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  1. #1
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    Anyone ridden 95a & 95c? Worth the + dough?

    What's up Team Yeti? New bike time for me (coming from 05 Spec. Stumpjumper, about time), first demo (and 29er ride ever) was the SB-95a. Loved it, had a blast going up and holy sh!t, definitely loved it going down. Have since ridden a Pivot Mach 429 (fun to climb/pedal, didn't feel near as fun down), and may still get on a Tallboy LTc and/or the Ibis Ripley. I'm getting sick of googling bike crap and am ready to drop the hammer and just ride!

    My problem is this - I'm pretty much sold on the Yeti, and I keep rationalizing a bigger budget. I started looking hoping to get something 3500-ish...tough, my Stumpy is specd pretty good, and the bikes at that price point are a little thin in some departments. My LBS would give me the SB95a (race) at ten percent off MSRP, and presumably would do the same if I had him order a SB95c. Is it worth the grand? Really worth it? I'm not into "bling" (and in fact would worry more about feeling like a poser then thinking I was sweet), but wouldn't mind ditching 2 pounds on each and every bike ride in the next 8 years or whatever...but then again, I've pretty much only ridden a 29lb Stumpjumper - would I even notice the difference between a 30 lb SB95a and a 28lb SB95c? I'm tempted to throw a dropper post on there (next year!), and I know that adds another pound. I'm not that into the Enduro build, definitely like the XT stuff/Thomson cockpit/etc.

    I've read just about every thread on this dang board, but would love some input from folks that have ridden both. Worth the extra grand (I reallllly need new ski boots this fall too...) to get the stiffness/lightweight carbon (but I'd have to wait for the order, no idea how long that would take)?...or do I just drive to the shop tomorrow at lunch, throw down the VISA, and ride the 95a tomorrow after work with my buds?

    Obligatory information: 36 yrs old, 6' 175 (demoed the L, fit pretty well I think?), mostly ride XC/Trail - lotta climbing, but lots of chunky downhills and end up on burlier trails every now and then, live in Jackson WY, keep the wheels on the dirt except for easy, no consequence jibby 18" mega-airs, and unfortunately know jack **** about different bikes. I rode hardtails until I bought the Stumpy way back when, and have ridden that until now. I hope to be on this bike for awhile so could justify the extra $ on the carbon, but if its not really that big a deal I could easily save for boots/dropper post/new wheels/skis/plane tickets/etcetcetc. Thanks a ton for any help - don't blame you guys for being into Yeti, that's a kicka$$ bike!!!

  2. #2
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    My vote - L Yeti carbon race. XT build is solid. The carbon feels snappier, smoother and the two lbs was noticeable for me when climbing. I did upgrade the wheels to something lighter and stiffer as well. This could be done later when you're ready.

  3. #3
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    So carbon is basically a no-consequence frame material these days? I'll still get the burly ride down, confidence-inspiring, etc and pay no penalty? Other than of course the numbers in my checking account? Interesting. Thanks for the input...

  4. #4
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    There is the potential for frame breakage, etc with either A or C. The two year warranty is what gives me piece of mind. Plus, it looks like Yeti has been great about the turn around time when things do go wrong.

  5. #5
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    I went with a SB95c Enduro over an SB95a Race. Reasons...I believe that the most important parts of a bike go in this order:

    1) Frame
    2) Suspension (Same on the entire line)
    3) Wheels (This is a wash for me since I'd replace either set of wheels on Race/Enduro)
    4) Tires
    5) Cockpit geo (debatable re importance, could be higher)
    6) Brakes
    7) Drivetrain (most mid range stuff is reliable these days)

    For those reasons, given that I'll swap the bars/wheels pretty quickly (and would on either build) I chose the carbon frame with a lower spec'd drivetrain/brakes etc because the frame and suspension are identical. Just made more sense given my bike part value model above.

  6. #6
    Spring! Spring! Spring!
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    I agree with JonathanM's list.

    If I were in the same boat this year I'd probably get an Enduro instead of the Race 95a that I got last year, to get the carbon frameset.

    BUT, if I was already money tight on the Enduro 95c I'd spend 500$ on carbon rims to rebuild the wheels with and get the 95a.

    You'll "feel" the weight loss on the wheels more than anywhere else.

  7. #7
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    Interesting points...thanks

  8. #8
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    If you are comparing the SB95a w/racekit with the SB95c w/ race kit and asking if the $1,000 extra is worth it... I would say that in all the discussion I've had with people that use the carbon frames, they say generally you go for carbon for the stiffness not necessarily the weight advantage. This is why they also say, that heavier riders seem to notice the difference more than a lighter rider. Lastly, the big weight advantage, as bear pointed out, is in lighter wheels not necessarily the 2 lb frame. The rotational weight is always there, while the 2lbs on the frame is only partial depending on the steepness of the incline.

