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  1. #201
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    OK, just got my pair of i23's at the post office. 485 and 482 grams with the badge, not as light as advertised.

    There is some solid gray residue left on the inside of the bead hook, anybody else seen that? Like a tire had been mounted tubeless and that's the leftover sealant, which is of course a crazy idea since the rim is brand new (or at least is said to be).

    They seem to have some flex when I squeeze them with my arms, is that ok?

    J Random, I see your point, but the problem is, our wheelbuilder doesn't want to to take the "110kgf" figures into account Like he's been building his wheels with some tension tables, and those 110kgf are totally unnecessary. Maybe I'm using wrong terms when giving him the tension data?

    As far as the uneven drilling goes, well, this pair has it as well, that is, some eyelet facets are about 3-4mm wide, some 1-2mm, that's probably what the builder has noticed as well. Is that ok?

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaWiseNuthatch View Post
    OK, just got my pair of i23's at the post office. 485 and 482 grams with the badge, not as light as advertised.
    This is normal I think. I've only seen weights around 480 g too.


    Quote Originally Posted by DaWiseNuthatch View Post
    There is some solid gray residue left on the inside of the bead hook, anybody else seen that? Like a tire had been mounted tubeless and that's the leftover sealant, which is of course a crazy idea since the rim is brand new (or at least is said to be).
    All Frequency rims that I built with had some very noticeable uneven anodizing (discoloration) in the tire channel, but never a residue.


    Quote Originally Posted by DaWiseNuthatch View Post
    They seem to have some flex when I squeeze them with my arms, is that ok?
    Well, why not. This can be felt even in high profile rims such as Giant P-XC when squeezing them radially.

    Quote Originally Posted by DaWiseNuthatch View Post
    J Random, I see your point, but the problem is, our wheelbuilder doesn't want to to take the "110kgf" figures into account Like he's been building his wheels with some tension tables, and those 110kgf are totally unnecessary. Maybe I'm using wrong terms when giving him the tension data?
    He's probably referring to tensiometer conversion tables. Both 110 and 120 kgf readings should be present in such tables for whatever tensiometer he may be using.

    Is he suggesting that 110 kgf is too low?

    Quote Originally Posted by DaWiseNuthatch View Post
    As far as the uneven drilling goes, well, this pair has it as well, that is, some eyelet facets are about 3-4mm wide, some 1-2mm, that's probably what the builder has noticed as well. Is that ok?
    Now that doesn't sound good!

    Extrusion profile is constant throughout the rim, thus it sounds exactly like drilling has been made to uneven depth, as if the rim was ever so slightly wavy and the drill bit always went to a fixed depth relative to the machine, not to the rim material.
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  3. #203
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    I had some grey residue in mine too.

  4. #204
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    I just setup my wheels tonight (xt hubs and i23 rims). The rims had no residue on the inner surface, but they were a little dirty. I set the wheels up tubeless with some WTB Stout 2.3 tires using a Stan's kit. Everything went smoothly and I was able to set the bead with my floor pump. No compressor needed. At this point, I'm very happy with them. I'm sure that opinion won't change very much once I finally get the bike together.

  5. #205
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    Regular folding bead tires (Schwalbe) with I23s? Yay or nay? Just wondering how these will setup tubeless with non TL-Ready tires.

  6. #206
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    I just got the new Moto Fantom 29 Pro and it came with WTB Speeddisc I19 rims. If I were to purchase the WTB Frequency I23 rims, could I just swap out rims and be done? I can't find any full I23 wheelsets anywhere.

  7. #207
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    Hi Larsin,

    The rims have different ERD dimensions, which means different spoke lengths are required. Think custom wheel build. Easy to do.

    Quote Originally Posted by Larsin View Post
    I just got the new Moto Fantom 29 Pro and it came with WTB Speeddisc I19 rims. If I were to purchase the WTB Frequency I23 rims, could I just swap out rims and be done? I can't find any full I23 wheelsets anywhere.
    Hey everybody, ride my wheels! They ride good, real good.
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  8. #208
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    4slomo,

    Thank you for the response. I will research that further and hopefully be wheel-building soon!

