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  1. #76
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    I had the same crack failure (fully on one side and halfway on the other) after 1.5 years of light use on my replacement freehub after the original seized. I'm surprised that the cassette lock ring would still tighten after I found it (yes, I did another ride on the cracked body and it held up - who knows how long it's been cracked!)

    Going to buy a replacement and sell the XT wheel.

  2. #77
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    i wish i had found this topic eralier

    around 1000km xc on it.



    sh*t.

  3. #78
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    There is more than one ratchet model used on 9sp XT free hubs. Enjoy:

    M750 Y-3BC-98030
    M752 Y-3BD-98010
    M755 Y-3BC-98010
    M756 Y-3BD-98010
    M756A Y-3SW-98060
    M760 Y-3CO-98010
    M765 Y-3CO-98010
    M770 Y-3CZ-98050
    M775 Y-3CZ-98050
    M785 Y-3CZ-98050
    M788 Y-3TH-98060
    T660 Y-3D6-98050
    T670 Y-3D6-98050
    T675 Y-3D6-98050
    T780 Y-3CZ-98050

    The Y-3CZ-98050 is the notorious model used with the 12mm aluminum axle. The dog-ears on the pawls snap off and turn into shrapnel that gets jammed in place. Your bike becomes a fixie/der destroyer.

    Other ratchets use pawls without dog-ears. There is a single spring down the center of the pawl (see Phil Wood) rather than two on the dog ears. They seem to fail by freewheeling due to wear or body cracking.

    The Y-3D6-98050 is on a 10mm steel axle with the same fixing bolt as the Y-3SW-98060. It may or may not have the same problem as the Y-3CZ-98050.

    The Y-3SW-98060 on the 756A is the same as that on the M529. This is the high flange hub Shimano rates for 36t cogs and 29ers. I would guess the M756A, with its high flanges, could pass the test as well.

    As a side note, the 36t rated low-mid flange M629 uses the Y-3D3-98080. This 32 point free hub is the same found on the SLX M675. The M675 and M629 seem to be the same save the hubshell finish/graphics.

    What I would love to see is postings noting the exact ratchet part number that failed. Just to get an idea of what is really going on.

  4. #79
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    So it's the same part# for 775 and 785 hubs. Maybe Shimano have "hidden" revisions not reflected in those designations? Otherwise 785 inherits all the problems of 775.
    26" faithful.

  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by kemal View Post
    What I would love to see is postings noting the exact ratchet part number that failed. Just to get an idea of what is really going on.
    I dont't know the ratchet's part number but i was running the FH-M785 bought in early 2013 from bike-components.de

    I sent the wheel in January 2014 to Shimano and they replaced the freehub on warranty. Unfotunately the hub turned into crap after one wet ride so i decided to switch to SLX m665.

    My fh-m785 after a wet ride:
    Shimano XT M775 Wheelset Freehub fails ?-img_2884.jpg
    Shimano XT M775 Wheelset Freehub fails ?-img_2885.jpg
    Shimano XT M775 Wheelset Freehub fails ?-img_2880.jpg

  6. #81
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    that's contaminated grease, but that rust wouldn't develop in one ride, that's a long-term issue....

  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by abuwz View Post
    Unfotunately the hub turned into crap after one wet ride so i decided to switch to SLX m665.

    It probably took more than one ride to develop the pitting on that cone too, holy schmoly!

  8. #83
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    I replaced my xt with a dt swiss 350 hub about 800 miles ago. I like the 18 point engagement. It's an expensive hub, 3-4 times the xt's price. I'll know for sure if it outlasts an xt in another 3 months. I even broke the supposedly stronger 36t compatible slx freehub I replaced my xt freehub with. No shimano hub has lasted more than 6 mo on my mtb.

  9. #84
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    Such cone damage is usually due to misadjustment.

    With that said, my rear hubs of choice these days are Nukeproof Generator and True Precision, with strong preference to the latter even though it's like 200 g heavier.
    26" faithful.

  10. #85
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    Shimano XT M775 Wheelset Freehub fails ?

    Quote Originally Posted by J. Random Psycho View Post
    Such cone damage is usually due to misadjustment.

