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  1. #1
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    Rear Tire Recommendations 29er Tubeless

    Riding roots and hard-packed, I tend more towards the drier days, I'm not a mud rider. I recently got a WTB Bronson Race for the front, I was looking to get something faster and lighter in the rear, still good on cornering.

    As I said tubeless 29er.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    I really like my racing ralphs. A lot of people run the rocket ron also.

  3. #3
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    I'll start off with my old rocket ron on my rear, but it has given me issues in the front. I hear schwalbe is no good tubeless.

  4. #4
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    What about Maxxis Ikon

  5. #5
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    I do really like that tire, and I've read a good bit about it. But am seeking alternatives also.

  6. #6
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    Re: Rear Tire Recommendations 29er Tubeless

    I like the ikons, continental x-kings are also good though.

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  7. #7
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    I am running maxxis crossmark on the rear as tubeless. Have also run RaRa and RoRo's but not as tubeless. So far I like the crossmark much better.

    Better price and same amount of grip as the Schwalbe for the loose over hard pack riding.
    If there is mud on the trail, the crossmark will get a little 'toey' coming out of the turns under power but in a predictable kind of way.
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  8. #8
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    I was really impressed with the Crossmark design. They seem fast i.e. low rolling resistance.

    And for the X-king, I would use that up front, but from what I read, at the same weight, the Bronson is hard to beat.

  9. #9
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    I just mounted up a Snakeskin Rocket Ron. It seated with a floor pump and held air overnight with no sealant. Easiest tubeless setup I've experienced so far.

  10. #10
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    For dry trails: 1. Front-Continental X-King; Rear-Continental Race King;
    2. Front-Schwalbe Rocket Ron; Rear-Schwalbe Racing Ralph.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drider85 View Post
    What about Maxxis Ikon
    Ikon EXO 2.2 is my rerar tire of choice. Sets up easy tubeless and has been dead reliable in two seasons of racing on the rockiest terrain in the mid Atlantic.
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  12. #12
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    I like Bontrager XR1 x 2.00 @ 440g.

    In dry races will be mounting XR0 x 1.9 @ 400g

  13. #13
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    I'm liking these suggestions. Any word on WTB Nano?

  14. #14
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    I like the Bonty 29-1 2.2. I run them front and rear most of the race season.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by rnm410 View Post
    I hear schwalbe is no good tubeless.
    Where did you hear that? This will be my third season running racing ralphs tubeless. Only one slow leak so far, and no flats.

  16. #16
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    Conti race king in the rear
    Schwalbe racing Ralph in the front

  17. #17
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    Hardpack warrants low and fast tread, and rooty trail warrants higher volume and lower pressure.

    What is your preferred tire size? I am in the "bigger is better" boat when it comes to really rooty trail(2.3-2.4). I also ride a rigid bike.

    High volume, Maybe Racing ralph 2.35-2.4s... Not the smallest tread, but very fast
    Medium, I would check out Race King 2.2 (actually meausre 2.25)
    fairly low volume, Ikon 2.2 (actually measure 2.15)

    All of these are fast tires on hardpack.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheepo5669 View Post
    Hardpack warrants low and fast tread, and rooty trail warrants higher volume and lower pressure.

    What is your preferred tire size? I am in the "bigger is better" boat when it comes to really rooty trail(2.3-2.4). I also ride a rigid bike.

    High volume, Maybe Racing ralph 2.35-2.4s... Not the smallest tread, but very fast
    Medium, I would check out Race King 2.2 (actually meausre 2.25)
    fairly low volume, Ikon 2.2 (actually measure 2.15)

    All of these are fast tires on hardpack.
    Thank you, I've been analyzing tire setups people have posted to get the "formula". This helps much.

    I'm very new to my bike, I haven't had much trail time- maybe two dozen rides? And yes, I'm on a hardtail.

    What I've Used and Learned
    I've only used my 2.25 Rocket Ron's, I really do like them: climbing, resistance, braking, wear... But I have noticed a few times the front slipping out on turns. That may be my mistake, as I have not found the right pressure yet, nor am I running tubeless. And I'm bad on "trail flow" I hit all the roots, but am still able to keep up with the "team racer" guys.

