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  1. #1
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    Getting cheap bike for trainer

    I just got a wahoo kickr, and only have 1 ride on it so far. Loving it, once I can figure out how to get my whole crotch to keep from going numb after 20 mins. I guess I need to find a better seat. Anyway, to my point for this post!

    1.) Using my good bike for my trainer bike - I know this isn't ideal, especially for summer months when I'm going to want to ride outside a lot, and pulling the bike on and off the trainer is going to get old. However, what I'm trying to figure out is if it's actually bad for the bike until I can find a cheap trainer bike. I have a Felt Edict FRD, which is carbon fiber, and an expensive frame. I didn't think about it before getting the trainer, but I felt really nervous hooking up the bike the first time. I realized how much torsional stress I'm probably putting on the rear triangle that isn't usually there during normal riding, especially if I stand up and pedal. Should I not use it until I can find a cheap trainer bike to put on there?

    2.) Cheap bike for trainer - I'm thinking about getting a $50 bike on craigslist to use on the trainer. I don't have any budget left after buying the trainer, so it would have to be a cheapie. I'm thinking as long as the frame is good and it fits me, just about any frame will do what I need right? Does it matter that my crank will probably be a different length than what my main mtn bike is? Is there a way to make it work with the 11 spd cassette that the trainer has on there or should I just pull the cassette off the wheel and put that on the trainer? I'm also wondering if I get an old bike like a 1980 schwinn, will the bottom bracket most likely be toast. Of course I'll probably need a new chain too. Sigh.

    What do you guys look for? I don't know road bikes very well at all. Heck, I'm not even sure I'm going to like having road bike drop bars instead of mtb bike bars. I also just realized I'm going to want spd pedals for it. sigh again.

  2. #2
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    I'm sure your MTB will get worse treatment on the trail then on the trainer. In my exp. most indoor training is spent sitting down and isn't too dramatic most of the winter.

    Many people use MTB on the trainer. make sure to keep it clean and lubed. Use a sweet catcher and clean the chain often. If you switch between a few chains every 500km, drive train wear is limited.

    I use a Allez sport on the trainer. You can get one for pretty cheap used. i think they retailed for less the $1000. Fit is super important if your doing alot of time indoors. You dont tend to move around as much, and get sore in unpleasant places.

    My set up: Road bike stays indoors in the winter on the trainers, the mtb bike has spikes for winter trail riding (no roads, keeps it out of the salt), and the CX bike is used rarely on the road. In the summer, they only get used outdoors and i stay the hell away from the trainer. I ride in the rain, at 5am uphill both ways to stay off the trainer come march.

  3. #3
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    Just make sure you can accurately replicate your position on the bike, as mediaburn was saying. And if you use your MTB, lock out your suspension

    That said, I have a beater bike on my trainer because I can have it set up all the time and it reduces the considerable time I'd spend cleaning and setting up my bike after little rides. Trainers really don't put considerable stress on the frame, especially compared to trail riding.

    As for the cassette, you got smart trainer, so I imagine you'll find at least a gear that works quietly on the cassette and that's really all you need (except for like FTP testing or any other reason you'd take it out of smart mode). I've run Shimano Deore 10spd and SRAM Gx 11spd on a cassette for my 10spd Campy road bike with no problem.

  4. #4
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    I bent the rear drop out a bit on the trainer. Now i have a cheap 10 yo Giant on there. If you stand and hammer for all out effort training, the drop out takes a lot of stress. Also to mimic up hill, i actually put a cmu block below my front tire.

  5. #5
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    My trainer bike is a late 80s steel Allez, with Ultegra600, I'm into it for $200. I thought it was still a decent road bike, but then I bought a recent Scott Foil20, which is a really good road bike and the old bike seems a lot less good now.
    There's some very solid old road bikes out there for cheap, especially with down-tube shifters. I'd go that route and match the cassette on the trainer to the trainer-bike.

    Sitting there in one spot for a long time will have that numbing effect, I'd look at seats with a larger center cutout.
    carry clippers! cut something off the trail every time you ride.

  6. #6
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    For those of you who are mountain bikers using a road bike on your trainer, do you put mountain bike bars on it or just use the road bike drop bars?

  7. #7
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    I use road bars, more positions to rotate through.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thumper33 View Post
    For those of you who are mountain bikers using a road bike on your trainer, do you put mountain bike bars on it or just use the road bike drop bars?
    I put mountain bars on my road bike. I had enough steer tube to just put another stem on, and was able to leave the road bars and shifters in place.

    (this pic was taken before I added grips)

    Getting cheap bike for trainer-1088150d1471269841-dual-suspension-trainer-20160312_130914.jpg

  9. #9
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    I have my TT bike on my trainer. My goal on the trainer is legs and cardio (mostly cardio), so replicating the MTB position isn't needed. I work on strength by riding a 35 pound enduro in real life.

    My TT bike was found on Craigslist for $400 (2002 Quintana). My roadie (1985 Bridgestone) was free, and I have almost nothing invested in it.

  10. #10
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    I leave the drop bars on, I don't think there'd be much benefit to changing to flat bars. I race cyclocross too, being more used to the drops is good.
    carry clippers! cut something off the trail every time you ride.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thumper33 View Post
    For those of you who are mountain bikers using a road bike on your trainer, do you put mountain bike bars on it or just use the road bike drop bars?
    Road bars.

    One more vote for training on the bike you normally ride. I have both setups in different locations. The beater-bike setup does save about 3 minutes of fiddling. Riding on my normal bike lets me really focus on dialing in my position, which saves me from surprises when I'm out on the road or trails.

    I don't stand and sprint on the indoor trainer, mostly because it doesn't mimic outdoor sprinting nearly enough. When I sprint outdoors, and I mean really sprint, my entire body wants to shrivel up and die; arms, torso, legs and mental acuity. I can't replicate this indoors, so I stay seated even on the 'sprint' bursts of most of my indoor workouts. And this really helps develop seated power which is pretty important on those steep technical climbs. When I am practicing starts or some other sprint exercise, I go outside.

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