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  1. #251
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    Finally! Just took my first real ride on it and wanted to get it dirty before posting some pics. Traditional build but very close to my dream bike. I just couldn't mentally justify the extra $1300 for the carbon.







    Frame: Yeti ASR-5 alloy, black ano, small
    Fork: Fox Racing 32 Float FIT 120 RLC
    Wheels: Stan's ZTR Crest with Hope EVO Pro 2 hubs
    Tires: Schwalbe Nobby Nic, 2.25 Snakeskin (tubeless)
    Drivetrain: Shimano XT 786 2x10
    Brakes: Shimano XT w/Ice-Tech
    Headset: Chris King
    Stem: Thomson X4 0x80
    Bar: RaceFace Next SL riser
    Grips: ODI Yeti Lock-on
    Seatpost: Thomson Elite with Thomson binder
    Saddle: WTB Volt Team Ti
    Pedals: Eggbeater 3

    Total weight: 26.00 lbs.

    2 miles into my first ride, I hit a deep sandy spot that, last week, was hardpack, and washed the front wheel out. Left shoulder hit a tree and right shin hit the pedal. I think that that was my Yeti's way of saying "Welcome to The Tribe. Ride better."
    Last edited by KevinGT; 04-13-2013 at 12:54 PM.

  2. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_lombardy View Post
    Dang Ruscle that's a crazy build! Very non-traditional!!! Cool
    Cheers, I appreciate your comments. I think I want to be buried with this bike!!

    Only thing I would want to change is the colour to the Yeti turquoise.

  3. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinGT View Post

    2 miles into my first ride, I hit a deep sandy spot that, last week, was hardpack, and washed the front wheel out. Left shoulder hit a tree and right shin hit the pedal. I think that that was my Yeti's way of saying "Welcome to The Tribe. Ride better."
    Great looking ride! You'll love it.

  4. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinGT View Post
    Finally! Just took my first real ride on it and wanted to get it dirty before posting some pics.
    Looks great! I hope you are as happy with yours as I am with mine. I used mine on 5 rides so far and after each one I like it even more.

  5. #255
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    For those running a 140mm fork, are you using an internal bottom cup or external. And, is the front wheel wandering on the climbs?

    I have my Revelation set at 130mm now and was thinking about bumping it up to 140mm as the bike feels a tad steep for my taste.

    It isn't a huge PITA to adjust travel but figured I'd ask others before putting in the 1/2 hour at the bike stand. I purposely went with the internal bottom cup to help keep the front planted on climbs. Any help is appreciated.

    Also, how much sag are you guys running? What is your rtr weight and do you have any issues blowing thru the mid stroke and bottoming out? I'm still looking for the sweet spot with this shock and getting somewhat frustrated. Maybe I just need to stop treating the bike like its a 160mm beast???

  6. #256
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    I run an external bottom cup, the front wanders a little on climbs but I'm also running a fair few spacers under the stem.

    I struggled with the shock so ended swapping it out for a BOS Vip'R shock which works much better at supporting the bike and not blowing through the travel, or sinking into the travel when climbing.

  7. #257
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    Thanks Ruscle. I'm going to drop the lowers and bump travel to 140mm this weekend and give her a go.

    As for the rear shock setup, how much do you weigh? I'm about 205 with gear and even when running 10mm sag I get deep into the travel on average stuff. I've bottomed out hard a few times running in the chunky stuff without being picky about my line. Like I said , maybe I need to stop riding this like its my El Guapo and tone it down some.

  8. #258
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    Question for those that bought ASR-5 frames to be built: did they come with any drop-outs at all, or did you have to order them separately? I just ordered a 2012 frame, but I can't find any info clarifying this, and I'd rather not wait until the frame arrives to find out (I want to build it, pronto).
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  9. #259
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    Yep, standard dropouts included. If you want TA you'll need to order those.

  10. #260
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    Mine came with 9mm. Had to buy kit to upgrade to 142 x 12. I think that's the case with all ASR5s.

