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  1. #1
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    Quarq XX1 Power Meter???

    So I've been interested for a while in a power meter option for Sram XX1. I have a power meter on my road bike and used a Quarq S2275 MTB power meter on my 29er last year. I am now running a XX1 drivetrain and the S2275 was not compatible so I sold it on Ebay a few months ago. SRM has a couple of XX1 options out but they are very expensive ($2,500 ... yikes!). I sent a note to Quarq several months ago inquiring about the possibility of a XX1 power meter (given Sram bought Quarq) and they confirmed they had one under development but no release date. Have been checking their website periodically but so far no news. I googled the topic again today and stumbled across this: XX1 Power Meter Help . Qalvin is Quarq's calibration / diagnostic software. Curious ... it appears to be instructions for an XX1 power meter .... perhaps a release in the near term??? Anyone on the XC Racing and Training forum train with power?

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    I'd go SRM anytime, the SRM 1x units will be available for conversion to user changeable batteries when it is available.

    Having had a quarq mtb unit, I would never purcahse another Quarq product. It was absolutely terrible.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Devincicx View Post
    I'd go SRM anytime, the SRM 1x units will be available for conversion to user changeable batteries when it is available.

    Having had a quarq mtb unit, I would never purcahse another Quarq product. It was absolutely terrible.
    I know SRM is considered the gold standard of power meters but $2500 bucks is a lot of coin. Probably just take a wait and see approach relative to Quarq's newly designed MTB PM.

  4. #4
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    Another option is to run a Powertap with an XD driver. Wheelbuilder has them. Also, you could run a Stages Shimano or X9 triple crank and get a narrow wide ring from Wolftooth or Raceface.

  5. #5
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    Quarq is a dead duck in the water with the current units (saw this with the recent promotion of trade in your older quarq and get a new one for 899, they didnt even notify dealers of this). There was some rumblings of an XX1 unit, but that was last year sometime. not heard anything at all from them on anything even new or exciting

    SRM is the only true choice for a XX1 unit, but you could always get an XTR or XT crank, slap a stages unit on the other side and run it with Race Face narrow/wide or wolftooth rings for half the price of SRM. BB30 might be a holdup-but the adapters work well.

    I've been running Stages since day 1 release XTR and couldnt be happier
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  6. #6
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    Stages sounds good, but I recently saw the +/- 9% difference with an (SRM?) and I thought it was quite steep.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Devincicx View Post
    Stages sounds good, but I recently saw the +/- 9% difference with an (SRM?) and I thought it was quite steep.
    That's a bit of a red herring. In power measurement, it really just matters how accurate it is versus itself. You'll get variations between any 2 different types of power meters based on a number of variables. They measure at 2 different points so that is one variation. I've heard good things about Stages and for less than half the price of an SRM, I just took that gamble. I'll be running the X9 cranks with a 32T WolfTooth. I'm currently also running Quarq Elsa on the road bike and an older PT on the TT bike.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devincicx View Post
    Stages sounds good, but I recently saw the +/- 9% difference with an (SRM?) and I thought it was quite steep.
    Where did you see this, Not saying you are wrong, more curious. We ran stages on an SRM and it tracked nearly identical to the SRM, the powertap matched also, but was around 5% lower (attributed to drivetrain losses).

    Majority of data that I've seen, as long as its consistent to itself is the biggest factor that one need to replicate during training
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  9. #9
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    I've also noted greater accuracy than +/- 9% when comparing Stages to other power meters (Quarq, Powertap, Erg trainers, etc.). But to reiterate as long as a power meter is consistent, it serves it's purpose as a great training tool.
    "It never gets easier, you just go faster" - Greg LeMond

    Disclaimer - I work for TrainerRoad

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    Quote Originally Posted by sprocketjockey9 View Post
    Where did you see this, Not saying you are wrong, more curious. We ran stages on an SRM and it tracked nearly identical to the SRM, the powertap matched also, but was around 5% lower (attributed to drivetrain losses).

    Majority of data that I've seen, as long as its consistent to itself is the biggest factor that one need to replicate during training
    A guy on twitter testing PM and I think the German magazine did test them.


    To the other poster, how do you tell your newly introduced to the market PM is actually consitent day after day? Hard to tell if you data are trustable in time...

    I do not work for SRM nor do I have any affiliation with them, but sometimes it is funny how people try to convince themselves paying a low price will get them the same thing as a technologie and compagny which has been around for 25+ years.

