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  1. #301
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    Tubeless Tape Thread

    Not sure of the brand name, but I work in the bio pharm construction industry and I picked up a roll of what we call "clean room" tape. It's basically a vinyl duct tape that will not leave any residue behind. I taped up my first rim with it earlier today, and it sealed up fine. I'll report back if there's any issues.
    (Edit)
    Here's a link to the manufacturers page. This stuff isn't that cheap. It still cheaper than stans. https://m.uline.com/h5/r/www.uline.c...B&gclsrc=aw.ds



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  2. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by dsmxsteve View Post
    This stuff isn't that cheap. It still cheaper than stans. https://m.uline.com/h5/r/www.uline.c...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
    Hmmm...$17 per roll with a minimum 6 roll purchase.
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  3. #303
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    3M 8896 strapping tape works awesome. On the zon for $7.36. 1" by 60 yards.

  4. #304
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    Tubeless Tape Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Hmmm...$17 per roll with a minimum 6 roll purchase.
    That was directly from the distributor, I imagine it can be found in single roll quantities from vendors.


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  5. #305
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    dsmxsteve, how is the stretchiness of this vinyl tape?

  6. #306
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    Clean room tape...what is it used for?
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  7. #307
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schulze View Post
    dsmxsteve, how is the stretchiness of this vinyl tape?
    It's pretty stretchy. Matter of fact, I had to be careful not to over stretch it when I installed it on my rim. So I did a double wrap and put 10 miles and a few smaller jumps by a 230 lb. man on the bike today and no blow outs yet. This is on a i23 Rim


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  8. #308
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    Quote Originally Posted by J: View Post
    Clean room tape...what is it used for?
    To tape a clean room.....



    ......Bom-Ba-Dom

  9. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by J: View Post
    Clean room tape...what is it used for?
    For a variety things on the bio pharm and semiconductor industry. In the shop I work at we use it as a residue free adhesive, labeling,as well as protection against contamination.


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  10. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by dsmxsteve View Post
    For a variety things on the bio pharm and semiconductor industry. In the shop I work at we use it as a residue free adhesive, labeling,as well as protection against contamination.


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    Interesting find...does it protect against gas / liquid contamination?
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  11. #311
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rngspnr View Post
    3M 8896 strapping tape works awesome. On the zon for $7.36. 1" by 60 yards.
    That's what I use. It's perfect.

    Pumped MTB tires up to 50psi+ to "stretch" and the tape shows no signs of deformation at the spoke holes. No residue, good adhesion to the rim, and seems air tight and sealant proof.

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  12. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    That's what I use. It's perfect.

    Pumped MTB tires up to 50psi+ to "stretch" and the tape shows no signs of deformation at the spoke holes. No residue, good adhesion to the rim, and seems air tight and sealant proof.

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
    Use it too, not specifically for tubeless, but as a strip sized to lower channel / over the spoke holes...w/ the full width, sometimes if the channel is deep it doesn't quite stretch, when first aired up it kind of moves out of place in spots
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  13. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by J: View Post
    Interesting find...does it protect against gas / liquid contamination?
    Now that, I'm not sure of and that was my only concern when being used as tubeless tape. I think I had mentioned it once before but I have a double wrap on a rear i23 with almost 3 ounces of stans in it. So far it's been 3 days of good hard riding (for a heavy rookie) I've put on them and the haven't leaked a bit. I just checked them again this morning with soapy water, as I'm going on a longer ride and don't want to be stranded and not a single bubble has immersed. I will keep an update going if people want to know the results


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  14. #314
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    Quote Originally Posted by J: View Post
    Use it too, not specifically for tubeless, but as a strip sized to lower channel / over the spoke holes...w/ the full width, sometimes if the channel is deep it doesn't quite stretch, when first aired up it kind of moves out of place in spots
    I use a heat gun when mounting it and it helps me get it as flat as possible in the lower channel and also seems to prevent it from moving after airing it up. I also got the wider roll and it is kind of a pain to get it flat in the channel since it wants to grip the top of the channel first.

    I just use one layer, but haven't been using this tape for long term. I just know with Stans I end up with leaks no matter how good my job looks and this 3M tape results in zero leaks so far.

  15. #315
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steezus View Post
    I use a heat gun when mounting it and it helps me get it as flat as possible in the lower channel and also seems to prevent it from moving after airing it up. I also got the wider roll and it is kind of a pain to get it flat in the channel since it wants to grip the top of the channel first.

    I just use one layer, but haven't been using this tape for long term. I just know with Stans I end up with leaks no matter how good my job looks and this 3M tape results in zero leaks so far.
    It feels like it's 1.5-2x as thick as Stans tape, and maybe slightly more adhesive.

    I have the 1" wide roll. Fills up the interior of my Nox Teocalli just about perfectly. Even works with older, narrower rims, just comes up the sides a bit.