  11. #261
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    Thanks, std 135x10 is perfect, that's what all my wheels are right now.
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  12. #262
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    So, the EC34/ZS49 headsets work? pairing this with the x-fusion slant fork coming out soon, and was hoping to counteract some of the slightly taller a-c with a lower stack headset.

    also, just took delivery of my 2012 yeti asr-5a, in turquoise. looking forward to ordering the rest of the parts kit and riding. first race on it is in may! coming from ~4 years of 29ers, switched to a 26" 140mm plus bike a year ago and don't want to go back to the big wheels!

  13. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by grymes View Post
    Not the best photo, but here is my ASR5c.



    Parts include:
    Fork - Fox F-Series 120
    Rear Shock - Fox Float RP23
    Saddle - Chromag Moon
    Seat Post - RockShox Reverb
    Headset - Cane Creek XX II
    Wheels - Easton Havon AL
    Brakes - Hope Tech M4 (front), X2 (rear)
    Cranks - Truvativ XX
    Shifters - Sram XO
    Rear Derailleur - Sram XO
    Front Derailleur - Sram XO
    Rear Cassette - Sram XO
    Handlebar - Raceface SixC
    Stem - Thompson
    how do you like the m4/x2 combo? im thinking about m4 f/r, only because i like things to match (same pads f/r). im 185 lbs and run 180 rotors.

  14. #264
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    I'm around 195 with all kit on. I don't hold back when riding this bike as it seems to be able to handle quite a lot. I don't rate the Fox shocks, they seem to be designed to be run with the pro pedal on all the time which I never like to use. The Boost valve is meant to stop the mid stroke wallow but the Boost valve only works when you have the pro pedal on.

  15. #265
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    droptop, the I'm 99.9% sure that the ZS49 lower cups can only be run with a straight 1 & 1/8 steer tube - this is #1 reason why I went with the ZS cup in the first place. I hate reducer crown races. #2 reason was reduce effective a2c on fork. If you're running the tapered steer it'll be the external cups on bottom. Hope this helps.

  16. #266
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    ruscle, I don't know much about the boost valving and PP on the fox. My motolite didn't have boost valve and the PP was so firm I never ran the bike with it on. My Nomad didn't have PP and really didn't need it. other bikes run Monarch - love those shocks compared to Fox.

    Can you tell me more about the boost valving and how it relates to the PP being "on". I tend to prefer to ride with my shocks wide open. So, if I reduce psi a little in order to counter the added "harshness" by running the shock in "trail mode" what will the mechanical effect be?

    Thanks

  17. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnigro View Post
    ruscle, I don't know much about the boost valving and PP on the fox. My motolite didn't have boost valve and the PP was so firm I never ran the bike with it on. My Nomad didn't have PP and really didn't need it. other bikes run Monarch - love those shocks compared to Fox.

    Can you tell me more about the boost valving and how it relates to the PP being "on". I tend to prefer to ride with my shocks wide open. So, if I reduce psi a little in order to counter the added "harshness" by running the shock in "trail mode" what will the mechanical effect be?

    Thanks
    I'm no expert on suspension but my understanding is that Fox shocks always suffered from blowing through the travel too easily, so they used the Boost Valve technology to help counteract this tendency. As said before though, the BV only works if PP is on. The shock does have 3 different settings of PP but my experience is that it doesn't really work and it still blew through its travel and wallowed lots when climbing. To help you need to run more pressure but then this detracts from the smoothness of the ride. I always like to run around 30-35% sag. Fox do sell those little plastic wedges you put inside the air can to help ramp up the compression towards the end of the shock stroke so to stop bottoming out, this may help you run lower pressures and get close to how you want the shock to act.

    I just bought the BOS Vip'R instead and it works perfectly, propping the bike up really well when normal riding and climbing but is still super active and smooth over the rough stuff. I used to run 175psi on the Fox, I run 225psi on the Vip'R. Much, much better shock.

