the fox air can spacers for the rear shock. I live in central texas and ride the greenbelt in austin frequently.
I positioned mine with the 110 on the drive side- and the cane creek logo on the NDS. yes, I'm that anal. :)
I have a 120mm fork and so far so good. I'm came from a hard tail and this bike feels super high from my previous ride.
Update, new Novatech hubs and Spank wheels
Originally Posted by jpvm
Droptop, I do get pedal strikes on occasion but it's get much better over time. I also have an El Guapo which for a 150mm bike is way, way low BB so I was used to timing pedal strokes before hopping on the Yeti.
In really deep rutted and narrow washed out sections it's almost a guarantee that I'll drag a pedal.
I live in a very rocky area with lots of ledges, guess its time to give up my eggbeaters. Dropping the fork down to 130 soon!
droptop, I run my Revelation at 140mm but I have a straight 1 1/8 steer so my headset is a zero stack which brings it ~10mm lower, more in line with a 130mm fork and external headset. Most people wouldn't think that 10mm a-c height difference wouldn't be noticed but I can definitely tell a difference in the climbs. I had a Motolite and a 10mm change in A-C was very noticeable. Same holds true on this bike.
If you can control the front end on the climbs, stick with the 140mm fork. Pedal strikes on this bike take about a month to get used to. Big, fat tires help too. When I run 2.4 Conti MK2's it makes a difference in pedal strikes. Going to put a 2.4 TK on the front soon.
It would be a perfect bike for an updated rear triangle to run 650b.
Soooo... I've got the itch to put a new shock on my ASR-5. I'm running a FOX CTD, and it's the performance series. Just curious if anyone has had good or bad experiences to share. I'm thinking of the new 2014 Vivid Air, but not sure at all. Let's hear it
I put on a Rock Shox Monarch RC3+, medium tune, medium rebound with the high volume air can.
I'm running it with 30% sag. Easy to get full travel yet it doesn't wallow.
Big difference in the medium and especially large hits. On large hits and/or when it uses full travel the bike feels amazingly plush.
The small bump compliance still isn't great, though. Not sure if there's much difference there over the standard shock.
I think it probably has more to do with the single pivot and the what the bike was designed to be about -- the ASR 5C just wasn't designed to be plush there.
I was on an Ibis HD and what a difference there. Amazing bike.
Originally Posted by mnigro
I ride the same trails, and Eggbeaters are notorious for not holding up around here. There's even a recent thread on Bikemojo on the subject. Curious to hear your impressions from dropping 140 to 130.
Originally Posted by droptop
Fork should be back early this week, and I'm tossing in the small air can spacer for the rear shock after talking to yeti. I was having issues keeping the front down on short steep ups in technical terrain, and talked to a few guys at University Cyclery who actually prefer the bike as a "race bike" at 120mm.
Hopefully I can get a ride in before it gets "cold" so i can give it a good shakedown run at "normal" temperatures.
I am also looking into new wheels- my Pacenti's just weren't meant to handle central Texas rocks. Probably will go with the flow, I like my tires wide (2.25R and 2.4F). Might bump it down to 2.25F and 2.1R for XC racing.
I've run a FOX Float 130 on my 5 as well as a Revelation WC 130-150. My preference is for the Revelation. I love the way the bike handles with the front set at 130, but it's nice to have the 150 option for the super steep rocky downhills. I read the review on Pinkbike of the ASR-5 where they put on a fixed-travel 150 fork on the thing, and I really can't imagine running the bike at 150 full time. Not really the way the bike was meant to be used.
As for the shock, I've always seen the low volume air sleeve being used on the 5. I think the bike's leverage ratio works much better if the shock ramps up at the end. Go with the Arches, they should be plenty for your XC and AM rides, the Flows might be overkill (unless you're a clyde...)
Just did my first DU bushing on mine, totally shot after only 5 months of riding 1-2 times per week... curious to hear of others' experiences. I used to go for a couple of years between DU's on my Stumpy FSR, and the wear seemed very gradual... the FSR is a 4 bar Horst link though, so I'm sure there will be some differences in wear characteristics.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using Tapatalk
Hmm. My bike is actually in the stand as I type this. Blew out my knee and figured its a good time to convert the rear to they axle. While it's up I will take a look at my DU and let you know if it needs to be changed. Which bushing are you referring to, top or bottom?