    Larsin

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by in the trees View Post
    Regular folding bead tires (Schwalbe) with I23s? Yay or nay? Just wondering how these will setup tubeless with non TL-Ready tires.
    nay. earlier this year I ordered what I thought were TL version of the Fat Albert and mounted them to my i23 (26"). They would blow off on every medium sized jump and under hard cornering. Took me an email to Schwalbe with the serial # to find out they weren't TL ready. Starting last year (I think), all of Schwalbe tires are TL ready, even if they're folding bead. The tires I had bought were older still.
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  10. #210
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    So I've been following this thread from the beginning. I'm leaning towards using the i23's. I have found about 3 sets of these wheels built up with DT Swiss 350 hubs. 2 are brand new and 1 used. My question is in regards to the DT 350's. Is it a quality hub? How many poe's? Any issues with them from any users here? I'm 6'2" 180 with gear.
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  11. #211
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    Well after a warrantied rim, and a good few rides back under me, I'm happy to report no further issues! The rim in question did indeed have far too much spoke tension, and coupled with me being an awful wheel builder, the torn spoke hole was kind of inevitable really. So this time I ponied up a few bucks and had my shop lace it up and check my front wheel for correct tension while they were at it! Awesome rims, light, really stiff, and make my 2.2 tires look (and grip) like 2.4's!
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  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevinboyer View Post
    So I've been following this thread from the beginning. I'm leaning towards using the i23's. I have found about 3 sets of these wheels built up with DT Swiss 350 hubs. 2 are brand new and 1 used. My question is in regards to the DT 350's. Is it a quality hub? How many poe's? Any issues with them from any users here? I'm 6'2" 180 with gear.
    350 should be very solid hubs. They replace 340 in DT lineup. As a Star Ratchet type hub, they have 18 POE stock and can be upgraded to 36 POE, but the latter is much more demanding with respect to correct greasing. The coasting mechanism is very modular and lightweight. Water sealing is excellent and AFAIK second to none (although this is speaking from experience with 240 and 340 hubs).


    Spykr,
    that's good news. Directional drilling certainly makes it easy to keep tightening the spokes beyond 120 kgf.
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  13. #213
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    [QUOTE=J. Random Psycho;9799852]350 should be very solid hubs. They replace 340 in DT lineup. As a Star Ratchet type hub, they have 18 POE stock and can be upgraded to 36 POE, but the latter is much more demanding with respect to correct greasing. The coasting mechanism is very modular and lightweight. Water sealing is excellent and AFAIK second to none (although this is speaking from experience with 240 and 340 hubs).


    Thanks J. Random Psycho. Is 18 POE a "good" number when it comes to POE?
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  14. #214
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    kevinboyer,
    well... that depends on whether you have already tasted high POE hubs )
    16-18 feels broken at first if you're used to, say, 48.
    Modern top of the line hubs have those numbers at like 72 and 120.
    Mid range hubs are at numbers like 24, 30 and 36.

    Personally I'm fine with 24 (Hammerschmidt to fixed hub) and can get used to 18 if needed.
    On another bike I'm just as fine with 48 (Hope Pro 2 Trials) but going to go back to instant engaging silent clutch (True Precision Poacher). Ahhh, the silence.

    DT Swiss Star Ratchet hubs are rather quiet at 18 POE, by the way. And you don't have to apply lots of grease to achieve it. That's very good in my book.
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  15. #215
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    What width of WTB rim tape are you guys using for the i23? The 28 mm?

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by cackalacky View Post
    What width of WTB rim tape are you guys using for the i23? The 28 mm?
    Yes, use the 28mm tape.
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  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by cackalacky View Post
    What width of WTB rim tape are you guys using for the i23? The 28 mm?
    1" Gorilla Tape fits as well.

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by in the trees View Post
    1" Gorilla Tape fits as well.
    Thick tape adversely affects the bead lock shape.
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  19. #219
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    Bringing back an old thread,

    Im looking to build a set of i23 rims on dt swiss 240 hubs to replace my tired Mavis sx wheel set. I have only built a handful of wheels and I'm having trouble deciding if I should go with dt swiss super comp or comp spokes? I'm 190lbs ready to ride. I want a light but strong wheel set for trail/am riding with drops to 4' with smooth landings. Nothing to aggressive and no bike park use. Will the comp spokes be noticeably more stiff than the super comp spokes at hard corners/hard pedaling?

  20. #220
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    I'd go with super comps. A 32-spoke, 3-cross laced wheel (what i23 are designed for) is going to be stiff enough laterally and torsionally with any conceivable spokes, but with thinner spokes it will be stronger.
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  21. #221
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    How is an i19 compared to the Arch? I'm talking about durability and feel. Is it easier to mount a tire on a wider or narrower inner rim width, 19 vs 21?
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  22. #222
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    I've had Arches then i23's and now FlowEX 650b's.
    I think they are all very equivalent in terms of durability, stiffness, and ease of build.
    The only trouble I had was with the Stan's rear hub.
    I haven't seen any difference in mounting tires on either of my Stan's vs the WTB hoops. All were very easy. I haven't ever had to use anything other than a floor pump to set up tires tubeless.