  18. #268
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    thanks ruscle. I'm looking for confirmation on when the boost valve turns on...

  19. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnigro View Post
    droptop, the I'm 99.9% sure that the ZS49 lower cups can only be run with a straight 1 & 1/8 steer tube - this is #1 reason why I went with the ZS cup in the first place. I hate reducer crown races. #2 reason was reduce effective a2c on fork. If you're running the tapered steer it'll be the external cups on bottom. Hope this helps.
    Of course you can use a fork with a straight steerer, but you're missing out on one of the best features of the ASR5! IMO, the tapered steer tube mated with a through axle is one of the things that makes this bike such a strong performer. Of course if you're in love with your fork, keep what you have but when it's time to replace it, take a close look at the tapered option. It's lighter and WAY stiffer, you will not be disappointed

  20. #270
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    Yep, tapered fork is the way to go. But when you have a top line fork and it happens to be 1 &1/8, put the extra cash I to something else. 20mm TA is plenty stiff. It's no Lyrik but...

  21. #271
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    post deleted.
    Last edited by droptop; 04-17-2013 at 08:54 PM. Reason: deleted

  22. #272
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    anyone running a m985 crankset? looking to go full xtr on my build, but yeti themselves did not know if they would fit. looking specifically at the 42/30 double, or the 40/28.

  23. #273
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    Seeing that orange makes me wish i could have found one instead of slate. but this slate is much cooler in person than in pictures. Slate w/ orange wheels & pedals

  24. #274
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    Ruscle, wanted to let you know I talked to Fox. The boost valve IS active even with pro pedal turned off. It looks like I might be running a shim in the CTD to get a bit more ramp up on this thing in the last third of the shock stroke. If that doesn't work, gonna toss on a Monarch and forget about it.

    Tha is again for your help.

  25. #275
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    Cheers for information. I was given mine by Mojo who are the designated service centre in the UK!? The shim may help but I still feel it should be able to be tweaked without this after thought by Fox. Good luck.

  26. #276
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    After a great couple of seasons it was time to do some upgrades, from the stock Enduro build to XO 2x10 and Haven Carbons with XT Brakes (best money I ever have spent on a bike, the upgraded brakes from the POS Avid 5s). Typical, the trails have been mudfests with more snow/rain falling as I type, have not been out on the maiden voyage yet.

    Love the matching red shifter cables, a surprise and delight when I picked up the bike.


  27. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by gotdurt View Post
    Question for those that bought ASR-5 frames to be built: did they come with any drop-outs at all, or did you have to order them separately? I just ordered a 2012 frame, but I can't find any info clarifying this, and I'd rather not wait until the frame arrives to find out (I want to build it, pronto).
    Didn't see this answered anywhere...

    My frame came with the standard dropouts. As I'm sure you know, you can upgrade to the 142x12 by buying the appropriate "chip set" for about $50. But out of the box, my ASR-5 came with the standard dropouts installed and ready to rock.

  28. #278
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinGT View Post
    Didn't see this answered anywhere...

    My frame came with the standard dropouts. As I'm sure you know, you can upgrade to the 142x12 by buying the appropriate "chip set" for about $50. But out of the box, my ASR-5 came with the standard dropouts installed and ready to rock.
    Let me ask this... I have the standard dropouts with King hubs. So to upgrade, I need:
    1. New King axle, 12x142
    2. Yeti chip set
    3. The actual 12x142 QR. Where do I get this?

  29. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_lombardy View Post
    3. The actual 12x142 QR. Where do I get this?
    Shimano SM-AX75 ( QR axle and nut )

    Universal Cycles -- Shimano Thru-Axles & Parts

  30. #280
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    Shimano XTR M988 Rear 12x142mm Thru-axle Q/R Unit from Bike Bling

    Quote Originally Posted by max_lombardy View Post
    Let me ask this... I have the standard dropouts with King hubs. So to upgrade, I need:
    1. New King axle, 12x142
    2. Yeti chip set
    3. The actual 12x142 QR. Where do I get this?