    The heat gun thing is a great idea. When I put it on the rim, I pull it pretty tight so that it's being forced down into the channel first and foremost. Then I press it down manually on the raised portions nearer the bead.
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  16. #316
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    It feels like it's 1.5-2x as thick as Stans tape, and maybe slightly more adhesive.

    I have the 1" wide roll. Fills up the interior of my Nox Teocalli just about perfectly. Even works with older, narrower rims, just comes up the sides a bit.

    The heat gun thing is a great idea. When I put it on the rim, I pull it pretty tight so that it's being forced down into the channel first and foremost. Then I press it down manually on the raised portions nearer the bead.
    I have the one inch tape as well and the new 26mm internal width rims I installed it on were a ***** because of how deeply dished the channel was. I tried to stretch it and the glue would just bond really hard to the edges of the dish as I tried to set it. I wasted 2 rims worth of tape before I had to finesse it into the channel and heat up each section as I press and set it permanently. After 4 rims my thumbnails felt like it was separating from my fingers, but damn that tape grips so well. I like that it is translucent so you can see the air bubbles to remove all of them when installing.

  17. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steezus View Post
    I have the one inch tape as well and the new 26mm internal width rims I installed it on were a ***** because of how deeply dished the channel was. I tried to stretch it and the glue would just bond really hard to the edges of the dish as I tried to set it. I wasted 2 rims worth of tape before I had to finesse it into the channel and heat up each section as I press and set it permanently. After 4 rims my thumbnails felt like it was separating from my fingers, but damn that tape grips so well. I like that it is translucent so you can see the air bubbles to remove all of them when installing.
    It's worth noting that I rebuilt a rear wheel this summer that I'd used 8896 on, and there is NO residue when you pull it off. Unlike Gorilla tape, which will provide the user with an hour or more of cursing when you try to remove it.

    And yes, the ability to see the air pockets and press them out is nice. Guarantees that you get maximum adhesion to the rim, so the tape will have less chance of shifting once installed.

    One thing that might help is doing a "basic" installation, then throwing a tire AND tube on, and inflating to a pretty high pressure. This should pack the tape down and not require nearly as much effort.
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  18. #318
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    Did you order the 8896 on line or was it available locally?

  19. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl H. View Post
    Did you order the 8896 on line or was it available locally?
    I live in the sticks (rural western VA) so I do most of my shopping on Amazon. The closest store that carries anything like it is 20min+ away.

    https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Film-S...87YMVA7JP2FE9Z
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  20. #320
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    Inspired by this test's results on glass, I went with Polyken 231, 1" wide and taped bead-to-bead on rims of the same width (i.e. tape covers the bead seat). Only one layer, with overlap at the valve. So far, so good.

    It's very sticky on smooth surfaces once you've pressed and rubbed it down firmly, which certainly does help the thin and stiff glue (compared to Gorilla Tape).

  21. #321
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    Anybody try this out yet? Stucco Tape, a polyethylene film with rubber adhesive, supposed to come up clean. I need to tape up Mulefut 50's and am thinking of trying this out.

    https://www.shurtape.com/cloth-duct-.../stucco/pe-444
    Tubeless Tape Thread-stucco-2.jpg

  22. #322
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    Anybody ever given this stuff a look? I have no idea how heavy it is, but it looks like good stuff for this application.

    MOCAP's Silicone X‑Treme Tape™ is made from a special silicone material which sticks (bonds) only to itself. X-Treme Tape™ has NO ADHESIVE and leaves no residue when removed. MOCAP silicone tape stretches up to 300% and conforms to irregular shapes.


    Creates an Air-Tight, Water-Tight Seal in seconds!
    Never gets gooey or sticky like old-fashioned electrical tape or duct tape - No messy cleanup!
    Has an incredibly long shelf life!
    Is extremely versatile!
    Resists Acids, Fuels, Oils, Solvents, Salt Water, UV Rays
    The only drawback I see to it is its price. For a single 2"x36' roll it's about $50 shipped.

  23. #323
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    if you've used silicone tapes before, they're quite grippy
    if the tire is not loose, it will tear/peel the tape during installation/removal
    tubeless tape needs to be slippery on the outside

  24. #324
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    Quote Originally Posted by R-M-R View Post
    Inspired by this test's results on glass, I went with Polyken 231, 1" wide and taped bead-to-bead on rims of the same width (i.e. tape covers the bead seat). Only one layer, with overlap at the valve. So far, so good.

    It's very sticky on smooth surfaces once you've pressed and rubbed it down firmly, which certainly does help the thin and stiff glue (compared to Gorilla Tape).
    how pliable is it? will it stick and remain stuck to an actual bead lock like this one (or anything with acute angles in general) ?
    http://www.benscycle.com/images/prod...e/25102_2_.jpg

  25. #325
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    For you guys using the strapping tape, is it still holding well? I need to tape up a set of Duroc 50's, and the 1.88in comes in at 47mm, which is perfect for the 46mm inner of the rim. LBS isn't going to have tubeless tape anywhere near that width. And I'm guessing you're using the clear version, and not the reinforced?

