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  1. #1
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    Experimented with race tires today

    My brother (age 41) and I (age 43) have been racing Expert class in Utah, and doing it on 27 and 26lb full suspension all mountain bikes. Fortunately, we are primarily roadies and are really strong climbers, so despite our heavy, squishy bikes, we have top ten finishes, but want to move onto the podium. I have the S-works Stumpjumper FSR 29er. I had been running All-Mountain tires. S-works Ground control (605gm) and Purgatory (2.2, which they no longer make in that size, and is around 650gm). Today I tried the S-works Renegade 1.95 (470gm) and Fast Track (520gm). So I dropped about 260gm of rotational weight, and decreased the rolling resistance. My brother is 25lbs lighter than me, 2 inches shorter, and a slightly better climber. We went and road the same climb we did Wednesday. The segment on Strava, which is most of the climb, takes us 17:39 seconds, and has me ranked 25th out of over 1,000 riders. Wednesday, and today, we did it twice at race pace (2 laps). He led every lap, on both days. I was hoping I would be able to easily stay on his wheel today with the new tires. Unfortunately, the change was not magical. We had more of a headwind today, but finished each lap within 5 seconds of what we did Wednesday. Because of the head wind, he felt like he had to push harder today than Wednesday. His heart rate almost never hits 170, and today he was in the low 170s several times. Today was still very painful for me, and it took all my will power to ignore the pain and stay with him, but my heart rate was a little lower than it was on Wednesday, and the pain level just a little less. On the second lap on Wednesday, he would gap me by 20-30 yards at times, and I was able to close it when it flattened out a little. Today, I was able to stay with him the entire time with no gap.
    So, the lighter, less knobby tires made it a little easier to stay with him, but it was a very small difference. Where I really noticed a change, is when we would go over a rise, and then a really short down section. The lighter tires accelerated very quickly because of less rotational weight. Once I figured this out, I actually started clicking two gears harder to take advantage of this acceleration, where I would seem to magically get all over his rear wheel and recover for a second. On the decent, the rear wheel was definitely skidding more with braking. I usually never skid and am proud of that ability. Maybe I need to get used to braking just a little softer on the rear with the new tire. The front never washed out, but I was definitely more scared going into sharp corners. The conditions were excellent today (hero dirt thanks to some rain yesterday). Only on the very bottom did we get into more of a dry sand type loose surface, and the front tire actually cornered great despite my fears, and I was able to stay with my brother.

    In summary, the lighter tires definitely accelerate faster any time the trail dipped down, and would be faster in a sprint. On the climb, they probably lowered my heart rate a couple beats compared to my brother, and let me stay with him a little easier, but the difference was not nearly as big as I hoped. Any time gained on the climb will be lost on the decent, and then some, if the soil is looser or the confidence is lower. I will ride them again next time, and report back if there is anything new to add.

  2. #2
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    P.S. - I have an S-works Epic WC on order, and I am hoping that dropping 5lbs and going to a much stiffer frame will make a big difference in my climbs, but after seeing minimal improvement after dropping more than a half pound of rotational weight, I'm nervous that it will be money down the toilet....

  3. #3
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    P.S.- Its not about the bike or tires. The tires you were running were not heavy by my standards. Those are good weight for general XC tires.

    I race on an Ardent front at 780g and older Bontrager XDX on the rear at 680g. I like traction.

  4. #4
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    Dropping that little bit in tires isnt going to make you podium. I would much rather be on a set of tires I liked than a set of tires I chose just because of lightweight. Likewise, I spend most of my time on the road bike. You'll lose more time running super light tires you bought just because of the weight opposed to a set you feel you can rail on.
    Become a better rider. Hit trails harder and faster. Spend more time working on your bike handling. Being fast on the road and being fast in the dirt doesnt always translate. Fast in the dirt requires more handling skill. Bike weight isn't always a factor.
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  5. #5
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    How do you figure that an XC bike frame is going to be stiffer than an AM frame?
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  6. #6
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    Faster tires are the ticket, especially racing, They probably saved 5-10 watts depending on what you swapped out for what. When racing, free power, assuming it doesn't compromise your cornering his huge. Tires like the Rocket Ron are nearly as fast as the fast track tire, but give you more grip.