  31. #281
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    Best deal I could find was Jenson for the chip set and Bike Bling for the axle, but bought both from Jenson with price match on the axle and free shipping over $50.

  32. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinGT View Post
    Didn't see this answered anywhere...

    My frame came with the standard dropouts. As I'm sure you know, you can upgrade to the 142x12 by buying the appropriate "chip set" for about $50. But out of the box, my ASR-5 came with the standard dropouts installed and ready to rock.
    Thanks, it's here... came with 135x10, what I needed.

    On another note, this thing takes the prize for the largest 'medium' I've ever thrown a leg over, and I've worked in a couple of shops, so that's a lot... Hope I can get used to it. I'm 5-10; I hope no one 5-7 takes Yeti's sizing advise, they'll be strreeetched ooouuut!
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  33. #283
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    Good morning guys from Johannesburg, South Africa,

    I am new to this site and would like to find out some advice. I am in the process of builidng a 2012 Yeti ASR 5, I am in two minds about what I should do to it. Having read through the forum numerous times and seeing the incredible builds has spurred me on to build mine to thbest possible spec.

    Here is what I have so far,

    - 2012 Yeti ASR 5 Alloy frame (White)
    - Chris King headset (Navy Blue)
    - Thomson X4 stem 70mm
    - Easton Havoc 730mm handle bar
    - ODI Yeti Hardcore grips (Navy Blue lock rings)
    - 2013 FLOAT CTD BOOST VALVE REMOTE [7.875, 2.0]
    - 2013 Fox Float 32 CTD with trail Adjust
    - 2013 Fox Doss 30.9mm seat dropper post
    - Jagwire Sid Blue gear cables and Hyflow Hydraulic brake cables
    - Wheels *TBC looking at the 2013 Crossmax SX in white or the Crossmax ST *Advice*
    - Drive train - *Any advice* looking at the Shimano XTR, but that is hugely expensive.
    - Brakes - *any advice*
    - Tyres - Schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.25 Front, Schwalbe racing Ralph Back


    Inputs would be greatly appreciated, it is probably going to be an extremely slow build as I am purchasing things as I go. Any ideas where I could possibly get a good deal on Crossmax SX or ST wheelset from?

  34. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by 52Coaste2009 View Post
    Here is what I have so far,

    - 2012 Yeti ASR 5 Alloy frame (White)
    - Chris King headset (Navy Blue)
    - Thomson X4 stem 70mm
    - Easton Havoc 730mm handle bar
    - ODI Yeti Hardcore grips (Navy Blue lock rings)
    - 2013 FLOAT CTD BOOST VALVE REMOTE [7.875, 2.0]
    - 2013 Fox Float 32 CTD with trail Adjust
    - 2013 Fox Doss 30.9mm seat dropper post
    - Jagwire Sid Blue gear cables and Hyflow Hydraulic brake cables
    - Wheels *TBC looking at the 2013 Crossmax SX in white or the Crossmax ST *Advice*
    - Drive train - *Any advice* looking at the Shimano XTR, but that is hugely expensive.
    - Brakes - *any advice*
    - Tyres - Schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.25 Front, Schwalbe racing Ralph Back

    For wheels it depends on what type of riding you do and whether you need lighter or stronger.
    For the drivetrain, I'd personally go with XT for the front mech and cassette but I'd try and splash out for the XTR shifters, chain and rear mech if the funds allow. If you bash rear mechs a bit, then consider the XT instead. The XTR cassette is hideously expensive so the XT one makes sense. As for crankset, I personally run Race Face and haven't had issue with them - YMMV.
    As for brakes, I'd definitely recommend XT M780 brakes. I personally wouldn't look beyond them; hassle free, relatively cheap with very strong performance.

  35. #285
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    Just picked up a 2012 yeti asr-5 in turquoise (L). Building it as my dream bike- to keep me from buying another bike for a while (about to start a PhD- need something to ride and not think about).

