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  1. #1
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    29er XC hardtail choices and industry direction???

    Hi Everyone,

    I am researching a new 29er carbon hardtail, asking friends who work at shops and getting a lot of input. My head is spinning.

    To say I've narrowed my choices down would be a lie because I am being told to stay away from BB30(Cannondale) and PF30 style frames due to premature bearing wear. The shops that sell Specialized and Cannondale are seeing bearing wear out in a few months in spring riding conditions. Are you guys wearing out bearings fast? Should I stay with a standard shimano bb carbon bike?

    Finally it seems like 142x12 rear end is moving pretty fast but all the bikes are 135. I guess I don't mind 135mm but are 142x12 carbon hardtails coming next season? I know Santa Cruz Highball is already 142x12, but I don't want to spend $6000+ on a bike knowing in 5 months 142x12 will be the norm for the future.

    Finally, can you list the carbon frame you have and the bare frame weight? Not super weight weenie but I don't want an anchor.

    Insight and local your knowledge is greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Why only carbon and big brand bikes? +6k gets you into custom and then you have a lot more options.

  3. #3
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    29er XC hardtail choices and industry direction???

    A frame with a PF30 bottom bracket shell can be easily adapted using a SRAM PF30 to BSA English threads adapter. That adapter allows you to use a standard outboard bottom bracket of your choice (eg: Shimano Deore XT). On my bike that setup worked well with no creaking from the bottom bracket or premature bearing wear issues.

    http://www.artscyclery.com/descpage-SRPF30BSAES.html

  4. #4
    ups and downs
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    Rocky Mountain 29" Vertex 950 RSL carbon hardtail already has 142x12 rear
    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  5. #5
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    29er XC hardtail choices and industry direction???

    Lots of current carbon fibre frames come with their own variation on the press fit bottom bracket, each bike manufacturer confusingly using a slightly different size, which makes it harder to source the correct replacement in future. There aren't many carbon fibre frames that come with a threaded bottom bracket shell anymore.

    There isn't much standardisation at the moment so having an easily identifiable bottom bracket shell size, such as PF30, is an advantage. The benefit of PF30, when compared to the competing press fit sizes, is that it's compatible with a wider range of chainsets (both 24mm and 30mm diameter spindles) and also a wider range of bottom brackets (using a threaded press in adapter) .

    This thread about bottom brackets explains the different sizes.

    http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/articl...rackets-36660/

    Bottom Bracket Standards - a guide to BB30, PF30, and Outboard Bearing compatibility
    Last edited by WR304; 05-11-2013 at 06:04 PM.

  6. #6
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    I'm not sure i understand your opposition to bb30 and pf30. I've dusted standard 24mm outboards as often as bb30 bearings. No real difference if you ask me.

  7. #7
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    I've never understood what people think a 142mm TA will do for a HARDTAIL.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    I've never understood what people think a 142mm TA will do for a HARDTAIL.
    Makes it take longer to change your rear wheel, duh!

  9. #9
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    Your friends might be right but I don't see a technical reason why bb30 or PF30 should last any less time than an HT2 style BB.

    What makes a difference in my experience is bearing material. No bottom bracket should ever be sold without stainless bearings (or ceramic) IMO.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    I've never understood what people think a 142mm TA will do for a HARDTAIL.
    Allows you to use the same set of wheels on your dually and hard tail. Performance wise makes the same difference that it makes on a dually ( which would be nothing).
    "The best pace is suicide pace, and today is a good day to die." Steve Prefontaine

  11. #11
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    29er XC hardtail choices and industry direction???

    One thing that will extend bottom bracket bearing life is to make sure that the drain hole in the frame bottom bracket shell is open and not obstructed.

    The drain hole allows water to run out from inside the bottom bracket shell after riding in the rain. If water gets inside the bottom bracket shell and can't get out it will corrode the bearings and shorten their life significantly.

    The bottom bracket drain hole on some frames isn't always drilled through from new, or is sometimes blocked by protective tape. If there isn't a drain hole or it's blocked then it's worth using a drill to open the hole up properly. On my current bike a plastic shield covers the bottom bracket and the hole hadn't been fully drilled through the carbon fibre of the bottom bracket shell either. One of the tasks whilst getting the frame ready was to drill through the bottom bracket shell so that the drain hole would work.

    The more time you spend riding in the wet the more important this is to do.



    On a mountain bike when riding in mud the drain hole can clog frequently. After a wet ride you'll often need to poke the mud out of the drain hole to let any water trapped inside out.

  12. #12
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    29er XC hardtail choices and industry direction???

    Quote Originally Posted by WR304 View Post
    One thing that will extend bottom bracket bearing life is to make sure that the drain hole in the frame bottom bracket shell is open and not obstructed.

    The drain hole allows water to run out from inside the bottom bracket shell after riding in the rain. If water gets inside the bottom bracket shell and can't get out it will corrode the bearings and shorten their life significantly.

    The bottom bracket drain hole on some frames isn't always drilled through from new, or is sometimes blocked by protective tape. If there isn't a drain hole or it's blocked then it's worth using a drill to open the hole up properly. On my current bike a plastic shield covers the bottom bracket and the hole hadn't been fully drilled through the carbon fibre of the bottom bracket shell either. One of the tasks whilst getting the frame ready was to drill through the bottom bracket shell so that the drain hole would work.

    The more time you spend riding in the wet the more important this is to do.



    On a mountain bike when riding in mud the drain hole can clog frequently. After a wet ride you'll often need to poke the mud out of the drain hole to let any water trapped inside out.
    This.

  13. #13
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    I have not heard about the bb30 wearing faster in the woods specifically, but I do know they last about 4 months on my road bike. I ride on the road in all conditions: rain, dusty dirt roads, etc.. If this is the case on the road, I would imagine it would be even worse in the woods.

    I recently switched to ceramic bearings on the road after reading an article about their longer life. Have only had them about 3 months so far, so I can't tell for sure.

    All that being said, I would get the bike that you like the most, rides the best and is in your price range. The technology of every bike becomes outdated or changes at some point.

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