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  1. #251
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    Finally! Just took my first real ride on it and wanted to get it dirty before posting some pics. Traditional build but very close to my dream bike. I just couldn't mentally justify the extra $1300 for the carbon.







    Frame: Yeti ASR-5 alloy, black ano, small
    Fork: Fox Racing 32 Float FIT 120 RLC
    Wheels: Stan's ZTR Crest with Hope EVO Pro 2 hubs
    Tires: Schwalbe Nobby Nic, 2.25 Snakeskin (tubeless)
    Drivetrain: Shimano XT 786 2x10
    Brakes: Shimano XT w/Ice-Tech
    Headset: Chris King
    Stem: Thomson X4 0x80
    Bar: RaceFace Next SL riser
    Grips: ODI Yeti Lock-on
    Seatpost: Thomson Elite with Thomson binder
    Saddle: WTB Volt Team Ti
    Pedals: Eggbeater 3

    Total weight: 26.00 lbs.

    2 miles into my first ride, I hit a deep sandy spot that, last week, was hardpack, and washed the front wheel out. Left shoulder hit a tree and right shin hit the pedal. I think that that was my Yeti's way of saying "Welcome to The Tribe. Ride better."
    Last edited by KevinGT; 04-13-2013 at 11:54 AM.
    I live with fear and danger every day. And on the weekends she lets me go mountain biking.

  2. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_lombardy View Post
    Dang Ruscle that's a crazy build! Very non-traditional!!! Cool
    Cheers, I appreciate your comments. I think I want to be buried with this bike!!

    Only thing I would want to change is the colour to the Yeti turquoise.

  3. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinGT View Post

    2 miles into my first ride, I hit a deep sandy spot that, last week, was hardpack, and washed the front wheel out. Left shoulder hit a tree and right shin hit the pedal. I think that that was my Yeti's way of saying "Welcome to The Tribe. Ride better."
    Great looking ride! You'll love it.

  4. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinGT View Post
    Finally! Just took my first real ride on it and wanted to get it dirty before posting some pics.
    Looks great! I hope you are as happy with yours as I am with mine. I used mine on 5 rides so far and after each one I like it even more.

  5. #255
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    For those running a 140mm fork, are you using an internal bottom cup or external. And, is the front wheel wandering on the climbs?

    I have my Revelation set at 130mm now and was thinking about bumping it up to 140mm as the bike feels a tad steep for my taste.

    It isn't a huge PITA to adjust travel but figured I'd ask others before putting in the 1/2 hour at the bike stand. I purposely went with the internal bottom cup to help keep the front planted on climbs. Any help is appreciated.

    Also, how much sag are you guys running? What is your rtr weight and do you have any issues blowing thru the mid stroke and bottoming out? I'm still looking for the sweet spot with this shock and getting somewhat frustrated. Maybe I just need to stop treating the bike like its a 160mm beast???

  6. #256
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    I run an external bottom cup, the front wanders a little on climbs but I'm also running a fair few spacers under the stem.

    I struggled with the shock so ended swapping it out for a BOS Vip'R shock which works much better at supporting the bike and not blowing through the travel, or sinking into the travel when climbing.

  7. #257
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    Thanks Ruscle. I'm going to drop the lowers and bump travel to 140mm this weekend and give her a go.

    As for the rear shock setup, how much do you weigh? I'm about 205 with gear and even when running 10mm sag I get deep into the travel on average stuff. I've bottomed out hard a few times running in the chunky stuff without being picky about my line. Like I said , maybe I need to stop riding this like its my El Guapo and tone it down some.

  8. #258
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    Question for those that bought ASR-5 frames to be built: did they come with any drop-outs at all, or did you have to order them separately? I just ordered a 2012 frame, but I can't find any info clarifying this, and I'd rather not wait until the frame arrives to find out (I want to build it, pronto).
    'T'is only a flesh wound...
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  9. #259
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    Yep, standard dropouts included. If you want TA you'll need to order those.

  10. #260
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    Mine came with 9mm. Had to buy kit to upgrade to 142 x 12. I think that's the case with all ASR5s.

  11. #261
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    Thanks, std 135x10 is perfect, that's what all my wheels are right now.
    'T'is only a flesh wound...
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  12. #262
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    So, the EC34/ZS49 headsets work? pairing this with the x-fusion slant fork coming out soon, and was hoping to counteract some of the slightly taller a-c with a lower stack headset.

    also, just took delivery of my 2012 yeti asr-5a, in turquoise. looking forward to ordering the rest of the parts kit and riding. first race on it is in may! coming from ~4 years of 29ers, switched to a 26" 140mm plus bike a year ago and don't want to go back to the big wheels!

  13. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by grymes View Post
    Not the best photo, but here is my ASR5c.