    Frame Yeti Asr-5 (A) with 142x12 rear axle
    Fork- X-fusion slant dropped to 130
    Headset- Red Cane creek 110
    Shifters- XTR
    F. Der- XTR
    R. Der- XTR shadow+
    Crank- XTR Double 40-28
    Cassette- XT
    Brakes- Hope tech evo m4
    Rotors- hope floating rotor 183 f/r
    Seatpost- rock shox reverb
    Hubs- Hadley (red)
    Rims- Pacenti TL28
    Spokes- DT Swiss competition
    Tires- Specialized Ground Control 2.3 F, 2.3 or 2.1 Rear
    Handlebar- Truvativ boobar for now, enve next
    Stem- deciding on length
    Grips- ODI Rogue

    Some of the parts are things I have wanted for years (hope brakes, hadley hubs, CC110 headset) and figured this was my chance to finally get what i wanted after several "budget builds" used for racing. I went a little crazy, but I don't see regretting any of it!

    Bike will be used for everything from rough XC in central texas, to mountain trips in the north georgia mountains, to groomed XC racing. I am maybe a mid-pack Cat 2 when I race, but I doubt this bike will hold me back. I am expecting it to weigh in at 27-28 lbs. Most of the parts are in- pictures will be posted when the wheels are built up and the fork is available.

  36. #286
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    My initial reaction was to order a small, I'm 5'9.5 and bought a medium based on my research.
    It'll have a straight post and 70-90mm stem. I hope the sizing is correct!

    Gotdurt, how long is your stem?

  37. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by NightOWL View Post
    My initial reaction was to order a small, I'm 5'9.5 and bought a medium based on my research.
    It'll have a straight post and 70-90mm stem. I hope the sizing is correct!

    Gotdurt, how long is your stem?
    I am 5'10" on a medium with a 70 mm stem. The fit is perfect! Go with the 70mm stem and you will love it!

  38. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jet Fuel View Post
    I am 5'10" on a medium with a 70 mm stem. The fit is perfect! Go with the 70mm stem and you will love it!
    I'm 5'8.5" on a medium with a 70mm stem with an inline seatpost. Perfect fit for me too.

  39. #289
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    I second DGB's advice. Wheels are a personal choice, and there are a lot of great options out there. Mavic makes great stuff, also consider DT Swiss, King, i9, Shimano or Easton (or like a million others )

    As for drivetrain, XT is bombproof, XTR is the crème de la crème, and you'll pay for it. It's worth it for some parts IMO. I have an XTR M980 crank and it's by far the best crank I've used (compared to XX, XO, XT, Noir and others). It's unbelievably stiff, and surprisingly the lightest of the listed cranks. XTR shadow plus derailleur is also just incredible. XT for the rest if you ask me. I saw a great deal on XT 10 speed shifters at Blueskycycles a few days ago. If you're careful and patient you can piece together a great build for not a lot of cash (relatively).

    As for brakes, go XT BR M780, you won't be disappointed. They're strong, fairly cheap, pretty light and look awesome.

  40. #290
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    Here's the link to the shifters:
    BlueSkyCycling.com - Shimano XT SL M780 Rapidfire Shifter Pods 10 Speed
    Usually they blow through their stock so if you want them, don't wait. This is about as cheap as it gets for these.

  41. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by NightOWL View Post
    My initial reaction was to order a small, I'm 5'9.5 and bought a medium based on my research.
    It'll have a straight post and 70-90mm stem. I hope the sizing is correct!

    Gotdurt, how long is your stem?
    I have a 70mm stem on it, but I'm accustomed to 23" top tubes on medium bikes (this is 23.7), in fact over the last 25 years, I've actually favored small (16") frames because I use a lot of body english and ride very technical trails (I have both small and medium frame builds at the moment for different trails). I also find that smaller frames are easier to weight the front in tight, fast turns. Overall though, I'm a standard medium rider.
    I'm not done building it, but I have ridden it around my neighborhood in singlespeed mode and find that, compared to my other frames, getting the front wheel up takes a bit more effort, and the manual sweet spot is all out of whack... body position will need to be relearned for sure. I'm determined to like it though, so I'll give it a chance. Maybe things will be different once I get out on the trail; the length should be good on steep, ledgey downhills anyway.
    Last edited by gotdurt; 04-24-2013 at 10:19 AM. Reason: add quote
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  42. #292
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    He's jealous....

