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  1. #1
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    Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    While I would love to spring for an XX1 or XO1 setup, the $1200 to $1500 retail prices are just too outside of what I am willing to spend. Besides, I don't even know if it would be a good fit for me.

    So I am wondering if I should try a 1x10 setup first. Maybe get the XX1 or XO1 cranks with my 11-36 10 spd X9 type 2 RD. I currently have a 2x10 with 26/38 on the front. I know I will be loosing the lowest of the low, but if I went with the 30T, I think it could work. By the way, I live and race in the intermountain west.

    Any thoughts on a 1x10 for racing?

  2. #2
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    I just converted to 1x10. I installed a 34 tooth Wolftooth on my XT crank and love it with the 11-36 cassette and XT Shadow+ rear mech. I love the simplicity, the clean look, and the weight savings. The 34 works fine for me because I rarely race over 2 hours. If I were doing more endurance racing I would go with the 32 tooth.

  3. #3
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    You can get XX1 for under $600 on eBay and Amazon, sans cranks.

  4. #4
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    Racing a 1x10 anyone?-photo.jpgi converted to 1x10 for roughly 300 bucks. i bought a type 2 rear derailleur for around 200 bucks brand new on ebay and then found a xx1 spider and chainring on ebay for 100 basically brand new(black ano on chainring was not rubbed off at all) i already had an x0 crank which has the removable spider so the swap was very easy and i didnt have to shell out for an entire crank.

  5. #5
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    Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    There is also a 42 tooth rear cog option on the horizon from One Up components so your range would be 11-42 on the cassette. By my calculation that puts the low end gearing with a 30 ring and 42 rear at the same ratio as a 26 granny and 36 rear. If you feel you don't need that much granny then you can go 32 or 34 chainring for a bit more top end. With my 34 ring and 11 rear cog I don't even spin out until I'm close to 30 mph.

  6. #6
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    Here are some alternatives I have found which might be interesting.

    As I mentioned above, I have an XT 2x10 785 (104/64BCD) crankset rolling a 29er.

    Wolf Tooth makes a 30 tooth narrow-wide pattern 1x ring.

    There is the new One Up 42 tooth rear cog which would fit my cassette/hub.

    I already have the type 2 Sram rear derailleur which "could" have enough overall range to handle a 1x11 setup (or so says One Up!).

    That would give me a 1x10 setup with a HUGE bailout gear for super steeps for about $150! I think I might just have to try it!
    Last edited by beastmaster; 12-04-2013 at 11:47 AM.

  7. #7
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    One up makes it a ten speed cassette still, you pull your 17t. I've been debating this for a while. There are so many climbs by me that I prefer to spin up in the 26/36 combo, I also would want bigger than 32/11 as my big gear, that's where the XX1 setup shines.

    My plan is to wear out my current drivetrain then use my XT crank with a wolftooth and switch the rest of the drivetrain to an X01/XX1 mix.

  8. #8
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    Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    Beat me to it. It's still a 1x10 but with a greater range of gears. The disadvantage is that you have bigger jumps between gears. I still think it's a great interim solution though for not much money...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by zippinveedub View Post
    There are so many climbs by me that I prefer to spin up in the 26/36 combo, I also would want bigger than 32/11 as my big gear, that's where the XX1 setup shines.
    I thought the same thing about 32:11 as my biggest geAr. But in all reality I stay on gears 2-7. In my 32:11 gear in an spin up to about 25-28 mph without getting bouncy in the saddle from spinning to fast. I think for a Mtb anything over 25 is useless unless you ride really smooth trails and can keep that kind of speed for a good distance. I find myself between 10 and about 20-21 mph on most trails.

  10. #10
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    I raced the eastern NUE series along with couple 12hr races on 1x10. 34 front q-ring and did really well. If you don't like occasionally standing then it may not be for you.