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    I've had Arches then i23's and now FlowEX 650b's.
    I think they are all very equivalent in terms of durability, stiffness, and ease of build.
    The only trouble I had was with the Stan's rear hub.
    I haven't seen any difference in mounting tires on either of my Stan's vs the WTB hoops. All were very easy. I haven't ever had to use anything other than a floor pump to set up tires tubeless.
    That's all I needed to hear. Thanks and a rep +
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  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by J3SSEB View Post
    How is an i19 compared to the Arch? I'm talking about durability and feel. Is it easier to mount a tire on a wider or narrower inner rim width, 19 vs 21?

    Pretty much what mestapho said.

    I've got a mix of Arch, Flow, and i19 rims in use on three different bikes - functionally, when getting them up and running tubeless, I've not been able to tell a difference. They've all been equally easy.

    Caveat: all with yellow tape, a cup of sealant, and either tubeless ready or full UST tires.

    I'm not a hack, ride fairly smoothly, am only 150# soaking wet, and have not been gentle with any of them - they're all working beautifully.

    If you're a much larger mammal, or ride like a bowling ball, then the wider rims may work out better, or if you want to run biiiig tires.
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  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover View Post
    Pretty much what mestapho said.

    I've got a mix of Arch, Flow, and i19 rims in use on three different bikes - functionally, when getting them up and running tubeless, I've not been able to tell a difference. They've all been equally easy.

    Caveat: all with yellow tape, a cup of sealant, and either tubeless ready or full UST tires.

    I'm not a hack, ride fairly smoothly, am only 150# soaking wet, and have not been gentle with any of them - they're all working beautifully.

    If you're a much larger mammal, or ride like a bowling ball, then the wider rims may work out better, or if you want to run biiiig tires.
    I am a bit larger fella, 220 lbs, and I currently use Archs without issue. I'm looking at the i19 because of its price. I can get it about $30 cheaper than the Arch. I was just concerned about the width of the rim. I may give them a try on my single speed. Thanks for the input scrublover.
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  26. #226
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    10 months on WTB i23 set up with db spokes on King hubs, Geax Gato Tubeless ready 28psi. Downieville runs, 1500 ft local downhill runs, and I ride 3 or 4 days per week. Rim rode 1/2 mile out on a flat tire once(on smooth dirt). These are GREAT. Took to wheelbuilder after 10 months, and they did not need to really true wheel. Justin just kinda inspected on truing stand, gave a few nipples a twist to make sure tension was there. Wrench Science built me great wheels. They use spoke tension gauge (as I am sure all professional wheelbuilders do), I am SO glad I did not try to build these myself.

  27. #227
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    I just ordered a set from my LBS today. I'm pretty excited to ride them. They will be laced to a White Industries Eno Eccentric hub.
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  28. #228
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    I got my new i23 rims yesturday and built them up today on dt swiss 240 hubs using brass nipples and comp spokes. Very solid feel to them. These are replacing an old set of 2010 mavic sx wheels. I built myself flows on dt swiss 240's last year and the i23 rims feel noticably stronger. I removed the i23 stickers and weighted them at 453g and 452g for the 2 rims. That seems much lighter than the advertised 475g per rim? I have left over 25mm stans tape, will that be ok to use for the i23's? Wtb recommendeds 28mm tape, but would like to use the stans since I already have it. Will the 25mm tape work?

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuenstock View Post
    I got my new i23 rims yesturday and built them up today on dt swiss 240 hubs using brass nipples and comp spokes. Very solid feel to them. These are replacing an old set of 2010 mavic sx wheels. I built myself flows on dt swiss 240's last year and the i23 rims feel noticably stronger. I removed the i23 stickers and weighted them at 453g and 452g for the 2 rims. That seems much lighter than the advertised 475g per rim? I have left over 25mm stans tape, will that be ok to use for the i23's? Wtb recommendeds 28mm tape, but would like to use the stans since I already have it. Will the 25mm tape work?
    I'm pretty sure I sealed mine with a single layer of Stans 25mm tapes. Seems to work alright.