  43. #293
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    oops

    ...
    Last edited by gotdurt; 04-25-2013 at 07:23 AM. Reason: crappy forum format.
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  44. #294
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    that picture makes me think i should of gotten the turquoise. delete it now!

  45. #295
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    For those of you running 1x, what chain guide are you using? I'm reluctant to try a clamp type due to the frame design; worried the clamp might mount too high. A BB mount guide would be safe, but then I wouldn't have the option of mounting a bottom roller later, if I decide to...

    Also, having used fixed guides on other bikes, I don't really like the chain striking a fixed object... seems like a top roller would be better (like my motorcycle); has anyone tried something like a Blackspire Stinger rotated to the top? It wouldn't even have to touch the chain, 1/8" of clearance should keep the chain on the ring, especially with a single-specific ring.
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  46. #296
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    and the xtr m985 40/28 crankset fits with PLENTY of clearance.

  47. #297
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    Quote Originally Posted by NightOWL View Post
    My initial reaction was to order a small, I'm 5'9.5 and bought a medium based on my research.
    It'll have a straight post and 70-90mm stem. I hope the sizing is correct!

    Gotdurt, how long is your stem?
    I would be shocked if you were comfortable on a Small. I'm 5' 6" with about a 28" inseam and fit perfectly on a small with an 80mm stem. In fact, I'm considering swapping it for a 100mm stem because I've been riding with that old-school XC stretched out position for 20 years. The "new" Trail/AM geometry of being a bit more upright with wider bars works absolutely perfectly on my small ASR-5.

    On my first ride, I felt a tiiiiiiiiny bit too upright and contemplated going with a slightly longer stem. But the more I ride, the better the new position feels so I'll probably stick with my 80mm.

    Bottom line, though, is that a Small would be too small, in my opinion, for anyone over 5' 7" unless that person has an abnormally short torso. You can also see, in this picture, my seatpost height...again, the small is the perfect fit at 5' 6"

    Last edited by KevinGT; 04-27-2013 at 09:19 AM.

  48. #298
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    am i crazy for wanting to put a 34mm stanchion fork on the asr5? or should i stick with a revelation? both would be dropped to ~130mm travel, 34mm fork would be bit taller (10mm i think, won't know until i get it). I am 180 lbs, ride in central texas and north georgia mountains. This is really a XC/trail+ build- i race what i ride, my last bike was 32 lbs.

    my previous fork was a straight 1 1/8 RS sektor with a QR, and I found it somewhat flexy, head angle was 69 degrees with the fork set at 150. It wasn't bad, but it could have been better.

  49. #299
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    I'm about 200lb rtr and I ride a Rev at 140mm with a ZS lower headset. I just bumped it up from 130mm. I've ridden this fork for a while at 150mm on another bike. With a 20mm axle it is plenty stiff for what this bike can handle. However, if I could throw the new Pike on ANY bike, I would - assuming proper a2c could be achieved. I have ridden a Lyrik for years and it'll spoil you.

  50. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by droptop View Post
    am i crazy for wanting to put a 34mm stanchion fork on the asr5?
    Nope.

    I stuck a BOS Deville 140mm fork with 20mm axle and 34mm stanchions on my ASR5. Can plough through really rough terrain and it stays bang on track. Couldn't recommend it highly enough. Don't bother dropping it to 130mm of travel, I used to run a fork at this travel on my Yeti but prefer it at 140 with a little more sag set.

    With the extra travel and stiffness from this type of fork it transforms the bike it to a more rough and tumble bike which still goes up really quickly.

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