Also, I just got my shimano slx TA. It has a small section in it just near the QR lever that's about the diameter of a traditional QR skewer. I find this odd that Shimano designed it that way. Maybe it pulls into the QR mechanism when tightened and locked? But, if we are trying to add stiffness by going TA, doesn't make sense to have such a skinny piece of axle as part of the system. Just my .02. Let you guys know if I can feel the difference in the trail... in a few weeks. Lol
Bottom; if it's worn, you'll be able to tell just by lifting on the seat, you'll feel/hear the freeplay. Once it got loose on mine, it got worse fast, unlike my FSR. The DU's are only $1 at Price point, so I picked up a few with my last order, but it's still a pain to have to mess with it as a frequent job. Probably $20-30 labor if you have a shop do it.
Originally Posted by mnigro
Ok. Just wanted to check which one. The bottom one would make more sense because it gets all of the rotation. Comparing it to an FSR design, this single pivot gets a Ton more rotation. Maybe best to swap it out with a needle bearing from Enduro. I have a DU press so it's not a huge job to push it out and press in a new one. If you don't have the tool, maybe a good time to get one.
Gotdurt, I just checked and I've got a bit of play in my lower DU too. I have a couple in the parts bin so will take care of it this weekend. I can't ride now so I'm not in a rush.
I agree with you though, that DU wore out fast as hell. When I run out of them I may switch to the needle bearing. I can't remember the post that someone made but if I recall, the new spacers that Fox uses may be able to be used with the needle bearing from Enduro. I'll dig into it and see. Let you know.
Hey folks! Sharing with you my wifey's bike. Bought the frame and built it up for her using many of the components in my "spare parts bin"! Medium ASR5c frame with Fox Float 32 (set at 140mm), XO draivetrain, RaceFace Deus crank and handlebar, SunRingle Charger wheels.
She's loving this bike. Its light, fast and pretty!
Hmmmm... I wouldn't mind having a spare parts bin with that kind of stuff laying around in it!
I was thinking the exact same thing. "Spare bin"??? NICE
Originally Posted by max_lombardy
Originally Posted by max_lombardy
LOL.. yeah but lots of it are old parts such as from my 06' Giant Trance! This bike is on a 9 speed drivetrain. Other newer parts are take-offs from my 575. Although, she did buy herself the gold stuff to add on.
Originally Posted by mnigro
OK, at the suggestion of Gotdurt I checked the DU bushing on my 5 today. Sure enough, it's shot. I needed to do some other work on the bike anyway so figured I'd tackle this too. I have the DU bushing remover and press tool so it is usually a quick job.
Still, I was surprised that it needed to be replaced already. As I went to pull the shock my lower shock pin is completely seized. The bolt/pin on the drive side will sin but it is "locked" into the reducer within the dog bone. I have tried tapping it out from the NDS using the NDS male bolt with it threaded part way in. No luck. When I look in there it has visible rust which is very concerning as this is only a 6 month old frame.
Just to be sure there is nothing that I have not tried, can anyone lend me some advice as to how to get it out?
Update: finally broke the bolt free. Damn was it stuck tight. Took about a can of lube to get it tapped out. I really hate tapping so hard around carbon but it had to be done.
It wasn't seized within the reducers. It was the inner bearing race that was the culprit. Not sure whAt the deal is but the bearings that are pressed into the dogbone have a super tight fit on those pivot bolts.
Anyway, figured I'd share.
Anyone know the oreginal ASR5 rear shock FOX PR23 (200mm X 50mm) can switch to the Cane Creek double barrel coil shock ( 200mm X 55mm) ? Thanks !
Call them. I called today and got Dave on the phone right away. This is a major reason why I support this company.
Originally Posted by LLP
I wrote a message to the Yeti FB page. Then the reply message :Not sure exactly on how the other brands shocks will work on the bike. If it fits and has the same stroke and eye to eye it should work fine. For more detailed questions please email firstname.lastname@example.org and we can get you more detailed information.
Anyway, I get a second hand CCDB from ebay ! Waiting for it arrive and the test ride !!
In wondering about the ccdb air myself. I just ordered the air can spacers, talked to yeti and the guy said they all run the smallest spacer on theirs. Going to give that a shot, next step is a piggyback or a ccdb air.