  7. #7
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    Cool experiment, and thanks for taking the time to write it up.

    If you had power data vs. speed, it would be a lot more useful than HR data. Your HR might have been higher due to caffeine, fatigue, stress, dehydration... and isn't that closely tied to power output. All that really matters is how many watts you were putting out vs. how fast you went up that climb. Well, that and how much weight difference there is between the setups.

    I will agree with the above poster in that I will always trade off a slight bit of rolling resistance and weight for sufficient traction , especially in turns. Overall it's just faster. I like Rocket Rom front/Racing Ralph rear (both 2.25" x 27.5").

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by wetpaint View Post
    Faster tires are the ticket, especially racing, They probably saved 5-10 watts depending on what you swapped out for what. When racing, free power, assuming it doesn't compromise your cornering his huge. Tires like the Rocket Ron are nearly as fast as the fast track tire, but give you more grip.

    Fine if you race on a steel drum.

    You need only one tool to see if something is faster for you. A stopwatch.

    Ride the same course numerous times with the equipment you are comparing. Record the elapsed time. Fastest times = fastest setup. At least for that course.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    Fine if you race on a steel drum.

    You need only one tool to see if something is faster for you. A stopwatch.

    Ride the same course numerous times with the equipment you are comparing. Record the elapsed time. Fastest times = fastest setup. At least for that course.
    while true, it can get a tad costly trying out 10 different tires...
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  10. #10
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    Re: Experimented with race tires today

    I'd prefer a Race King or Fast Trak in the rear over that Renegade.



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  11. #11
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    Thanks for the replies. I wish I had a power meter on my MTB, but I only have one on my road bike. Based on what happens on my road bike on my climbs on days when I generate 5-10 fewer watts, I agree that saving 10 Watts with lower rolling resistance can be the difference between hanging with someone on a climb, or being forced to let them go. Love the graph on the Watt data for the different Specialized tires. I was considering the Captain over the Purgatory I had been running, but after seeing little difference in rolling resistance, the advantage there would be purely rotational weight. I think I will try a fast trak on the rear or a rocket ron as well and see if I can brake a little harder without skidding the rear tire so easily.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    How do you figure that an XC bike frame is going to be stiffer than an AM frame?
    I am mainly referring to pedal bob more that lateral stiffness. My Stumpjumper FSR with the Brain locked out still lets the bike bob more than I would like when I'm standing. The Epic is supposed to feel more like a hardtail in that regard. I dropped 10lbs of body weight this spring, and had my fastest times ever on local Cat 1 and HC climbs on the road bike despite being another year older. I'm too skinny to loose any more weight, but I hope loosing another 5lbs from the bike will also make a noticeable difference on the climbs.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by SandSpur View Post
    while true, it can get a tad costly trying out 10 different tires...
    There is a heck of a lot more to a tire being "faster" on the trail than low rolling resistance. The tire still needs to have grip, cornering and braking ability, suit the conditions, suit your riding style, not flat, and give you confidence to go hard even when you are totally fatigued.
    Can not test those in a lab.

    Power meters have yet to show much useful info for mtbing. Not enough steady state pedaling in a typical course.
    And what feels "faster" may not be by the clock.
    Use elapsed time. GPS data also helps to see where the speed differences are.
    In testing I have done some of the slowest overall laps felt fast because the bike as moving around more and requiring more input to stay on the trail. The fastest laps were almost boring by comparison.
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  14. #14
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    Experimented with race tires today

    Quote Originally Posted by rdalcanto View Post
    Today I tried the S-works Renegade 1.95 (470gm) and Fast Track (520gm). So I dropped about 260gm of rotational weight, and decreased the rolling resistance. My brother is 25lbs lighter than me, 2 inches shorter, and a slightly better climber.

    In summary, the lighter tires definitely accelerate faster any time the trail dipped down, and would be faster in a sprint. On the climb, they probably lowered my heart rate a couple beats compared to my brother, and let me stay with him a little easier, but the difference was not nearly as big as I hoped. Any time gained on the climb will be lost on the decent, and then some, if the soil is looser or the confidence is lower. I will ride them again next time, and report back if there is anything new to add.
    I'm not a big fan of the S-Works tyre casing. They're thin and tend to be a bit fragile. There's not much point having light tyres if you're stationary with a puncture. For Specialized tyres the Control casing is a bit more robust.