    If you are trying to determine between the SB95a w/ race kit or SB95c with Enduro kit, that's a tough choice. If you like upgrading bikes quite a bit, you might consider carbon/enduro kit and upgrade parts overtime.

    I was in a simliar scenario, trying to determine which route to go and I chose the SB95a w/racekit for the following main reasons;

    - I ride in a lot of rock and didn't want to chance smashing the carbon on the sharp rock we have around here. In fact, I've already crashed my SB95a in a rock garden twice, hitting the chain stays really hard. Resulting in scratches only. (BTW, the paint is pretty tough) I know carbon has come along way.. but I'm not there yet.

    - IMO, I believe the race kit is really worth it. The shmano 2x10, the shimano brakes and the wide east carbon bars are not to be underestimated. In fact, I would argue that they are "your interface" to the bike... as they are the controls you use all the time. The 2x10 is fantastic.

    - At 165 pounds, I don't need stiffness in the frame. I'm not sure what flex is. If I want to reduce weight I'll spend some bucks and get carbon wheels.

    Lastly, there is no wrong decision here. The SB95 is a great bike, no matter what configuration. I posted this just to give you a contrast to some of the other good input above. Good luck !

  9. #9
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    Thanks for all the info and opinions, nicely. Good points all around. I see the pros for the 95a as a little cheaper, no carbon breakage concern (even if that's maybe much less of an issue on mtb frames then 5 years ago - I still can't imagine the anti-stoke of a busted frame in the next year or two), and I can make up some of the weight gain (and cash savings) in nicer wheels down the line. The carbon has the stiffness and is a little lighter - esp if I put on a dropper - but there's the drama potential and it costs a bit more.

    I can't disagree with the bike part value model above, but am also heartened by the fact that no matter where I end up, I'll be super stoked on this bike. Thanks again for all the input - anyone else in this same boat or that's been there, feel free to chime in. Dirt is good.

  10. #10
    boomer
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    Quote Originally Posted by ridetheridge View Post
    - I ride in a lot of rock and didn't want to chance smashing the carbon on the sharp rock we have around here. In fact, I've already crashed my SB95a in a rock garden twice, hitting the chain stays really hard. Resulting in scratches only. (BTW, the paint is pretty tough)
    Really? 1st crash, 2nd ride. Name:  image.png
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    Calvin

  11. #11
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    If you can afford the carbon then go that direction. It is a substantially better material in several aspects, not just weight. It damps vibration MUCH better, is significantly stiffer and also tougher than AL on rock strikes. The only weakness of carbon is cost. I also run carbon wheels, but had to go to an AL rear rim for a few months recently to run XX1. I absolutely destroyed the AL in less than three months. My carbon rear wheel is going on two years now without issue even riding hard in Socal chunder. I would also say that you are much more likely to change components than your frame, so buy the best frame you can afford.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by okie_calvin View Post
    Really? 1st crash, 2nd ride. Name:  image.png
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    Not sure I follow your post. Is that a new SB95c you just got and already crashed and cracked it?

  13. #13
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    That is an SB95a in the picture. My personal experience with carbon is that it is every bit as tough as aluminum if not more. The feel of carbon to me is worth the extra dough. Upgrading parts is easier to do than the frame IMO.

  14. #14
    boomer
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    Quote Originally Posted by smithrider View Post
    Not sure I follow your post. Is that a new SB95c you just got and already crashed and cracked it?
    No it's aluminum; I posted it in reference to his statement that the paint was pretty tough.
    Calvin

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by okie_calvin View Post
    Really? 1st crash, 2nd ride. Name:  image.png
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    Mine is Turquoise, not sure if that makes a difference. Maybe harder to notice. I guess if you hit hard enough, doesn't matter. Touch up paint would probably help there though...

  16. #16
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    Thanks for the input guys - I ordered the black 95c. Shop said it'll be 2-3 weeks, but I'm heading out of town for the 4th (side question: any mountain biking worth a sh!t on Cape Cod? Decent cheap golf options?) so waiting isn't that big a deal. Was gonna buy the large 95c that the LBS thought he had in stock, but it was a medium. If I was gonna special order a bike, it might as well be the carbon.

    Thanks again guys - I'll be geeking out a bit and tweaking out the cockpit/tires/etc. My bro-in-law can get me free Kendas: Nevegal, Honey Badger, or ??? Maybe Neve up front and Honey Badger in back?

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