Also, I am giving up on Pacenti rims for Austin greenbelt riding. Second rear rim never saw less than 27 psi, and still has a major dent, and now some uneven spoke tension after an incident that any wheel would need attention to afterwards. Stan's flows ex are on order- I like the width, and am not too worried about the weight.
I guess I can say goodbye to my 25 lb bike, until I live in an area where I trust myself with some carbon hoops!
My Oozey are ok rims. They don't hold up as well as my Flows but no dents or dings. They need to be trued but they're about 2 seasons in so that is acceptable. Pretty light too.
if i could get 2 years out of rims id be happy! I usually get a race season out of lightweight wheels(blunt SL) or a year or so out of something heavier- last set i sold was wtb laserdisc trail (580g in 29er). Wondering where that line between durability and weight actually lies with me.
One friend is telling me arches- but I'm not sure I want to give up any width. I look at 2.1 and 2.2" tires as narrow, and like my volume. Not sure I'm ready to try the fat rims at 33+mm either that square off the tread- I lean the bike too far while turning and don't want it to loose its "playfulness".
Hey all, wanted to jump in here and post my (new to me) Yeti 2012 ASR 5. Can't wait to ride it. It should arrive this week
2012 Yeti ASR 5 - Imgur
Frame Material: Aluminum
Fork: Fox Float 32
Rear Shock: Fox Float RP23
Effective Top Tube: 622mm
Seat Tube: 510mm (C-T)
Seat Tube Angle: 71º
Head Tube: 130mm
Head Tube Angle: 67º
Standover Height: 749mm
Weight: 27 lbs 12 oz
Headset: Cane Creek
Front Derailleur: Sram X7
Rear Derailleur: Sram X9
Brakes: Avid Elixr 5
Shifters: Sram X7
Crankset: Sram X7, 44/32/22t, 175mm
Cassette: Sram PG1050, 10sp, 11-36t
Chain: Sram PC 1051
Handlebar: Truvativ Stylo Race - 685mm wide
Stem: Truvativ Stylo - 90mm - 31.8mm - 5º
Seatpost: Truvativ Stylo - 30.9mm
Saddle: WTB Rocket V
Wheelset: DT Swiss M1900 - 26"
Rear Spacing: 135mm
Front Tire: Specialized The Captain - 26x2.2
Rear Tire: Specialized The Captain - 26x2.0
First ride on my new ASR5
I'm too out of shape right now to run it through its paces, but its super light and responsive so far.
2012 AS-R 5 Alloy, size large
2014 RS Revelation @ 120mm
Syntace 60mm stem
Easton ex70 carbon handlebar and seatpost
Joystick Emulator saddle
Ergon GA Evo grips
Zee shifter and derailleur
Raceface Narrow Wide 32t chain ring
e.13 xcx crank
Shimano XT cassette
Magura MT6 brakes (180mm front, 160mm rear)
American Classic Terrain Wheelset
Front tire: Specialized Purgatory UST
Rear tire: Specialized Captain Control UST
Now this thread is back up might as well add an update. Did a 1x10 conversion, needle bearings, custom shock tune and lots of other stuff to bike recently. Rides amazing and is now 24lbs with a dropper and big tires!
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Rockshox Pike 150mm
Renthal Fatbar Lite
Duo 50mm stem
Shimano SLX brakes 180/160
SRAM X9 Type II 1x10 with 36t Wolf Tooth ring
EA70 XCT wheelset
Hans Dampf front/Rock Razor rear tires
Thompson dropper post
Selle Italia saddle
Water bottle cage
XTR trail pedals
26.5 lbs ready to ride... I think. I weighed it with an old fishing scale.
How's that Rock Razor? 36T ring up front is nuts on 1x10. I'm running a 30T and struggle with some climbs. Good looking bike and build.
I like the Rock Razor. When the bike is vertical, it's like a high-volume Racing Ralph. When leaned over, It corners really well. The knobs look like a Magic Mary's. My trails are dry and hard packed though. It replaced a Psycho Genius. Rolls maybe a bit faster, but higher cornering traction.
I couldn't go any lower than 34t or I would spin out on the downhills. I have to pedal a little slow on some steep uphills, but still manage to pass people. I bet you can push a bigger ring than you think!
