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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Mike_mtn: thanks for the info! If you are not getting any flats, and your Arch rims are not getting dented up from rock impacts, then you won't have any problem with the Control 29 Carbon wheels. Alloy rims will dent before a carbon rim cracks, so that's why I was asking. The Control 29's are more resistant to impact damage also than the Control Trail SL's because of the way the rim is manufactured, and since they are a better deal price wise, I'd suggest getting those. They are also 1mm wider(22mm inner width) than the Trail SL's, so that will help shoulder that large 2.4 tire you have on the front.
    Joe: great info! Couple quick questions: will 16 psi be OK for either of these wheelsets? I was thinking the Control 29 Carbon would be more durable than the Control SL 29 and I like the price better for sure, but 1370g is an attractive weight on the SL. The Specialized site shows the inner rim widths at 22mm for both wheelsets but you mention that the SL's are narrower? Thanks!

  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike_mtn View Post
    Joe: great info! Couple quick questions: will 16 psi be OK for either of these wheelsets? I was thinking the Control 29 Carbon would be more durable than the Control SL 29 and I like the price better for sure, but 1370g is an attractive weight on the SL. The Specialized site shows the inner rim widths at 22mm for both wheelsets but you mention that the SL's are narrower? Thanks!
    Mike_mtn- 16psi is a tough one. Normally I'd say this is way too low, but you do not seem to be having trouble with it. I think part of it has to do with the large volume tire you're running. To say if a rim can handle a certain psi would be inaccurate since again, it all depends on riding style, trail conditions, and what kind of tire you are using (thin or thicker casing, volume, etc). Like I mentioned before, knowing that you are not having problems with your alloy rims, I would anticipate no problems with the carbon rims.

    Rim widths- sorry, I didn't realize you were comparing Control SL's to Control Carbon's. These two wheels have the same inner width (22mm), it is the Control Trail SL's that are 21mm inner width.

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Mike_mtn- 16psi is a tough one. Normally I'd say this is way too low, but you do not seem to be having trouble with it. I think part of it has to do with the large volume tire you're running. To say if a rim can handle a certain psi would be inaccurate since again, it all depends on riding style, trail conditions, and what kind of tire you are using (thin or thicker casing, volume, etc). Like I mentioned before, knowing that you are not having problems with your alloy rims, I would anticipate no problems with the carbon rims.

    Rim widths- sorry, I didn't realize you were comparing Control SL's to Control Carbon's. These two wheels have the same inner width (22mm), it is the Control Trail SL's that are 21mm inner width.
    Roval Joe - good to know about the 16 psi, I was concerned that the zero bead hook design might affect the tire performance negatively at low psi compared to my Arch EX rims.

    You mention that the Control Trail SL has a different manufacturing design than the Control Carbon. Since rim width is the same for Control SL and Control Carbon do they have similar resistance to impact damage and share the same carbon manufacturing design? Or do the Control SL and Control Trail SL share the same carbon manufacturing design? Thanks again, Joe.

  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike_mtn View Post
    Roval Joe - good to know about the 16 psi, I was concerned that the zero bead hook design might affect the tire performance negatively at low psi compared to my Arch EX rims.

    You mention that the Control Trail SL has a different manufacturing design than the Control Carbon. Since rim width is the same for Control SL and Control Carbon do they have similar resistance to impact damage and share the same carbon manufacturing design? Or do the Control SL and Control Trail SL share the same carbon manufacturing design? Thanks again, Joe.
    mike_mtn- just to be clear (because I get easily confused) we are talking about 3 different wheels:
    - Control SL
    - Control Carbon
    - Control Trail SL

    Control SL and Control Carbon have similar design without bead hook, and Control Trail SL is the older style with a bead hook. Control SL and Control Carbon both have higher impact resistance than the Control Trail SL. Control SL and Control carbon have similar impact resistance, however, Control Carbon is a bit higher. This rim uses a bit more material in it, so it ends up being a bit more robust. Hope this helps!

  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    mike_mtn- just to be clear (because I get easily confused) we are talking about 3 different wheels:
    - Control SL
    - Control Carbon
    - Control Trail SL

    Control SL and Control Carbon have similar design without bead hook, and Control Trail SL is the older style with a bead hook. Control SL and Control Carbon both have higher impact resistance than the Control Trail SL. Control SL and Control carbon have similar impact resistance, however, Control Carbon is a bit higher. This rim uses a bit more material in it, so it ends up being a bit more robust. Hope this helps!
    Roval Joe - Perfect, just the info I was looking for, thank you! Now, can you tell me when and where to get the best deals on the Control SL or Control Carbon?!

  6. #406
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    Demo'ed a a set of Roval Control 29 carbon this weekend, the 1200 no bead hook model. I have read that it is "stiffer" without the bead but I noted a harshness that I did not associate with the model year 2011 Roval Control SL's 29 which have less spokes, and bead hook. Can you speak to this? Both were used on Epic 29ers same tires and pressures (25psi). I am mistaking stiffness for harshness? I currently ride a set of the aluminum roval controls (epic expert 2012 level) and no tubes arch ex 29 and consider neither harsh.

  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike_mtn View Post
    Roval Joe - Perfect, just the info I was looking for, thank you! Now, can you tell me when and where to get the best deals on the Control SL or Control Carbon?!
    Your best bet is to go see your nearest Specialized dealer!

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHSAD View Post
    Demo'ed a a set of Roval Control 29 carbon this weekend, the 1200 no bead hook model. I have read that it is "stiffer" without the bead but I noted a harshness that I did not associate with the model year 2011 Roval Control SL's 29 which have less spokes, and bead hook. Can you speak to this? Both were used on Epic 29ers same tires and pressures (25psi). I am mistaking stiffness for harshness? I currently ride a set of the aluminum roval controls (epic expert 2012 level) and no tubes arch ex 29 and consider neither harsh.
    CHSAD- sure, let me try to explain. To clarify on what you read about the wheel being stiffer w/out the bead hook, that is a bit off the mark. The way this rim is constructed makes the sidewall stronger, which makes it more resistant to impact, but that does not actually significantly add to the overall stiffness of the wheel. The strength comes from laying continuous layers of fibers across the sidewall and rim bed, as opposed to machining in a bead hook after molding, which cuts fibers and inherently makes the rim more susceptible to cracking from impacts like a rock strike.

    In regards to your question about stiffness/harshness, there are different ways in which you can measure stiffness. The most common form of stiffness discussed is side to side stiffness, and usually measured by placing a wheel in a fixture that holds it solid, then applying a load to the side of the rim and measuring how much the rim deflects (this takes into account the whole wheel, not just the rim stiffness). This would give an idea of how much the wheel flexes side to side when turning, etc. There are a lot of things that affect this stiffness, including how wide your hub flange is, what kind and how many spokes are being used, they size/construction of the rim, etc. Another way to talk about stiffness would be vertical stiffness, and that would be how much your rim deflects when a force is applied directly to the top of the rim (like if you hit a large bump in the trial). Both of these types of stiffness could contribute to the "harsh" feeling that you are experiencing, as the Control Carbon wheels measure much stiffer than their alloy counterparts. For the sake of comparison, I'm assuming you used the same tires and tire pressure that you run on your alloy wheels? Different tire casing and higher than normal pressure would also affect how the wheels feel in regards to harshness. When we created the Control Carbon wheels, we wanted a wheel that was very dependable, but still quite light and race worthy. This is a tough task if you consider how many bikes this wheel would end up going on, as well as the weight/riding style range of the end user. If you wanted to try something that was really light and less harsh of a ride, you might be interested in trying our new 2014 Control SL's. They use less spokes and a little bit different rim design for a still robust rim, but you loose almost 200g out of the wheelset weight.

