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  1. #1
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    Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    While I would love to spring for an XX1 or XO1 setup, the $1200 to $1500 retail prices are just too outside of what I am willing to spend. Besides, I don't even know if it would be a good fit for me.

    So I am wondering if I should try a 1x10 setup first. Maybe get the XX1 or XO1 cranks with my 11-36 10 spd X9 type 2 RD. I currently have a 2x10 with 26/38 on the front. I know I will be loosing the lowest of the low, but if I went with the 30T, I think it could work. By the way, I live and race in the intermountain west.

    Any thoughts on a 1x10 for racing?

  2. #2
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    I just converted to 1x10. I installed a 34 tooth Wolftooth on my XT crank and love it with the 11-36 cassette and XT Shadow+ rear mech. I love the simplicity, the clean look, and the weight savings. The 34 works fine for me because I rarely race over 2 hours. If I were doing more endurance racing I would go with the 32 tooth.

  3. #3
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    You can get XX1 for under $600 on eBay and Amazon, sans cranks.
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  4. #4
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    Racing a 1x10 anyone?-photo.jpgi converted to 1x10 for roughly 300 bucks. i bought a type 2 rear derailleur for around 200 bucks brand new on ebay and then found a xx1 spider and chainring on ebay for 100 basically brand new(black ano on chainring was not rubbed off at all) i already had an x0 crank which has the removable spider so the swap was very easy and i didnt have to shell out for an entire crank.

  5. #5
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    Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    There is also a 42 tooth rear cog option on the horizon from One Up components so your range would be 11-42 on the cassette. By my calculation that puts the low end gearing with a 30 ring and 42 rear at the same ratio as a 26 granny and 36 rear. If you feel you don't need that much granny then you can go 32 or 34 chainring for a bit more top end. With my 34 ring and 11 rear cog I don't even spin out until I'm close to 30 mph.

  6. #6
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    Here are some alternatives I have found which might be interesting.

    As I mentioned above, I have an XT 2x10 785 (104/64BCD) crankset rolling a 29er.

    Wolf Tooth makes a 30 tooth narrow-wide pattern 1x ring.

    There is the new One Up 42 tooth rear cog which would fit my cassette/hub.

    I already have the type 2 Sram rear derailleur which "could" have enough overall range to handle a 1x11 setup (or so says One Up!).

    That would give me a 1x10 setup with a HUGE bailout gear for super steeps for about $150! I think I might just have to try it!
    Last edited by beastmaster; 12-04-2013 at 12:47 PM.

  7. #7
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    One up makes it a ten speed cassette still, you pull your 17t. I've been debating this for a while. There are so many climbs by me that I prefer to spin up in the 26/36 combo, I also would want bigger than 32/11 as my big gear, that's where the XX1 setup shines.

    My plan is to wear out my current drivetrain then use my XT crank with a wolftooth and switch the rest of the drivetrain to an X01/XX1 mix.

  8. #8
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    Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    Beat me to it. It's still a 1x10 but with a greater range of gears. The disadvantage is that you have bigger jumps between gears. I still think it's a great interim solution though for not much money...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by zippinveedub View Post
    There are so many climbs by me that I prefer to spin up in the 26/36 combo, I also would want bigger than 32/11 as my big gear, that's where the XX1 setup shines.
    I thought the same thing about 32:11 as my biggest geAr. But in all reality I stay on gears 2-7. In my 32:11 gear in an spin up to about 25-28 mph without getting bouncy in the saddle from spinning to fast. I think for a Mtb anything over 25 is useless unless you ride really smooth trails and can keep that kind of speed for a good distance. I find myself between 10 and about 20-21 mph on most trails.

  10. #10
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    I raced the eastern NUE series along with couple 12hr races on 1x10. 34 front q-ring and did really well. If you don't like occasionally standing then it may not be for you.

    I will be running a xx1 drivetrain this year.
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  11. #11
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    I raced my 11-36 with a 32T ring. I never spun out the top gear, but after ~3hrs I was wishing I had a lower gear so I'm going to try a 30T ring next year.