    I will be running a xx1 drivetrain this year.
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  11. #11
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    I raced my 11-36 with a 32T ring. I never spun out the top gear, but after ~3hrs I was wishing I had a lower gear so I'm going to try a 30T ring next year.

    Edit: This is on a 29er

  12. #12
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    Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ryandurep View Post
    I thought the same thing about 32:11 as my biggest geAr. But in all reality I stay on gears 2-7. In my 32:11 gear in an spin up to about 25-28 mph without getting bouncy in the saddle from spinning to fast. I think for a Mtb anything over 25 is useless unless you ride really smooth trails and can keep that kind of speed for a good distance. I find myself between 10 and about 20-21 mph on most trails.
    I couldn't agree with this more! I know of a few in my area who went with a 38 chainring because we're flat landers and they didn't wanna sacrifice top end, but I don't think the math was done. A quick lap at most trails averages 13-14mph, and I know for a fact there are only a few instances where 20+ is sustained, let alone 25+. In my view by going so big on the chainring all one does is constantly use the top half of the cassette and constantly ride with a compromised chain line. That's why I specifically chose a 34, as it gives me the best chainline for my most frequently used gears. When I head to the mountains I'll probably run a 32 with the One-Up 42 tooth cog.

  13. #13
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    Re: Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    What size wheels are you guys on? All this chainring talk is kinda useless without wheel size..

  14. #14
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    Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    You're right. Can't speak for others but I'm talking 29 for all examples I posted. Obviously smaller wheels require bigger chainrings for a given speed at a given cadence...

  15. #15
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    Re: Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    Quote Originally Posted by GT5050 View Post
    You're right. Can't speak for others but I'm talking 29 for all examples I posted. Obviously smaller wheels require bigger chainrings for a given speed at a given cadence...
    Thanks. I figured y'all were talking about 29ers but just wanted to be sure!

    I'll be racing 1x10 for the first time next season on a 29er ht....running a 30t now but considering making the jump to 32 or 34 if I can improve my fitness enough. I don't mind mashing on short climbs, and a lot of the courses here have some xc ski trail sections for passing and the top end would be nice

  16. #16
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    I run 1x10 when I run gears, 32 tooth chainring with an 11-36 cassette. If I can't climb something with this in a race I should be running it, not riding it. I'm on a Hardtail 29'er.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8iking VIIking View Post
    Thanks. I figured y'all were talking about 29ers but just wanted to be sure!

    I'll be racing 1x10 for the first time next season on a 29er ht....running a 30t now but considering making the jump to 32 or 34 if I can improve my fitness enough. I don't mind mashing on short climbs, and a lot of the courses here have some xc ski trail sections for passing and the top end would be nice
    29er superfly for me, im really happy with 32 chain ring and 11-36. just as you said, i stand and mash if i need too and as for top end, i can hold 25 for maybe a half mile, 32 x 11 is alot of topend for me.

  18. #18
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    Been on 1x10 for years now, as has wife. 34x11-36. Been fine for XC racing. When traveling on vacation or an unknown race, I toss a 32 on there.

    This year I've been using a RF narrow/wide ring to lose the chain guard (E13 XCX). No dropped chains.

    Wife's now on XX1, which also works beautifully. But, if you already have some parts, a switch to 1x10 is cheap. Besides, a 10T go is stupid. I'd much rather the XX1 stuff be 11-36 or 11-42. Then you get a bit closer gear spacing.

  19. #19
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    Re: Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    Quote Originally Posted by briscoelab View Post
    I'd much rather the XX1 stuff be 11-36 or 11-42. Then you get a bit closer gear spacing.
    Closer gear spacing??? We are talking about mountain bikes right...?

    I wish someone would make a dedicated 10 speed 11-42 cassette

  20. #20
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    Yea, 11-36 is about the limit of what I can tolerate on a geared MTB. It's the same as an 11-32 9 speed, with a 36T thrown on there for good measure.

    The 10-42 gives you a near useless 10T, and adds a bigger 42T top end cog. So, you're effectively dropping two middle gears. I still think they should have started with an 11T small cog.