    What I Need
    That being said anything to improve my confidence in corners, maintain my speed, and eat roots is what I'm looking for. (Specifications)

    What I Have
    I ended up buying a WTB Bronson 2.2 Race, got it for $25, so no complaint. I will be using that front. From what I read, I should have no issue cornering, but it does not seem as fast as the RoRo.

    What I Want
    I was hoping to pick up some speed and save some weight in the rear, all to my previous specifications.



    And to answer your question, I cannot speak of what volume I want. I've only tried one tire. What are recommendations for rear? Is it important that the rear preform well over roots? Or is it a climbing and speed tire?

  19. #19
    Rod
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    Quote Originally Posted by rnm410 View Post
    Thank you, I've been analyzing tire setups people have posted to get the "formula". This helps much.

    I'm very new to my bike, I haven't had much trail time- maybe two dozen rides? And yes, I'm on a hardtail.

    What I've Used and Learned
    I've only used my 2.25 Rocket Ron's, I really do like them: climbing, resistance, braking, wear... But I have noticed a few times the front slipping out on turns. That may be my mistake, as I have not found the right pressure yet, nor am I running tubeless. And I'm bad on "trail flow" I hit all the roots, but am still able to keep up with the "team racer" guys.

    What I Need
    That being said anything to improve my confidence in corners, maintain my speed, and eat roots is what I'm looking for. (Specifications)

    What I Have
    I ended up buying a WTB Bronson 2.2 Race, got it for $25, so no complaint. I will be using that front. From what I read, I should have no issue cornering, but it does not seem as fast as the RoRo.

    What I Want
    I was hoping to pick up some speed and save some weight in the rear, all to my previous specifications.



    And to answer your question, I cannot speak of what volume I want. I've only tried one tire. What are recommendations for rear? Is it important that the rear preform well over roots? Or is it a climbing and speed tire?
    I think it is more user error than tire error. The rocket ron tires you are using are some of the best tires for XC racing. Does that mean they are the best type of tire for your riding? I think you would answer this as no. I find the rons stick like glue to hardpack and I can corner extremely fast on them. Like you said you may not have found the right pressure or your riding style and the rons do not mesh well. You did say in an earlier post that you're still new without a lot of trail time. Most ron users have ridden a lot over the years.

    With all of that said, I would try the Bronson on the front and the Ron in the rear. You want more grip in the front. I cannot tell you of a tire that would be lighter and faster than the ron in the rear. The other tires recommend here are fantastic, but they're all in the same category as the ron in terms of speed and weight. You may need more tread on your tires for grip since you're still newer to the sport or simply work on your flow.

    I reread your post and if I were you I would go out alone and work on your flow. You're chasing "team racer" guys and my prediction is you're out of your comfort zone chasing these very fast riders because you're bashing into trail obstacles. A 2.25 Ron will eat roots about as well as any tire in that size unless you want to go w/ a bigger volume 2.4 etc and then you gain tire weight. I recommend working on your form when you're not chasing these very fast people. I think your tires are highly capable of what you're wanting to do.
    Last edited by Rod; 04-05-2013 at 08:15 PM.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fakie1999 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by rnm410 View Post
    "I hear schwalbe is no good tubeless."

    Where did you hear that? This will be my third season running racing ralphs tubeless. Only one slow leak so far, and no flats.
    I'd like to know where he heard that as well. I've been tubeless on Schwalbe tires (Ralphs) since they first came out in 29"er size. Got my first ones back in 2007 - and they are still running today. Ralph 2.4's on my Karate Monkey tubeless.

  21. #21
    Rod
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    I'd like to know where he heard that as well. I've been tubeless on Schwalbe tires (Ralphs) since they first came out in 29"er size. Got my first ones back in 2007 - and they are still running today. Ralph 2.4's on my Karate Monkey tubeless.
    1 in 3 of my friend's tires was bad last year. I believe it was warrantied though.
    There is not much choice between rotten apples.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by rnm410 View Post
    Any word on WTB Nano?
    Why does the Nano(raptor) get no love? Its inexpensive ($35 for the folding), light (mine is 550 g), mounts easy tubeless (on my American Classic rims), wears like iron (4 years and running), and its a great rear for dry to tacky East Coast (my opinion).