    Edit: This is on a 29er

  12. #12
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    Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ryandurep View Post
    I thought the same thing about 32:11 as my biggest geAr. But in all reality I stay on gears 2-7. In my 32:11 gear in an spin up to about 25-28 mph without getting bouncy in the saddle from spinning to fast. I think for a Mtb anything over 25 is useless unless you ride really smooth trails and can keep that kind of speed for a good distance. I find myself between 10 and about 20-21 mph on most trails.
    I couldn't agree with this more! I know of a few in my area who went with a 38 chainring because we're flat landers and they didn't wanna sacrifice top end, but I don't think the math was done. A quick lap at most trails averages 13-14mph, and I know for a fact there are only a few instances where 20+ is sustained, let alone 25+. In my view by going so big on the chainring all one does is constantly use the top half of the cassette and constantly ride with a compromised chain line. That's why I specifically chose a 34, as it gives me the best chainline for my most frequently used gears. When I head to the mountains I'll probably run a 32 with the One-Up 42 tooth cog.

  13. #13
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    Re: Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    What size wheels are you guys on? All this chainring talk is kinda useless without wheel size..

  14. #14
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    Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    You're right. Can't speak for others but I'm talking 29 for all examples I posted. Obviously smaller wheels require bigger chainrings for a given speed at a given cadence...

  15. #15
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    Re: Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    Quote Originally Posted by GT5050 View Post
    You're right. Can't speak for others but I'm talking 29 for all examples I posted. Obviously smaller wheels require bigger chainrings for a given speed at a given cadence...
    Thanks. I figured y'all were talking about 29ers but just wanted to be sure!

    I'll be racing 1x10 for the first time next season on a 29er ht....running a 30t now but considering making the jump to 32 or 34 if I can improve my fitness enough. I don't mind mashing on short climbs, and a lot of the courses here have some xc ski trail sections for passing and the top end would be nice

  16. #16
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    I run 1x10 when I run gears, 32 tooth chainring with an 11-36 cassette. If I can't climb something with this in a race I should be running it, not riding it. I'm on a Hardtail 29'er.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8iking VIIking View Post
    Thanks. I figured y'all were talking about 29ers but just wanted to be sure!

    I'll be racing 1x10 for the first time next season on a 29er ht....running a 30t now but considering making the jump to 32 or 34 if I can improve my fitness enough. I don't mind mashing on short climbs, and a lot of the courses here have some xc ski trail sections for passing and the top end would be nice
    29er superfly for me, im really happy with 32 chain ring and 11-36. just as you said, i stand and mash if i need too and as for top end, i can hold 25 for maybe a half mile, 32 x 11 is alot of topend for me.

  18. #18
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    Been on 1x10 for years now, as has wife. 34x11-36. Been fine for XC racing. When traveling on vacation or an unknown race, I toss a 32 on there.

    This year I've been using a RF narrow/wide ring to lose the chain guard (E13 XCX). No dropped chains.

    Wife's now on XX1, which also works beautifully. But, if you already have some parts, a switch to 1x10 is cheap. Besides, a 10T go is stupid. I'd much rather the XX1 stuff be 11-36 or 11-42. Then you get a bit closer gear spacing.

  19. #19
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    Re: Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    Quote Originally Posted by briscoelab View Post
    I'd much rather the XX1 stuff be 11-36 or 11-42. Then you get a bit closer gear spacing.
    Closer gear spacing??? We are talking about mountain bikes right...?

    I wish someone would make a dedicated 10 speed 11-42 cassette

  20. #20
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    Yea, 11-36 is about the limit of what I can tolerate on a geared MTB. It's the same as an 11-32 9 speed, with a 36T thrown on there for good measure.

    The 10-42 gives you a near useless 10T, and adds a bigger 42T top end cog. So, you're effectively dropping two middle gears. I still think they should have started with an 11T small cog.

    But of course, then they wouldn't have had the excuse to make the new hub driver. They were limited in this regard because shimano had not yet released the 11 speed free hub standard that Sram would inevitably have to follow for their road and cx products.

    I race and ride a lot of SS MTB, but if I'm going to carry the added weight of gears, I want them to work in an efficient manner.

    That said, I'll probably end up on XX1 this next season when I need new parts.

  21. #21
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    Re: Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    Quote Originally Posted by briscoelab View Post
    Yea, 11-36 is about the limit of what I can tolerate on a geared MTB. It's the same as an 11-32 9 speed, with a 36T thrown on there for good measure.