    If you're comparing offroad tyres their cornering and braking abilities are just as important as riding up a climb. If you have no confidence then that can often outweigh any reduction in rolling resistance from a lightly treaded tyre. Did you make a note of the difference between tyre times on the descent as well as for the climb?

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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    There is a heck of a lot more to a tire being "faster" on the trail than low rolling resistance. The tire still needs to have grip, cornering and braking ability, suit the conditions, suit your riding style, not flat, and give you confidence to go hard even when you are totally fatigued.
    Can not test those in a lab.
    I completely agree. For me, with a limited budget, I tend to look at a graph like that, and can pick out which tires which have have the smaller knobs that I know wont work, then look at the ones I guess will have enough traction for my requirements, then pick one with a better rolling resistance to try out.

    a graph like that just helps me narrow my selection down to the next tire im going to try..
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdalcanto View Post
    Thanks for the replies. I wish I had a power meter on my MTB, but I only have one on my road bike. Based on what happens on my road bike on my climbs on days when I generate 5-10 fewer watts, I agree that saving 10 Watts with lower rolling resistance can be the difference between hanging with someone on a climb, or being forced to let them go. Love the graph on the Watt data for the different Specialized tires. I was considering the Captain over the Purgatory I had been running, but after seeing little difference in rolling resistance, the advantage there would be purely rotational weight. I think I will try a fast trak on the rear or a rocket ron as well and see if I can brake a little harder without skidding the rear tire so easily.
    I think that's the best option. The Powertap on my mtb has shown me that tires make a huge difference. While they won't bring you from the back of the pack to the front, if you're fighting for position saving any power makes a bit difference.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by wetpaint View Post

    Do we know where this graph came from? The reason I ask, is that looking at the Ground Control tire in my garage and comparing it to the Purgatory, they are fairly similar. The Captain looks like it should have a lower rolling resistance than either of those, but the data in this graph does not support that. Also wider tires are supposed to have lower rolling resistance than narrow tires, because of less deformation, and this graph is the opposite when comparing two widths of the same model...

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdalcanto View Post
    Also wider tires are supposed to have lower rolling resistance than narrow tires, because of less deformation, and this graph is the opposite when comparing two widths of the same model...
    Yep...I'm wondering the same thing???

  19. #19
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    Experimented with race tires today

    Quote Originally Posted by rdalcanto View Post
    Do we know where this graph came from?
    Specialized use Wheel Energy for their tyre testing.

    http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/articl...e-myths-29245/

    http://www.wheelenergy.com/

  20. #20
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    Update:
    We have ridden the same ride now several times on the new tires. My best climb is 25 seconds faster on the lighter tires than I could do previously on the bigger tires. Not a huge difference in a 17 minute climb, but could be significant in a race. We've been riding on hard pack conditions, so the narrower tires with smaller knobs should not matter once you stop thinking about the fact that you are on thinner tires. I have actually gotten 50 seconds faster on the decent than I was able to do previously, over a 9 minute long decent. This improvement is not directly from the tires, but from learning this technical decent full of banked hairpins, small table top jumps, turns through the trees, etc. But the point is, the racing tires are not slowing me down on the decent now that I have learned to trust them. There is no reason they should not hold on hard pack as well as a wider tire with soft knobs. In fact, they might hold better since big knobs flex. My brother upgraded to a Scalpel 1 with Racing Ralphs, so his climbs have gotten faster. He is now KOM on the loop that includes the 17 min climb and 8 min decent (no longer 9 min), and I'm just a few seconds behind him, beating out the hundreds of other riders that have Strava'd the loop, including several pros. My plan for now is to stay with the lighter tires for the racing season next year.
    Don't know if my Strava loop from today will post, but here it is:
    Mountain Bike Ride Profile | Corner Canyon 11/9/13 near Draper | Times and Records | Strava

  21. #21
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    Re: Experimented with race tires today