    For extremely rocky or rooty, a Crossmark might be a slightly better option.
    My other bike is a /7.

  23. #23
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    I am trying out a Specialized Ground Control 2.3 front and a Specialized Fast Track Control 2.2 rear. I was on The Captain (Control and S-works) last year. I liked The Captain in most situations but it had a bit of rolling resistance on hard pack. The Ground Control front is not quite as good hooking up as The Captain, but not bad if I run it at about 28psi. I run the Fast Track at 25psi and it is great so far. (This Fast Track is the newly redesigned one.) It holds the line, is compliant, and doesn't spin-up too much.

    I ride the Southern Rocky Mountains of Northern New Mexico and a couple of trips up to Colorado, which has an overall damper soil character with less loose rock except down in Durango.

    I used to ride Maxxis product and liked it. I haven't ridden it for a couple of years. I have no experience on Schwalbe tires.

  24. #24
    Rod
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    One last thing that I thought of after reading this. You need to learn how to be smooth before being fast. If you're not smooth you're going to keep plowing into things and it will cause you to crash or bust stuff. By being smooth you will save more energy. Good luck to ya.
    There is not much choice between rotten apples.

  25. #25
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    After my morning business, I will give a report on my progress and reviews.
    Stay tuned.

  26. #26
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    First to answer about Schawable being bad tubeless- heard it from a guy on the trails.


    The previous post were for my first ride since December.
    This is for my second and third ride, Saturday and Sunday respectively.

    Saturday: Mounted my better ron in the front, the trails were damp and hard, but not wet. I found a better pressure, 30 front/35 rear, I noticed better grip, and better damping of roots. But it still felt like the same ole' racing bike. Racers pull 25 min laps out here, I felt my pace was 30, and a strong 30. I was still having the issues through the corners. But I found some good lines in the trail, much smoother.

    Sunday: Same conditions. Same setup, roro front and rear, same pressure. Was somewhat in recovery mode from sat. but still felt the need to ride. Pulling comparable speed as sat. My second ride I mounted up my Bronson on the front, to see if I could notice a difference from the previous lap, and my good roro on the back. What a new animal this bike is! I was faster through the turns- even without using the berms. Recalling what the 25 lap felt like, through sections I know I was moving much faster. This tire has the "grip of the gods" it eats earth and spits it in your face. It loves to lean and burn the turn. Noticeably there was no added weight, nor could I feel added rolling resistance, but by sound you could tell this tire was meaty. I only lost it on one turn, but hey what do you expect indy-bike-style. As for roots- bronson was better, although I like the feel of a roro in the rear, but I could pick up more speed with another bronson.

    Overall: Bronson front/Ron rear 30/35 psi, increased speed, increased confidence, roots no longer an issue, problems with trail flow no more (speed solved that).

    I like this tire setup, I am looking forward to going tubless, and want to thank you all for your suggestions.

    Things I would like to try: WTB Nano rear, Ikon rear, Crossmark rear, RaRa rear.

  27. #27
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    I have raced on the WTB Nano Tubeless.

    Reminded me of the old Michelin XCR Dry II Tubeless: Faster than RaRa's, hooks up much better than it should in most conditions, easy to slide the rear around corners when required, wears very, very quickly
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by beastmaster View Post
    I am trying out a Specialized Ground Control 2.3 front and a Specialized Fast Track Control 2.2 rear. I was on The Captain (Control and S-works) last year. I liked The Captain in most situations but it had a bit of rolling resistance on hard pack. The Ground Control front is not quite as good hooking up as The Captain, but not bad if I run it at about 28psi. I run the Fast Track at 25psi and it is great so far. (This Fast Track is the newly redesigned one.) It holds the line, is compliant, and doesn't spin-up too much.