    Having had experience with other brand, I would not go away from my SRM anytime soon. Yes, SRM is stupid expensive, but it is worth every penny when you want real, trustable, stable datas and a bombproof system.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devincicx View Post

    Having had experience with other brand, I would not go away from my SRM anytime soon. Yes, SRM is stupid expensive, but it is worth every penny when you want real, trustable, stable datas and a bombproof system.
    This is 100% true.... You certainly get what you pay for with SRM
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  12. #12
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    Run a GXP XX1 crank and order the X9 GXP Stages power meter. Works fine only the X9 has a slightly wider q factor. Just move the cleat on your left show 1mm closer to the center of the bike and you're good to go.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeguy0 View Post
    Run a GXP XX1 crank and order the X9 GXP Stages power meter. Works fine only the X9 has a slightly wider q factor. Just move the cleat on your left show 1mm closer to the center of the bike and you're good to go.
    I am running a XX1 30mm spindle / PF30 BB. Will the X9 BB30 non drive side crank arm work? The XX1 BB30 spindle is attached to the non drive side arm (it is the reverse of the GXP which has the spindle attached to the drive side crank arm).

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cusco View Post
    I am running a XX1 30mm spindle / PF30 BB. Will the X9 BB30 non drive side crank arm work? The XX1 BB30 spindle is attached to the non drive side arm (it is the reverse of the GXP which has the spindle attached to the drive side crank arm).
    Couple things. Yes you can run the x9 bb30 version but stages only sells that as a full crankset so you'll have the left over drive side stuff from the x9.
    I run a pf 30 frame as well so what I did is buy a wheels manufacturing outboard bb30 bottom bracket which converts the frame to gxp, a new gxp xx1 crank and the stages x9 left arm. It is a few bucks but I will be able to sell my bb30 xx1 and the gxp version is more versatile on different frames.
    I just spoke with stages about this last week to confirm how to do this with xx1. Final option is to get a hollowgram crank and the stages parts as well. This is the lightest setup but very expensive.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeguy0 View Post
    Couple things. Yes you can run the x9 bb30 version but stages only sells that as a full crankset so you'll have the left over drive side stuff from the x9.
    I run a pf 30 frame as well so what I did is buy a wheels manufacturing outboard bb30 bottom bracket which converts the frame to gxp, a new gxp xx1 crank and the stages x9 left arm. It is a few bucks but I will be able to sell my bb30 xx1 and the gxp version is more versatile on different frames.
    I just spoke with stages about this last week to confirm how to do this with xx1. Final option is to get a hollowgram crank and the stages parts as well. This is the lightest setup but very expensive.
    Couldn't you also buy the Stages BB30 crankset and the XX1 spider and just swap the spider out?
    Here is a XX1 spider for $70:
    111 Spiders for SRAM XX1, X0, & X9 Cranks | North Shore Billet

  16. #16
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    corrected: Northshore billet does have gxp and bb30 versions.

    I will be posting a thread on my setup when it comes in from Stages as I know there are a few people wanting to do this. If you look at Brady Kappius pictures from Fontana and Bonelli you can see he has this setup on his Niner One 9 RDO. Kinda hard to see in the pics but I spoke with him about it it works fine. You can also just run the Wheels Manufacturing Delrin adapters but I wanted a more beefy installation.
    Last edited by bikeguy0; 04-26-2014 at 07:18 PM. Reason: Error in comment re: north shore billet

  17. #17
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    [redacted] ...
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  18. #18
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    UPDATED: Q Factor #'s were off. Also updated info regarding measure L/R q-factor and moving cleats to compensate.

    Okay here is the set up.
    XX1 GXP Crankset
    X9 GXP Stages Left Arm
    Wheels Manufacturing Outboard PF30 Bottom Bracket

    First up is the weights:
    XX1 BB30 Standard Crankset
    Quarq XX1 Power Meter???-image.jpg
    XX1 GXP Standard Crankset
    Quarq XX1 Power Meter???-image.jpg
    XX1 BB30 Left Arm
    Quarq XX1 Power Meter???-image.jpg
    X9 Stages Left Arm
    Quarq XX1 Power Meter???-image.jpg

    Next is the install:
    1st thing to note is there are a couple of options for BB's. Wheels PF30 outboard, Wheels Adapters, Praxis Conversion BB. I like a conversion set up. Be careful with the Praxis on the Air 9 RDO. It has a larger outer diameter and the first run of Air 9 RDO frames have less room to run the rear derailleur cable through the BB area. The newer frames have a groove in the BB to run the cable. See Praxis' website documents for details on what frames their conversion has trouble with.