  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuenstock View Post
    I got my new i23 rims yesturday and built them up today on dt swiss 240 hubs using brass nipples and comp spokes. Very solid feel to them. These are replacing an old set of 2010 mavic sx wheels. I built myself flows on dt swiss 240's last year and the i23 rims feel noticably stronger. I removed the i23 stickers and weighted them at 453g and 452g for the 2 rims. That seems much lighter than the advertised 475g per rim? I have left over 25mm stans tape, will that be ok to use for the i23's? Wtb recommendeds 28mm tape, but would like to use the stans since I already have it. Will the 25mm tape work?
    I'm doing that exact same build, with dt240 oversize in front, and dt240 in back.

    What spoke length did you use for all of them? Are you happy with that length?

  31. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyxaos View Post
    I'm doing that exact same build, with dt240 oversize in front, and dt240 in back.

    What spoke length did you use for all of them? Are you happy with that length?
    I used 259mm for front disk side and 260mm for the rest of the spokes. That was what I calculated using 537 erd and the dt swiss spoke calculator. Length was perfect. After the wheels were tensioned almost all the spoke threads came to the bottom of the nipple driver slot or whith in a thread. My hubs are dt swiss 240 12x142 rear and a 20mm thru axle OS 240 in the front. They were easier to build and true compared to the flows I built last year.
    Last edited by fuenstock; 02-06-2013 at 02:51 PM.

  32. #232
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    Few pictures of the built up wheels with the stickers removed. Stickers came off clean very easy. Weight is without rim tape of valve stems.
    Wtb i23 rims
    dt swiss comp spokes
    dt swiss brass nipples silver
    dt swiss 240s OS 20mm front hub
    dt swiss 240s 12x142 rear hub








  33. #233
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    Wish they made this rim in a 36 model for the rear. I can normally get away with 32/32 but prefer 36 out back when possible.

  34. #234
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    fuenstock, i also used 25 mm tape, cuz the lbs was out of 28 mm. So far no problems after 7 months.
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  35. #235
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    WTB Frequency i23 AM wheelset: alternative to Flow rims

    Found a good deal on the i23. These are am wheels and I only ride xc. I am 220lbs. Would these be overkill for xc and would I be happier with the i19?


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  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoomerBrian View Post
    Found a good deal on the i23. These are am wheels and I only ride xc. I am 220lbs. Would these be overkill for xc and would I be happier with the i19?


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    I've always kind of figured that race gear was too light for Clydes. Trail gear was effectively race gear for Clydes. And that AM gear amounts to Trail gear for Clydes.

    I'd go with the 23's. The wider bead set presents a nicer tread-print to the dirt and ends up being less flexy.

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoomerBrian View Post
    Found a good deal on the i23. These are am wheels and I only ride xc. I am 220lbs. Would these be overkill for xc and would I be happier with the i19?


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    The i19 is pretty narrow, I would only get those if I was planing of running 2.1 or smaller xc tires. The i23 would be better for 2.2 and larger tires. At your weight I would pick the i23 over i19 unless it was a race wheelset that had to be as light as possible.

  38. #238
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    +1 for i23 over i19. You'll hardly notice the weight. I'd even run them with 2.0" if I was racing.

  39. #239
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    Another vote for going i23 over i19 unless they were going to be race specific with a 2.1 or smaller tire on them.

  40. #240
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    Thanks for the input.

    Does this look like a good deal? Also how do you know if you could use 15mm thru axle? I am putting these on a Trek Cobia with the stock Recon shock.

    WTB Frequency I23 29er Tubeless Mountain Bike Wheelset SRAM x9 Hub 6 Bolt Disc | eBay

    WTB Frequency I23 29er Mountain Wheelset SRAM x9 15mm thru Axle Front Hub 6 Bolt | eBay

  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoomerBrian View Post
    Thanks for the input.

    Does this look like a good deal? Also how do you know if you could use 15mm thru axle? I am putting these on a Trek Cobia with the stock Recon shock.

    WTB Frequency I23 29er Tubeless Mountain Bike Wheelset SRAM x9 Hub 6 Bolt Disc | eBay

    WTB Frequency I23 29er Mountain Wheelset SRAM x9 15mm thru Axle Front Hub 6 Bolt | eBay
    The specs of the fork will dictate what type of axle/skewer setup you will need. I'm pretty sure the Recon on the Cobia is standard Quick Release which would make a 15mm thru axle not work. Most hubs are pretty easily converted though. I would bring bike to LBS and they'll help you or ask the people you're considering purchasing from the technical questions.
    Looking at the pictures of the hubs on the two ads on the ebay ads should give you your answer on what type of skewer/axle system you have. I'm guessing you have the the type in the first ad.

  42. #242
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    Laced up some King hubs, dt comp spokes and i23's yesterday. They feel pretty burly. Hoping to get a ride on them today.