    I ride the Southern Rocky Mountains of Northern New Mexico and a couple of trips up to Colorado, which has an overall damper soil character with less loose rock except down in Durango.

    I used to ride Maxxis product and liked it. I haven't ridden it for a couple of years. I have no experience on Schwalbe tires.
    Im running the same setup sworks ground control/fast trak with stans at about 27psi, really digging it so far!!!!

  29. #29
    Rod
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    I don't know your weight, but 30 front/35 rear pressure is more than most run on a 29er. Try lowering the tires 2 psi and ride it. You should gain more traction and it should be a smoother ride. If you don't pinch flat or the tires don't squirm lower both tires 2 psi again. If that works just keep lowering the pressure. Once you feel the tire or tires squirm or pinch flat or feel the rim on a root or rock increase the pressure 2-3 psi so that won't happen again.

    I weigh 160 and I am running 20-22 front and 25 rear or so, but I'm running tubeless. I still think I could run this pressure with tubes too. I'm running big 2.2 tires.
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  30. #30
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    Has anyone tried the Ritchey Shields? The center tread looks similar to a Conti Race King, but with larger cornering knobs. I am mostly looking for something with low rolling resistance, tough sidewalls and punctures resistant (I'm a very aggressive descender), weight is less of a concern for me.

  31. #31
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    I'm running Specialized Renegade S-works. They're both 1.95's and weighing around 450 grams each. I was a little concerned at first with the micro knobbies but so far they seem to grab very good in most conditions. I have'nt raced them in mud yet but I'm sure I'll be in for a wild ride! I used to race with Crossmark's and they were a great all around tire but I wanted something a little more weight weenie ish. Where the Renegades really shine is on a course that has a lot of climbs.

  32. #32
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    Lol, the Crossmark has paper thin sidewalls that I would destroy within a couple of miles of riding, I wouldn't call it an 'all around tire'. If the renegade is lighter, it would definitely not be an option for me, as I ride more technical, rocky XC races. I was going to try the Conti RaceKing Protection, but I was a little afraid of the lack of cornering knobs, so I am going to try an X-King protection in the back and an Racing Ralph Snakeskin in the front. I kinda wish conti had a tire with the center tread of the RaceKing and the cornering knobs of the X-King, but it looks like the X-King will still be fairly fast.

  33. #33
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    Yes, I do agree that the sidewalls are thin but if you want a lightweight tire they're all pretty thin. Since you opened with a LOL I guess I have a right to respond to your opinion. Yes the crossmark is a perfect all around tire! How do I know? you ask.....Because I live in West Virginia home to some of the rockiest race courses in the country. I never had any problems with the sidewalls. The key is to ride over the obstacles not through!

  34. #34
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    Your East Coast rocks are weathered and rounded and friendly out there. It's not like Arizona, New Mexico, Utah, Western Colorado, where the rocks have sharp knife edges. I'm looking for something that has an small XC tread with good rolling resistance, but I prefer something with tough sidewalls, because the time lost on the climb due to the weight difference is much smaller than the time lost on the descent having to sandbag with thin tires.

  35. #35
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    I have yet to see a "friendly" rock.

  36. #36
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    Re: Rear Tire Recommendations 29er Tubeless

    Quote Originally Posted by dthomp325 View Post
    Your East Coast rocks are weathered and rounded and friendly out there. It's not like Arizona, New Mexico, Utah, Western Colorado, where the rocks have sharp knife edges. I'm looking for something that has an small XC tread with good rolling resistance, but I prefer something with tough sidewalls, because the time lost on the climb due to the weight difference is much smaller than the time lost on the descent having to sandbag with thin tires.
    The Renegade Control should be fine then.

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  37. #37
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    Riding in PA for three years, I never cut a sidewall. (I did cut one in MD). 9 months of riding in Utah, and I've cut 5 sidewalls. The rocks back east are indeed friendlier. Overall, right now, I like the Conti X-king with protection. The 2.4 grips loose gravel out here better than my nobby nic ever did (and the tread blocks don't tear out like NN either), and the 2.2 grips almost as well, but rolls pretty fast.

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