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  1. #1
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    Price Drop: Crossmax XL for $425

    I doubt there are many left as Speedgoat moved them off the Homepage and dropped the price from 450 clearance price to 425.

  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    Thanks for catching that....

    I did not read it carefully enough.... rim brakes indeed.

    Best I see for discs is JensonUSA for $527 and willing to pricematch if you do find it lower.

  4. #4
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    And oh man... if you DO find it lower, please let me know! I'm just days away from pulling the trigger. Sounds like all the models change next year, and there will be no more XL.
    -= Darell The EVnut

  5. #5
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    I bought a set last week, Disk and UST ready.

    http://www.speedgoat.com/product.asp?part=82018

    (sorry I just realized you wanted XL - these are Enduro not XL)

  6. #6
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    Thanks! Yes, that's a pretty good deal on the Enduro's. I see Jenson no longer has them listed, though Jenson does still have the XL's... for $100 more than apparently SpeedGoat had them for last week. Grrr.
    -= Darell The EVnut

  7. #7
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    That's what I heard too- no more XLs for 2007. The new ones (SX and ST maybe?) are coming out and should be easy to find in $550-$600 range though I'm sure the MSRP will be over $800 . I'm not sure on the weight but I'm quite sure they are silver. Silver is the new black though.

  8. #8
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    another difference between 06-07 mavics

    As I understand it, could be wrong, there will not be a front hub like the XL that is both QR and 20mm in the same weight range. Only heavier models will have that feature and the lighter wheelsets will be QR only.

  9. #9
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    Well, I finally got tired of screwing around, and bought the Enduros from SpeedGoat.

    Now I just need to wait for all the goods to show up so I can build this thing!
    -= Darell The EVnut

  10. #10
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    The ideal XL buyer wont ride them much and is liking the burly looking spokes. POS!
    Mavic customer service BLOWS

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by pedaler845
    The ideal XL buyer wont ride them much and is liking the burly looking spokes. POS!
    Mavic customer service BLOWS
    Not the first time I've heard any of this. I will say that the guys at Speed Goat say that they haven't had any more issues with the Mavic hubs than with any other wheel short of untils with King hubs. I sure hear some scary stories in the review section here though. That's one reason why I decided to cut my losses and go with a cheaper set (Enduro) than the XL's.

    If anybody has a great XL substitute (rim strength, better hub, etc) I'm willing to listen - though I'm starting with the Enduro's since I just paid for 'em!
    -= Darell The EVnut

  12. #12
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    If anybody has a great XL substitute (rim strength, better hub, etc) I'm willing to listen - though I'm starting with the Enduro's since I just paid for 'em![/QUOTE]
    easton am havoc,450 on sale price-point.

  13. #13
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    Ust!

    Ah... I should have mentioned that UST is a requirement. From what I hear, Mavic makes the best UST rims, at least. And I'm talking about *native* UST, not Stan's.
    -= Darell The EVnut

  14. #14
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    The mavic hubs are great if you do the maintence. If you don't you will have problems.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Hair Boy
    The mavic hubs are great if you do the maintence. If you don't you will have problems.
    I've heard about the maintenance bit... using mineral oil and all that. But where do we find out about the maintenance needed? Certainly not from the owner's manuals that came with the wheels! Is there something online that I can't find?
    -= Darell The EVnut

  16. #16
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    Found it!

    Hey look at that, I managed to find it all by myself. Though not listed, I assume this is the same (confusing) procedure for the Enduros (which just showed up today). Supposed to replace a part every time this is done?
    http://www.mavic.com/e_upload/pdf/Us..._FWB_FTS_L.pdf
    Last edited by darelldd; 10-30-2006 at 06:40 PM.
    -= Darell The EVnut

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by darelldd
    Hey look at that, I managed to find it all by myself. Though not listed, I assume this is the same (confusing) procedure for the Enduros (which just showed up today). Supposed to replace a part every time this is done?
    http://www.mavic.com/e_upload/pdf/Us..._FWB_FTS_L.pdf
    Hey thanx for posting that d!
    I've had my shop do it quarterly. I dont know if they f*cked up, but the pawls just needed replacement on my rear, and they said the hub was worth it but showing wear. That was $95 on top of about the same amount for "preventive" maintenance I've spent on em for 2 seasons. That and I was without them 2 months when the first hub was under warranty. Ive had better luck with cheaper Mavics, thats what kills me.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by pedaler845
    Hey thanx for posting that d!
    I've had my shop do it quarterly. I dont know if they f*cked up, but the pawls just needed replacement on my rear, and they said the hub was worth it but showing wear. That was $95 on top of about the same amount for "preventive" maintenance I've spent on em for 2 seasons. That and I was without them 2 months when the first hub was under warranty. Ive had better luck with cheaper Mavics, thats what kills me.
    If you paid $95 for new pawls, you need a new shop. They should be about $5 at most each x 2.

    You can do the maintenance - which amounts to using an allen wrench, using a rag to clean, and rubbing lube on with your finger - in 10 minutes. You can clean your cassette while your at it and have the shiny clean feeling when you're done.