    WTB Frequency i23 AM wheelset: alternative to Flow rims-dsc_0882.jpg

  43. #243
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    I hope to get a ride on these soon. I am waiting for a new frame to put them on. They feel pretty solid and aren't as heavy as I thought.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails WTB Frequency i23 AM wheelset: alternative to Flow rims-imag0648.jpg  

    WTB Frequency i23 AM wheelset: alternative to Flow rims-imag0650.jpg  

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  44. #244
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    WTB Frequency i23 AM wheelset: alternative to Flow rims

    Ordered a set today. Can't wait to try them.


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  45. #245
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    Does anyone know maximum rider weight and maximum tire pressure for i19 and i23?

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by sergey_1987 View Post
    Does anyone know maximum rider weight and maximum tire pressure for i19 and i23?
    I can't imagine a rim this burly having a max rider weight, it's going to be more about quality of the person doing the wheel build and perhaps using stronger spokes in lacing them up. Someone else mentioned that they don't make this rim in a 36 hole drilling so if your a superclyde, that isn't an option.

  47. #247
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    Thank you. So, front wheel (on suspension fork) laced on i19, DT revolution spokes and Syncros hub will be ok for non-agressive riding (city and light XC without drops) for a 200lbs person? Also if I set 622*32 tire at 70psi wouldn't I damage the i19 rim?

  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by sergey_1987 View Post
    Thank you. So, front wheel (on suspension fork) laced on i19, DT revolution spokes and Syncros hub will be ok for non-agressive riding (city and light XC without drops) for a 200lbs person? Also if I set 622*32 tire at 70psi wouldn't I damage the i19 rim?
    Why would you want to run that much pressure? I'm 250lbs and even when I'm riding out on the streets I only take it up to about 45-50psi max?

    At 200lbs you can ride on pretty much any mtb rim you want for the riding style you mention, just dont try to ride anything with too low of spoke count.

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpfitness View Post
    Why would you want to run that much pressure? I'm 250lbs and even when I'm riding out on the streets I only take it up to about 45-50psi max?
    I was wondering if the rim is going to explode under 70psi pressure. I pump that because I use narrow semi-slick (Nokian Ravagozzi Cross S 622*30) with 65-90psi recommended inflation perssure. For XC I use Maxxis Aspen 29*2.25 at 30-50psi.

  50. #250
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    Re: WTB Frequency i23 AM wheelset: alternative to Flow rims

    Quote Originally Posted by sergey_1987 View Post
    I was wondering if the rim is going to explode under 70psi pressure. I pump that because I use narrow semi-slick (Nokian Ravagozzi Cross S 622*30) with 65-90psi recommended inflation perssure. For XC I use Maxxis Aspen 29*2.25 at 30-50psi.
    Gotcha. Im pretty confident you will be fine as you have to remember that mtb wheels dont have a braketrack that is getting worn down that can become a weak point

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

  51. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by ianick View Post
    Laced up some King hubs, dt comp spokes and i23's yesterday. They feel pretty burly. Hoping to get a ride on them today.

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    Any chance you can reveal what spoke lengths you used for your I23 and your CK hubs??

    I thinking I will building a new rear wheel up soon.

    It will be my first jump into wheel building, so I'm ordering extra patients with my spokes..............What could go wrong...............
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  52. #252
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    buy the rims and take erd measurements yourself. the rims you receive could be slightly different from the rims he got and that can be enough to throw your build totally out of wack.

  53. #253
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    I'll +1 on that, given weight variations of 26" sized i23 rims found in this thread (450-480 g or so).

  54. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpfitness View Post
    buy the rims and take erd measurements yourself. the rims you receive could be slightly different from the rims he got and that can be enough to throw your build totally out of wack.
    Thanks, I will do that. I guess it's the same old, same old..................your mileage my vary.
    Last edited by ziscwg; 02-14-2013 at 10:13 AM.
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  55. #255
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    Wheels came in today. They are tubeless ready but don't I need to add some Stan's rim tape to cover the spoke holes?

  56. #256
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    WTB Frequency i23 AM wheelset: alternative to Flow rims

    Quote Originally Posted by BoomerBrian View Post
    Wheels came in today. They are tubeless ready but don't I need to add some Stan's rim tape to cover the spoke holes?
    Yep you'll need some yellow tape and sealant.