  26. #326
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    I ended up purchasing the wider version of the same tape I previously purchased (had to overlap it and I didn't like that (never leaked though). The 1" version fit the inner width of my 28mm rims perfect and sealed incredibly well. It also was great how easy the old tape peeled off with no residue. and for the price/prime shipping its a win-win

    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CKGIBYE

    Tubeless Tape Thread-capture.jpg
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  27. #327
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    I just picked up two of these https://www.specialized.com/us/en/co...m-strip/105975.

    Beats the hell out of taping the rim. I used the 27.5x31MM on Stans MK3 Flows and it was a perfect fit. $3 per wheel at my LBS.

  28. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    how pliable is it? will it stick and remain stuck to an actual bead lock like this one (or anything with acute angles in general) ?
    http://www.benscycle.com/images/prod...e/25102_2_.jpg
    The high fiber content means it feels somewhere between typical duct tape and a fiber tape, such as hockey tape. Thickness is similar to duct tape, but less elongation. Much thinner than Gorilla Tape. I see no reason why it should have problems with a bead lock.

    Do you need to tape over the bead lock? Whenever possible, I tape only the spoke holes, though I could see a need for full-width taping on a pinned or sleeved rim.

  29. #329
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    yep, pinned rim

  30. #330
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    Hey there,

    After reading through all 7 pages, it seems that gorilla tape has updated their black tape and it does not work as well for tubless. Is that correct? Does this also make the clear gorilla tape not work for tubless either?

    Amazon does have the Kapton tape. HERE is a link.

    Thanks,

    Skip

  31. #331
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    Anyone try e13's tape, or know exactly what it is? Just read this on their site:

    Most tubeless tape has as least one weakness. It doesn't stick well, leaves a residue when removed, is hard to install, is too thick or too thin.

    Our tape balances the needs of tubeless users with a purpose designed tape, not just our favorite tape from the hardware store.

    What's in the box: Tubeless tape

    e*thirteen tubeless tape:

    Has the right amount of adhesive
    Will not leave a residue when removed
    Stretches for easy install and snug valve fit
    Won't tear easily
    Comes in perfect widths for e*thirteen rims
    8m roll tapes 2 wheels
    40m roll tapes 10 wheels

    However, it aint cheap
    '18 banshee rune

  32. #332
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    OP, whats your verdict between kapton and maxi 248?
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  33. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodzilla View Post
    Anybody try this out yet? Stucco Tape, a polyethylene film with rubber adhesive, supposed to come up clean. I need to tape up Mulefut 50's and am thinking of trying this out.

    https://www.shurtape.com/cloth-duct-.../stucco/pe-444
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	stucco 2.jpg 
Views:	279 
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ID:	1117445
    I tried this, the adhesion is very nice and it does come up clean. However the tape itself is very soft (easy to damage with tire irons, etc) and not very strong. Maybe two layers would work okay, but I wasn't as happy with it as I thought I would be.

  34. #334
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShadowGLI View Post
    I ended up purchasing the wider version of the same tape I previously purchased (had to overlap it and I didn't like that (never leaked though). The 1" version fit the inner width of my 28mm rims perfect and sealed incredibly well. It also was great how easy the old tape peeled off with no residue. and for the price/prime shipping its a win-win
    This might be a winner, given that it's compliant and doesn't leave residue. Will just need a long term report! (hint)!
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  35. #335
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    OP, since you are double layering the kapton, what are your thoughts on just using the 2 mil version?
    '18 banshee rune

  36. #336
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    anyone tried these?
    https://www.kaptontape.com/blue_masking_tapes.php

    https://www.kaptontape.com/Green_Masking_Tapes.php

    They look like the powdercoating tapes mentioned in this thread.
    '18 banshee rune

  37. #337
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    I've found that T-Rex tape is very similar to Gorilla tape but does not leave residue when removed. It's not 100% airtight though so I usually topped up my pressure before each ride. One wrap is 20 grams.

    Much easier to use than the tesa tape which in a PINA to get to conform to the center channel of the tim.

  38. #338
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    FWIW: I use two layers of 1 mil Kapton tape on my road bike, tubed and tubeless running ~100psi. I use one layer on mtbs. On a set of wider carbon mtb rims the tape only covers the holes, not the entire width of the rim bed. I check that there are no burrs or excessively sharp edges on the spoke holes.
    Do the math.

  39. #339
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    Does the Kapton tape have any stretch?

    What's the difference between the green and the red linked above?
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  40. #340
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    What's the secret for getting the kapton tape down without any wrinkles? Or are some wrinkles ok?
    '18 banshee rune

  41. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loch View Post
    I tried this, the adhesion is very nice and it does come up clean. However the tape itself is very soft (easy to damage with tire irons, etc) and not very strong. Maybe two layers would work okay, but I wasn't as happy with it as I thought I would be.
    Thanks for the heads up Loch! I bought this for wide rims to only find out later the rims was already taped. Still a great tape for around the house though!