    Quote Originally Posted by rdalcanto View Post
    ..... He is now KOM on the loop that includes the 17 min climb and 8 min decent (no longer 9 min), and I'm just a few seconds behind him, beating out the hundreds of other riders that have Strava'd the loop, including several pros. My plan for now is to stay with the lighter tires for the racing season next year.
    Don't know if my Strava loop from today will post, but here it is:
    Mountain Bike Ride Profile | Corner Canyon 11/9/13 near Draper | Times and Records | Strava
    The "brother" here - I just want to be the one to point out that being KOM for the loop is a bit of a "Stravatard" move since the top of the climb is near a parking lot and trailhead and most people probably stop for a few minutes to take a breather before descending. One of the guys that is a couple minutes behind us in the loop timing has a PR climb a little faster than me and a PR descent about the same as mine. So unless he can't put both of them together, he must have stopped for a few minutes, perhaps waiting for a friend.
    Now, back to the topic at hand. I went from Nobby Nic tires on the "wider" 29er Cheap Chinese rims on my Niner RIP RDO to Racing Ralphs on Reynolds carbon rims that are 2mm narrower on my Scalpel. Obviously I can't compare the tires as well as my brother did since the bikes and wheels themselves are apples and oranges. But, I do feel like the Racing Ralphs bite well in the corners. That said, the lower volume of the tire and rim combo does require that I run a higher pressure, especially in the rear (28-30 vs 25). When I ran the lower pressure, I felt the tire squirm in hard corners. I do miss the supple nature of the higher volume tire and rim combo, but for racing (which every ride with my brother is a race) I will accept the harsher feel in return for a faster tire.



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    I used to ride the Geax AKA TNT's. They are bombproof but slightly heavy. I switched to the specialized fast track and they are great tires. Down here in Arizona it's pretty rocky. I have beat the crap out of these tires without ever getting a flat. They are a lot tougher than I thought they would be. I will use these tires for endurance mountain bike racing as I feel they are a good combination of low rolling resistance lightweight and flat protection.

  23. #23
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    I agree. I see people criticizing Specialized tires, but I've had great luck with them over the years. I always run S-works tires and can't think of the last time I had a flat or side wall issue, and I've scraped them good against rocks and roots. My brother has already had a flat with the Racing Ralphs that was too big to seal with Stans, and we had to through a tube in to finish the ride. Don't know if that was just bad luck or if they aren't as tuff as the Specialized tires. We will see what happens as we log more miles on our tires.

  24. #24
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    Fast Traks are awesome.

    As far as the big knob tires... I wouldn't roll anything like Nobby Nics on hardpack, only stuff like Fast Trak, Race King, Racing Ralphs, geax AKA etc. Big knob tires on hardpack is silly.

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    Re: Experimented with race tires today

    The big knobs out here were reassuring because we often are on loose, sandy dirt on top of hard pack. It just seems like the big knobs would hold better. I've been amazed at how well the Racing Ralphs hold, though I do feel then drift a little more than the nobby nics did, especially through high-speed mild chicane turns where the turn isn't really tight enough to have to lean the bike over far but it is tight enough that the tire drifts out a little. Now that I'm used to it, I have confidence that it won't wash out, but it was disconcerting at first.


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    Re: Experimented with race tires today

    On my main set of 29er wheels (Arch EX) I have a set of Race Kings front and rear.

    On a second set (original wheels) I have a set of Rocket Rons mounted which have bigger and taller knobs.

    All year I ran the Race Kings except for once when I was at a trail that was mostly very loose. And then I only ran the Rocket Ron up front since the RK in back was fine.

    The only other time I wanted to run the Rocket Rons was last week when the trails were very greasy... RKs just didnt have enough dig. I managed to get around and climb...but with a lot of care.

    Last year because of the drought which resulted in A LOT of loose over hard I changed out the RK up front in my 26er to a Captain Control...which made me happy.

    This year though I've wanted nothing but the Race Kings.

    On a giant demo this year I rode a Trance with Nobby Nics and an Anthem with Racing Ralphs, both 27.5.

    I took the Anthem out first and the Ralphs were great. When I took the Trance out I was surprised by the lack of grip the Nobby Nics had in comparison on hard pack....surprised as in they slid around on me unexpectedly

    I've come to like the small knob tires as my everyday hard pack tire and save the big knobs for when they are needed.