  57. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoomerBrian View Post
    Wheels came in today. They are tubeless ready but don't I need to add some Stan's rim tape to cover the spoke holes?
    yes, you need tape. WTB has this WTB TCS Rim Tape > Components > Tires and Tubes > Rim Strips | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop you also need the tubeless valves or did they include them?

    Stan's No Tubes Universal Presta Valves > Components > Tires and Tubes > Tube Misc. Parts | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

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    Thanks...I have a roll of stans tape and sealant already. I need to pick up some valves tomorrow.

    One more question. You only need to put the tape around the rim once?

  59. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoomerBrian View Post
    Thanks...I have a roll of stans tape and sealant already. I need to pick up some valves tomorrow.

    One more question. You only need to put the tape around the rim once?
    yes. I don't know what wheels you ended up going with but i know wtb makes tape rolls specific to the width of their rims but as long as the spoke holes are covered I don't see why it would really matter.

    What tires are you going with?

  60. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpfitness View Post
    What tires are you going with?
    Geax TNT Seguaro
    Geax TNT AKA

  61. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoomerBrian View Post
    Geax TNT Seguaro
    Geax TNT AKA
    Nice, I'm a newbie to mtb and I got a deal on Geax Mezcal tnt and they mounted up super easy with a pump. They have very little tread and it's winter here in NY so I just got a set of geax sturdys which also mounted up easy with a pump. The mezcals were a very fast rolling tire. Couldn't find much info on them. They probbly didn't sell very well hence me getting them for less than $30 a tire which is unheard of for a tubeless ready tire. Vittoria makes great road bike tires which is why I decided to go with the GEAX.

  62. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuenstock View Post
    I used 259mm for front disk side and 260mm for the rest of the spokes. That was what I calculated using 537 erd and the dt swiss spoke calculator. Length was perfect. After the wheels were tensioned almost all the spoke threads came to the bottom of the nipple driver slot or whith in a thread. My hubs are dt swiss 240 12x142 rear and a 20mm thru axle OS 240 in the front. They were easier to build and true compared to the flows I built last year.
    Thanks for the reply.

    One more question I can't seem to find the answer to. Is there any special way to lace them since they are "4D" drilled? It appears it is just that you use the left side holes in the rim for left side of hub. But I wasn't sure if it is more specific than that. As in each hole specifically for one of the 4 positions on each side.

  63. #263
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    Yes, it is more specific, in that they are drilled for 3 cross lacing with a typical sized hub (say, 38-62 mm hole circle diameter flanges).

  64. #264
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    Finally got these out on the trails.

    My initial impressions is I like them. There are a couple hundred grams lighter than what I had and the hubs are noticeably better than what I had.

    Couple of things I didn't like was the stickers and the paint scratches easily. I liked part of the stickers but some of it seemed like an advertisement and I didn't care to see all of the features of the wheel on the sticker.

    WTB Frequency i23 AM wheelset: alternative to Flow rims-oklahoma-city-20130224-00060.jpg

  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoomerBrian View Post
    Couple of things I didn't like was the stickers and the paint scratches easily. I liked part of the stickers but some of it seemed like an advertisement and I didn't care to see all of the features of the wheel on the sticker.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Agreed, unfortunately it seems to be how all hoops and tires are now.

  66. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoomerBrian View Post
    Couple of things I didn't like was the stickers and the paint scratches easily. I liked part of the stickers but some of it seemed like an advertisement and I didn't care to see all of the features of the wheel on the sticker.
    Agreed, unfortunately it seems to be how all hoops and tires are now.

  67. #267
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    Did not post it here when I got them - the pair I had weighted in at 448 and 488g, with stickers. That seems a bit on the high side of variations. Heavier goes in the back wheel, so it is good.

    What weights did you get?

    Quote Originally Posted by J. Random Psycho View Post
    I'll +1 on that, given weight variations of 26" sized i23 rims found in this thread (450-480 g or so).

    For 40g difference, thickness of the rims, measured with digital calipers, was within 0.05mm between those two.

  68. #268
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    [QUOTE=Axe;10191731]Did not post it here when I got them - the pair I had weighted in at 448 and 488g, with stickers. That seems a bit on the high side of variations. Heavier goes in the back wheel, so it is good.

    What weights did you get?

    [QUOTE]

    My 26" i23 rims came in at 452g and 453g with the stickers removed.

  69. #269
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    I'm interested in a set of 26" i23 rims, how would standard maxis ardent 2.25 and a 2.5 minion work with these rims if I was to try and set them up tubeless. I had read they work better with tubeless ready tires. Would flow ex be a better option?

