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  1. #1
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    New question here. 575 and RP3 air sleeve...

    The other thread got me inspired to clean/lube my air sleeve seals.

    Question: Can the air sleeve on the 575 be removed while the shock is still mounted to the bike at the dog bone pivot? I ask b/c I believe that pivot is a PITA to remove and needs a special tool. I'm thinking I can leave that connection and perform the service IF there is enough room to pull the air sleeve body out before it hits the frame.

    Can someone confirm this? Thanks.

  2. #2
    trail "cleaner"
    Reputation: AZmtncycler's Avatar
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    one word.....

    Nope.
    You need to pull the sleeve off entirely in order to thoroughly clean the seals and relube them for reinstall. Plus..... the air trapped as you push the sleeve back on create quite a bit of pressure and make the sleeve hard to spin on. It's best done in a vice with soft jaws. This is what I use and it makes the job soooo much easier. Oh.... the tools from Yeti make pressing out/in the pivot very easy. Time to pony up for them.
    No dabs allowed!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZmtncycler
    Oh.... the tools from Yeti make pressing out/in the pivot very easy. Time to pony up for them.
    One word. "Word."

    I need to order a back up der. hanger and maybe a Yeti chainstay protector just for shiites and grins anyhow. I don't like taking my bike to a shop for anything unless I have to.

  4. #4
    trail "cleaner"
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    agree....

    Quote Originally Posted by eatdrinkride
    One word. "Word."

    I need to order a back up der. hanger and maybe a Yeti chainstay protector just for shiites and grins anyhow. I don't like taking my bike to a shop for anything unless I have to.
    My bikes avoid the 'shops' like the plague! They do more harm then good. There are a few nuggets that make removing the 'dogbone' from the shock easier. Make sure you download the instructions from the Yeti website. Give me a "shout" if you have problems. I've serviced both of my RP3's as well as my buddy's on his 575.
    No dabs allowed!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZmtncycler
    My bikes avoid the 'shops' like the plague! They do more harm then good. There are a few nuggets that make removing the 'dogbone' from the shock easier. Make sure you download the instructions from the Yeti website. Give me a "shout" if you have problems. I've serviced both of my RP3's as well as my buddy's on his 575.
    Thanks.

    I have some Park grease I use on the BB and a tube of 'Rock-n-Roll' suspension grease but not the grease they call for in the instructions. Can I use my stuff? The Park stuff is not teflon based and I don't know what the RandRoll stuff is. They call for teflon based grease in the instruction I think.

    Also I don't plan on replacing the orings unless needed, just cleaning and re-lubing. Of course the instructions say to use Fox Fluid (which I think comes with the rebuild kit). Any other ideas on that? Regular motorcycle fork oil maybe?

  6. #6
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    Use fork oil. The Turner board has gone over this extensively over the last year in analyzing the stuck down issues. Use a mid wt shock oil, perhaps 10wt. About 1-2 cc's total is what you'll need. It will weep down the damper shaft over time, but the seals and rings will be lubed and your shock won't stick down. So you'll use some oil to slick the canister seals, walls, and piston seals, then you'll put the can on, put the rest of the oil on top of the piston, then reassemble. Those greases aren't the right kind for the air chamber. If anything, it's PrepM, but at this point, we've seen it promote stuck down issues.

    As far as the tool goes, I always prefer to put the money I would ordinarily put into a shop repair into buying the proper tools to do the job myself. It's more cost effective.

  7. #7
    trail "cleaner"
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    use both

    Quote Originally Posted by eatdrinkride
    Thanks.

    I have some Park grease I use on the BB and a tube of 'Rock-n-Roll' suspension grease but not the grease they call for in the instructions. Can I use my stuff? The Park stuff is not teflon based and I don't know what the RandRoll stuff is. They call for teflon based grease in the instruction I think.

    Also I don't plan on replacing the orings unless needed, just cleaning and re-lubing. Of course the instructions say to use Fox Fluid (which I think comes with the rebuild kit). Any other ideas on that? Regular motorcycle fork oil maybe?
    I use the park grease and then use an eye dropper for applying the fork oil to all of the seals.
    No dabs allowed!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by eatdrinkride
    The other thread got me inspired to clean/lube my air sleeve seals.

    Question: Can the air sleeve on the 575 be removed while the shock is still mounted to the bike at the dog bone pivot? I ask b/c I believe that pivot is a PITA to remove and needs a special tool. I'm thinking I can leave that connection and perform the service IF there is enough room to pull the air sleeve body out before it hits the frame.

    Can someone confirm this? Thanks.
    Any progress or experience to share?.
    Thanks
    GB

  9. #9
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    Can anyone supply a pic of the tool, as in some high quality pics of different angles of it? Want to see if this is something that can be easily made.

  10. #10
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    I'll try and get one tonight

    I currently have my '06 RP3 back at Fox since the rebound control is 'shot'. So... i've got the dogbone sitting on the tool right now. I'll try and get a photo tonight and post it for you. I think you might be able to buy the parts, but for 20 bones...I felt it was best to get what Yeti uses
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZmtncycler
    I currently have my '06 RP3 back at Fox since the rebound control is 'shot'. So... i've got the dogbone sitting on the tool right now. I'll try and get a photo tonight and post it for you. I think you might be able to buy the parts, but for 20 bones...I felt it was best to get what Yeti uses
    thanks. I'll look for it.

  12. #12
    trail "cleaner"
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    picture of tool and dog bone

    folks, I remembered today to get you some pic's of the tool and dogbone...Here ya go! The 2 large 'plugs' are what is used to press out the large pivot bearings if you need to.
    Attached Images Attached Images
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  13. #13
    i like cheese.
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    Forgive my ignorance, but what about that tool is specific to the 575? Looks like I could browse McMaster-Carr and be good to go... Not bashing just curious.

  14. #14
    Nightriding rules SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZmtncycler
    folks, I remembered today to get you some pic's of the tool and dogbone...Here ya go! The 2 large 'plugs' are what is used to press out the large pivot bearings if you need to.
    So the yeti tool is not only for the dogbone bearings but also for the main pivot ones.. nice!

  15. #15
    trail "cleaner"
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    If you feel the need...

    Quote Originally Posted by bike=good
    Forgive my ignorance, but what about that tool is specific to the 575? Looks like I could browse McMaster-Carr and be good to go... Not bashing just curious.
    to put forth the calories to find the proper sized slugs both in diameter and length.... then by all means, go for it. Personally, for $20 and piece of mind knowing I'll get the right tool for the job, it prevents a whole lot of this....
    No dabs allowed!

  16. #16
    i like cheese.
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZmtncycler
    to put forth the calories to find the proper sized slugs both in diameter and length.... then by all means, go for it. Personally, for $20 and piece of mind knowing I'll get the right tool for the job, it prevents a whole lot of this....
    so the slugs are a non-standard size... gotcha.

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