    I've had XL's for 2 full seasons and love the wheels. They're relatively light, stay true and the hub engagement is simple and easy to maintain. I bought XL's for my wife's new bike since they have been so good on mine and the hub is so easy to take apart. I plan to buy them again on my new ride....if I can ever decide which bike that'll be

    If you don't plan to ever do maintenance, you will have problems on lots of moving parts on your bike - not just the wheels.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashtoomuch
    You can do the maintenance - which amounts to using an allen wrench, using a rag to clean, and rubbing lube on with your finger - in 10 minutes. You can clean your cassette while your at it and have the shiny clean feeling when you're done.
    Sure sounds easy! I haven't bothered to take them apart yet. Maybe I should while they're all new and clean. Is it obvious what needs to be done by looking at them? Reading the instructions just makes me go I figure if I can build a whole bike, I can probably figure this out, eh? But wow - I've got no idea what the instructions are talking about.
    Last edited by darelldd; 11-01-2006 at 07:51 PM.
    -= Darell The EVnut

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by darelldd
    Sure sounds easy! I haven't bothered to take them apart yet. Maybe I should while they're all new and clean. Is it obvious what needs to be done by looking at them? Reading the instructions just makes me go I figure if I can build a whole bike, I can probably figure this out, eh? But wow - I've got no idea what the instructions are talking about.
    A kind biker-chick kicked my butt climbing, then felt sorry for me and gave me a great write up of how to pull the hub apart. The only change that I made was to use mineral oil in lieu of gear oil. I'm a bike wrench newbie, so if I can do it, anyone can.

    Mavic Hub Maintenance

    First take the cassette off. It can be tricky opening the hub up without losing the pawls and tiny springs.

    On the non-drive side end of the hub body, the end of the hub should pull straight out. It's a cap of sorts. It has to be firmly grasped, jiggled, and pulled -- all at the same time. Once it pops out, insert a #10 allen wrench into the non-drive side of the hub, and insert a #4 allen wrench into the drive-side.

    Holding the #10 firmly, unscrew the #4. Don't know the technical term for it, but there's a part that the skewer goes through, that holds the ratchet assembly together (it looks sort of looks like a hollow 1/4" bolt ~1.5" long). Remove it.

    The piece that the cassette fits over can be gently pulled off, away from the hub body (careful, this is the part where the snakes can pop out...) Slowly pull this part off the hub body. The pawls and springs are underneath, both of which simply ride in grooves machined into the underlying hub body.

    IMPORTANT: Now that you have it open, don't forget that these little pawls and springs (two of each) can simply fall off the hub body onto the floor, never to be found again.

    REALLY IMPORTANT: Look inside the part that you just removed and look at the end of the hub body. There's a washer (that acts more as a spacer) that needs to be returned to the assembly, or your freewheel won't work. Locate this washer and set it aside. Now the hard part's over. Clean everything thoroughly.

    EVEN MORE IMPORTANT: For some reason Mavic didn't tell anyone including bike mechanics about this. But here's the big secret: DO NOT USE GREASE TO RE-LUBE THE HUB. It's too heavy, it won't allow the pawls to engage quickly enough, causing skipping and the eventual trashing of the entire assembly. Mavic makes a special oil, and no, it's not available. To anyone. A good substitute for their special oil is 90 wt. gear oil or motor oil.

    Put a thin coating of the gear oil on all the internal parts and reassemble. But before you do so, don't forget to put the washer/spacer back in its proper position before closing up the hub. When you turn the freewheel, it should have a distinct ratchet clicking sound, as loud or louder than before. The clicking is the sound of the pawls working. If you don't hear them, there's a problem.

  21. #21
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    I love you crash!...

    Though I think I'd rather meet your climb-goddess.

    I've saved this off, and I'll have a go at it. I keep hearing that you can use plain old mineral oil for the lub inside. Mineral oil is cheap and can be bought at places like Long's Drugs (is that a national chain?) Any sort of drug store should have it. It may be used for some scary hygiene projects.... not sure. Anyway, I've got some out in the shop. Now I almost wish I'd bought the more expensive XL's.
    -= Darell The EVnut

  22. #22
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    You can use. . .

    Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil or Pedro's Road Rage. I use 5w-20 and I lub my freehub every sixth ride. It's very easy to do.

  23. #23
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    Good to know.

    Thanks for the input.

    Out of curiousity, are there any good/light/strong hubs out there that require less regular maintenance? My big heavy Phill Wood hubs on my 1985 rigid have needed my attention exactly once in the past 20 years. I replaced the sealed bearings for $18/wheel. Of course the freewheel is in the cassette on these old wheels, so that may be a big diff. But then I've also only replaced the cassette/freewheel once in 20 years and too many thousands of miles to count.
    -= Darell The EVnut

  24. #24
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    Sorry to coninue this part of the discussion here...

    It appears that the instructions that I linked to... and the instructions posted above do NOT pertain to the Enduro wheels. Does anybody have info on the maintenance process for the Enduro's? I've just sent an Email to SpeedGoat to see what they've got. Took my first ride in the wet last weekend. Sure enough, they are dragging and need help.
    -= Darell The EVnut

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