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  1. #1
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    WTB i19 handbuilt versus Easton EA90 XC 29er

    Hello all:

    Another this wheel or that wheel thread.

    Here is the wheels I spec'd from LM29:

    WTB i19 UST 29" rims, 32h, black (385 grams per rim)
    Shimano XT M756 disc hubs, 32h, black, QR. Skewers included. (302g front, 495 g rear)
    DT Swiss SuperComp triple butted spokes, black (64 spoke = 318 grams)
    DT Swiss Prolock alloy nips, black. (64 nips, 20 grams)

    I calculate this to have a total weight of 1905 grams

    The other wheel I am interested in is the Easton EA90XC 29er. with a claimed weight of 1697.

    I want a UST wheel.

    I weigh 160 pounds, I do lots of road racing and some MTB racing. I assume that the 32 spoke wheels will be stronge but how much will the weight difference really matter?

    Thanks for thoughts, and opinions!

    Steve.

  2. #2
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    The weight difference is a lot more in the hubs than the spokes. Shimano M756 hubs are solid but boat anchors. You could easily lose 200-300 grams in the hubs with something like Hope Pro 2 Evo, DT 350, or American Classic hubs.
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  3. #3
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    If you're already springing for supercomps and alloy nips, you might as well go for some nice hubs. I personally wouldn't lipstick a pig unless you already had some of those parts.

    If it is a question of budget (are you looking to save money, or going for the same amount as the UST eastons?) build the wheel on a budget. Better to get less expensive spokes and nips and go in for a more expensive (lighter) hub. As Bike Whisperer said, you can easily lose 100 or more grams for a hub, whereas you are only saving a fraction (or very close) of that between the spokes and nips.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by wschruba View Post
    If you're already springing for supercomps and alloy nips, you might as well go for some nice hubs. I personally wouldn't lipstick a pig unless you already had some of those parts.

    If it is a question of budget (are you looking to save money, or going for the same amount as the UST eastons?) build the wheel on a budget. Better to get less expensive spokes and nips and go in for a more expensive (lighter) hub. As Bike Whisperer said, you can easily lose 100 or more grams for a hub, whereas you are only saving a fraction (or very close) of that between the spokes and nips.
    I disagree, hub weight is much less a factor than spoke , nipple ,rim and tire weight. If you have a budget save on the hubs if they are reliable and splurge on the outboard rotating weight.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpokaneSteve View Post
    Hello all:

    Another this wheel or that wheel thread.

    Here is the wheels I spec'd from LM29:

    WTB i19 UST 29" rims, 32h, black (385 grams per rim)
    Shimano XT M756 disc hubs, 32h, black, QR. Skewers included. (302g front, 495 g rear)
    DT Swiss SuperComp triple butted spokes, black (64 spoke = 318 grams)
    DT Swiss Prolock alloy nips, black. (64 nips, 20 grams)

    I calculate this to have a total weight of 1905 grams

    The other wheel I am interested in is the Easton EA90XC 29er. with a claimed weight of 1697.

    I want a UST wheel.

    I weigh 160 pounds, I do lots of road racing and some MTB racing. I assume that the 32 spoke wheels will be stronge but how much will the weight difference really matter?

    Thanks for thoughts, and opinions!

    Steve.
    My 29er WTB i19's weigh closer to 450 grams.

  6. #6
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    Use SLX hubs, they're about the same price and lighter... or any of the tons of other light hubs out there. Those XT hubs are boatanchors if you're concerned with weight.

    Eastons break. A lot. Bearings and hubs and spokes and everything else imaginable. I wouldnt buy anything from easton.