    Hope all of this helps, let me know if you have any further questions.

  9. #409
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    Great explanation Roval Joe. Going to try the Controls again this weekend. Like the pricepoint in comparison to the SL. In the end the set I choose will end up on a S-Works Epic 29 2014 frame set that is alost ready to go.

  10. #410
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    Hello roval joe,

    i have one question regarding my roval trail sl 26" alloy wheel set with carbon front hub.
    I think this wheel set should be the same as the works installed original wheelset of the 2011 Sworks Stumpjumper FSR modell. I need the spoke data for the front and rear wheel, because some spokes looks like i should have to change them.

    Another questions is how can i change the bearings in the front and rear hub.
    Is there anything special which i have to know for this work?

    Thank you in advance.

  11. #411
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    Quote Originally Posted by stumpjumper_sworks View Post
    Hello roval joe,

    i have one question regarding my roval trail sl 26" alloy wheel set with carbon front hub.
    I think this wheel set should be the same as the works installed original wheelset of the 2011 Sworks Stumpjumper FSR modell. I need the spoke data for the front and rear wheel, because some spokes looks like i should have to change them.

    Another questions is how can i change the bearings in the front and rear hub.
    Is there anything special which i have to know for this work?

    Thank you in advance.
    stumpjumper_sworks: please see earlier in this thread where I have posted all service part data (spoke specs, lengths, part numbers, etc) for your wheels. If you have a problem looking it up, or don't understand something, let me know and I can help you with it.

    regarding bearing replacement, you would replace these same as any other hub bearing, using a press to make sure they go in evenly and do not damage the hub shell. Most dealers should have a tool to do this, so I'd recommend taking the wheels to a dealer first.

  12. #412
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    Morning Roval Joe and thanks for the extra effort in putting together this thread. I'm getting my first Specialized delivered today ('13 Camber Comp Carbon-used) and from what I understand this will be a 26mm Roval rim with generic hubs, J-bend spokes, etc. I have perused a lot of this thread and based on what I've read:
    1) am I correct to assume that the rims are 26mm wide (ext) and 21mm(int) widths? Also they're tubeless-compatible with just tape and valves?
    2) If tubeless IS the case what will the tape look like (so I easily identify it) and will I need Specialized valves or will another brand like Stan's work as well. If the valves should be Spesh-branded, would my local dealer likely have these in stock?
    3) Is the rear hub for this bike model the "New Specialized Hi Lo disc, 4x-sealed cartridge bearing"? Is there a way to tell externally if this is the case? Fwiw, the rims are grey-labeled. I'm really hoping theses are the re-engineered hubs based on some of the issues I've read about with the older model.
    [B]
    Edit: It arrived today and upon closer inspection the wheel decals say "Roval Control Trail 29". I took the picture from an eBay listing, but this is what they look like:

    Roval questions?-rct29.jpg


    Thanks again!
    Last edited by MTBeing; 01-21-2014 at 08:53 AM.
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  13. #413
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    Hi Joe:
    I recall earlier that you indicated the 2014 Roval Control and RC SL wheels would have the DT Swiss 36t ratchet.

    However, is it possible to upgrade or install the 36t ratchet in a 2013 Roval Control SL wheelset?

  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    Morning Roval Joe and thanks for the extra effort in putting together this thread. I'm getting my first Specialized delivered today ('13 Camber Comp Carbon-used) and from what I understand this will be a 26mm Roval rim with generic hubs, J-bend spokes, etc. I have perused a lot of this thread and based on what I've read:
    1) am I correct to assume that the rims are 26mm wide (ext) and 21mm(int) widths? Also they're tubeless-compatible with just tape and valves?
    2) If tubeless IS the case what will the tape look like (so I easily identify it) and will I need Specialized valves or will another brand like Stan's work as well. If the valves should be Spesh-branded, would my local dealer likely have these in stock?
    3) Is the rear hub for this bike model the "New Specialized Hi Lo disc, 4x-sealed cartridge bearing"? Is there a way to tell externally if this is the case? Fwiw, the rims are grey-labeled. I'm really hoping theses are the re-engineered hubs based on some of the issues I've read about with the older model.
    [B]
    Edit: It arrived today and upon closer inspection the wheel decals say "Roval Control Trail 29". I took the picture from an eBay listing, but this is what they look like:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks again!
    Mtbeing- the hubs from '13 are different from the older versions which had some quality issues. With the bronze colored rim strips on there, you should be able to just add a valve and sealant, and they should work fine. You can get Roval valves from Specialized dealers, but I have heard of people successfully using other valves in a pinch. And you are correct on widths, both internal and external.

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by thetoque View Post
    Hi Joe:
    I recall earlier that you indicated the 2014 Roval Control and RC SL wheels would have the DT Swiss 36t ratchet.

    However, is it possible to upgrade or install the 36t ratchet in a 2013 Roval Control SL wheelset?
    I think I just answered your question in a PM, but just to be clear, yes, 36t ratchets are compatible with any star ratchet hub.

  16. #416
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    Roval Joe,

    One more question please...I'm still a bit confused by the nomenclature of the Rovals and specifically what the wheelset on my 2013 C/C/C equates to. In very small print on my Roval *rim* decal it states "Control Trail 29". I understand these wheels to be oem and not true Roval wheel system wheels (like these: Specialized Bicycle Components), due to the HiLo hub spec. To make a short story long, I'm trying to get a wheelset weight for this bike so I can decide whether or not to upgrade to a set of lighter Roval wheels in the future. Thank you.
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  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    Roval Joe,

    One more question please...I'm still a bit confused by the nomenclature of the Rovals and specifically what the wheelset on my 2013 C/C/C equates to. In very small print on my Roval *rim* decal it states "Control Trail 29". I understand these wheels to be oem and not true Roval wheel system wheels (like these: Specialized Bicycle Components), due to the HiLo hub spec. To make a short story long, I'm trying to get a wheelset weight for this bike so I can decide whether or not to upgrade to a set of lighter Roval wheels in the future. Thank you.
    Yes, the wheels you have are not the hand built set. These are an OE configuration that uses a Roval rim, which is the same that comes on Roval wheelsets. Which wheelset weight in particular are you looking for?

  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Yes, the wheels you have are not the hand built set. These are an OE configuration that uses a Roval rim, which is the same that comes on Roval wheelsets. Which wheelset weight in particular are you looking for?
    I apologize that I wasn't clear in my last post. I'm looking for the weight of the wheelset pictured above in my first post to you. It's the stock wheelset for the 2013 Camber Comp Carbon 29.
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  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    I apologize that I wasn't clear in my last post. I'm looking for the weight of the wheelset pictured above in my first post to you. It's the stock wheelset for the 2013 Camber Comp Carbon 29.
    ok, got it. unfortunately I don't have a weight for that wheelset, and don't have one at the office to reference. A lot of shops have scales, maybe you could probably take them in to get weighed?