  42. #342
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    My thoughts are NO Wrinkles. Keep it stretched tight when applying. This applies to any tape being applied.
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  43. #343
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    It think it was posted here to NOT stretch kapton tape very tight. I'm having a hell of a time getting it into the deep center channel (wtb i25) without any wrinkles. Any tips from anyone who've used it?
    '18 banshee rune

  44. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    It think it was posted here to NOT stretch kapton tape very tight. I'm having a hell of a time getting it into the deep center channel (wtb i25) without any wrinkles. Any tips from anyone who've used it?
    I'm using kapton tape on WTB i23 rims. There will be some minor wrinkles and maybe even a few bubbles here & there if you're unlucky. I found that if I press everything down and smooth it out as best as I can with my fingers then everything works out well. It's not always the prettiest but it seals well and so far I haven't had any issues in 3 years or so of use. On my WTB rims, it holds air and stays stuck down better than Stan's or Gorrila tape. And yeah, don't yank it too tight or it'll rip when you poke the valve hole.

  45. #345
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    Tyvek tape on 65mm fat rims.

    I use it on my 90mm rims too, but I use two passes.

    Doesn't get any lighter, and it seals great.

    Tubeless Tape Thread-16832406_10101056009286118_7269716387457239928_n.jpgTubeless Tape Thread-16832389_10101056016346968_816478383181178031_n.jpg
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  46. #346
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    Quote Originally Posted by aerius View Post
    I'm using kapton tape on WTB i23 rims. There will be some minor wrinkles and maybe even a few bubbles here & there if you're unlucky. I found that if I press everything down and smooth it out as best as I can with my fingers then everything works out well. It's not always the prettiest but it seals well and so far I haven't had any issues in 3 years or so of use. On my WTB rims, it holds air and stays stuck down better than Stan's or Gorrila tape. And yeah, don't yank it too tight or it'll rip when you poke the valve hole.

    Good to know. what im really having trouble with is not getting bubbles trapped between the 2 layers of tape, as it sticks better to itself than to the rim.Right now tehres a tube in it at 60 psi to really push it down flat.
    btw i have better luck when I cut an x for the valve hole instead of poking a hole, with the lines on the x at 45 degree angles to the rim. Never had the (wtb) tape tear with that method.
    '18 banshee rune

  47. #347
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    i got a roll of tyvek tape to compare to the kapton and OMG its so easy to stick down good in the rim channel.
    is 1 layer good for mtb (sub 28 psi) with the tyvek or am i supposed to do 2 layers?
    '18 banshee rune

  48. #348
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    Well this week I experimented with kapton and tyvek. Tyvek for the win! I had trouble sticking the kapton down into the channel (wtb i25) without wrinkles or bubbles. The tyvek installs much easier for me. It's stickier and more stretchy. Sealed up fine with one layer and didn't lose psi overbite. Ride around the street and all is well, trail test soon.
    Ps. White lightning clean streak cleaned the rim much better than alcohol. That may have been the problem sticking down the kapton.
    '18 banshee rune

  49. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    Well this week I experimented with kapton and tyvek. Tyvek for the win! I had trouble sticking the kapton down into the channel (wtb i25) without wrinkles or bubbles. The tyvek installs much easier for me. It's stickier and more stretchy. Sealed up fine with one layer and didn't lose psi overbite. Ride around the street and all is well, trail test soon.
    Ps. White lightning clean streak cleaned the rim much better than alcohol. That may have been the problem sticking down the kapton.
    Because the wheel in the pic above is my race setup/backup, I haven't added any sealant to it. It's held air for 4 days now with just the one pass of Tyvek. I'll add sealant when I use it on the trails, but impressive that it holds air just fine with nothing else.
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  50. #350
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    Does anybody know what Whisky Parts Co uses for their tape, or what it is most similar to?

  51. #351
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    for arc 40 rims will the stans 39mm rim tape work fine? can i use a narrower tape or does the size have to stay close to the width of the rim?

  52. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slow poke View Post
    for arc 40 rims will the stans 39mm rim tape work fine? can i use a narrower tape or does the size have to stay close to the width of the rim?
    If you use a good tape and get good adhesion (on a clean rim), you need only cover the spoke holes, so a very narrow tape can be sufficient. Wider tape can offer more protection against sealant seeping under the tape, but it can also get pulled aside if the tire drags the tape while the bead begins to lock into place.

    I prefer to use narrow tape and switch to wider tape only in the rare case that I need more protection against sealant seepage under the tape or if I need to help a poorly shaped bead seal against the rim's bead lip.

  53. #353
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    thanks- that 39mm tape is expensive. The rims are new so hopefully there shouldn't be any problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by R-M-R View Post
    If you use a good tape and get good adhesion (on a clean rim), you need only cover the spoke holes, so a very narrow tape can be sufficient. Wider tape can offer more protection against sealant seeping under the tape, but it can also get pulled aside if the tire drags the tape while the bead begins to lock into place.