    With that said, my rear hubs of choice these days are Nukeproof Generator and True Precision, with strong preference to the latter even though it's like 200 g heavier.
    Misadjustment and/or a hub that would not hold the adjustment. I had the later with my hub. Could only find a replacement cone as part of a complete axle assembly, for more than half the price I paid for the whole hub. Since the FH had previously failed, I replaced the hub with a different brand. The XT went straight into the recycle bin.
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  11. #86
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    I think the bulk of the failures on the Y3CZ98050 have been with the pawls/dog-ears. Yours is a cracked body. Did the pawls fail also, jamming the ratchet and perhaps causing the body to crack?

    Quote Originally Posted by abuwz View Post
    I dont't know the ratchet's part number but i was running the FH-M785 bought in early 2013 from bike-components.de

    I sent the wheel in January 2014 to Shimano and they replaced the freehub on warranty. Unfotunately the hub turned into crap after one wet ride so i decided to switch to SLX m665.

    My fh-m785 after a wet ride:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    This looks like a combination of grease failure (emulsification) and over tightening. It looks like false brinelling.

    These hubs use a threaded aluminum axle. Is it possible the end caps can not be tightened enough to prevent the cones from self-tightening? From 30+ years of rebuilding steel axle hubs I know I can tighten them enough to keep the cones in place. The SLX should be axle of steel.

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by abuwz View Post
    I dont't know the ratchet's part number but i was running the FH-M785 bought in early 2013 from bike-components.de

    I sent the wheel in January 2014 to Shimano and they replaced the freehub on warranty. Unfotunately the hub turned into crap after one wet ride so i decided to switch to SLX m665.

    My fh-m785 after a wet ride:
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	888984
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	888985
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Lookin good there! I used to park and ride my commuter out in the rain for several years. I had one of the cheapest hubs, non series crapola. and after 4 years it was like new inside. I cracked mine open at least once a year though for a full cleaning and regreasing. I used solvents and 556 in the mechanism.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

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    Specialized sucks ass.

  13. #88
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    I called Shimano North America. Asked about the Y-3CZ-98050 free hub body used on the M770, M775/6, M785 and T780. The part was updated in the 12/2013-1/2014 timeframe.

    Let's hope this is the end of the bad metallurgy.

  14. #89
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    I apologize if this has been addressed already. I just blew out my freehub body on my shimano fh-m475 for the second time. I know they aren't the best hubs out there at all but at the time I can't afford a new wheel set or hubs. Do any of you know if any other freehub bodies are interchangeable with this one? I can just buy the same one again but I would think the slx, xt or xtr would be stronger than what is on there.

  15. #90
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    Shimano XT M775 Wheelset Freehub fails ?

    Quote Originally Posted by kemal View Post
    I think the bulk of the failures on the Y3CZ98050 have been with the pawls/dog-ears. Yours is a cracked body. Did the pawls fail also, jamming the ratchet and perhaps causing the body to crack?



    This looks like a combination of grease failure (emulsification) and over tightening. It looks like false brinelling.

    These hubs use a threaded aluminum axle. Is it possible the end caps can not be tightened enough to prevent the cones from self-tightening? From 30+ years of rebuilding steel axle hubs I know I can tighten them enough to keep the cones in place. The SLX should be axle of steel.
    The aluminum axle could be the issue. The threads can deform more easily allowing the adjustment to change (tighten or loosen).
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  16. #91
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    I've had a similar issue with a Deore freehub body developing cracks and falling apart. Both times the freehub body was less than 3 months old (i'd estimate less than 100 hours riding). The photo below is the remnants of the freehub body after the first failure (heard a popping sound and the freehub locked up so that I couldn't pedal, cue a 2 hour walk home).

    Shimano XT M775 Wheelset Freehub fails ?-freehub-failure.jpg

    The first time it was warrantied no questions asked as the wheelset was on a new bike, but this time I'm nowhere near a dealer (or even a bikeshop for that matter) that I could take the wheel to so it could be replaced through warranty. The second time it happened was a few days ago, and exactly the same thing happened again. I'm probably going to replace the whole wheel, as I just don't trust the shimano freehubs given my experience on them. Incredibly disappointed.

