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  1. #1
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    Running my Enve's tubeless. Am I tempting fate

    Hey all,

    I've searched the forums high and low, but still aren't too sure on this. I have the older style Edge/Enve 29er AM wheels. After a Summer of flats I've had enough and am converting to tubeless.

    I started by using foam weather stripping tape to build up the rim bed, but it was a little thick and not really wide enough (1 could only find 1" width and 1/4 thick). Man was that stuff a b1tch to remove from the rim. Never do that without tape underneath.

    I also tried gorilla tape, but that quickly gets heavy, negating any weight benefit and even adding weight. I finally used Stans yellow tape, and 3 scoops for my Nobby Nicks. Worked super easy with a compressor, but I'm worried about all the stories of burping etc, as the center of the rim bed is definitely lower than the edges and the tires are not super tight. I typically run 32psi+

    What do you think? Should I build up the rim bed? If so with what? I used 3 scoops of Stans and still have a goal of keeping the conversion under 150g vs a 200g tube, but not if it'll cost me my neck...

    I run a Racing Ralph on the rear but haven't had the courage to convert that yet. Just seems so fragile for tubeless.

  2. #2
    change is good
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    I had the older rims and I used the split tube method with tubeless ready tires successfully.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
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    I have the 2012 AM Enve's. I used gorilla tape overlaping the valve hole. I run specialized 2bliss tires and use 4 oz of Orange Seal sealant...no issues.

  4. #4
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    I have Stan's wheels and they just have the yellow tape and a valve. So i would think any rim could be taped and valved.

    So the only issue is: how tight is the bead of your tire to the rim? If it's tight then the tire should stay on. i had some croosmarks that were super loose on my rims and they would just pop off if there was any lateral load. My WTB TCS tires will never come off and don't even burp.

    You will have better luck with a Tubeless, Tubeless Ready, or a TCS style tire as they have a tighter bead.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the replies people. Indeed the issue is not whether I can convert them, that went pretty well with just a layer of yellow tape. The issue is the deep center channel in the rims, which could potentially increase the risk of burping. 5 rides in and so far so good though. But I'm running almost 35psi to avoid the risk, and id like to be at 30psi ideally.

    BTW the new Enve rims are a completely different profile (as are the Stans rims) so not really a relevant comparison unfortunately. I hear what you're saying about trying multiple tires. I do love my Schwalbes though.....

  6. #6
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    I would call Enve and ask them (877 358-2869). They are great to deal with.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rock dude View Post
    I would call Enve and ask them (877 358-2869). They are great to deal with.
    Thanks, that makes sense. One of the threads I searched said that Enve didn't recommend converting their older style rims, but I can always confirm that.

  8. #8
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Serenity Now View Post
    Thanks for the replies people. Indeed the issue is not whether I can convert them, that went pretty well with just a layer of yellow tape. The issue is the deep center channel in the rims, which could potentially increase the risk of burping. 5 rides in and so far so good though. But I'm running almost 35psi to avoid the risk, and id like to be at 30psi ideally.

    BTW the new Enve rims are a completely different profile (as are the Stans rims) so not really a relevant comparison unfortunately. I hear what you're saying about trying multiple tires. I do love my Schwalbes though.....
    Deep center channels do not cause burping.

    Lack of a good bead seat shelf with an inner bead lock ridge (and tires and rims not designed to work tegether without tubes) increases the occurrence of burping. If the tire bead is locked and sealed to the rim bead center depth does not matter. If the tire bead does not stay seated even a shallow center will burp.

    The tire bead shape also needs to interface properly with the rim bead shape to seal and lock in place.
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  9. #9
    J-Flo
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    I agree with Shiggy. All tubeless setups run with some depth in the center channel. Not sure why you are trying to eliminate the center channel, but that cannot possibly be a good idea for stability of the tire mount, which requires air pressure on the bead.

    Alarmed to hear that Crossmarks wouldn't stay mounted tubeless -- I just picked up some for my setup. What rims?

  10. #10
    proshopers
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    Smile

    Hi - I've been running the older "Edge" 29AM's tubeless with 2.4 R/Ralphs and 2.2 R/Rons for nearly a year now with no problems - one layer of gorilla tape and a Stans 700 tubeless kit with extra long valve stems (not forgetting two scoops of No Tubes) - Initially I had the same concerns as yourself and have been gradually lowering the pressure and now run 30 rear and 28 front - just back from a weekend at Coed Y Brenin where the wheels took a real hammering and performed faultlessly.

    Hope this helps.

  11. #11
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    Thanks for the replies. About 5 rides on the front tubeless with some jumps and rocky rides with no issues, but I am running them still at around 35psi.

    Good to know that a deep center channel is not an issue per se, but a good tight rim/bead connection obviously is.

    Proshoper, what is a Stans 700 kit? Do you mean a 700c kit? I haven't gone that route yet as I figured, hey if just the yellow tape works, great.

  12. #12
    proshopers
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    Sorry I meant 700c - I had trouble in the UK sourcing UST valves long enough for the Edge/Enve rims and settled on using the Stans tubeless rim strip with built in extra long valves - with the gorilla tape it gives a belt and braces approach!.. Aso I've had past issues with using UST tubeless valves where they have spun in the rim and been unable to undo so this system also prevents that.

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