    I prefer to use narrow tape and switch to wider tape only in the rare case that I need more protection against sealant seepage under the tape or if I need to help a poorly shaped bead seal against the rim's bead lip.

  54. #354
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slow poke View Post
    thanks- that 39mm tape is expensive. The rims are new so hopefully there shouldn't be any problem.
    Give them a quick wipe wiith isopropanol or acetone, just to be sure!

  55. #355
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    I tried the Kapton tape. Question ( and this really applies to all tapes ). Do you try to push the tape down into the spokebed? The first time I did it, I put a little tension on it and it really got stuck to the sides, leaving the middle totally suspended. This seemed like an easy way to puncture the tape later ... on a second try, I tried to push down the tape into the middle channel/spoke bed. That seems better. Is that the conventional wisdom? My only issue was it didn't go down as smooth/clean, with a few wrinkles here and there. Hoping they don't cause problems...

  56. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by slcpunk View Post
    I tried the Kapton tape. Question ( and this really applies to all tapes ). Do you try to push the tape down into the spokebed? The first time I did it, I put a little tension on it and it really got stuck to the sides, leaving the middle totally suspended. This seemed like an easy way to puncture the tape later ... on a second try, I tried to push down the tape into the middle channel/spoke bed. That seems better. Is that the conventional wisdom? My only issue was it didn't go down as smooth/clean, with a few wrinkles here and there. Hoping they don't cause problems...
    This is a FWIW answer...Kapton is very strong, thin, and impervious to just about anything. Problem is it has very little compliance. I think if you could get the width right, where you don't need high compliance, then you'd be good to go. However, you DON'T want wrinkles in any tape because you can expose the adhesive to the sealant, and that will eventually give you a failure.
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  57. #357
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    This is a FWIW answer...Kapton is very strong, thin, and impervious to just about anything. Problem is it has very little compliance. I think if you could get the width right, where you don't need high compliance, then you'd be good to go. However, you DON'T want wrinkles in any tape because you can expose the adhesive to the sealant, and that will eventually give you a failure.
    Agreed. The only failure I've seen over the spoke holes was on a road rim (100 - 120 psi) with electrical tape and the rim had huge burrs around the spoke bed. Anything less than this perfect storm of tape destruction should be fine.

    Wrinkles, however, are definitely not fine. If sealant can seep under and dissolve, lift, or otherwise affect the glue, you'll be lucky if it holds air for long.

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    I use common garden brown carton tape and turps to remove adhesive residues. I've never met one it wouldn't remove from contact adhesive to stickers except duct tape, it does leave it's own residue which is easily cleaned with prepsol, alchahol, meths etc.

  59. #359
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    Quote Originally Posted by R-M-R View Post
    Agreed. The only failure I've seen over the spoke holes was on a road rim (100 - 120 psi) with electrical tape and the rim had huge burrs around the spoke bed. Anything less than this perfect storm of tape destruction should be fine.

    Wrinkles, however, are definitely not fine. If sealant can seep under and dissolve, lift, or otherwise affect the glue, you'll be lucky if it holds air for long.
    copy - thanks for both answers R-M-R and simplemind.

    I just didn't like the "suspended" look of the tape where it was only adhered to the high points and not touching the rim bed at the spokes at all. Maybe a more careful application would yield no wrinkles.

  60. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by R-M-R View Post
    Agreed. The only failure I've seen over the spoke holes was on a road rim (100 - 120 psi) with electrical tape and the rim had huge burrs around the spoke bed.
    I have personally blown out a spoke hole twice with single layer 8896 tape, which is pretty strong stuff. This was on a pair of easton XR wheels a few years back. Was riding maybe 26 psi rear at the time.

  61. #361
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    Just had to change the blue 3M tape on my road bike wheels. Damn stuff left 100% of the adhesive on the rims when I pulled it off. Used up an entire can of goof-off while cleaning.

  62. #362
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    I just did two carbon wheels (i29, i39) in 20mm Kapton tape. Brilliant stuff. Weighs nothing, sticks well, easy to apply, and very strong. It doesn't cover the entire center channel, but I don't think it needs to. I also bought Maxi 248 3.3mil 1". Didn't like that quite as much. The extra thickness and width just made it harder to place. Still a fine tape, though.

    ENVE sent me a roll of their tubeless tape. Looks like 1" Gorilla tape. The roll is 105g, so around 50g per wheel. It's terrifically durable. I've mounted and unmounted tires twenty times on one of my rims. The tape still looks new. Unaffected by sealant. Wouldn't want to try taking it off, though.

  63. #363
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    Report on Kapton tape.

    I want to convert my father's wheelset to tubeless, and also find an option to my Flows Mk3 with Stans tape in case I damage the tape.

    So I ordered 100m of 30mm wide Kapton tape.