  7. #7
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    New weight calcuation:

    Thanks for the information. According to the WTB website the 29er rims weigh 435. I see that Supersleeper's came in at 450 grams per. My revised weigh calculation would thus be (optimistically) as follows:

    WTB i19 UST 29" rims, 32h, black (435 grams per rim)
    Shimano XT M756 disc hubs, 32h, black, QR. Skewers included. (302g front, 495 g rear)
    DT Swiss SuperComp triple butted spokes, black (64 spoke = 318 grams)
    DT Swiss Prolock alloy nips, black. (64 nips, 20 grams)

    Total 2005 grams. That's 300 grams more than the Eastons or 10 oz, more than 1/2 a pound.

    I'm looking into the cost of lighter hubs. Anything else besides DT350s or Hopes that I should consider to try to drop 200-300 grams from my current 800 grams hubset?

    Thanks, Steve.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpokaneSteve View Post

    I'm looking into the cost of lighter hubs. Anything else besides DT350s or Hopes that I should consider to try to drop 200-300 grams from my current 800 grams hubset?

    Thanks, Steve.
    Depends on budget, but in the same price range you could look at American Classic and White Industries as well.

    On the cheap end, you might look at the Bitex hubs (MTB252) which are 6 pawl, 48 poe and very light
    Rear MTB Hubs
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  9. #9
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    I just built my first set of wheels, for the 29er hardtail I'm assembling (sloooowly...). I used WTB i19 rims, DT Competition spokes, DT allow nipples and XT M785 hubs (centerlock). The total weight (without skewers) of the two wheels came out to almost exactly 1800 g. The front was 820 g, the rear 982 g which is essentially the claimed difference in hub weight. Just to give a reference point.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bike Whisperer View Post
    Depends on budget, but in the same price range you could look at American Classic and White Industries as well.

    On the cheap end, you might look at the Bitex hubs (MTB252) which are 6 pawl, 48 poe and very light
    Rear MTB Hubs
    They're sort of not really bitex... sort of. Extremely similar, but BHS has a little better pawl system in theirs. Its kind of an open-source hub design, but BHS got the better one.

    Ive used them for road and MTB and have zero complaints, they work quite well. Bearings arent the best, but thats an easy fix (or just ride them, they're good enough bearings). They're also extremely light and cheap. They're definitely on the low end of cost, but I think they're better than most asian stuff. I liked them significantly more than my drastically more expensive WTB/AC hubs.

  11. #11
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    Sounds like the MTB252 has surpassed the Shimano m629 in the value quotient? Value of course never being cheap, not gold-plated, just best combination of durability, long life, ease of maintenance. Any long term reviews on either?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by constmgr View Post
    Sounds like the MTB252 has surpassed the Shimano m629 in the value quotient? Value of course never being cheap, not gold-plated, just best combination of durability, long life, ease of maintenance. Any long term reviews on either?
    I think surpassed is overstating it a wee bit. The M629 and M665 (same hub, different color) are using tried and true Shimano cup and cone bearings with cro-mo axles. The freehub body is the very solid "29er" 32 poe cromoly unit. They just aren't light...though lighter than the M756 hubs.

    The Bitex hubs (or apparently the very similar MTB252) have some good feedback and are very well priced for such a light hub with a high engagement freehub body.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bike Whisperer View Post
    On the cheap end, you might look at the Bitex hubs (MTB252) which are 6 pawl, 48 poe and very light
    Rear MTB Hubs
    How do they compare with the Rotaz hubs that are sold on the same site?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    They're sort of not really bitex... sort of. Extremely similar, but BHS has a little better pawl system in theirs. Its kind of an open-source hub design, but BHS got the better one.
    Is BHS and Bitex the same thing?

  15. #15
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    Do NOT buy Easton wheels until reading reviews. Spend a little time in Review section as it could save you some frustration. I love my i23 rims on single speed King hubs. Guy from Wrench Science that built these wheels still favors Stans after working with my i23 set. I did 5 Downieville runs for 1st 5 rides, rode all summer, and rim rode a flat (super buff trail) 1/2 mile and these wheels did not need to be trued yet. Just a little tweak of 2 or 3 nipples. Very tough.

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