    The 10-42 gives you a near useless 10T, and adds a bigger 42T top end cog. So, you're effectively dropping two middle gears. I still think they should have started with an 11T small cog.

    But of course, then they wouldn't have had the excuse to make the new hub driver. They were limited in this regard because shimano had not yet released the 11 speed free hub standard that Sram would inevitably have to follow for their road and cx products.

    I race and ride a lot of SS MTB, but if I'm going to carry the added weight of gears, I want them to work in an efficient manner.

    That said, I'll probably end up on XX1 this next season when I need new parts.
    Agreed on the 11t instead of 10t. I just think if they made a 11-42t 10 sp cassette it would pretty much eliminate the need for 11 speed for most riders. I think most riders would rather have wider range than closer gearing. I can't say I've ever thought to myself "I wish these gears weren't so far apart" while on a MTB ride

  22. #22
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    Now I'm inspired to try it. Anyone running a narrow wide with a non clutched XTR derailleur?

  23. #23
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    I've been riding and racing 1x9 or 1x10 for 3 years now. No issues yet, including several 50 mile races, and the Park City PTP. My race bike has an 11x36 cassette. For the PTP race, I did go down to a 28T front ring with the 12,000+ feet of climbing, but typically use a 30T. I have only used the 30X11 combination in one race that I remember. Usually going 30MPH downhill doesn't really need any extra speed on real MTB courses I've ridden on. I'm usually using the breaks more than the cranks, so I haven't found the lack of range limiting.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by beastmaster View Post
    While I would love to spring for an XX1 or XO1 setup, the $1200 to $1500 retail prices are just too outside of what I am willing to spend. Besides, I don't even know if it would be a good fit for me.

    So I am wondering if I should try a 1x10 setup first. Maybe get the XX1 or XO1 cranks with my 11-36 10 spd X9 type 2 RD. I currently have a 2x10 with 26/38 on the front. I know I will be loosing the lowest of the low, but if I went with the 30T, I think it could work. By the way, I live and race in the intermountain west.

    Any thoughts on a 1x10 for racing?
    In terms of gearing and the range of gearing, what is your current 2 x 10 not providing for you?

  25. #25
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    For my 29er race bike I did 1x10 last year with xtr derailleur clutch, 11-36 cassette, xtr crank with 34T ring. For some of my lower elevation or shorter races it was just fine. I idiotically took the gearing to a western NUE with over 7000' climbing and knew I was in trouble when I saw 2x10, 1x11 with 30T and even triples.

    After the race season I tried a 30T with 11-36. Muuuuuch better for my legs and ability and trails.

    This year my "marathon" bike is 1x11 with a 30T and 32T option. As others have stated the 10T isn't ideal and I was looking for more on the low end instead of the highend. We have a lot of super fast fireroad sections I'm sure that 10T will be used with the 30 or 32 up front.

    Save some money and go X01 rear D, cassette and shifter, and use a single ring on your current crank and 10sp chain.

    I have a 2x10 (38/26) with 11-36 and overall it's a win-win for those not concerned about weight compared to a 1x....but I would've gladly taken the weight penalty in that high elevation 50 miler instead of the walking, leg cramps and horrible finish.
    Last edited by westin; 12-05-2013 at 06:11 AM.

  26. #26
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    Running a 1x10 Shadow Plus XTR setup w/32T Wolf chainring and 11-36 cassette (No complaints) ..


  27. #27
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    Your pic just reminded me to get a pair of RF boots for my S Works crank! I'm running 32T, the WolfT direct mount. Weighs 70 grams.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by beastmaster View Post
    While I would love to spring for an XX1 or XO1 setup, the $1200 to $1500 retail prices are just too outside of what I am willing to spend. Besides, I don't even know if it would be a good fit for me.

    So I am wondering if I should try a 1x10 setup first. Maybe get the XX1 or XO1 cranks with my 11-36 10 spd X9 type 2 RD. I currently have a 2x10 with 26/38 on the front. I know I will be loosing the lowest of the low, but if I went with the 30T, I think it could work. By the way, I live and race in the intermountain west.

    Any thoughts on a 1x10 for racing?
    The 2 male riders that won collegiate nationals in North Carolina XC & Short track respectively were on 1x10 drivetrains 11-36....

  29. #29
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    I'm betting the 2 male riders who got the job done on that day could've taken home the win on a 2x10.