    I also have a set of carbon rims with no internal nipple holes, so I decided to test on them the tape, because if something go wrong nothing bad will happen.
    And I'm glad I did.

    The photos were taken more or less 3 months after I install the tape on my carbon rims.

    Tubeless Tape Thread-img_9091.jpgTubeless Tape Thread-image001.jpgTubeless Tape Thread-image002.jpgTubeless Tape Thread-image005.jpg

    I always tape wall to wall, and as you can see in the last photo, the only part of the tape that did not melted was what was under the tire bed, everything else was either gelatinous or rubber like.

    I use homebrew sealant, BAMFS v3, and this is the first time I see something like this happen.
    Last edited by Aglo; 04-22-2017 at 04:24 PM.

  64. #364
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    Also trying to decide on the "optimal" width for rim tape on new i30 carbon rims. I can choose between 25, 27 and 29mm rim tape at the BHS. Is bead to bead really the best way to go on coverage?

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  65. #365
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    aglo not sure what happened there.. Might be the ammonia in your homebrew? Who knows.. I do homebrew and never had that happen. Strange.

  66. #366
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    Bontrager TLR rim tape (blue) works fine and is very easy to use, I use it on Line Pro 40.
    Plastic Bontrager TLR rim strips are just great, super easy to install and reliable, but are rim specific. I use them with Mustang rims. The only issue - soapy water is a must, and it usually takes me 3-4 pump air blows in a row to have a tire fully set. After I verify that it is set, I deflate it, add sealant, and inflate again. Never add sealant until you verify that the tire is fully set!

  67. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by combfilter View Post
    aglo not sure what happened there.. Might be the ammonia in your homebrew? Who knows.. I do homebrew and never had that happen. Strange.
    My best guess is that the tape is counterfeit, otherwise other people with homebrew would have the same problem. Unless no one else is using the tape and ammonia based homebrew.

  68. #368
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    How do you guys know that all ingredients of your recipes, for example ammonia, is chemically compatible with your tire compounds? And how do you know it will not evaporate quickly?

  69. #369
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  70. #370
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Yep, sorry, posted in a wrong thread.

  71. #371
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    Kapton tape is almost identical to Spank/Fratelli tape....but I might be mistaken...

  72. #372
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    Kapton tape I use with Stan's (ammonia) has held up for years. The polyimide film and silicone adhesive is pretty impervious.
    Do the math.

  73. #373
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    I recently got back into mountain biking and had my first experience with a leaky tubeless setup. I did what I thought was the easiest: picked up some yellow Stan's tape and proceeded to botch the whole procedure. I mean, it's better than it was (I can at least ride) but the 30mm wide tape was hard to work with on a deep asymmetrical rim. I found this thread through Google while researching. But onto the real point of this post... be aware that the Maxi and Kapton tapes have a shelf life! 3M says 36 months at 70 degrees and 50% humidity. This is before use so I have no idea what that means once you install them - although it sounds like Louisiana or Florida may not be the best environment. It's cheap enough that I don't mind throwing it in the trash when it gets old but it's something to note for people thinking that buying a big roll means they never need to buy another. Also, I don't imagine that anything designed for powder coating was made for long term durability as the install/remove turnaround time is usually very quick. That stuff really only needs to do its job for a few days at the most. At least Tyvek is designed for semi-permanent use in hot, wet conditions. These are just observations from reading manufacturer literature! Real world experience like this thread is invaluable for beginners like me.

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  74. #374
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    I've come to the conclusion that tyvek tape is the best for this application. Cheap, easy to apply, strong, waterproof, and as far as I can tell quite permanent. Heck it's designed to be weatherproofing tape

  75. #375
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    I've just done my EX511 rim in "kapton" tape and really struggled. It's full of wrinkles and I think a few air bubbles. The first issue was the lack of stickiness. It didn't stick (at all) to the aluminium. I had to get round a quarter of the wheel before I could get some purchase to hold it and I ended up doing 2 full laps because it does stick to itself very well.

    I'm not sure how relevant this is but my "kapton" tape was actually labelled "koptan" and I bought it from this ebay auction: 0.5/10/20/30/40/50mm 100ft Heat Resistant High Temperature Polyimide Tape Hot

    The stans I had previously went on much more easily, stuck much better (although the rest of the roll lost it's stickiness pretty quick!), and never caused any issues. This was a lot cheaper though and given that it comes in 30mm to match the rim I thought it was worth a shot. I guess we'll see if it seals up and what it looks like in another month or so.

  76. #376
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    Any updates here?

    Anybody know if Home Depot carries the Tyvek tape in narrower widths?
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  77. #377
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    Did my rims with the green "powder coating masking tape" mentioned earlier:

    https://www.amazon.com/72-Yds-Coatin...bxgy_328_img_2

    Worked great, went on easier than Stan's tape, seems to be holding up well (I gave 'em two full wraps). 1" fit fine in a 27mm ID rim.