  20. #420
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    Roval Joe,

    Have a set of 142+ Roval Control 29 Aluminum wheels that came off a 2012 Epic Expert 29 Carbon bike. I want to convert the rear free hub to the XD driver to run XX1 or X01. Can you tell me the part number of the free hub/XD driver I need to have the LBS get from Specialized? I have read the 142+ driver is not the same as the regualar 142 version and for optimal performance you the version from Specialized is recommended.

  21. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHSAD View Post
    Roval Joe,

    Have a set of 142+ Roval Control 29 Aluminum wheels that came off a 2012 Epic Expert 29 Carbon bike. I want to convert the rear free hub to the XD driver to run XX1 or X01. Can you tell me the part number of the free hub/XD driver I need to have the LBS get from Specialized? I have read the 142+ driver is not the same as the regualar 142 version and for optimal performance you the version from Specialized is recommended.
    Hi CHSAD- I've posted the PN's in here earlier, but the PN you need is S132100005. The freehub body is the same for 135/142+, but you need the special end cap for 142+ that comes with this part number.

  22. #422
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    Roval Joe,

    I'm hesitating between a 29er carbon set of Roval Traverse SL and Roval Control. Both have 22mm internal width, but the Control are about 100g lighter and $500 cheaper. Do I get substantially more stiffness with the Traverse, or impact resistance should I blow a tire? While I ride nearly every day technical, rocky terrain fast, I only weight 142lbs. Will I feel much difference? Just from reading the specs, the Control seem a better buy. Thanks!

  23. #423
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    Hi Joe,

    I was wondering if the decals on the carbon wheelsets (specifically the Control 29) are removable, and if so, how can I do that and ensure that the carbon/resin layup below is not damaged?

    Thanks!

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by VII View Post
    Roval Joe,

    I'm hesitating between a 29er carbon set of Roval Traverse SL and Roval Control. Both have 22mm internal width, but the Control are about 100g lighter and $500 cheaper. Do I get substantially more stiffness with the Traverse, or impact resistance should I blow a tire? While I ride nearly every day technical, rocky terrain fast, I only weight 142lbs. Will I feel much difference? Just from reading the specs, the Control seem a better buy. Thanks!
    VII- with the Traverse wheels, you'll get a bit more stiffness and impact resistance. As light as you are, I do not think you'll have a problem using the Control Carbon's. The rims are both the same dimension, just different materials. If you don't currently have problems killing wheels, I'd save the money and go with the Control Carbon's.

  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by dennisbd99 View Post
    Hi Joe,

    I was wondering if the decals on the carbon wheelsets (specifically the Control 29) are removable, and if so, how can I do that and ensure that the carbon/resin layup below is not damaged?

    Thanks!
    dennisbd99- the decals on these wheels are a water slide decal that is applied, then covered with a clear coat (the entire rim is coated with a clear coat). In theory, you could sand off the decal, however, you would want to be EXREMELY careful to not sand below the decal and into the fibers. But then you'd be left with a goofy looking rim, unless you sanded the whole rim and put another clear coat on it. Considering you'd need to down build the wheel to do this correctly, it might not be worth the trouble.

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    VII- with the Traverse wheels, you'll get a bit more stiffness and impact resistance. As light as you are, I do not think you'll have a problem using the Control Carbon's. The rims are both the same dimension, just different materials. If you don't currently have problems killing wheels, I'd save the money and go with the Control Carbon's.
    Thanks Joe. One more question: are the Control Carbon much stiffer than the current Traverse aluminum? I have a set of those now, and I'm not so thrilled with stiffness. Thanks!

  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by VII View Post
    Thanks Joe. One more question: are the Control Carbon much stiffer than the current Traverse aluminum? I have a set of those now, and I'm not so thrilled with stiffness. Thanks!
    VII- the Control carbons are stiffer than Traverse 29 alloy. The only stiffer wheel we make is the Traverse SL. Also, I'm surprised to hear that you're having stiffness issues with the Traverse Alloy wheels, especially with your light weight. Mind if I ask what kind of tires you're running, pressure, and what terrain you're riding in?

  28. #428
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    I'm glad I asked, as that is exactly what I want to avoid doing.

    I've read through this whole forum and not seen anyone comment on this, but have you gotten much feedback on the aesthetics of the rim decals? I've seen your comments throughout this post about having to stock so many different options for axle options etc., so I'm very surprised that there are several different decal color options. For example: I'm interested in the Control Carbon 29, and I'm not a fan of any of the color options I've seen (White, Red, and Silver). I'd think that it would be better to keep one decal and stock only the OEM 142+ and aftermarket 135/142 versions, or possibly a different graphic for each.

    For OEM wheels the decals are obviously going to match the bike, but I imagine that there are a lot of people (myself included) who would prefer a different color to match their bike or at least a more attractive decal.

    FWIW, I currently ride 2012 Traverse 29's on my Bandit and I've been thoroughly impressed with the stiffness and durability. Great wheels!

  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by dennisbd99 View Post
    I'm glad I asked, as that is exactly what I want to avoid doing.

    I've read through this whole forum and not seen anyone comment on this, but have you gotten much feedback on the aesthetics of the rim decals? I've seen your comments throughout this post about having to stock so many different options for axle options etc., so I'm very surprised that there are several different decal color options. For example: I'm interested in the Control Carbon 29, and I'm not a fan of any of the color options I've seen (White, Red, and Silver). I'd think that it would be better to keep one decal and stock only the OEM 142+ and aftermarket 135/142 versions, or possibly a different graphic for each.

    For OEM wheels the decals are obviously going to match the bike, but I imagine that there are a lot of people (myself included) who would prefer a different color to match their bike or at least a more attractive decal.

    FWIW, I currently ride 2012 Traverse 29's on my Bandit and I've been thoroughly impressed with the stiffness and durability. Great wheels!
    Dennisbd99- I do get feedback on graphics from time to time, and the biggest takeaway is, you can't please everyone when it comes to colors/graphics. That being said, you will see something new from us in '15 in this regard, which actually tries to address different tastes. It still may not please everyone, but I'm pretty confident we'll make a lot more people happy. Currently for AM wheels, we only produce one colorway, and then as you mention, colors are matched to some extent for OE wheels. Maybe when you see the product launch, months down the road, you can let me know what you think on this forum? Feedback is always appreciated, regardless of whether it's love or hate.

    Also, glad you are liking your Traverse 29's!

  30. #430
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    VII- the Control carbons are stiffer than Traverse 29 alloy. The only stiffer wheel we make is the Traverse SL. Also, I'm surprised to hear that you're having stiffness issues with the Traverse Alloy wheels, especially with your light weight. Mind if I ask what kind of tires you're running, pressure, and what terrain you're riding in?
    Thanks for the info, Joe. Also, I take back my comment about stiffness. It was my first ride and things were not dialed. Additional riding show the wheels to be stiff. They are just bit heavy for my taste. I ordered some Control Carbon; looking forward to riding those!

  31. #431
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    Hi, great thread very informative!