  30. #30
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    Most likely. Their fitness won the trophies, not so much the bike(although it does play a factor)

  31. #31
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    Re: Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    Quote Originally Posted by westin View Post
    I'm betting the 2 male riders who got the job done on that day could've taken home the win on a 2x10.
    Probably. They probably could've also won on a 3x9. But why add the complexity and extra weight of a front shifter and derailleur if your legs and terrain allow for 1x10?

  32. #32
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    What is the justification for the huge price discrepancies between some of these model options? Just curious...
    "An inconvenience is an adventure wrongly considered." G.K. Chesterton

  33. #33
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    1x10 for several years now. Running a 36t ring (on a 27.5" wheel bike), 11-36 cassette. Plenty of range for even endurance racing in the mountains, but I know that gearing for climbing is fitness-dependent.

  34. #34
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    Scale of economics?
    A lot of marketing
    Supply and demand based on word of mouth and ego.

    Maybe "all of the above" but I'm thinking the last one drives pricing.

    I got passed by a guy aboard a 3x8 26er HT with V brakes and a 2" elastomer fork on Hour #6 of a marathon. I remember smiling then laughing and looking down at my $$$$ carbon wunderbike thinking how I am part of the must-have pricing structure.

    Quote Originally Posted by Warshade View Post
    What is the justification for the huge price discrepancies between some of these model options? Just curious...

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by westin View Post
    Scale of economics?
    A lot of marketing
    Supply and demand based on word of mouth and ego.

    Maybe "all of the above" but I'm thinking the last one drives pricing.
    This. Everyone wants the latest and greatest, heck i fell for half of it(didnt get 11 speed)

  36. #36
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    My coach is a multi-time national and world champion podium finisher in road, mtb and XTerra, and he told me to race with a 2x10 in many of our events. I didn't listen, had to show up with 1x....and I paid the price. He did Marathon Nationals on XX1, but it was sponsor obligation and went back to 2x after that race. His wife is a super studette and showed up at the NUE round in Galena on a triple crank!!! I hadn't seen one of those, especially XTR, in years! Yeah, she destroyed me, too.

    It just depends on what you feel comfortable with and how much you're willing to pay in terms of money and personal pain. No right or wrong.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by westin View Post
    I'm betting the 2 male riders who got the job done on that day could've taken home the win on a 2x10.

    I'm sure they wouldn't of had any issues with 2x gearing, but they had no need for it. They both spent the collegiate season dominating the Rocky Mountain Conference Series (with long mountain climbs) on a 1x set up. They had previously raced the 'normal' racing season with 2x set-ups and as Collegiate racing is a bit shorter (closer to XCO) there was no real need for the 2x or the weight. I believe they'll be back on 2x10 setups for this coming season.

  38. #38
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    That's interesting. Here in the ACCC (east coast) I find our races to be as long as, if not longer than the local expert races.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by zippinveedub View Post
    That's interesting. Here in the ACCC (east coast) I find our races to be as long as, if not longer than the local expert races.
    You should have a chat with your conference & race directors. The last 3 or so National championships have been very short races (relatively speaking). This years XC race was won in 1:19. They've been typically under 2 hours easily. Particularly with the race in NC again next year and the tight schedule for collegiate racing, they are going to err on things being shorter rather than longer.

  40. #40
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    I'm graduating this year but I'll mention it to them. The race I ran was about that long for the winning time but a few of the races were almost 2.5 hours.

    Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

  41. #41
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    I went from a 3x9 setup to 2x10 and just never felt comfortable on the 38T ring up front. On the 3x9 setup 99% of my riding would be in the 32 ring up front, so It made perfect sense to change the 2x10 to 1x10. The Simplicity of it is the biggest plus. I raced Cat2 on it all season in the midwest on a 26er and did well.

    Now I'm shopping for a carbon hardtail 29er for the coming season and the options I'm finding are either 2x10 XT - XTR or XX1,XO1. I really wish I could just find a ready to race bike already setup 1x10!! I know there are a few, but none that are sold by my race team bike shop.

  42. #42
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    Put a RaceFace 104bcd ring on that 2x10 XT crankset. Done deal.