    Parts include:
    Fork - Fox F-Series 120
    Rear Shock - Fox Float RP23
    Saddle - Chromag Moon
    Seat Post - RockShox Reverb
    Headset - Cane Creek XX II
    Wheels - Easton Havon AL
    Brakes - Hope Tech M4 (front), X2 (rear)
    Cranks - Truvativ XX
    Shifters - Sram XO
    Rear Derailleur - Sram XO
    Front Derailleur - Sram XO
    Rear Cassette - Sram XO
    Handlebar - Raceface SixC
    Stem - Thompson
    how do you like the m4/x2 combo? im thinking about m4 f/r, only because i like things to match (same pads f/r). im 185 lbs and run 180 rotors.

  14. #264
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    I'm around 195 with all kit on. I don't hold back when riding this bike as it seems to be able to handle quite a lot. I don't rate the Fox shocks, they seem to be designed to be run with the pro pedal on all the time which I never like to use. The Boost valve is meant to stop the mid stroke wallow but the Boost valve only works when you have the pro pedal on.

  15. #265
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    droptop, the I'm 99.9% sure that the ZS49 lower cups can only be run with a straight 1 & 1/8 steer tube - this is #1 reason why I went with the ZS cup in the first place. I hate reducer crown races. #2 reason was reduce effective a2c on fork. If you're running the tapered steer it'll be the external cups on bottom. Hope this helps.

  16. #266
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    ruscle, I don't know much about the boost valving and PP on the fox. My motolite didn't have boost valve and the PP was so firm I never ran the bike with it on. My Nomad didn't have PP and really didn't need it. other bikes run Monarch - love those shocks compared to Fox.

    Can you tell me more about the boost valving and how it relates to the PP being "on". I tend to prefer to ride with my shocks wide open. So, if I reduce psi a little in order to counter the added "harshness" by running the shock in "trail mode" what will the mechanical effect be?

    Thanks

  17. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnigro View Post
    ruscle, I don't know much about the boost valving and PP on the fox. My motolite didn't have boost valve and the PP was so firm I never ran the bike with it on. My Nomad didn't have PP and really didn't need it. other bikes run Monarch - love those shocks compared to Fox.

    Can you tell me more about the boost valving and how it relates to the PP being "on". I tend to prefer to ride with my shocks wide open. So, if I reduce psi a little in order to counter the added "harshness" by running the shock in "trail mode" what will the mechanical effect be?

    Thanks
    I'm no expert on suspension but my understanding is that Fox shocks always suffered from blowing through the travel too easily, so they used the Boost Valve technology to help counteract this tendency. As said before though, the BV only works if PP is on. The shock does have 3 different settings of PP but my experience is that it doesn't really work and it still blew through its travel and wallowed lots when climbing. To help you need to run more pressure but then this detracts from the smoothness of the ride. I always like to run around 30-35% sag. Fox do sell those little plastic wedges you put inside the air can to help ramp up the compression towards the end of the shock stroke so to stop bottoming out, this may help you run lower pressures and get close to how you want the shock to act.

    I just bought the BOS Vip'R instead and it works perfectly, propping the bike up really well when normal riding and climbing but is still super active and smooth over the rough stuff. I used to run 175psi on the Fox, I run 225psi on the Vip'R. Much, much better shock.

  18. #268
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    thanks ruscle. I'm looking for confirmation on when the boost valve turns on...

  19. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnigro View Post
    droptop, the I'm 99.9% sure that the ZS49 lower cups can only be run with a straight 1 & 1/8 steer tube - this is #1 reason why I went with the ZS cup in the first place. I hate reducer crown races. #2 reason was reduce effective a2c on fork. If you're running the tapered steer it'll be the external cups on bottom. Hope this helps.
    Of course you can use a fork with a straight steerer, but you're missing out on one of the best features of the ASR5! IMO, the tapered steer tube mated with a through axle is one of the things that makes this bike such a strong performer. Of course if you're in love with your fork, keep what you have but when it's time to replace it, take a close look at the tapered option. It's lighter and WAY stiffer, you will not be disappointed

  20. #270
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    Yep, tapered fork is the way to go. But when you have a top line fork and it happens to be 1 &1/8, put the extra cash I to something else. 20mm TA is plenty stiff. It's no Lyrik but...

  21. #271
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    post deleted.
    Last edited by droptop; 04-17-2013 at 07:54 PM. Reason: deleted

  22. #272
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    anyone running a m985 crankset? looking to go full xtr on my build, but yeti themselves did not know if they would fit. looking specifically at the 42/30 double, or the 40/28.

  23. #273
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    Seeing that orange makes me wish i could have found one instead of slate. but this slate is much cooler in person than in pictures. Slate w/ orange wheels & pedals

  24. #274
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    Ruscle, wanted to let you know I talked to Fox. The boost valve IS active even with pro pedal turned off. It looks like I might be running a shim in the CTD to get a bit more ramp up on this thing in the last third of the shock stroke. If that doesn't work, gonna toss on a Monarch and forget about it.

    Tha is again for your help.

  25. #275
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    Cheers for information. I was given mine by Mojo who are the designated service centre in the UK!? The shim may help but I still feel it should be able to be tweaked without this after thought by Fox. Good luck.

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