    I have a Roval Traversee AL from 2010, the red one, similar to those (same MY).
    Roval Traverse EL Wheelset - Preview - Pinkbike

    Are the spoke length of the rear wheel the same as 2011 like you posted before (268 and 271mm) or different? From my information the EL used triple gauged 2-1.7-1.8 and AL used double gauged 2-2.8-2 spokes.

    Furthermore, the rear hub has some play and doing strange noises, i made this rebuild but with no great effect, i should sostitute it i think after 4 years and hopefully upgrade to a ratchet one, is it avaiable as a spare parts or should you advice me about a possible sostitution?

    Thank you and greetings from Italy

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    Hey Roval Joe,

    I need to change the front wheel bearings on my 2012 Control Trail SL 29 142+ wheels. I thought I needed the 6704 bearings, but I've been reading that it might be 6804.

    Also, what are the correct spoke lengths for this wheelset? I need to change some of the rear wheel spokes on the drive and non-drive side.

    Please help. thanks!
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    Quote Originally Posted by defraz View Post
    Hi, great thread very informative!

    I have a Roval Traversee AL from 2010, the red one, similar to those (same MY).
    Roval Traverse EL Wheelset - Preview - Pinkbike

    Are the spoke length of the rear wheel the same as 2011 like you posted before (268 and 271mm) or different? From my information the EL used triple gauged 2-1.7-1.8 and AL used double gauged 2-2.8-2 spokes.

    Furthermore, the rear hub has some play and doing strange noises, i made this rebuild but with no great effect, i should sostitute it i think after 4 years and hopefully upgrade to a ratchet one, is it avaiable as a spare parts or should you advice me about a possible sostitution?

    Thank you and greetings from Italy
    Defraz- yes, your spokes would be double butted as you say (we used DT Competition for those wheels), and lengths for Traverse AL wheels in 2010 were: Front Drive side: 249mm, Non drive side: 267mm. Rear Drive/Non drive side were 275mm.

    It's hard for me to speculate on what is making noise in your hub, did you replace all the bearings? We don't offer the hub as a service part, so you wouldn't be able to order it. Might be worth giving Specialized Italy a call to see what can be done about your hub, or it might be worth looking at a new set of wheels with star ratchets?

  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mazukea View Post
    Hey Roval Joe,

    I need to change the front wheel bearings on my 2012 Control Trail SL 29 142+ wheels. I thought I needed the 6704 bearings, but I've been reading that it might be 6804.

    Also, what are the correct spoke lengths for this wheelset? I need to change some of the rear wheel spokes on the drive and non-drive side.

    Please help. thanks!
    Hi Mazukea, In the first few pages of this thread I posted a complete look up chart which would show spoke lengths for your wheels, as well as a bearing look up. take a look at that, and if you have trouble finding any of the information you're looking for, let me know.

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    Hi Roval Joe, thank you very much for your response. Yes i know it's almost impossible to speculate about a hub at distance... just wondering about the possibility to replace it. I will contact Specialized Italy just in case.

  36. #436
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    Thanks. I'm still confused on the bearing info. 6704 seems to be the bearing most people were using. But now I'm seeing 6902 and 6802. I guess I can just go and borrow a caliper to figure out which bearing I have in my front hub. The 6704 has a 20mm ID and the 6802 and 6902 have 15mm ID. That should be a dead giveaway.
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  37. #437
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    okay, I figured out my bearing size. I busted out my caliper and started measuring.

    I have 6804 on one side and 6805 on the other side.
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    Hi Roval Joe. I'm afraid this has been asked numerous times, but here goes anyway: Will the new Roval Control 2014 (142+) fit my Niner Jet9RDO (142)?
    My LBS says it will but on the Speci website it clearly states it's not compatible. Can you please give me your thoughts please?

    Also I'm wondering what would be the best deal. I'm getting a discount from my LBS on the 2013 SL Wheels to 1200€. This is the same price as the 2014 Control version. Any advice?



    Thanks a lot!!
    Last edited by Elbaceever; 02-21-2014 at 03:14 AM.

  39. #439
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    Roval Joe: can you recommend an aftermarket rear QR 142 x 12 mm thru axle for the '14 Roval wheel?

    Secondly - can I just say I've had very poor experience with your OEM 2Bliss tape. Despite number of attempts, including using a bottle of Stans sealant in the process, your OEM 2Bliss tape and OEM valves that came installed on my '14 Roval wheels weren't properly wrapped on the rim. There was a slightly looseness and was able to pry off the tape with ease. This is not reassuring or tubeless safe. As a solution, I switched to Stans tape & valves which has since held air with no issues. Are you able to comment on this?

  40. #440
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    Roval questions?

    Mine worked great. One of my four wheels had a crease in the strip from being folded under the tube so I taped that one. Otherwise they rock. Simple and effective though I think there is a[n irrelevant] weight penalty v. The Stan's tape.
    -G


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  41. #441
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hatone View Post
    Roval Joe: can you recommend an aftermarket rear QR 142 x 12 mm thru axle for the '14 Roval wheel?

    Secondly - can I just say I've had very poor experience with your OEM 2Bliss tape. Despite number of attempts, including using a bottle of Stans sealant in the process, your OEM 2Bliss tape and OEM valves that came installed on my '14 Roval wheels weren't properly wrapped on the rim. There was a slightly looseness and was able to pry off the tape with ease. This is not reassuring or tubeless safe. As a solution, I switched to Stans tape & valves which has since held air with no issues. Are you able to comment on this?
    Hatone- axle you use will mostly depend on what frame you are using it on. Different frames may be designed for different interfaces (where head of axle interfaces with dropout, on outside of frame), so what axle you use will depend on that. As far as compatibility, our wheels should work fine with any 12mm axle.

    regarding your tubeless setup- I'm sorry to hear that you're having some issues here. So we are talking about the same thing, you mean that you had problems with the actual rim "strip", which is what the wheel comes with, a plastic 1 piece hoop if you will, as opposed to "tape", which comes on a roll with adhesive backing and you apply to the rim. My comment would be that it's impossible for me to evaluate what happened without actually seeing the wheel, but I have not heard of a lot of problems with these, and most people have told me that it makes it easy enough to seat/seal with a floor pump. Occasionally I do get a comment like fire_strom mentions above, about one of the strips being creased because it was installed improperly with a tube and then when inflated, the tube creases the strip. This is something we hear about on our OE spec and comes like that from the factory, and is discovered when the customer goes to set up their bike as tubeless. If this is what happened to you, you could have saved some money by going back to the shop you purchased it from and having them warranty the strip so you had one that worked right. However, fire_strom also brings up a good point about the strip. They are very convenient, but they are not as light as Stan's tape. We originally sold wheels with tape, but got so many complaints about the tape shifting over time, or not being reusable, that we decided to go the rim strips. For riders concerned with every gram (and rightfully so, as this is the most crucial place to save weight on your bike), and have the patience to deal with tape, you can definitely save a little weight.

  42. #442
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    Roval questions?