I had a 36t on for several months, but recently switched to a 32t wolfstooth. The slow technical climbs were getting me! Now I can clear a lot more, and I have to confidence knowing I won't have to mash and spin out on skree
Just a suggestion.....have you tried running the dropper post cable in the spot for the upper shock mount?
I tried that but was getting slight contact as the shock compressed and moved. Were you able to get that to work without contact?
Originally Posted by Doba
That's how I have it routed on my 7. I'm running 1x10 and use the front derailleur cable guide to zip tie my dropper cable. I haven't had issues with it contacting the shock.
Headset search help needed please.
I have a brand new 2011 ASR5c frame and a 2007 RockShox Reba Race (straight 1 1/8 in.) steerer and I'm stuck with the headset choice. I already ordered a wrong FSA headset (I figured the term "reducer" would mean a 1.5 in. lower cup and an 1 1/8 in. upper cup but both cups were 1.5 so that doesn't fit). Anyone have any idea what the right headset model could be with an older fork and that frame? Cane Creek's website was of no help for me, got stuck on the stem clamp diameter. Thanks.
For education on this Cane Creek has a great informational document here:
The top of your head tube is 34mm, and a 1 1/8th steerer is 28.6 mm, so you need an EC34/28.6 top cup, which is the correct way to state it according to the SHIS, but of course it might also be referred to as a EC34mm / 1 1/8th. here are some examples:
Cane Creek 10 Ext. Cup Top Black 1-1 8" - Headsets Threadless - Tops - Bottoms
Amazon.com : Cane Creek 110-Series Traditional Top for 34mm Head Tube 1-1/8" Stem Clamp Diameter Silver : Bike Headsets And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors
Cane Creek 110 External Headset Cup Top > Components > Headsets and Spacers > Headsets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
The bottom of your head tube is 49 mm. Now this is where it gets interesting: The actual diameter of the crown race seat on a 1 1/8th steerer tube is not 28.6mm, its a little wider at 30mm. This is so that crown race easily slides down the steerer tube and correctly wedges at the bottom.
So for your lower cup you are looking for a EC49 / 30, or, a ZS49 / 30. You have the option of a zero stack lower cup because of the fact that your steerer is 1 1/8th, which allows extra room that is not possible with a 1.5" tapered head tube. The ZS49 will sit higher up in the bottom of the head tube, lowering your front end by about 6-8mm, steepening your head angle slightly from the yeti published number. This is because Yeti's published head angle number I believe assumes a 140mm fork, with a full tapered 1.5 head tube, which requires a EC49/ 39 lower cup, which sits lower than the ZS49 lower cup. Your Reba Race is probably on the low end of the recommended travel for the ASR5, right? Adding the Zs lower cup on top of that will give you a reeeeealy steep head angle, so I recommend the EC49 / 30 lower cup.
Example lower cups:
Cane Creek 110.EC49/30 Headset Bottom, Conversion in Tree Fort Bikes Headsets (cat98)
Cane Creek 110 Conversion EC49/30 Bottom Silver
Amazon.com : Cane Creek 40-Series Traditional Conversion Bottom for 49mm Head Tube : Bottom Bike Brackets And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors
Although note on the this amazon listing the product title (which says 49mm) differs from the product description (which says 44mm). Amazon's product data from its 3rd party sellers can be crap sometimes, you should probably chat with CS to confirm its 49mm before buying.
You might be able to find a single top/bottom headset which has the dimensions above, but these examples above should be helpful in evaluating whether that headset will actually fit. I was in the same situation as you and ended up buying the lower cup and the upper cup separately because I could not find it as a single headset in the color I wanted (Silver).
I personally recommend getting the same make and model lower cup and higher cup, I have never seen anyone mix and match but I am not the expert on this.
Hope that helps.
Clamp diameter is 28.6, crown race is 30.0. The headset diameter is ec34 and ec49 with the 30mm crown race
Thanks you both very much. You've probably saved me another week of headaches ordering the wrong parts.
Thought I'd share my wife's ASR5c.
Took the Fox Float fork off my 575, dropped the travel to 140mm and installed it on her bike. Also made it a 1x10 for more simplicity - 30T front NW ring with 11-36 cassette. She's loving this set up. Not sure the weight tho; I'm guessing 25lbs.
BTW: With this bike, she says that there is no need to get a 650b! "Its a fast, super fun and very versatile bike the way it is!"