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  1. #1
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    xc cross country hardtail frame

    looking at building a xc cross country frame up. it seems all the hardtail frame i look at are for the 140mm+ forks, and have a slack head angle. i am looking to run a 120mm fork and have a head angle in the 69-71 range, lighter the frame the better but not looking for ti or anything crazy. i plan on racing this bike litely but more importantly just riding it alot for 2-3 hours at a time through generally bumpy stuff. not big hits but small roots and rocks are pretty common where i am at... are they any frames out there that fit this bill. i see so many am hardtail frames out there but none for what i need. help is appreciated.

    i tried posting this in the bike frame forum and all i got was a reply that i would probably get some better responses in this forum.

    thanks,
    adam

  2. #2
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    I hesitate to recommend this, but

    I bought one of these

    http://cgi.ebay.com/3k-full-Carbon-M...item27b576ec1d

    about a month ago and really like it. I got it for 'cross to use with 1.75 tires, but I plan on putting some fat tires on it and using it for a couple of non technical races next year. Very light and has amazingly thin seat stays that I believe do soften the ride (but can't prove it. might be new bike mania)

    It is unbranded carbon, and the fear of frame failure is ever present. But I did crash it tonight in a 'cross race on some gravel and appears to be fine.

  3. #3
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    If you can pay about $1000 for a frame, there are many custom builders that can make you a frame to meet your exact wants/requirements. Curtlo, Norse, and others can make you a custom steel frame. If you want aluminum there are still some builders that can do this for you. TET Cycles is one that I know of.

    If you do not want to go custom, I am sure there are other options available.

  4. #4
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    the carbon ebay won't work... i don't want to have to tip toe through rock gardens fearing my bike is going to break.... 1000 is way to much for me... i bought a ragley frame for 350 which i thought was fair. i can see myself shelling out 600 for a frame but that is about my max.

  5. #5
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    Couldn't you just get any "normal" xc bike with a pretty steep headtube angle and put a 120mm fork on the front to slacken up the headtube angle?

  6. #6
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    A good alloy frame

    Quote Originally Posted by adumb
    the carbon ebay won't work... i don't want to have to tip toe through rock gardens fearing my bike is going to break.... 1000 is way to much for me... i bought a ragley frame for 350 which i thought was fair. i can see myself shelling out 600 for a frame but that is about my max.
    I have always liked as a good combination of strength, weight, cost and geometry is the giant xtc aluxx frames. These are on ebay for about 400 shipped

    Yes, i understand about the carbon 'fear of failure'.

  7. #7
    LMN
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    Quote Originally Posted by COLINx86
    Couldn't you just get any "normal" xc bike with a pretty steep headtube angle and put a 120mm fork on the front to slacken up the headtube angle?

    That would work. He would probably have to run a seat post with no set-back to counter act the the slacker seat angle. The BB would also be a bit higher too.

    Really though, do you need at 120mm fork on a hardtail? Granted I probably said the same thing five years ago about 100mm fork.

    I ride two hardtails, one with an 80mm fork and one with a 100mm fork. I can't honestly say I descend faster on the 100mm bike. (They are both Orbea Almas, one is a 2008 which was designed for an 80mm fork and one is a 2010 which is designed for a 100mm fork)
    "The best pace is suicide pace, and today is a good day to die." Steve Prefontaine

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevemtu
    It is unbranded carbon, and the fear of frame failure is ever present.....
    At USD 340 for a 1.2kg carbon frame I can totally understand that.

  9. #9
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    You just need something cheap? Get a nashbar, sette, performance etc. hardtail frame and you should be good to go. They are usually set up for 80-100mm travel. If you throw a 120 on there it will slacken up a bit. You'll have to make a few adjustments, but it should workout.

  10. #10
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    Honestly...

    Look into a Niner EMD. 3.5 lbs with all-aluminum construction. You'd be looking at around 400-500 for a frame. Also, I didn't even give much attention to saving weight on my build, and it still comes in at 25-26 lbs with a 1x9 drivetrain.

    I've been riding and racing mine for the past year with a lot of success, so I definitely recommend that you give Niner a shot.

  11. #11
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    i got a ragley blue pig with a sagged head angle at 140mm to be 67.5 if i drop down to a 20mm fork what would the head angle be? i really hate to build my blue pig up again i kinda went at it the wrong way and it just weighs to much. i am just under 32lbs but it is pretty much ready to jump of a building without breaking. my pike 454 which is a great fork weighs almost 6lbs they got fox shocks at like under 4 lbs with 120mm of travel.

  12. #12
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    If you can spend $1300.00 check out a custom ti frame from Habanero Cycles. I've had mine (650b SS) for 2 years and love it!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by LMN
    That would work. He would probably have to run a seat post with no set-back to counter act the the slacker seat angle. The BB would also be a bit higher too.

    Really though, do you need at 120mm fork on a hardtail? Granted I probably said the same thing five years ago about 100mm fork.

    I ride two hardtails, one with an 80mm fork and one with a 100mm fork. I can't honestly say I descend faster on the 100mm bike. (They are both Orbea Almas, one is a 2008 which was designed for an 80mm fork and one is a 2010 which is designed for a 100mm fork)
    you make a valid point.. maybe i should just go for 100mm bike... i can probably get a complete bike at a much better deal anyways, how does the 2010 stumpjumper comp add up to others out there, they sell for 1800.

  14. #14
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    what about a yeti ARC or a tomac Cortez/Silver?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by LMN
    That would work. He would probably have to run a seat post with no set-back to counter act the the slacker seat angle. The BB would also be a bit higher too.

    Really though, do you need at 120mm fork on a hardtail? Granted I probably said the same thing five years ago about 100mm fork.

    I ride two hardtails, one with an 80mm fork and one with a 100mm fork. I can't honestly say I descend faster on the 100mm bike. (They are both Orbea Almas, one is a 2008 which was designed for an 80mm fork and one is a 2010 which is designed for a 100mm fork)
    I find 100mm fork on a 26" hardtail offers just enough added cushion and stability that I don't really feel the need for a full suspension bike.

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