    Quote Originally Posted by fire_strom View Post
    Mine worked great. One of my four wheels had a crease in the strip from being folded under the tube so I taped that one. Otherwise they rock. Simple and effective though I think there is a[n irrelevant] weight penalty v. The Stan's tape.
    -G


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    Same happened to one of my wheels where the tan rimstrip was creased somehow. Instead of attempting to straighten it out and use it, I simply removed it and put in 1 layer of a Gorilla tape. I will say that the (gorilla) taped wheel aired up better for some reason.
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  43. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hatone- axle you use will mostly depend on what frame you are using it on. Different frames may be designed for different interfaces (where head of axle interfaces with dropout, on outside of frame), so what axle you use will depend on that. As far as compatibility, our wheels should work fine with any 12mm axle.

    regarding your tubeless setup- I'm sorry to hear that you're having some issues here. So we are talking about the same thing, you mean that you had problems with the actual rim "strip", which is what the wheel comes with, a plastic 1 piece hoop if you will, as opposed to "tape", which comes on a roll with adhesive backing and you apply to the rim. My comment would be that it's impossible for me to evaluate what happened without actually seeing the wheel, but I have not heard of a lot of problems with these, and most people have told me that it makes it easy enough to seat/seal with a floor pump. Occasionally I do get a comment like fire_strom mentions above, about one of the strips being creased because it was installed improperly with a tube and then when inflated, the tube creases the strip. This is something we hear about on our OE spec and comes like that from the factory, and is discovered when the customer goes to set up their bike as tubeless. If this is what happened to you, you could have saved some money by going back to the shop you purchased it from and having them warranty the strip so you had one that worked right. However, fire_strom also brings up a good point about the strip. They are very convenient, but they are not as light as Stan's tape. We originally sold wheels with tape, but got so many complaints about the tape shifting over time, or not being reusable, that we decided to go the rim strips. For riders concerned with every gram (and rightfully so, as this is the most crucial place to save weight on your bike), and have the patience to deal with tape, you can definitely save a little weight.
    Thanks for taking the time to respond, Joe.

    To answer the first question regarding QR, the frame is a '14 Epic Expert WC. With this in mind, can you offer guidance which aftermarket QRs 12 mm (Syntace axle yes?) fit?

    When I evaluated your 2Bliss tape, I was left wondering three things:


    • A tubeless tape with a non-adhesive backing means it is susceptible to creasing. Therein lies the problem. Does that not concern you, having been reported by others, that the tape is perhaps, not as reliable as you think? Is it much trouble for those at the factory to install an adhesive backing tape? This would practically eliminate the creasing altogether, plus save a little rotational weight in the process (added bonus)
    • Specialized's tubeless valves. You only have to look at Stan's tubeless valves to soon realise what is wrong with Spec's valves. The rubber block around the valve sits too far and flat in the gutter of the rim, when actually you want the valve to sit as squarely and as far in the valve stem hole as possible. Plus the tyre bead is prone to sitting on the top of the rubber seal, not around it like Stans's as it sits taller.
    • Does your Specialized World Cup XC race team actually run the stock OEM above set up?


    The above seems to highlight why I had such trouble with your tubeless set up. I'm aware some have had better success than me, perhaps lucky, but I personally would look at using what actually works (i.e. Stans's set up).

  44. #444
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hatone View Post
    Thanks for taking the time to respond, Joe.

    To answer the first question regarding QR, the frame is a '14 Epic Expert WC. With this in mind, can you offer guidance which aftermarket QRs 12 mm (Syntace axle yes?) fit?

    When I evaluated your 2Bliss tape, I was left wondering three things:


    • A tubeless tape with a non-adhesive backing means it is susceptible to creasing. Therein lies the problem. Does that not concern you, having been reported by others, that the tape is perhaps, not as reliable as you think? Is it much trouble for those at the factory to install an adhesive backing tape? This would practically eliminate the creasing altogether, plus save a little rotational weight in the process (added bonus)
    • Specialized's tubeless valves. You only have to look at Stan's tubeless valves to soon realise what is wrong with Spec's valves. The rubber block around the valve sits too far and flat in the gutter of the rim, when actually you want the valve to sit as squarely and as far in the valve stem hole as possible. Plus the tyre bead is prone to sitting on the top of the rubber seal, not around it like Stans's as it sits taller.
    • Does your Specialized World Cup XC race team actually run the stock OEM above set up?


    The above seems to highlight why I had such trouble with your tubeless set up. I'm aware some have had better success than me, perhaps lucky, but I personally would look at using what actually works (i.e. Stans's set up).
    Hi Hatone,
    for Specialized bike questions, head on over to:
    Specialized MTB Questions?

    We have another guy like me that takes on all the mtn bike related questions, and it keeps things nice and simple if we stick to Roval/wheel items here.

    regarding your points on tubeless systems- unfortunately there is not a perfect system out there. Like I mentioned before, we started with tape and ran it for a number of years, and I personally got WAY more complaints about tape than I have about our rim strips in the 2 years we've had it. I imagine if you were faced with the same dilemma, you'd probably choose what made the most people happy. Having said that, anyone else reading this who has had experience with our rim strips (the bronze colored strips with Roval 2bliss logos on them, not the blue tape we had a few years ago), I invite you to chime in with your experience, good or bad. The majority of feedback I get is from shop owners/mechanics, and this thread is a great way for me to get feedback from the end user. Thanks in advance your feedback.

    Is our factory team using this setup? Yes (our rim strips/our valves), and not because we make them. The mechanics like the functionality, and the riders don't have issues with them. To be totally honest, I was surprised to hear this (after reading your question I talked to one of the team mechanics to find out), because of the weight difference. However, our mechanics said that when you are constantly changing tires due to changing course conditions, installing race day tires etc, our strips actually hold up better than tape, and is more reliable. They did say that at national championships last year, Todd Wells had them use tape on race day to save every ounce, but according to them, this was the only race.

  45. #445
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    Roval three cross rear wheel

    Hi Roval Joe
    I've noticed most all Rover rear wheels are three cross but where the spoke crosses another spoke they don't touch. (inner outer are not interlaced)
    Most all other brands three cross, always interlace the spokes and where they cross they touch.
    Why Are Roval wheels built this way? what are the advantages and disadvantages and why does the rest of the bicycle industry always interlace The spokes where they cross so they touch?

    Any light you can shed on this would be greatly appreciated.

  46. #446
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    Roval questions?

    Quote Originally Posted by Hatone View Post
    Thanks
    It sounds like you might be better off having a shop change tires for you.
    G


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  47. #447
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    So I am confused. I want to throw Specialized into the mix as I get ready to purchase some carbon wheels but it looks like the ROVALCONTROL SL 29 isn't really available yet or...I don't understand the Specialized website.

    Someone help me out here.

  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Foot View Post
    Hi Roval Joe
    I've noticed most all Rover rear wheels are three cross but where the spoke crosses another spoke they don't touch. (inner outer are not interlaced)
    Most all other brands three cross, always interlace the spokes and where they cross they touch.
    Why Are Roval wheels built this way? what are the advantages and disadvantages and why does the rest of the bicycle industry always interlace The spokes where they cross so they touch?