    Had a little trouble taking off the clear Gorilla tape that was on there before, but isopropyl alcohol and a hair dryer did the trick.

  78. #378
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    Trimming Tubeless Tape

    For trimming tubeless rim tape to width I have had great results using a balsa stripper. I set the width so I cut from the side that will be wasted so I can Perl it off as I cut deeper. Nice even edge and reasonably safe. Costs $8-12 if memory serves. Replacement blades are xacto, cheap and readily available.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tubeless Tape Thread-imag2132_1.jpg  

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  79. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by sciencemike View Post
    Did my rims with the green "powder coating masking tape" mentioned earlier:

    https://www.amazon.com/72-Yds-Coatin...bxgy_328_img_2

    Worked great, went on easier than Stan's tape, seems to be holding up well (I gave 'em two full wraps). 1" fit fine in a 27mm ID rim.
    The material element of this tape feels a lot like Stan's/Tesa to me other than being transparent green. It does not stretch much and is a little bit thicker than the 3M/Scotch 889x tapes. I'll try this when I retape my rims. I ordered some Kapton and the thinness of the tape and the stretch make me wonder what pressures they can handle...

  80. #380
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    Quote Originally Posted by ceugene View Post
    ...I ordered some Kapton and the thinness of the tape and the stretch make me wonder what pressures they can handle...
    I run road tubeless at 100psi with two layers. One layer on mtb rims. The tape is 0.001" thick with 0.002" of adhesive. The stuff has held up over two years so far on carbon and aluminum rims. I do check there are no burs on the holes in the rim bed, and with any tape application, ensure the rim bed is scrupulously clean so the tape will adhere well and keep sealed.

    I've applied blue strapping tape, Stan's, Gorilla and other tapes and have removed them after use. They all work, but Kapton remains my personal preference.
    Do the math.

  81. #381
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    Quote Originally Posted by sciencemike View Post
    Did my rims with the green "powder coating masking tape" mentioned earlier:

    https://www.amazon.com/72-Yds-Coatin...bxgy_328_img_2

    Worked great, went on easier than Stan's tape, seems to be holding up well (I gave 'em two full wraps). 1" fit fine in a 27mm ID rim.
    Wrapped my front rim with the green powder coating masking tape. It conforms better to the center channel of the rim than Stan's. On my roll the adhesive is not as strong and doesn't stick to carbon that well, but that isn't an issue when wrapped twice tightly. I had only two small bubbles near the end of my wrapping job and managed to squeeze them out completely. This was by far the cleanest taping job I've ever done.

    Highly recommended based on initial impressions. Will update if something goes wrong.

  82. #382
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    I had a lot of trouble centering with 1" tape Tape Master Green PC Masking Tape in my i25 rims. Luckily it's cheap and plentiful so I'll get lots of practice with it.

    I either with they made a 1.25" width to more easily go hook-to-hook or perhaps I should go with .75" and just cover the center channel.
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  83. #383
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    I'm going with the schwalbe rim tape priced at $45 CAD a 10m roll...

    no, I'm kidding, this is just a rip off... and I boycott schwalbe from now on...
    seriously if they feel they can price a tape at $45 they might as well screw their customer all across the board...

    Will try to find Tyvek tape... but in canada everything is hard to get... it's like third world when time to buy stuffs....

  84. #384
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    Screw taping. I had a slow leak after I taped my rim with gorilla clear. I would have preferred strapping tape but in canada it's hard to get. Gorilla clear was a disaster. It started peeling after a few days. When I took it off most of the glue stayed on the rim.

    If you need to remove old tape and glue I recommend mineral spirits and Scotch-Brite No-Scratch Scour Pad. Still took almost an hour but it completely cleaned that crap off.

    After dealing with the mess left by the tape I decided to try the "ghetto tube". I got a skinny 20" schwalbe. I did not even split it. It sat right in the bead. I pinched the back of the valve and cut a small hole. No compressor need to inflate it. No trimming need on the outside as opposed to the split tube. Impossible to burp by hand.

    So, what am I missing? Why bother with tape? Only reason I can see is weight. Tube is 90 grams. I guess I could reduce it by about 40 if I split it and cut it.

  85. #385
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    Quote Originally Posted by daught View Post
    So, what am I missing? Why bother with tape?
    I've never seen it as a bother, I bought a $10 roll of Stans tape 2 years ago and it's been flawless on my wheels so far. Took less than 5 minutes to install and I still have enough left over for another wheelset.
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  86. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    I've never seen it as a bother, I bought a $10 roll of Stans tape 2 years ago and it's been flawless on my wheels so far. Took less than 5 minutes to install and I still have enough left over for another wheelset.
    Dunno maybe it varies from rim to rim. Profile, paint, resonance. Tape does not like having the tire removed. I'm glad I did the tube method, because I found the conti race sports have a leaky sidewall and apparently they have to be cleaned for sealant to work. I guess my first tape job was good, but it got screwed up when I took the tire off to check why it leaks. Now I would have had to do it all over again to clean the tire.