    Quote Originally Posted by xterrafreak View Post
    I went from a 3x9 setup to 2x10 and just never felt comfortable on the 38T ring up front. On the 3x9 setup 99% of my riding would be in the 32 ring up front, so It made perfect sense to change the 2x10 to 1x10. The Simplicity of it is the biggest plus. I raced Cat2 on it all season in the midwest on a 26er and did well.

    Now I'm shopping for a carbon hardtail 29er for the coming season and the options I'm finding are either 2x10 XT - XTR or XX1,XO1. I really wish I could just find a ready to race bike already setup 1x10!! I know there are a few, but none that are sold by my race team bike shop.

  43. #43
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    Re: Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    Quote Originally Posted by westin View Post
    Put a RaceFace 104bcd ring on that 2x10 XT crankset. Done deal.
    This

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by westin View Post
    Put a RaceFace 104bcd ring on that 2x10 XT crankset. Done deal.
    Of course, you're correct. I was thinking that I'd have to get a clutch rear der but it looks like all the new stuff is already shadow+. Thanks! The 3 star Niner Air9 RDO looks to be the winner. American Classic race wheels, all XT drivetrain and SID XX fork!

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    Good job!

    Thank you everyone for sharing your experiences with me. MTBR is a wonderful asset, full of the rich wealth of personal stories.

    Last summer at one point I had to replace the small ring (26T) on my XT 2x10. It was quite difficult to find a replacement because it was while Shimano was taking their North American distribution in-house primarily. So I disabled my FD and rode with just the 38 for a week. I found I was able to ride all of the super steeps except those that are quite long (1 mile was the limit). In these super steep climbs it was kind of like single speeding; stand up and crank! Long story short: I know I have the power/strength and endurance to handle a single front with the 11-36 rear.

    So I just purchased a Wolf Tooth wide-narrow 32T front chainring. It will be fun to see how it works out.

    Thank you all again for your valuable input.

  46. #46
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    Racing a 1x10 anyone?

    It's gonna be awesome!

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    Quote Originally Posted by zippinveedub View Post
    Now I'm inspired to try it. Anyone running a narrow wide with a non clutched XTR derailleur?
    I run a narrow wide with a non clutched SRAM X9. I also have a modified Jump Stop on top acting as a chainguide and I've never dropped my chain. Without the chainguide it drops quite frequently though.

    Also, to add another gearing data point to this thread:
    I did 1 race w/ a 1x8 (11-32t) and 34t chainring up front in WI last year.
    I could have used a taller gear for some climbs, but I also barely did any training and wasn't really in shape. Didn't ever need the 11t, I think.

    This year I'm planning to train more seriously and enter 3 races in IL. I'm going to run a 1x9 11-34t cassette, and either a 36t narrow wide, or 27/39t.
    Undecided right now but leaning towards the 36t 1x9.

    All on a 26" hardtail. With v-brakes
    Last edited by alexzhu1; 12-09-2013 at 11:36 AM.

  48. #48
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    I'm on a 29er HT. Racing in Midwest last year on a 1x10 setup with RF Narrow-Wide 32t ring with regular X9 derailleur. 11-36 cassette. No dropped chains and the gearing is fine. I don't miss my 3x10 at all.

    This whole conversion cost me about $35.

  49. #49
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    Yes. Was on a 1 X 9 before this cheap and effective 1 X 10. I also advocate for squats, deadlifts, pistols, so my support is suspect...

    stock SLX crank
    Wolf Tooth 34 or 36; BBG bash
    XT 11-36
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  50. #50
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    I picked up a full XX1 kit on eBay for $900. I sold my Sram XX parts on eBay for $625. Cost to upgrade: $275. It was well worth the cost! It is simpler, quieter, and less maintenance, less chain slap on descents, less mud issues, I could go on. I gave up only my highest gear which I never use in races anyway (its the pavement ride home gear).

  51. #51
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    I'm excited to make the move to XX1 after reading all of the good reviews (here and elsewhere). However I do admit that I am concerned about the gearing. I currently have a standard 2x10 set up. 38-26 x 11-36 I think. On an average training ride, I use my biggest gear - and sometimes wish I had even bigger when it gets smooth and flat or I hit pavement - and I also use my lowest gear - it can get pretty steep in some places out here in So. CA. So regardless of what chainring I run, I think I am going to be wishing I had gears I won't have. Hopefully all of the other pros offset this con. We'll see...