    Any light you can shed on this would be greatly appreciated.
    Big Foot- that's a great question! So there are a few reasons for this. With a standard J bend hub, it is easy to cross the spokes because of the way the head sits in the flange, crossing the spokes does not change much in the way of the angle of the head in the flange. If you notice on a Roval straight pull flange, the spokes sit side by side rather than in the same plane, so when we originally designed the wheels, we were worried that bending the spokes enough to cross would make the angle at which the head sits in the tab (or flange) crooked, and we were worried about having failure in the head. There was no measurable difference in side to side stiffness tests whether we crossed the spokes or not, so we went without crossing/touching them. We are not the only ones who do this, SRAM is another manufacturer that does this, and there are others also.

    hope this helps, and I realize it's hard to explain without looking and pointing to the hub so if this doesn't make sense, let me know and i'll try to describe better.

  49. #449
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    Hi Joe,
    I just bought a set of Roval Control Carbon 29er wheels from a friend of mine.
    He has misplaced the rear hub 12x142 end caps. Can I buy them from a Specialized dealer? Or would this be through DT Swiss? I think the DT Part # would be HWGXXX0002193C, if I am not mistaken.
    Could you please verify? If the Specialized dealer would have them, is it a different part number?
    Thank you!!
    Scott

  50. #450
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    Quote Originally Posted by dctiscty View Post
    Hi Joe,
    I just bought a set of Roval Control Carbon 29er wheels from a friend of mine.
    He has misplaced the rear hub 12x142 end caps. Can I buy them from a Specialized dealer? Or would this be through DT Swiss? I think the DT Part # would be HWGXXX0002193C, if I am not mistaken.
    Could you please verify? If the Specialized dealer would have them, is it a different part number?
    Thank you!!
    Scott
    Scott- you can get this directly from DT, and yes, you have the right Part number.

  51. #451
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    Thanks that's very helpful

  52. #452
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    On the rim strips - I've been rolling a set of Control SL 29's for a year now (1400 miles and several races) and have had no problems at all with them. All my tires have inflated relatively easily (I do have a compressor though) and have never had a tire failure/loss of air on a ride. They have worked great for me.

  53. #453
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtdan View Post
    On the rim strips - I've been rolling a set of Control SL 29's for a year now (1400 miles and several races) and have had no problems at all with them. All my tires have inflated relatively easily (I do have a compressor though) and have never had a tire failure/loss of air on a ride. They have worked great for me.
    Thanks for the feedback dirtdan!

  54. #454
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    After changing the fork on my 2014 Camber from a RockShox 30 Gold to a RockShox Reba I'm sitting with a problem. The old fork uses a 9mm QR and the Reba uses a 15mm thru-axle.

    On the Spesialized site they list the following specs for the Camber Comp I've got

    FRONT HUB
    Specialized Hi Lo disc, sealed cartridge bearings, 15mm thru-axle, 32h

    Is there a easy/simple way to convert the hub so that the new axle will fit either by installing new end caps or must I fit a new hub. The wheels are still the factory default Roval 29 alloy wheels.

    Thanks

  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by janfromnam View Post
    After changing the fork on my 2014 Camber from a RockShox 30 Gold to a RockShox Reba I'm sitting with a problem. The old fork uses a 9mm QR and the Reba uses a 15mm thru-axle.

    On the Spesialized site they list the following specs for the Camber Comp I've got

    FRONT HUB
    Specialized Hi Lo disc, sealed cartridge bearings, 15mm thru-axle, 32h

    Is there a easy/simple way to convert the hub so that the new axle will fit either by installing new end caps or must I fit a new hub. The wheels are still the factory default Roval 29 alloy wheels.

    Thanks
    janfromnam- unfortunately you'll need to get a new hub or wheel. This hub is not convertible.

  56. #456
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    Hello

    I've got the Carbon Control 29 from a 2013 Epic Marathon. I will need a full set of bearings soon for spares. (Got several long stage races this year) What bearings are used front and back and where can I find a manual with his in?

    Thanks

  57. #457
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    LFM07_hub_tech_page.pdf[QUOTE=bobgfish;11040318]Hello

    bobgfish- have a look at the attached tech page for front hub bearing info. For the rear hubs, you'll need qty 2 bearing number 6902 (DT PN: HSBXXX00N1468S) and qty 2 bearing number 6802 (DT PN: HSBXXX00N1244S).

    You can have your local dealer order the bearings through Specialized for both.

  58. #458
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    Thanks. You can't also tell me the spoke lengths can you and how many of each is used? Got a bunch of spares just in case a while back and gave a few away in an event last year (traded a beer per spoke) I need a few more spares for a just in case moment.

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobgfish View Post
    Thanks. You can't also tell me the spoke lengths can you and how many of each is used? Got a bunch of spares just in case a while back and gave a few away in an event last year (traded a beer per spoke) I need a few more spares for a just in case moment.
    http://service.specialized.com/asc/C...ice-kit-rA.pdf

    No problem. Have a look at the link above for all the tech info you'll need.

  60. #460
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    Wow, this thread is awesome. Kudos to you Joe and the Big S.

    Question for you... Currently riding 29er 1,400gm Aluminum Stan's wheels here in the midwest.
    They're my race/daily driver wheelset. At 140lbs. I've had no issues with them going out of true, etc.

    I'm now moving to the Pacific Northwest and looking to upgrade to the Specialized Roval Control SL wheels for the added strength, stiffness and more impact resistance (no bead hook was main selling point) than my feathery week aluminum wheels. My concern is that the Control SL's will be flexy/not up to the task of west coast 'trail' riding. I plan to do some XC racing and 'trail' riding on them as daily wheels. I won't be doing massive drops, but I'm surely I'll be testing them a bit on the downhills out there. At my 140lb. weight do you think I'll be OK with the Control SLs? I really don't want to 'downgrade' to the Controls as I thrive on racing on these ultralight wheels and if I'm going to drop Carbon wheel $$ I want to make sure I can use them for racing and trail riding.
    Thanks for the feedback!

  61. #461
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    I have the 2013 roval control 29 carbons, currently set up 9mm qr. Can I get 9mm thru end caps for this wheel.

  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtRacer1 View Post
    Wow, this thread is awesome. Kudos to you Joe and the Big S.

    Question for you... Currently riding 29er 1,400gm Aluminum Stan's wheels here in the midwest.
    They're my race/daily driver wheelset. At 140lbs. I've had no issues with them going out of true, etc.

    I'm now moving to the Pacific Northwest and looking to upgrade to the Specialized Roval Control SL wheels for the added strength, stiffness and more impact resistance (no bead hook was main selling point) than my feathery week aluminum wheels. My concern is that the Control SL's will be flexy/not up to the task of west coast 'trail' riding. I plan to do some XC racing and 'trail' riding on them as daily wheels. I won't be doing massive drops, but I'm surely I'll be testing them a bit on the downhills out there. At my 140lb. weight do you think I'll be OK with the Control SLs? I really don't want to 'downgrade' to the Controls as I thrive on racing on these ultralight wheels and if I'm going to drop Carbon wheel $$ I want to make sure I can use them for racing and trail riding.
    Thanks for the feedback!
    DirtRacer1- Glad you like the thread! Ok, so I'm assuming you are riding the ZTR Race Gold wheels? based on you riding those wheels and having zero issues, plus your body weight, I think you'll be perfectly happy with the Control SL's. They will be much more impact resistant than what you are riding currently, as well as stiffer. You shouldn't have problems trail riding with them, and you'll be happy with the weight as well.