    Okay remove your PF 30 bottom bracket. You can see the internal routed cable in this pic
    Quarq XX1 Power Meter???-image.jpg
    Press in the drive side cup of the Wheel BB into the frame. Note how the housing is routed below the BB.
    Quarq XX1 Power Meter???-image.jpg
    Thread the non-drive side Wheels BB cup into the drive side and use two BB wrenches to tighten them. There is no torque instructions with the Wheels BB but I just did it hand tight. As soon as you feel the cups bottom out on the carbon stop tightening.
    Quarq XX1 Power Meter???-image.jpg
    Attach the GXP crank like you would any other. Remember on the drive side, starting from the crankset in toward the BB it goes... Wave Washer->spacers->bearing cover. The Wheels BB comes with a wave washer and delrin spacers. I needed to get a few extra spacers to take up extra space on the drive side to make sure the wave washer was slightly compressed. There should be NO spacers on the non drive side. Just the crank arm and the bearing shield provided by Wheels with the BB.
    Final install
    Quarq XX1 Power Meter???-img_0419.jpg
    Works perfectly fine. The Q factor of the X9 crankset is 170.9 vs the 168 of the XX1 (if you buy that version). You'll have to measure your q-factor from center line of the bike to each pedal and adjust your cleats to make sure the distance is the same. I'll stay on this thread if anyone has questions. One other note is it is much easier to just program the Ant + ID into your garmin vs having it search for it. I recommend doing that and just place the Ant ID as the last digits available in the Garmin input screen. i.e. if the Ant ID is 6088 the in the garmin it would be 000006088. I made the mistake of programming in 608800000 and it wouldn't work.

    Thanks and happy riding.
    Last edited by bikeguy0; 04-28-2014 at 11:01 AM. Reason: Updating Q factor info. I had it wrong

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeguy0 View Post
    Good question. The northshore one only is available for gxp cranks.
    I am not sure if the SRAM xx1 spider will swap over. I believe you may run into issues since the x9 is aluminum and has a slightly different shape then the xx1 or x01 which are both carbon.

    I will be posting a thread on my setup when it comes in from Stages as I know there are a few people wanting to do this. If you look at Brady Kappius pictures from Fontana and Bonelli you can see he has this setup on his Niner One 9 RDO. Kinda hard to see in the pics but I spoke with him about it it works fine. You can also just run the Wheels Manufacturing Delrin adapters but I wanted a more beefy installation.
    I have a NSB BB30 XX1 spider on my SRAM XO 10s BB30 cranks right now...

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devincicx View Post
    A guy on twitter testing PM and I think the German magazine did test them.


    To the other poster, how do you tell your newly introduced to the market PM is actually consitent day after day? Hard to tell if you data are trustable in time...

    I do not work for SRM nor do I have any affiliation with them, but sometimes it is funny how people try to convince themselves paying a low price will get them the same thing as a technologie and compagny which has been around for 25+ years.

    Having had experience with other brand, I would not go away from my SRM anytime soon. Yes, SRM is stupid expensive, but it is worth every penny when you want real, trustable, stable datas and a bombproof system.
    I don't know. I have had two SRMs over the years and been far from impressed. Probably out of the vast array of power meters I have used they have been the worst for reliability.

    The story I heard is Sky switch from SRM to Stages because they were lost 50% of all ride data last year.
    "The best pace is suicide pace, and today is a good day to die." Steve Prefontaine

  21. #21
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    Hey guys. Issue with Q factor I need to bring up. Measure the symmetry after you install!!! I had a 3mm difference from left to right which hurt my knee.

    I started to have trouble with my left knee which I thought was due to my cleat. I measured the Q factor and the left pedal body was 94mm from the seat tube. The right pedal body was 97mm from the seat tube. I'm not sure why the non drive ended up closer to the center line because the x9 Q factor is 170.9 and the XX1 is 168.

    Long story short is my left leg was 3mm closer to the centerline then my right. I moved each cleat over 1.5mm to make up the difference and I'll ride it again soon.

  22. #22
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    Any issues / weirdness with the Al X9 crank arm and the CF XX1 crank arm which presumably are different weights? Just curious.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cusco View Post
    Any issues / weirdness with the Al X9 crank arm and the CF XX1 crank arm which presumably are different weights? Just curious.
    Not that I've noticed. 52 gram difference from the xx1 left to the x9 stages. As long as I've got the Q factor taken care of this should work great. I like it so when I have intervals I can do them on the mtb then finish rest of ride on the dirt working on skills.

  24. #24
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    im also on XX1 drive and Stages left

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by danridesbikes View Post
    im also on XX1 drive and Stages left
    Any problem with Q-factor?

    I have XX1 BB30 and am considering the X9 Stages solution, even though it is sold only as a complete crankset.
    -boom

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