Sorry for my late answer. So far Wheelbuilder have been willing to send new body'es. On my last body I have punched the bearings some closer so the play is nearly like zero between the the bearing and the "tube" between. So far it has last after this little adjustment. But Wheelbuilder says that it's "normal" with the larger play but I my case I still think it was to big.
When I got my wheelbuilder.com 142x12mm thru axle it had play and wouldn't install properly. The freehub was binding as soon as you began tightening the skewer. I wrote a bit about it with pictures in Post #139 of this thread:
The problem wasn't with the Wheelbuilder thru axle. It was actually the Powertap hub itself that was out of spec. When I took the Powertap hub and had the torque tube replaced with a new one the Wheelbuilder axle installed correctly.
If you've been through multiple Wheelbuilder XX1 freehub bodies and they're all having major issues it could be that the problem is with your hub, rather than the freehub bodies?
I do not think it is the hub itself. As the inner bearing of the body is pushed up to the axels "stop" edge the problem can only be in the body.
If I dismounted the axel and tighten it up in the frame incl. the body it would still have the pressure on the bearings if the play is to big as the frame will tighten from the end cap to the first bearing in the body, then to the "tube" and further on to the inner bearing of the body before it end up puching in the axels "stop" edge. Can you follow me ??
Posting a picture would come in handy to show where the problem is occurring.
Are you using the original Powertap axle, with that metal tube that acts as a spacer for the freehub, or are you using a Wheelbuilder 142x12mm axle where the spacer is machined into the axle?
I thought I'd post an update on the history and final demise of my Powertap hub.
It was purchased new October 2010 but not really used until January 2011 due to bad weather. It worked ok throughout 2011 until the start of 2012 where it's torque offset was way out of range. At that time it had a brand new torque tube (£425 GBP) fitted, new hub bearings and a Wheelbuilder 142x12mm thru axle installed to use with my new frame.
From February 2012 through to August 2012 it was ok. At the beginning of August 2012, a week or so before I crashed, I was caught in a massive rainstorm. The hub went haywire in the rain, reading 2,000 watts plus randomly before losing any power display at all (speed kept going from the hub though.) After a few days to dry out it was back to working normally again but the warning signs were there.
I crashed and broke my leg soon after so the bike was then left packed away for a year whilst I couldn't ride. I started riding again outdoors 14 September 2013. After changing the batteries the hub worked but with a torque offset of 447 (out of correct range). I took it down to the UK service centre where it was recalibrated back to a torque offset of 512 and it had the hub bearings replaced (they were in a bad state).
In November 2013 I was caught in the rain for two hours. I was completely drenched and the hub died. When taken apart the battery cradle had shorted. After being dried out next to a radiator and with a new battery cradle installed it started working again, but only for a week before it stopped working suddenly whilst out riding in the dry. I wedged the battery cradle in place which got it working again for a couple of days before it stopped again on another dry ride, with no data from the hub. The issue apparently being the connection between the battery cradle and hub shaking loose.
I securely fixed the battery cradle in place but after just 5 minutes riding the next day it stopped again, with no data again. The battery cradle connection definitely didn't shake loose this time so it's more than just a bad connection.
And that's where it's at. A hub that most likely needs another torque tube (£425 GBP). Money which I'm reluctant to spend on the old style hub. It still has the same weaknesses as my current Powertap hub so it would only be a matter of time until the new one went too.
If the Powertap GS MTB hubs with the DT internals were available now I'd get one of those but as they aren't I'm going to try a Power2Max crank based power meter for 2014.