  52. #52
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    I am 1x10 with a 32T XX1 crank and 11-36 cassette with XT RD w/ clutch on 29" wheels.

    Like many have said. I spin out at around 25mph or so with 32x11. Very rarely does that happen while mountain biking, and I am more likely to be not pedaling or braking at 25 mph anyways. On the rides to and from the trail on the road I spin out pretty frequently though if I have a decent tailwind.

    The 32x36 has been working out pretty well for me so far. For me going to a granny gear doesn't make climbing any easier, it just takes longer, if the climb is long and steep enough I am usually spent either way.

    I told myself that I would go to full XX1 if I couldn't do any of the climbs in the race series with 32x36 without walking and I didn't have to walk. I'm in the midwest near St. Louis so YMMV.

  53. #53
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    Myself and seval buddies have been running 1x10 converted drivetrains for several months now with absolutely no issues. Pick your ration depending on how strong you are and where you ride. SRAM and shimano both work awesome, just need a clutch rr derailer and a narrow wide ring.. I'll NEVER EVER go back to a front derailer setup.

  54. #54
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    Update….

    As I planned the annual bike teardown, I discovered a small crack in the drive side carbon chain stay. The Trek warranty covered it. Lucky for me, last summer I also purchased an extra set of chain and seat stays. The warrantied component had a different APB pivot diameter. The newly-purchased set of stays came with the larger diameter APB pivot too! So now I have a new setup of stays (and an extra chain stay to boot!). Cool!

    The suspension was sent back to Fox for a complete overhaul, as the local shop couldn't service the fork bushings correctly and set up the shock with the correct Nitrogen charging. That all went fine and everything is back from Fox.

    Next, I chucked the old Avid brakes which had some very strange characteristics (highly temperature reactive and prone to massive brake fade). Replaced the system with XT with Ice Tech rotors.

    Wolf Tooth 30T ring on my XT 180 cranks with a new 11-36 cassette and chain with my old type-2 sram RD.

    New cables, greased, cleaned throughout, torqued, and ready to ride! Snow sucks these days (hopefully not for long!) so I might have to jump on it soon! I am excited for the new 1x10 setup!!!

    With everything, the bike should be significantly lighter now (already did wheels). It might be in the -24lbs range. The removal of FD, shifter, cables, and double rings should drop about 1/2 to 3/4 lbs? Of course, I am still on it at 190lbs ready-to-ride!

  55. #55
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    1x10

    Pros:
    Reliability*
    Weight

    Cons:
    Risk of cadence inefficiency


    *First of all with the narrow-wide chainrings besides the original XX1, they are very good, but not as reliable as the original. I'm not a SRAM rep, but I do own XX1 on my FS, and have a Wolf Tooth 34t ring on my hardtail, plus a 44t on my commuter. I have never dropped the chain with XX1, but dropped it a couple times on each of the Wolf Tooth-equipped bikes. That said, it's better than a chain guide, which has a chance to get tangled with a drop chain and be an even worse situation during a race.

    Weight, yes dropping 3/4 of a pound off your bike is a significant advantage.

    Cadence inefficiency: If you have to drop below 60RPM, on a climb, you're burning lots of matches. In some ways, during a 1-2 hour race it's good to have gears in which you can only push it; if you have climbs of a length of over 200 yards, seated climbing efficiency comes into play. On the other hand 1x10 can also burn you on the flats if you use too small a chainring--that 10t with XX1 definitely comes in handy!

  56. #56
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    1x10 is an experiment to determine how I like the idea of the 1x without having to spend a grand.

    Currently with the 2x10 26x38 front I have a possible granny of 20.94 gear inches in the 26T front and the 38T would yield 30.61 gear inches.

    With the 30T by 36 rear I will have 24.16 gear inches on a 1x10 in granny. Contrasted by 28T by 42 rear giving 19.66 gear inches on a 1x11 in granny. (30T by 42 giving 20.71 gear inches.)

    Will I notice the almost 5 inches of wheel travel over the single rotation of the 180mm crank? I will find out.

    (I rarely race in the fastest gears as most of our races are heavy balanced towards climbing. So I am willing to give up the 10 for the 11 on the bottom in order to have a better balance of efficiency for hill climbs. 24-25mph downhill is crazy fast here!)

    But the big question will be how will the extra gear inches feel over distance?