  70. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by monkeyninja View Post
    I'm interested in a set of 26" i23 rims, how would standard maxis ardent 2.25 and a 2.5 minion work with these rims if I was to try and set them up tubeless. I had read they work better with tubeless ready tires. Would flow ex be a better option?
    2.25 would be fine on an i23. I think if you want to run big daddy's like the 2.5 Minion you would be better off with a FlowEX.

  71. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    2.25 would be fine on an i23. I think if you want to run big daddy's like the 2.5 Minion you would be better off with a FlowEX.
    Why do you think that that tiny, non-standard bead on EX will be better?

  72. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by Axe View Post
    Why do you think that that tiny, non-standard bead on EX will be better?
    Was actually just considering the width of the rim itself. My FlowEX's give my wider tires (only 2.35) a better profile than my i23's did.
    I'd imagine that 2.5 beast like the Minion would only benefit that much more.

    Also, I've never had an issue with Maxxis tires on Stan's hoops.

  73. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    Was actually just considering the width of the rim itself. My FlowEX's give my wider tires (only 2.35) a better profile than my i23's did.
    I can't get around trusting a bead that is half the size that the tire was designed to use. Obviously, YMMV. Do not know about Maxxis.

  74. #274
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    WTB Frequency i23 AM wheelset: alternative to Flow rims

    Quote Originally Posted by Axe View Post
    I can't get around trusting a bead that is half the size that the tire was designed to use. Obviously, YMMV. Do not know about Maxxis.
    I agree. The tires are design for use with hook bead rims. The Notubes rims have little hook and the inner sidewall height is lower than the height of the tire bead.
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  75. #275
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    So if I go for new rims I need new tires?

  76. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by monkeyninja View Post
    So if I go for new rims I need new tires?
    Your question is unclear. The WTB Frequency rims are designed for tubeless use only with tubeless/UST/tubeless ready tires.

    I do not recommend using any standard tire and/or rim without an inner tube.
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  77. #277
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    I do not recommend using any standard tire and/or rim without an inner tube.[/QUOTE]


    That's the info I was looking for. Thanks

  78. #278
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    WTB Frequency i23 AM wheelset: alternative to Flow rims

    I've been running a standard tire tubeless on mine with no issues.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  79. #279
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    I've heard from WTB that they have made a few continued refinements to the Frequency rims that are presently shipping:
    1. They are now using the WT69 alloy also used in their Stryker rims (no more Series 7000 aluminum alloy), which makes the rims stiffer and about 5% lighter in weight.
    2. They have also changed the inside spoke nipple hole chamfering geometry, so it more closely supports the nipple and leaves more material in the nipple seat, which should further increase durability.
    Thanks WTB!
    Hey everybody, ride my wheels! They ride good, real good.
    I'm a wheel builder. SRLPE Wheel Works. Send me a PM.

  80. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4slomo View Post
    leaves more material in the nipple seat, which should further increase durability.
    Thanks WTB!
    Did you hear about any failures from spokes pulling through?

  81. #281
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    I've only heard of one failure, which appeared to be due to someone grossly overtensioning a spoke, probably due to inexperience. I continue to be greatly impressed by these rims.
    Hey everybody, ride my wheels! They ride good, real good.
    I'm a wheel builder. SRLPE Wheel Works. Send me a PM.

  82. #282
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    4slomo, that's great info.



    Due to directional drilling (excellent feature), it's really easy to overtension spokes on Frequency rims if one has no idea how 1200 N feels with the spokes he's using and no way of measuring tension.

    I keep recommending those rims on local forums with phrases like "I'd build with them a wheelset for myself".

  83. #283
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    WTB Frequency i23 AM wheelset: alternative to Flow rims

    Whaaaa! I'm having early adopter syndrome.

  84. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by Metamorphic View Post
    Whaaaa! I'm having early adopter syndrome.
    Me too. Bought older version on sale, now will be riding thinking they are not light and strong enough.

  85. #285
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    But now you have an excuse to ride the hell out of them )

  86. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Random Psycho View Post
    But now you have an excuse to ride the hell out of them )
    I actually found the stickers I took of the rims, and it says "WT69". So I guess I got newer ones. Still bummed at such a large weight difference, does not sound right.

  87. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by Axe View Post
    I actually found the stickers I took of the rims, and it says "WT69". So I guess I got newer ones. Still bummed at such a large weight difference, does not sound right.
    When did you buy your rims? I bought mine last month so maybe I have newer ones to? I removed the stickers so now I have no way of knowing.