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    Good stuff!! I'm already agonizing about race tires for next season; I've got a regular Ground Control 29 x 2.3 front and an XKing 2.2 rear, I like them, especially the GC. Specialized web site shows that 2.3 GC to be 720g, a pair of Racing Ralph 2.1s at 495g claimed would save me 450g rotational over a pair of GCs, the 2.25 RRs would save me 370g. Last season in one race I was 3rd by about 5 seconds behind a photo finish for 1st and 2nd. That kind of rotational weight savings would have to help. I'm a little concerned about durability from what I've read, but I generally ride 'light' and don't break much of anything.

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    Regarding durability, I have had very good luck with Specialized. The way I look at it, if you have bad luck, you might flat once in a season of racing. That race you will be out of it. In the other races, the lighter tires will put you in contention. If you always run heavy tires because you are afraid to flat, you might finish every race, but you will never win (unless you are in too easy a class).

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    Great thread...just read from start to finish, at a psi of 25/27, and minimal side knob...so it was a fast read :-)

    Seriously, though...I like watching what the pros do. Specialized have these race re-caps and sometimes they review the tire pressures that were used. And, which tire exactly. The fastrack, and the renegade control are favourites. Psi to suit each ride weight.

    I have followed this and have had success. To the OP, big tires on a SJ FSR do not make a race bike. Even swapping tires will only give limited results. IMHO, for sure jumping on an Epic will make you faster in a XC race.

    Everything counts in large amounts.

    Weight, rolling, even aero, all add up in a race environment. No sense in just changing one aspect and hope for the best. The extremes are to be avoided if you ask me - furious Fred tires are light to the extreme, maxxis ardent is heavy duty to the extreme. Fastrack, and ikon nice middle ground tires, And RaRa, Renegades.

    Anyway, you can chat all day about tires and bikes....OP and brother have the fitness, they just need race bikes with tubleless tire :-)

    Cheers

  30. #30
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    @26black,
    You are absolutely right! And, I'm one step ahead of you....
    Got 2 rides in on my new race bike. I not only set PRs on every climb, but I was surprised to set a new PR on the descent as well. The new Epic WC is stable but nible. I can already taste the podium.... Experimented with race tires today-epic-wc.jpg
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  31. #31
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    I finally found a race tire lighter AND faster than S-Works Fast Trak, Race King 2.2, Ikon, and Racing Ralph....it's the Ritchey WCS Shield:

    Experimented with race tires today-2013-12-08-15.06.55.jpg
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldskoolm4 View Post
    Dropping that little bit in tires isnt going to make you podium. I would much rather be on a set of tires I liked than a set of tires I chose just because of lightweight. Likewise, I spend most of my time on the road bike. You'll lose more time running super light tires you bought just because of the weight opposed to a set you feel you can rail on.
    Become a better rider. Hit trails harder and faster. Spend more time working on your bike handling. Being fast on the road and being fast in the dirt doesnt always translate. Fast in the dirt requires more handling skill. Bike weight isn't always a factor.
    Not trying to be a dick but I can say the same thing about tires… Ride the race tires and become a better rider and sliding the front won't be a big issue. This isn't motorcycle racing and people make a much bigger deal out of bicycle tires then there needs to be. The best race tire is the one light enough to not worry about flatting. Everything else is rider skill.
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    That Ritchey tire reminds me of my Race Kings. I have 1300 miles on my Race Kings (sport folding version) this year and the only time I flatted was when my sealant had dried up (and getting a puncture).

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    ^^I was thinking the same, though the knobs look a little higher, so perhaps better as a front.

    Last season was the first that I tried a RK, and I was surprised by how much grip it has as a rear tire, especially in steep climbs; however, I found that it was a strategic selection to use it only on courses that were mostly hardpack. As soon as it was greasy or muddy, it slid around too much. (Perhaps this is obvious by the knob profile...?) I stick with the Rocket Ron in the rear, most of the time, and my times have shown that it performs well.

    On a slightly relevant side note, I'll say that I often "train" on a heavier set of wheels: WTB i19 in front w/ Hans D pacestar; i23 in rear w/ Bronson. (An AM setup?). Then switch to carbon w/ Nic and Ron.

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    Well any low knob tire is going to struggle with grease because the low knob height isn't going to penetrate far enough, especially when it gets packed. My Race Kings don't do well in the grease, for that I switch over to Rocket Rons.