  57. #57
    Don't be a sheep
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcm01 View Post
    I'm excited to make the move to XX1 after reading all of the good reviews (here and elsewhere). However I do admit that I am concerned about the gearing. I currently have a standard 2x10 set up. 38-26 x 11-36 I think. On an average training ride, I use my biggest gear - and sometimes wish I had even bigger when it gets smooth and flat or I hit pavement - and I also use my lowest gear - it can get pretty steep in some places out here in So. CA. So regardless of what chainring I run, I think I am going to be wishing I had gears I won't have. Hopefully all of the other pros offset this con. We'll see...
    This is EXACTLY my situation. in SoCal with your gearing on my current bike. Almost pulled the trigger on XX1 for the new bike but I use it for more than just racing (big rides in the Santa Anas etc) so I went with some deeply discounted 2x10 XTR stuff.
    "Do not touch the trim"

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rivet View Post
    so I went with some deeply discounted 2x10 XTR stuff.
    And XTR is so smooth and buttery and perfect.... sorry drooling a bit.

    Edit: My thoughts are that 1x10 is great if all your doing is racing XC. For anything over 3 hours I really like my 2x because it generally means there are road portions and extended climbing at that point. My 2 cents.

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rivet View Post
    ...so I went with some deeply discounted 2x10 XTR stuff.
    Discounted and XTR...can't go wrong there!

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by zippinveedub View Post
    My thoughts are that 1x10 is great if all your doing is racing XC. For anything over 3 hours I really like my 2x because it generally means there are road portions and extended climbing at that point. My 2 cents.
    I completely agree with this. I still want to move to 1x10 for racing but for my longer training rides, I want a larger range.

    Edit: problem is I race and train on the same bike...

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcm01 View Post
    I completely agree with this. I still want to move to 1x10 for racing but for my longer training rides, I want a larger range.

    Edit: problem is I race and train on the same bike...
    That's why I've gone 1x10 on the Stumpy HT and 2x9 (going to be 2x10 soon) on the Blur XC.

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcm01 View Post
    Discounted and XTR...can't go wrong there!
    From what I've heard Shmano will have an answer to XX1 at Sea Otter, hence the good prices on XTR 2x10.
    "Do not touch the trim"

  63. #63
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    Installed the 30T Wolf Tooth on my XT double crank (along with a new chain and cassette-I already have a type 2 Sram RD) and took it out for a spin in the hard-packed-snow-covered foothills. This is my first experience with a 1x10 setup and I am very impressed! It does almost everything my 26/38 double did (except the top-top end speed). I can tell my concerns about loosing the 26T were unfounded. I can also tell that in a 20-30 mile race I will want at least a 32T! The 30T feels like a good adventure touring ring: go all day, anywhere!

    Way to go Wolf Tooth! Excellent product!

    Love the new XT brakes too! The newly-rebuilt-by-Fox fork and shock are also really good. I can't believe I rode this bike for so many miles with the suspension so dead.

    The bike feels good again! Even though it is basically the middle of ski season, I am now excited for riding/racing season!

  64. #64
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    1x10 works!

    Been training and raced my Niner A9C hardtail on 1x10 with NO issues. My goal was going single chainring WITHOUT any chainguides. Installed the XX1 cranks with 32t ring, paired with XTR 10 speed 11-36t and Shadow Plus rd (clutch). This type of rd is very important to give added security for chain retention. No problems with chain derailing even on rocky gardens and drops. Raced in Fontana and Bonelli Park.

    Highly recommend it if trying to avoid the 1x11 setup. So far I don't need the 42t low, and the steep price hike. Have fun out there, 1x10 works!!


    Racing a 1x10 anyone?-xx1-1x10.jpg

  65. #65
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    I'm training and racing on a 1x9 and have been for years now. My gearing is 32x34 and I ride a 29er. This gearing is low enough that I can climb anything that I need to. A 36 would be nice at times when the trail is insanely steep, but it's not often that I ride up logging roads and I make sure to train for those too. I've ridden 5k of elevation up one mountain in N.C. with no problems, but I was in the best shape of my life then too. If that would've been a marathon instead of an intense training ride, I would've had some problems by the end.
    There is not much choice between rotten apples.