    But of course, then they wouldn't have had the excuse to make the new hub driver. They were limited in this regard because shimano had not yet released the 11 speed free hub standard that Sram would inevitably have to follow for their road and cx products.

    I race and ride a lot of SS MTB, but if I'm going to carry the added weight of gears, I want them to work in an efficient manner.

    That said, I'll probably end up on XX1 this next season when I need new parts.

  21. #21
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    Re: Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    Quote Originally Posted by briscoelab View Post
    Yea, 11-36 is about the limit of what I can tolerate on a geared MTB. It's the same as an 11-32 9 speed, with a 36T thrown on there for good measure.

    The 10-42 gives you a near useless 10T, and adds a bigger 42T top end cog. So, you're effectively dropping two middle gears. I still think they should have started with an 11T small cog.

    But of course, then they wouldn't have had the excuse to make the new hub driver. They were limited in this regard because shimano had not yet released the 11 speed free hub standard that Sram would inevitably have to follow for their road and cx products.

    I race and ride a lot of SS MTB, but if I'm going to carry the added weight of gears, I want them to work in an efficient manner.

    That said, I'll probably end up on XX1 this next season when I need new parts.
    Agreed on the 11t instead of 10t. I just think if they made a 11-42t 10 sp cassette it would pretty much eliminate the need for 11 speed for most riders. I think most riders would rather have wider range than closer gearing. I can't say I've ever thought to myself "I wish these gears weren't so far apart" while on a MTB ride

  22. #22
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    Now I'm inspired to try it. Anyone running a narrow wide with a non clutched XTR derailleur?

  23. #23
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    I've been riding and racing 1x9 or 1x10 for 3 years now. No issues yet, including several 50 mile races, and the Park City PTP. My race bike has an 11x36 cassette. For the PTP race, I did go down to a 28T front ring with the 12,000+ feet of climbing, but typically use a 30T. I have only used the 30X11 combination in one race that I remember. Usually going 30MPH downhill doesn't really need any extra speed on real MTB courses I've ridden on. I'm usually using the breaks more than the cranks, so I haven't found the lack of range limiting.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by beastmaster View Post
    While I would love to spring for an XX1 or XO1 setup, the $1200 to $1500 retail prices are just too outside of what I am willing to spend. Besides, I don't even know if it would be a good fit for me.

    So I am wondering if I should try a 1x10 setup first. Maybe get the XX1 or XO1 cranks with my 11-36 10 spd X9 type 2 RD. I currently have a 2x10 with 26/38 on the front. I know I will be loosing the lowest of the low, but if I went with the 30T, I think it could work. By the way, I live and race in the intermountain west.

    Any thoughts on a 1x10 for racing?
    In terms of gearing and the range of gearing, what is your current 2 x 10 not providing for you?

  25. #25
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    For my 29er race bike I did 1x10 last year with xtr derailleur clutch, 11-36 cassette, xtr crank with 34T ring. For some of my lower elevation or shorter races it was just fine. I idiotically took the gearing to a western NUE with over 7000' climbing and knew I was in trouble when I saw 2x10, 1x11 with 30T and even triples.

    After the race season I tried a 30T with 11-36. Muuuuuch better for my legs and ability and trails.

    This year my "marathon" bike is 1x11 with a 30T and 32T option. As others have stated the 10T isn't ideal and I was looking for more on the low end instead of the highend. We have a lot of super fast fireroad sections I'm sure that 10T will be used with the 30 or 32 up front.

    Save some money and go X01 rear D, cassette and shifter, and use a single ring on your current crank and 10sp chain.

    I have a 2x10 (38/26) with 11-36 and overall it's a win-win for those not concerned about weight compared to a 1x....but I would've gladly taken the weight penalty in that high elevation 50 miler instead of the walking, leg cramps and horrible finish.
    Last edited by westin; 12-05-2013 at 05:11 AM.

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