  63. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by clk View Post
    I have the 2013 roval control 29 carbons, currently set up 9mm qr. Can I get 9mm thru end caps for this wheel.
    clk- sorry, we don't make a 9mm QR end cap for this wheel.

  64. #464
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    Hi Joe,

    You really give some good guidance tips!
    I wanted to ask you, i have the roval traverse sl carbon 26 wheelset on my 2013 sworks enduro and i want to swap my fork fox 34 160 talas with a 36 fox! I understant that the 36 has 20mm axle whereas the 34 comes with 15 mm axle. Would i need any adaptors to fit my new 36 fork on the bike with the traverse sl?

    Thanks!

  65. #465
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stormrider85 View Post
    Hi Joe,

    You really give some good guidance tips!
    I wanted to ask you, i have the roval traverse sl carbon 26 wheelset on my 2013 sworks enduro and i want to swap my fork fox 34 160 talas with a 36 fox! I understant that the 36 has 20mm axle whereas the 34 comes with 15 mm axle. Would i need any adaptors to fit my new 36 fork on the bike with the traverse sl?

    Thanks!
    Stormrider85- just trying to help people out. With how many product choices there are in the market these days, it can make you delirious trying to keep up! ok, so for your wheelset, you'll need our 20mm end caps for your front hub. You can order this through any Specialized dealer, the part number for these caps is S125900003. Let me know if you have any other questions.

  66. #466
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    Roval Joe,

    I am building up a Stumpjumper FSR Expert Carbon Evo 29er and am looking buy some super strong durable wheels for it. I live in the midwest and mainly race a stumpjumper HT and I already have some lightweight 2012 Roval Control SL 29ers that I can put on the FSR for racing. The Stumpy FSR will be used for longer marathon style races, possibly some enduro's and sweet trips to places like Moab, Fruita, Sedona, etc... and possibly even a bike park or two. I am 5'10 weigh about 170 and am pretty good at finesseing a bike through the gnar, so I am not too rough on my wheels.

    I am looking at the Roval Control Carbon 29 vs. the Roval Traverse SL 29. Whats the big difference (besides spoke type and front hub size/end cap compatibility)? Is there a big difference in the rim durability? I see internal width is the same between the two, but the traverse is an extra mil wider externally. Is there a difference in depth of the rim? Is the Traverse that much beefier? Like ENVE DH beefie? Are the Traverse worth the weight penalty for the extra durability? What are you thoughts/recommendations. Thanks!

  67. #467
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    Quote Originally Posted by StolltheMusic View Post
    Roval Joe,

    I am building up a Stumpjumper FSR Expert Carbon Evo 29er and am looking buy some super strong durable wheels for it. I live in the midwest and mainly race a stumpjumper HT and I already have some lightweight 2012 Roval Control SL 29ers that I can put on the FSR for racing. The Stumpy FSR will be used for longer marathon style races, possibly some enduro's and sweet trips to places like Moab, Fruita, Sedona, etc... and possibly even a bike park or two. I am 5'10 weigh about 170 and am pretty good at finesseing a bike through the gnar, so I am not too rough on my wheels.

    I am looking at the Roval Control Carbon 29 vs. the Roval Traverse SL 29. Whats the big difference (besides spoke type and front hub size/end cap compatibility)? Is there a big difference in the rim durability? I see internal width is the same between the two, but the traverse is an extra mil wider externally. Is there a difference in depth of the rim? Is the Traverse that much beefier? Like ENVE DH beefie? Are the Traverse worth the weight penalty for the extra durability? What are you thoughts/recommendations. Thanks!
    StoltheMusic- Control Carbon and Traverse SL rims have the same dimensions. They actually come out of the same mold, but are different material and different layups. The extra durability of Traverse is definitely nice to have if you are hard on wheels and regularly ride in rocky/rooty areas. That being said, it does not seem like you will have a problem with the Control Carbon's based on your description, and most of the riding you're doing will be really nice to have the extra weight savings. If you are going to ride an area where there are tons of rocks and you are worried about dinging your rims, you can run a bit thicker casing tire, like our Grid casing, and that will help protect the rims. hope this helps!

  68. #468
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    Roval questions?

    Hi Joe,

    Just a quick question about roval control 29s. I'm about 200 lbs all geared up and was curious if this was too heavy for the wheel. I a stump jumper Evo with the traverse 29s and hi/LO hubs. I ride in Ohio and we have a fair amount of roots but just do XC riding and racing.


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  69. #469
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoomyster View Post
    Hi Joe,

    Just a quick question about roval control 29s. I'm about 200 lbs all geared up and was curious if this was too heavy for the wheel. I a stump jumper Evo with the traverse 29s and hi/LO hubs. I ride in Ohio and we have a fair amount of roots but just do XC riding and racing.


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    Hoomyster- I presume you have not had any issues with your Traverse Alloy wheels? and you are referring to the Control alloy wheels, or the Control carbon wheels? please clarify and I can provide more info. thanks.

  70. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hoomyster- I presume you have not had any issues with your Traverse Alloy wheels? and you are referring to the Control alloy wheels, or the Control carbon wheels? please clarify and I can provide more info. thanks.
    Thanks for the quick reply and sorry for the lack of clarification. Nothing major with the Traverses, just a creased rim strip. I'm referring to the alloys and not the carbons.

  71. #471
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoomyster View Post
    Thanks for the quick reply and sorry for the lack of clarification. Nothing major with the Traverses, just a creased rim strip. I'm referring to the alloys and not the carbons.
    Hoomyster- got it. You would probably have no problems with the Control alloys, but something to consider is that you are reducing the rim width significantly, which may or may not change some things for you. If you run lower pressures and are carving turns at a higher rate of speed, the narrower rims might allow the tire casing to squirm (lighter casing tire = more squirming, heaver casing tire = less squirm). However, since you are in Ohio, I'm thinking this may not be an issue since there are probably few sustained descents. I've talked to some riders back east who ride super rocky trails that are very tight and because they do not pick up much speed on these trails, they don't put a lot of side load on the tires. These guys are getting away with super low tire pressures, and enjoying more traction/suppleness. Since the Control alloys are a lot lighter than your Traverse wheels, you'll enjoy being able to accelerate them a lot quicker and shed some overall weight off your bike.

    If you are serious about getting a new set of wheels, see if your dealer will let you demo a set so you can get a feel for what you're getting into.

    hope this helps.

  72. #472
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    I usually roll with around 27-30 psi and, you're right, I think the longest downhill in my neck of the woods would be roughly 5 min. Thanks for the input. I appreciate it!

  73. #473
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    Hey Joe-

    Considering the Control Carbon 29 vs. the Traverse SL Carbon 29 as an upgrade on a new Camber Evo. I ride in Santa Cruz, mainly Demo, UCSC, Skeggs and surrounding trails. Can I get away with the Controls or would you recommend the beefier Traverse? Roughly 5'10" and 175. Thx!