    However I have ran the Race Kings front and back 98% of the time and have really enjoyed them. I don't even have the Black Chili version as I just picked up some cheap takeoffs on ebay since I needed a go everywhere tire that rolled fast. That and the Rocket Ron in the rear was wearing way too fast due to really soft compound.

    I am thinking about getting the Black Chili Race Kings next season to see how they compare.

  36. #36
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    I like my Race King, but the sidewalls are wearing out on me. There is still plenty of tread but I'm starting to wonder if it's still safe to ride with all the cords showing through on the sides. I think it would be an ideal tire if they just made the tread at least as wide as the casing.

  37. #37
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    Experimented with race tires today

    Quote Originally Posted by spsoon View Post
    I like my Race King, but the sidewalls are wearing out on me. There is still plenty of tread but I'm starting to wonder if it's still safe to ride with all the cords showing through on the sides. I think it would be an ideal tire if they just made the tread at least as wide as the casing.
    Unless the casing cords are actually frayed and broken there is no problem with strength.
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  38. #38
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    Race Kings... urghh... Just plain dangerous on our dusty loose over hard. Highlights how different tires work for different people in different conditions.

  39. #39
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    Re: Experimented with race tires today

    Quote Originally Posted by craign View Post
    Race Kings... urghh... Just plain dangerous on our dusty loose over hard. Highlights how different tires work for different people in different conditions.
    What have you liked for loose over hard?

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  40. #40
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    I used them over dusty loose over hard with no problems.

  41. #41
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    Ignitor, Ikon seem much better in most of my riding buddies experience. For Conti you need a X-King if you want any grip around here.

    Zephxiii we must have very different loose over hard. Here the Race kings break loose early with little warning and with basically no side knobs never give you a chance to recover. Whereas something like a Crossmark will break in similar circumstance, but the side knobs give you a chance to catch it.

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    I ran Bonty 29-1 all summer here in rocky rooty virginia. Swapping to Rons next season to save weight and so I can have better grip in the wet.

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    Well riding them enough to put 1300 miles on them, you get used to them and learn how to handle their characteristics. This year we had some dry powdery/loose over hard as we normally have and I dunno, once I got used to them I was fine. There was one trail system where I bumped up the front tire to a Rocket Ron because it was so loose but the rear tire was fine, I was actually impressed by it. The only other time I ran the RRs was when it got greasy out late this fall. I don't even have the Black Chili versions!

    Last year though with all that heat and dry weather it got super loose over hard and I switched from a Race King up front on my 26er to a Captain Control.

    Julie Bresset won her Olympic Gold Medal on a set of Race Kings and that course was pretty loose. The guy who the last World Cup XC Eliminator race was on a set of RKs too. They are pretty legit.
    Last edited by zephxiii; 12-13-2013 at 04:42 AM.

  44. #44
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    You and them must be better riders than I.

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    I have run the 2.2 RK Supersonics with Black Chilli F&R for about four years and feel comfortable with what they can do IMO. The tires are mostly run on hard pack, soft forest loam, and some sticky mud with a lot of roots. In these conditions the tires really perform well, and do better than other tires I have tried. They squirm a little when corning, but if you put some weight on the tires they grip extremely well.

    I do not experience loose over hard, on my trails but have seen some loose sloppy mud. The tires do not do well in loose mud.

    Every year I buy a different type of tire just to try it, and then end up replacing them with RK's. Light, grippy, and fast.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    Not trying to be a dick but I can say the same thing about tires… Ride the race tires and become a better rider and sliding the front won't be a big issue. This isn't motorcycle racing and people make a much bigger deal out of bicycle tires then there needs to be. The best race tire is the one light enough to not worry about flatting. Everything else is rider skill.
    I sometimes ride with a friend who's a former pro downhill racer. One thing I learned, following him on my FS 29er with big gnarly tires and him on his HT SS 29er with 2" Stan's Crows, is that tires don't matter as much as we think they do. I've confirmed that by racing 'cross on file tread tires.

  47. #47
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    Tire width, pressure, and compound seem to make far more of a difference than the tread design, in my experience.

    I'd love a RK or Shield WCS-like tire from Schwalbe. They have awesome rubber, but their side knobs are too long with too little support. They either fold, or in other people's experience, tear, under hard cornering.
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