  88. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuenstock View Post
    When did you buy your rims? I bought mine last month so maybe I have newer ones to? I removed the stickers so now I have no way of knowing.
    Treefort, few weeks back, they price matched. WTB website still lists them as 7000 alloy - but the sticker clearly states WT69 - extra icon, not like on picture on web site.

  89. #289
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    I'm having a heck of a time trying to seat my i23 s ti a set of nano tcs tires, sealant, 28 mm rim tape wtb valves, everything WTB. New to tubeless also, any tricks or tips? Using a high pressure hand pump, will an air compressor help guarantee a seating? Oh this is for a29er setup too.

  90. #290
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    Quote Originally Posted by VO2 Lax View Post
    Using a high pressure hand pump, will an air compressor help guarantee a seating?
    A high volume track pump would suit better.. a compressor, much better.

  91. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by VO2 Lax View Post
    I'm having a heck of a time trying to seat my i23 s ti a set of nano tcs tires, sealant, 28 mm rim tape wtb valves, everything WTB. New to tubeless also, any tricks or tips? Using a high pressure hand pump, will an air compressor help guarantee a seating? Oh this is for a29er setup too.
    Have you tried soap and water?

    Air compressor will definitely help.

  92. #292
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    I am using a high volume pump, and I have not tried the soap and water since WTB markets it as a mount and pump tire. I have an air compressor coming tomorrow so I'm give that a shot. Any excuse to by new tools for the garage is fine with me.

  93. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by VO2 Lax View Post
    I'm having a heck of a time trying to seat my i23 s ti a set of nano tcs tires, sealant, 28 mm rim tape wtb valves, everything WTB. New to tubeless also, any tricks or tips? Using a high pressure hand pump, will an air compressor help guarantee a seating? Oh this is for a29er setup too.
    That seems odd. What do you have for the rim strip and valve?

    Be gentle with the compressor. Easy to over inflated and blow it off, though I expect it will not be as sensitive as regular tire bead on Stan's hooks.

  94. #294
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    WTB (aka Stan's) 28mm rim tape, and WTB Valves. Everything WTB and it won't seat with my high volume pump. Even when I remove the presta core. I've followed everything to WTBs specs, still no dice.

    I just want to get enough air pressure with the compressor to inflate and I'll do the rest by hand.

    Thanks for the tip.

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    What a pain in the ass this tubeless process was. Used the air compressor, no go! So WTB's claim of seating it with a floor pump, is just that, a marketing claim. I'm sure it worked for some but not on my 29er wheels. Not bashing WTB, but I should've of know that marketing is marketing.

    To get it to work, I had to put in a tube, seat the tires, take out the tube so that one side is seated and then pumped it up with the air compressor and it finally worked. Not immediately, but after a few tries. Once seated, I deflated, took out the air core, and added Stan's via syringe, and re-pump.

    After the wheel set, unplanned TCS tires, rim tape, valves, misc. tubeless stuff, and air compressor, my tubeless curiosity set me back an close or over $1K. Sheesh...

    Hope it's worth it. I've yet to have a flat with tubes and tire liner, I know it's more weight but I'm not a gram counter and snake bites are very RARE with my low tire pressures.

    At least I got an air compressor?

  96. #296
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    WTB Frequency i23 AM wheelset: alternative to Flow rims

    Must be the tires. My geax tires seated right up.


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  97. #297
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    Quote Originally Posted by VO2 Lax View Post
    At least I got an air compressor?
    And 2 nice wheels that you can still ride with tubes if you abandon the tubeless way.

  98. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by VO2 Lax View Post
    So WTB's claim of seating it with a floor pump, is just that, a marketing claim.
    I can seat Hans Dampfs and Nobby Nic with a compact pump. Just as I could seat them on Shimano's UST rims. Did not try Geax, but I think it will be the same result. I also use CaffeLatex instead on Stan's (now their new formula). For some reason it seems easier to do the initial seal

    Did you install rim strip with enough tension? You need to really pull on it, so it goes over the ramp very tightly.

  99. #299
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    You're right about the wheel set.

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    Quote Originally Posted by VO2 Lax View Post
    I'm having a heck of a time trying to seat my i23 s ti a set of nano tcs tires, sealant, 28 mm rim tape wtb valves, everything WTB. New to tubeless also, any tricks or tips? Using a high pressure hand pump, will an air compressor help guarantee a seating? Oh this is for a29er setup too.
    A high volume pump from top peak (i think they call it mountain or something)
    Also, take the valve core out of the stem, pump it up and let it seat. Wait a minute, then let the air back out (slowly). Replace the core and pump to desire pressure.
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

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