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Thread: Stan's Hubs

  1. #1
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    Stan's Hubs

    I have had really bad luck with a Stan's hub and I am wondering if my experience is unique or if other people have had similar problems. I don't want to bash Stan's, as they are a great company and have done a lot for mountain biking, but this has turned into a royal PITA.

    I got a new frame in September which required the 12 x 142 rear axle, so I bought a Stan's wheel with the Neo Hub from my local shop. Less than a month after buying it, the outer shell of the hub literally cracked in half. Stan's, to their credit, gave me a whole new wheel. I rode that for about 3-4 months. After noticing some noise and having a lot of skipping, I took it in to the shop and they found that the freehub body had basically disintegrated. Again, Stan's gave me a warranty and replaced the freehub body. I rode it last week one time for about 24 miles. The next day I washed the bike and took the rear wheel off to give it a good cleaning. The end cap fell off and I had a heck of a time getting the wheel back onto the bike. Then today I went out to ride and the rear hub was completely seized up.

    So I go back to the shop today and the owner/mechanic can't figure out what's wrong with it. Meanwhile, I sucked it up and ordered a set of $850 I-9 wheels that I really can't afford, but I am tired of messing with this Stan's wheel.

    So am I unlucky or do these hubs just really stink?
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  2. #2
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    There are several threads on the topic so use the search bar. This is a common complaint, those hubs suck. Too bad you didn't do that research before buying those wheels.
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  3. #3
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    As a curiosity...are you a clyde and a masher?

    in addition to having several other wheelsets, I have a set of Stan's (3.30's) with about 6,000 miles on them completely trouble-free.

    There are some on here that have not had the positive experiences with these that I have. I know of several friends that have the same trouble-free Stan's hubs/freehub that are also trouble-free. However they both have far less miles than mine.
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  4. #4
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    Scroll down a bit and you'll see the thread with all the other happy customers.

    I9 has had some issues but it's not because of a lack of effort. You're better off even though the cost stings right now.

  5. #5
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    Stan's hubs are made in Taiwan by Cho Sen. Sun Ringle also uses Cho Sen hubs.

  6. #6
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    If you want durable hubs that don't break the bank I would recommend looking into dt swiss.

  7. #7
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    Stan's 3.30's aren't bad...

    I kill the bearings on the rear hubs on occasion; otherwise they've held up to 195 lb mashing, water crossings, stairs and other technical features (on and off trail).

    Chris King and DT Swiss are the most bombproof in my experience. I like King's just a bit better because fun bolts can be cranked on as tight as you wish.

    DT skewers/bolt-on ends can't be tightened nearly as much because the design uses them to put some tension on the hub bearings. If you tighten the axle on DT's too much it can damage the internals.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    As a curiosity...are you a clyde and a masher?
    Uh, yes. I am 230 and don't win any KOM's on Strava for sure.
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  9. #9
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    Stan's Neo hub early impressions?

    I just got a set of Valor Pro's with the Ultimate hubs. I am light, 145 pounds racing Pro (I'm Cat 1 really though). I will post up if I have any problems. Though if I do, I am going to replace them with Project321 hubs.

  10. #10
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    I don't know about Neos, but I do know quite a bit about 3.30s. They have very low drag, and are easy to rebuild. 30 POE, which is enough. If you are less than 180ish pounds, they do everything a hub should. Over that and the 3.30 bearings may not last very long. 3.30 HD solves the bearing issue completely. However I am a clyde and serial bike abuser. I stripped a ring gear out of a 3.30 and then out of a 3.30 HD which was the warranty replacement. However on the 3.30 HD that was after 2 years of hard use including trips to Sedona and Seattle area. And if I am near stalled on a tech climb I will try to bang it up by ratcheting.

    I'm currently on a Hadley for my main rear hub, but have a 3.30HD as a backup wheel that is used a few times a month and it works very nicely for me. My lighter friends have had zero issues with 3.30s though.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rngspnr View Post
    If you want durable hubs that don't break the bank I would recommend looking into dt swiss.
    I like the Stans rims, but am building them up with DT350 hubs. A great combination in my experience.
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  12. #12
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    Early neo hubs cracking their hub shells was well documented. 3.30 hubs destroying their inner freehub bearing was also well documented. To date stan's hasn't had a hub worth owning, so far as i know.

    ----------------------------------------

    I'm over the endless parade of evolving hub standards and mediocre hubs, and i've switched almost all my bikes to hope and DT swiss hubs, which i intend to update as required. FOTM hub standard is a bunch of shit when hubs aren't built to last. I'm also sick of flat spotting stan's rims and have moved on to WTB frequency.