  66. #66
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    I just ordered up a Wolftooth 42 ring for the rear and a 32 race face narrow-wide for up-front. I've currently got an XTR set-up on my Anthem 27.5 and don't think that I'll be losing that much. I could have gone with the XX1 anthem, but I wanted the fox stuff and shimano (plus a little cheaper overall). Not a big fan of sram stuff so, going to give this a try and see how it goes

    Racing a 1x10 anyone?-ritzelrechner_de.jpg

  67. #67
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    For me, on So. Cal. courses, it is tough to get spun out even with a 30t up front. Usually, areas that might be steep enough to cause one to get spun out are often the sections where you are coasting so fast that your major focus is NOT hitting the brakes too much. The last thing on your mind is getting spun out. Having said this, there are just a few flatter sections where I wish I had a 32 or 34t up front. This is rare.

    I find it more advantageous to be able to keep a higher cadence on the many many short and steep climbs out here. For this reason, I will keep my 30t up front and just assume I will get spun out occasionally during a race. It is a compromise.

    I converted to a 1X9 4 seasons ago and love the concept of no front derailleur. I am now on XX1 and like it. There is a little bit of chain noise though that I don't like.

    You also have to consider how quiet the XX1 is when descending the rough stuff....almost single speed quiet. It also simplifies the drivetrain and makes riding more fun for me when there is no need to think about the front gearing.

    I had an XTR shadow plus rear mech before and hated it. It was not that silent even with clutch turned way up. Also, the shift lever had a ton of resistance in it on both bikes I ran it on. I could not get this resistance to go away and after a 3 hour race, my shift thumb ached more than my legs. Not good. Perhaps I had a defect, but it seems like I am not the only who had this complaint.

    .03
    Last edited by rydbyk; 03-12-2014 at 12:40 PM.

  68. #68
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    I spin out all the time on the -2% to -6% grades with a 29er with 32t chainring and 11-36t cassette. I can spin to ~30 MPH if I spin like mad (hard to do on uneven off-road surface), but can spin more comfortably to maintain 23-24 MPH in the top gear and try to control myself from bouncing wildly in the saddle and throwing off my balance. With my old 42-28 front, I could go over 35 MPH if I put similar effort as I did trying to put out 30 MPH on the 1x10, but generally can spin 28ish MPH with a very controlled/conservative cadence that allowed me to stand and absorb bumps while pedaling, if the surface was bumpy enough. I'm not too happy with the extreme chain angles either; if I backpedal at all, ratcheting to avoid a pedal strike on a tech climb for instance, the chain would derail towards a middle position cog and the gear skip would make the challenge more difficult.

    I'm sad that my Niner Air9 RDO doesn't allow for a ring bigger than 32t, due to clearance with the chainstay. Main thing that spurred me to go 1x was to eliminate chain drops. The SRAM XX1 ring has remained reliable at keeping the chain on to date (1000+ miles), while a RaceFace NarrowWide 32t dropped a chain within 30 miles of installing it on another bike (middle ring position on RaceFace Next SL crankarms, paired with XTR everything else, inc XTR 986 Shadow+ RD with clutch on). Chain drops with a FD can be pedaled back on without stopping, losing as much time as a "bobble" would (less than 5 secs), while a chain drop on a 1x setup requires a stop. You'd lose even more time if the chain was jammed, between the crank and the frame, or between the upper guide and the ring, losing 30 secs perhaps.

    Speaking of the clutch, it really quieted down my bike. I can clearly tell the difference. A simple bunnyhop would make a racket with it off, but fairly quiet with it on. The only downside for me is a bit more resistance when going into the climbing gears in the back. It does cause a slight hitch in my pedal stroke, if I were pushing a low gear at a higher cadence, with the thought of spinning smooth circles and lifting the opposing foot up in my mind. I have to put myself into that state though. My habit is to let up on torque a tiny bit, and mash a bigger than normal gear to accelerate, and try and spin with a bit more torque to maintain the momentum as long as I could from the acceleration burst.

    There's not much time to be gained on those slight downslopes, but having a gear that you can push while standing and absorbing bumps, without losing balance from the pedaling action, is very valuable. If you are serious about racing, go the full deal with XX1, and look to stick a bigger chainring up front on it (make sure your frame as clearance), IMO. Much less compromise, less weight, and more reliable chain security with XX1.
    Last edited by Varaxis; 03-12-2014 at 02:53 PM.

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