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  1. #1
    007
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    Tips and Tricks for setting up tubeless

    This is my first go with tubeless setups and I spent the better part of 2 hours trying to set up my new wheels last night with a 50% success rate.

    Rims are WTB Freq. i23's and tires are a WTB TCS Moto (F) and TCS Bronson (R). I am using a Lezyne Dirt Floor drive, which claims capability to seat tubeless tires. Well, I got the rear set up with moderate difficulty, but this morning it was still holding air. But for the life of me, I cannot get the front to seat. I also had a lot of difficulty with the rear and think its sheer dumb luck that I got it to do so.

    I've read the stan's instructions, read those provided by WTB as well as whatever I can find on the web. Anyone got any specific pointers?
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  2. #2
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    soapy water around the bead has worked for me.... but so has a compressor when I wasn't able to get it.

  3. #3
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    Old tyres with a stretched bead are harder to get a seal with. New tyres are much less hassle.
    Try pulling the bead out toward the rim edge to reduce the amount of air getting between the bead and the rim.
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  4. #4
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    If you are using a valve with a removable core, do this (assuming you've taped up your rim and installed the valve properly and you have a compressor):
    1. Put the tire on the rim on one side
    2. Put sealant in.
    3. Put the other bead on and make sure that both sides of the bead are set correctly
    4. Remove core from valve
    5. Put blowgun attachment on compressor.
    6. Shoot a blast of air into the tire (the higher volume of the blowgun is the secret in setting the bead)
    7. Put finger on the valve so all the air doesn't come out and reinstall core.
    8. Check for leaks.

  5. #5
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    Compressor and new tires.

  6. #6
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    I've set those exact rims with those exact tires up with no issue using a cheapish Topeak floor pump.
    Lots of soapy water on the bead. Bounce the tires on the ground a little and squish them with your hand against the rim (straight down).
    Try and get the bead out of the channel and onto the ramp.
    Then when you're pumping have the valve at the top of the rim and push the bead tight AROUND the tubeless valve.
    That's probably where you're failing. It was for me until I figured out that trick.
    If you just get a decent seal right around the valve you'll be able to air up the tire.
    Pump like a demon possessed (yep one handed, one hand pumping and one holding the bead on tight around the valve)

    Or you could probably skip all of that and use an air compressor.

    Let me know how it works out for you.
    Last edited by mestapho; 04-28-2012 at 10:08 AM.

  7. #7
    dwt
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrick2cents View Post
    soapy water around the bead has worked for me.... but so has a compressor when I wasn't able to get it.
    Both
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  8. #8
    dwt
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    Quote Originally Posted by flipnidaho View Post

    5. Put blowgun attachment on compressor.
    6. Shoot a blast of air into the tire (the higher volume of the blowgun is the secret in setting the bead).
    4 years running tubeless and I never heard of a blowgun attachment before.

    Doh!

    I have 5 bikes (3 mtn + 2 road) all mounted tubeless, all conversions, all set up and holding air since last season. But the next time I mount a tire, I am so going to Home Depot and dropping a mere $5.00 for a blowgun.

    Great tip
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  9. #9
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    You may want to consider getting a compressor if you're committed to running tubeless. I use a battery-powered portable Ryobi that I got from Home Depot equipped with presta adapter and it seats tubeless just fine.
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  10. #10
    007
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    Thanks for the suggestions. I ended up just going to the LBS and using their compressor. So far after 48 hours, they are still as firm as they were initially. No leaks, no seeping of fluid, nada . . . I think we're good to go!
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  11. #11
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    let me know what you think of the Bronson rear and Moto front.
    I'm running the reverse and really like them.

  12. #12
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    Reviving an old thread to ask a question.

    I went tubeless a couple weeks ago... Specialized Roval Wheels with two brand new Specialized tubeless tires and Stans sealant and stans yellow tape.

    I'm losing about 10psi overnight in the rear. At first I thought I might need to re-tape, but on my ride today, I noticed tiny amounts of sealant leaking around the rim. My question is, do I need to retape, or just try to re-seat the tire with my air compressor? Or any other suggestions?

    Thanks in advance for the help.

  13. #13
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    Hopefully you'll get more knowledgable replies than mine, as I've done the tubeless thing exactly once and then with a rim strip instead of tape.

    But I think tape is just to seal up the spokes and has nothing to do with sealing the tire to the rim.

    What process did you go through to seal the tire up? I'd reinflate the tire, make sure you have an adequate amount of sealant and then do the the shake and then let the tire sit flat on each side for a bit.

    Pretty good video here, but doesn't show the shake very well. I looked and couldn't find a better one, but I'm sure it's out there:


  14. #14
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    I appreciate the help. I followed the video from the stans website, which included the shake method, and let sit on a bucket. I did two tires, I also used my air compressor.. One holds air just fine, the other, not so much.

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    If they are new folded tyres .. I did read fit to wheel with tube for a day or so to let the tyre relax back in to shape...I had trouble with thus issue and used a fatty CO2 cartridge to sort it. It's nice to solve these problems yourself but sometimes it's nicer to get the LBS to do it and just get out and ride.

  16. #16
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    I'm wondering if a blowgun can be modified to deliver more air than the "factory" design.

  17. #17
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    Another trick is to seat the beads with a tube then remove the tube after unseating only one bead. Load the tire with sealant and then pull the unseated bead close to the rim. Lastly pump like crazy.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrewfuzzy View Post
    If they are new folded tyres .. I did read fit to wheel with tube for a day or so to let the tyre relax back in to shape...I had trouble with thus issue and used a fatty CO2 cartridge to sort it. It's nice to solve these problems yourself but sometimes it's nicer to get the LBS to do it and just get out and ride.
    I seated the tire again and it seems to be holding air just fine now. Your post on a new tire needing to get to shape made sense. Thanks!

  19. #19
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    for me it is the tubeless valve itself that jacks me. I need to crank that puppy down pretty tight...then finally it will allow a floor pump to do the jorb

  20. #20
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    Tips and Tricks for setting up tubeless

    Quote Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
    for me it is the tubeless valve itself that jacks me. I need to crank that puppy down pretty tight...then finally it will allow a floor pump to do the jorb
    I agree. Valve #1 culprit for air loss. Another idea is to put a drop of rubber cement ( or adhesive of your choice )on the valve rubber before inserting in the wheel. Then crank the nut hard. That should head off ant valve leaks.

    The #2 culprit is pinholes in the tire casing, via manufacturing defect. Sealant sometimes is slow to do it job even with tiny little holes. Smearing superglue over the pin pricks from the outside will seal them long enough for sealant to finish the job from them inside

    I've never had air escaping from the rim after the tire is seated and holding air. Before the tire beads seat, keeping the tire from losing its air during inflation is the big issue. Gotta shake the sealant around inside thoroughly, then sponge sudsy water around both sides of the rim while inflating. That generally blocks the air from escaping long enough for the tire to seat. With some tire/rim combos if you don't have a compressor, you could be. SOL. Once the beads seat , pressure up to 50psi or so to insure your tire is on securely, & let stand for a while. If it holds most if it's air over night , you are good to go. Mount on your bike, and pump the tire to desired riding pressure.




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