    I'm a not-fat clydesdale, but there's no reason for hubs to be designed with such little use tolerance. Durability comes first and $$$ should be for weight savings or doofy bearings or fast engagement or whatever.
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  13. #13
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    I've run three sets of Stan's hubs without issue. I love them, and I appreciate that they're easily convertible to just about any configuration. I'm 220lbs, and I'm more of a masher than anything.

    I had a 3.30 set laced to some Crests from 2013 that I can singlespeed for about a year (~500mi). I started riding these at around 250 lbs.

    Last year I picked up a set of Flows (not Mk3s) on 3.30HDs and have been beating on them with my full squish for a while. 500 miles on these maybe?

    And lastly, I have a pair of 3.30RDs on my CX race wheelset, and they've been excellent too. Only have a couple hundred miles in these though.

  14. #14
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    I ride Iron Cross wheels on my CX bike with NEO (6 pawl upgrade) no issues. I rode Valors all last year (4,000 miles) on my 9.8 Procaliber, again no issues. BK

  15. #15
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    We have two sets of Stan's wheels with 3.30 hubs and they've been trouble free.

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    The 3.30 hub is 240g with 30 POE and available new for about $90. I found it compelling for price and weight, then reconsidered after factoring the cost of relacing my wheel if a non-bearing part failed. Too many reports of that.

    For anyone curious, here's what it looks like relative to the 275g 48 POE Bitex MTR12:

    Stan's Hubs-img_0732.jpgStan's Hubs-img_0733.jpgStan's Hubs-img_0728.jpgStan's Hubs-img_0727.jpg

    It's a little hard to tell in the pictures, but the MTR has a noticeably thicker midsection and flanges. While both seem to be built to a high standard, the MTR feels like a different class of hub. The 3.30 makes a slightly louder, lower-pitched freewheel noise. The POE difference is more apparent than I expected.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexdi View Post
    While both seem to be built to a high standard, the MTR feels like a different class of hub. The 3.30 makes a slightly louder, lower-pitched freewheel noise. The POE difference is more apparent than I expected.
    When you say "the MTR feels like a different class of hub," are you saying that it's significantly better than the 3.30?

  18. #18
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    It feels chunkier in hand. Everything uses more metal: body, flanges, bearing shell, brake mounts, and even the base of the XD driver. This is not a comment on quality, merely design. I'd have been quite happy with the 3.30 if, at 180 lbs., I thought I could trust it in the long term. I don't want to mess with my wheels after they're assembled outside of the occasional bearing refresh.

    The 3.30 does feel like it has about half the freewheeling resistance of the MTR. I also find it interesting that the wheel center of the MTR is slightly left of the 3.30.

  19. #19
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    Blew up the SRAM freebody, but the hub itself has about 7,500 miles (Valor Pros, ultimate hubs) and no issues! Bomb proof so far! BK

  20. #20
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    SRAM Freehub? XD? What blew up?
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  21. #21
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    There seems to be some thought that the Neo hubs are more susceptible to issues with Shimano than SRAM freehubs. Just internetsss rambles though nothing specific to point too.

    I have a set of Neo hubs on MK's that have been good to go so far. BUT I have under 1k miles so the jury is out on mine. I did get mine after the initial runs that were known to have issues. I am also a not fat clyde but I am a spinner and not much of a masher. Maybe that has bearing (: on it.
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  22. #22
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    I think the problems with hub bearings have a simple solution: build your hubs with bigger, stronger bearings. Those tiny little 6902 drive side hub bearings don't hold up. BMX riders learned this years ago with 9t hubs.
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  23. #23
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    1000 miles in. Most of them pretty abusive. I broke my trail bike early in the season so I have been using my XC HT as my trail bike all summer too. 3-4' drops, jumps, etc. No problems at all. Plus my XC season and 4/5 8 hour endurance races (#5 is November).

    But after pinch flatting tubeless in a rock garden on some popular enduro trails, I finally bought a 160mm bike.

    So that was the end of the experiment. I'm happy with the wheels.

  24. #24
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    Bearings of course.

  25. #25
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    I'm becoming a Hope fanboi. I've got a set of Pro-2's that are 11 years old and still going strong. I'm 215# and sometimes mash / sometimes spin. Depends on what bike the hubs are on. They started out on a Dakar XLT, moved to a Komodo trail hardtail to a Komodo freeride hardtail, Santacruz Heckler, back to the FRHT, now they're on my daughter's 23# 26'er rigid mountain bike.

    I've replaced bearings 2x and greased the freehub ratchet maybe a 1/2dozen times.



    Now I'm on a set of Pro4's and very confident they'll last 4evr.
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  26. #26
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    ^^^^ 11 years. That's great.

    Did you service the bearings (clean & grease) or just replace them? What's your maintenance on the freehub?
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