Tubeless and Schrader??
Hey all.. never done the tubeless thing, mostly because of laziness, however, would like to looking into it. I am running WTB laser TCS trail but they are drilled for Schrader.. any suggestions on how to get this done?
Thanks in advance.
Stan's sells a kit I believe. Interested in lessons learned here also- wanting to convert my boy's wheels this spring.
Gorilla Tape and Continental Schrader Valves cut out of tubes. Worked on my SpeedDisc AM rims that are similar to the LaserDisc Trail.
Origin 8 Scout 29
You have a couple options that I know of the first being what Bike Whisperer suggested which is getting a shrader valve that have threads so they can be secure similarly as a presta would. This will help to seal the gaps and keep the valve in place. I have seen another brand threaded shrader that some people use with great success, a quick search and you will find it.
The other option is using the ghetto split tube method. The nice thing about this is with some sealant (stans) and a pair of 20" shrader tubes from any sporting goods or big box store you should have the rims up and running in a few minutes, nothing to search for and nothing to order. I have done this with some rims and it has worked every time. You do have a small weight penalty but can also often overcome bead seating issues with the split tube. Another thing you will find loads of info on with a quick search.
I started ghetto split tube and a few rims and a new bike later and I am running stans rims with tape and in hindsight am happy I started easy. The nice thing is that you have options and in the end you will really enjoy all the benefits that tubeless has to offer, I can't imagine going back.
Originally Posted by BruceBrown
are you suggesting using typical presta tubeless valves with these little things to make it work?
ya, those look great actually.
Originally Posted by Josie7
I did a friends with some alum motorcycle stems that were recommended here (do a search, there is a tread buried down about 6 months to a yr ago about them) they worked friggin awesome other than the seal on them is kinda tall and the stem sticks out and above the rim so if you ever do get a flat you may end up wacking it. Plus it makes it hard if you have a tight beaded tire to get over the thing.
Doing it again I would pull the stock rubber seal off and just hit the hardware store for an o-ring that was the right size and that would take care of the whole issue. they were pretty cheap too,.. cheaper than Stan's and other regular bike stems.. think like 6 bucks each... really nice to be honest and I kinda liked them better than most presta units.. lighter too as they are alum instead of brass. had less issues installing. probably use them again over "filler" type ideas like above... not that those grommets are bad,.. just adding more $$$ and another spot to have issue installing and down the road...?
I don't like the cut tube option much for one it's hard to keep the stem in place without a screw to hold it, and if you end up with an issue on the trail and need to slap a tube in (like when a sidewall gets sliced and no amount of sealant will plug it) it's a real PIA to get that old stem out.
here's the stems... even less under 5 bucks each.... like 1/2 the price of presta and really well made/designed. Oh and I think I had to cut/grind some of the pinch nut off to make up for the extra space of a bike rim (gap between the web and the outer rim on a bicycle where a motor cycle is a single layer of steel)
Black anodized aluminum valve
Yup. Unless you can find some threaded Schrader valves to use (I cut a pair from a NoTubes Freeride Strip) that I used on one set of wheels. But now I use a presta valve (Bontrager ones) on those wheels.
Originally Posted by Josie7
Tip: dip the end of the valve that goes inside the wheel in sealant (or brush some sealant around it) before you install it and then crank down hard on the nut so you get a nice seal around the valve. Most "leaks" take place around the valve.