  17. #92
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    Purchased new bike 2 months ago with deore hubs. Second freehub in that timespan is already sticking. Highly dissapointed and discouraged. Local lbs won't sell or service this hub. I'm hoping Shimano will warranty me with an xtr freehub to make this mess right.

  18. #93
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    Dang 802. Sorry. Last time I tried to warranty one as a consumer they asked me if I had ever broken spokes. I said yes. They asked if I had completely detensioned the wheel when I replaced the spokes.

    Seriously?

    If anything I think overtorquing the cassette lock ring may be to blame in some of these failures. Now that I am working as a shop owner mechanic I use a torque wrench when I install cassettes (and most other drive train parts) and I find that the 40 Nm spec is a lot lower than we often beast these things on at.
    Obviously, you're not a golfer.

  19. #94
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    Interesting thought about the torque wrench. This particular bike came from a shop outside of town, not the one I mentioned. So I took it there (where it was built) to have the second freehub installed. He was wrenching on it HARD. I've previously had a hell of a time undoing other bolts. Also, there is a plastic guard between my wheel and cassette which is bent (could've been a rock, who knows). And, I've been really struggling to keep my derailleurs aligned. Could it all be related? Who knows. I'm trying to learn my way around the bike so I've given this all a lot of thought and something just isn't adding up--maybe you're onto it.

  20. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by 802spokestoke View Post
    Interesting thought about the torque wrench. This particular bike came from a shop outside of town, not the one I mentioned. So I took it there (where it was built) to have the second freehub installed. He was wrenching on it HARD. I've previously had a hell of a time undoing other bolts. Also, there is a plastic guard between my wheel and cassette which is bent (could've been a rock, who knows). And, I've been really struggling to keep my derailleurs aligned. Could it all be related? Who knows. I'm trying to learn my way around the bike so I've given this all a lot of thought and something just isn't adding up--maybe you're onto it.

    I seriously doubt overtorquing the cassette lockring is breaking freehub bodies. Also, it sounds like you might be equating the lockring with the freehub's anchor bolt (I'm sure there's a better name for it). The freehub anchor bolt should be damn tight to keep it from wandering loose. The cassette lockring doesn't seem to matter a whole lot for steel freehub bodies, just as long as it's fairly tight.

    It seems pretty clear to me that inferior materials/construction is the problem, not user error. Shimano is cutting corners with these freehubs and it works fine for 95+% of riders, which may be fine with shimano.

  21. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by 802spokestoke View Post
    Purchased new bike 2 months ago with deore hubs. Second freehub in that timespan is already sticking. Highly dissapointed and discouraged. Local lbs won't sell or service this hub. I'm hoping Shimano will warranty me with an xtr freehub to make this mess right.
    Your LBS needs to step up. Replacing an FH body should take them 15 minutes.

    Which model of Deore are you running? If it is an FH-M615, which should have a 98060 FHB. This body is used on the M529, which is rated for 29er/hi torque 36t cog.

    Shimano will send another body. The 98060 is a $19 part. An XTR body is in excess of $160. Best of luck getting the whole XTR hub.

  22. #97
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    yeah, warranty replacement does not equal "free upgrade"

  23. #98
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    I was thinking just the xtr freehub (If it's even compatible, I'm not sure). I really don't expect them to send one. But I will be politely pressing the issue that this is not acceptable for a 5 inch travel bike (That would be taken up with the bike manufacturer). The LBS that won't fix it has told me they will have nothing to do with shimano hubs. I didn't buy the bike from them so I'm not really concerned, rather I was showing the reputation that these hubs have made for themselves.
    The shop I bought it from is over an hour away--but that's my problem.
    The hub is an FHM-618. I cannot find a part number on the freehub on the workbench.
    I should probably just try and get some money for the wheelset and upgrade, but that's alot of lost riding time.

  24. #99
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    Shop owner was awesome. He was understanding and is willingly taking it up with shimano for me. Fingers crossed.

  25. #100
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    Props to shimano for doing right. Free upgrade in the mail. Sounds like shop owner had to work some magic but none the less.

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