  87. #387
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    I just swapped out my rear with new rubber yesterday . I had used the Green Maxi 248 1" tape this spring with Stan's. Most of the adhesive on the tape had disintegrated due to the Stan's. Guess I was lucky to have had a flat since the tape was in such crappy condition there's no way I'd try and mount another Tubeless tire with the older green tape.
    Back to Grorilla Tape (heavy but I've had Never given me any problems except after cleanup ).

  88. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by daught View Post
    Screw taping.

    So, what am I missing? Why bother with tape? Only reason I can see is weight. Tube is 90 grams. I guess I could reduce it by about 40 if I split it and cut it.
    Just google "ghetto tubeless dangerous" or any combo of that.
    Ghetto tubeless failure anyone, while in use?

    I am not saying this will happen to you but burping with ghetto tubeless can lead to bad things.

  89. #389
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    Tape burps way easier than 20" tube.

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    7 month review and comparison. One wheel with kapton, the other with tyvek. The tyvek tape is still stuck down well, tire removals dont pull it off. No leaks or any problems.
    the kapton developed a slow leak, looks like it lifted up/got sealant underneath in a few spots. Pulled it off and retaped with tyvek. Everyone, tyvek is the way to go.
    '18 banshee rune

  91. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    7 month review and comparison. One wheel with kapton, the other with tyvek. The tyvek tape is still stuck down well, tire removals dont pull it off. No leaks or any problems.
    the kapton developed a slow leak, looks like it lifted up/got sealant underneath in a few spots. Pulled it off and retaped with tyvek. Everyone, tyvek is the way to go.
    I have a roll of Tyvek but have only tinkered a bit by taping an old rim. Seemed to go on well, very smooth.

    What sealant did you use, dwyooaaj?

    Bob

  92. #392
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    Anyone find tyvek for sale in Canada? Here tuck tape(red tape) is usually used for sheathing.

  93. #393
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    Not a one size fits all approach...

    Quote Originally Posted by daught View Post
    Dunno maybe it varies from rim to rim. Profile, paint, resonance. Tape does not like having the tire removed. I'm glad I did the tube method, because I found the conti race sports have a leaky sidewall and apparently they have to be cleaned for sealant to work. I guess my first tape job was good, but it got screwed up when I took the tire off to check why it leaks. Now I would have had to do it all over again to clean the tire.


    Yep. Approach does vary from rim to rim, and even depends on the tirs bead. A few variables include...

    Aluminum or carbon. Channel width and depth - a narrow, deep channel can get away with a narrow strip of tape deep in the channel. A wide shallow channel and you're better to tape full width of rim or tape will peel when removing tires. Stans rims are smooth, and my DT ex471s are rough and different tapes adhere to each one differently. Some tapes won't fill a deep channel as they lack flexibility. Etc...

    Tires. Some have very tight beads, like Schwalbes, and they are more likely to peel tape up in removal. I often tape rims using those tires differently than say a rim that will be getting a slightly looser bead like a Maxxis. As we all know, some tires set up better than others. Maxxis and Specialized are a snap. Kenda use to be good but have not used them in years. Schwalbes are a pain and are very hard to remove.


    Clean rims first with acetone.

    Make sure inside of rim is dry and not sloshing with old sealant or other juices.

    After using quite a few flavors of tape I've found black Gorilla to still be the most versatile and it works well on all rims, though maybe not the best on every rim. Stans tape does work great on Stans rims but not so great on other rims.

    Removing Gorilla tape leaves little residue if the rim is warm. The bits that remain are very easily removed with a generous application of elbow grease - though that is getting harder to find given our general male populations' testosterone deficiency.

    A small but very likable constant is my DH rim of choice, DT EX471s, take up the 1" black Gorrilla perfectly with no trimming.

    Home brew sealant is my favorite, but that's a different thread.


    I've been doing tubeless for almost 15 years and am still finding tricks. There is a learning curve.

  94. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by pedalinbob View Post
    I have a roll of Tyvek but have only tinkered a bit by taping an old rim. Seemed to go on well, very smooth.

    What sealant did you use, dwyooaaj?

    Bob
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  95. #395
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    I've been doing tubeless for almost 15 years and am still finding tricks. There is a learning curve.
    My learning curve involved researching and buying rims that TR tires would mount on easily, no trickery necessary.
    I brake for stinkbugs

  96. #396
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    Mavic en 827
    27mm inner d

    28 or 29 mm tape to use??

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    OK

  97. #397
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    :updated original post:

  98. #398
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    Quote Originally Posted by combfilter View Post
    :updated original post:
    What?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    What?
    OP updated their original post.

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    Quote Originally Posted by combfilter View Post
    :updated original post:
    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    What?
    Quote Originally Posted by literally View Post
    OP updated their original post.
    You're making assumptions Literally...Nope the original 2016 post doesn't appeared to have been updated and the OP was not Combfilter.

    Help me out here...
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

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