  74. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by thanft View Post
    Hey Joe-

    Considering the Control Carbon 29 vs. the Traverse SL Carbon 29 as an upgrade on a new Camber Evo. I ride in Santa Cruz, mainly Demo, UCSC, Skeggs and surrounding trails. Can I get away with the Controls or would you recommend the beefier Traverse? Roughly 5'10" and 175. Thx!
    thanft- you are in my neck of the woods! Having ridden a bunch in all those same areas, I can confidently say you'll be fine on the Control Carbons. Get out and enjoy the trails before they dry up again!

  75. #475
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    Thanks man! Figured you would know those trails. I should mention that I do like to hit some of the jumps/drops at Demo and take an occasional trip to Downieville/Tahoe. Still ok to run the Controls?

  76. #476
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    Quote Originally Posted by thanft View Post
    Thanks man! Figured you would know those trails. I should mention that I do like to hit some of the jumps/drops at Demo and take an occasional trip to Downieville/Tahoe. Still ok to run the Controls?
    You'll have no problems at Demo. At a place like Tahoe/Downieville, you'll likely have no problems either. The only thing that I would caution against is running a lightweight tire casing there. Reason being is that I've seen where people running at a high rate of speed on a long rocky straight, and happen to have a puncture, and take awhile to get stopped. in the process of slowing down, they end up pinging some rocks with their flat tires, and that can cause some damage. Mostly just in the rear though. if you were running a Grid casing or something similar in the rear (in really rock areas only- bay area is no problem)you'd be fine. Make sense?

  77. #477
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    Yup, makes total sense! I'll go w/ the Control Carbons. Thanks very much for the feedback... you saved me some $$

    Curious, why does Specialized market the Control Carbons as an XC/Race wheel if they can withstand the abuse you'd typically associate with (at the least) a "Trail" wheelset? From reading through the forum posts, it sounds as though they are cut from the same mold as the Traverse but just have a different layup, a lighter spoke and a heavier hub? What type of impact would a Traverse be able to withstand that a Control wouldn't?

  78. #478
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    Quote Originally Posted by thanft View Post
    Yup, makes total sense! I'll go w/ the Control Carbons. Thanks very much for the feedback... you saved me some $$

    Curious, why does Specialized market the Control Carbons as an XC/Race wheel if they can withstand the abuse you'd typically associate with (at the least) a "Trail" wheelset? From reading through the forum posts, it sounds as though they are cut from the same mold as the Traverse but just have a different layup, a lighter spoke and a heavier hub? What type of impact would a Traverse be able to withstand that a Control wouldn't?
    Thanft- you bring up an excellent point. When we designed the Control Carbon wheels, the intent was to build a light, affordable, and durable XC wheelset. At the time this project started, some customers were complaining about our carbon rims with bead hooks breaking too easily from impacts, so we wanted to make sure wheel durability was not going to be an issue. Now that the wheels have been in the market for a few years, and we've seen hardly any issues with them, we're realizing they are actually fine for most trail riding as well.

    On the Traverse SL's, they come from the same mold as the Control Carbon rims, however, because of the different layup and different materials used, the impact resistance is even higher than the Control Carbon's. The rim itself is stiffer, and since we're using thicker spokes, the overall wheel is considerably stiffer than the Controls also. What type of impact would the Traverse be able to survive that a Control wouldn't? that's a very hard question to answer without taking you through our impact test, which is not something we really share. I don't have a good example like "a 200lb rider traveling at 25miles an hour on a hardtail bike with a Grid casing tire inflated to 25 psi and hitting a square edge granite rock without lifting up" to give.

  79. #479
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    Thanks for all the replies - super helpful... So is it safe to assume that the Control Carbons will have a higher impact resistance and be considerably stiffer when compared to the Traverse alloy that come stock on the Camber Evo Expert?

  80. #480
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    Quote Originally Posted by thanft View Post
    Thanks for all the replies - super helpful... So is it safe to assume that the Control Carbons will have a higher impact resistance and be considerably stiffer when compared to the Traverse alloy that come stock on the Camber Evo Expert?
    no worries- yes, the control carbon's will have higher impact resistance than the alloy wheels that came on your bike. Alloy rims generally will bend much sooner than a carbon rim will crack. This is a very general statement of course, but as a rule of thumb.

  81. #481
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    Great, thanks again for all the help!

  82. #482
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    Hello,

    I have a 2012 Epic Expert Carbon 29 with the Roval Control 29 wheelset.

    Now I would like to convert the front wheel to 15mm.
    Which is the part number for the end caps I need?

    Many thanks in advance!

  83. #483
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    Has anyone here replaced their aluminum roval control 29 rims with crests? I'm thinking of re-lacing mine to drop some weight and gain some width. Mine are the 19mm internal width rims. Obviously I'd like to reuse the spokes but I do plan on buying new nipples. The spokes are DT Swiss Supercomp 15g so I would need 12mm by 1.8 nipples right ? Thanks in advance.
    Last edited by serious1; 03-16-2014 at 02:39 PM.

  84. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by bart_simpson View Post
    hello,

    i have a 2012 epic expert carbon 29 with the roval control 29 wheelset.

    Now i would like to convert the front wheel to 15mm.
    Which is the part number for the end caps i need?

    Many thanks in advance!
    s125900010

  85. #485
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    Hi,
    I have just purchased a set of Roval Control 29 Carbon wheels for my 2013 Epic.
    My epic originally came with a 9mm thrubolt and I would like to keep this on the bike, as I like it better then the 5mm quick release that came with the wheels.

    Are there end caps available for this wheelset to be converted to 9mm front?

    If so how and where can I get them?

    Thanks!

  86. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tyrich88 View Post
    Hi,
    I have just purchased a set of Roval Control 29 Carbon wheels for my 2013 Epic.
    My epic originally came with a 9mm thrubolt and I would like to keep this on the bike, as I like it better then the 5mm quick release that came with the wheels.

    Are there end caps available for this wheelset to be converted to 9mm front?

    If so how and where can I get them?

    Thanks!
    Sorry, Tyrich88, we do not make 9mm end caps for any Roval wheelsets.

  87. #487
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    He may be talking about the OS24 axle thing...

  88. #488
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    He is talking about the DT Swiss 9mm RWS. There are no Roval caps fit it, but you can have a machine shop make them using the OS24 (fox forks) or OS28 (rockshox) endcaps.
    Its what I did when I upgraded my wheels but didnt want to change out the QR fork.
    14 Aurum, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  89. #489
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    Tyrich88, maybe one of the eBay adapters discussed in this thread could work? I'm picturing your Rovals setup for 15mm TA, then using the 15mm TA to 9mm thrubolt adapter.
    Really??! Can't convert Shimano hub 15mm thru axle to 9mm QR?

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  90. #490
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    Yall should really look into that. I feel like the thrubolt would be a lot more preferred than a standard Quick Release.

    Roval Joe, Do you see the ebay adapters that ewarnerusa is talking about as being a good solution?

  91. #491
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    BTW ewarnerusa, thanks for the tip! I am going to take a look at them now!

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    Roval questions?

    That's weird that roval does not have a OS24 hardware. I have traverses with the OS24 front axle and am considering controls. I would much prefer to keep the OS24 setup. I'm excited to see what the solution ends up being here.


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  93. #493
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    I use one of the adapters to use a Shimano 15mm TA hub with a traditional 9mm QR (5mm shaft) and it works great. If I recall, the machined adapter is a bit hefty which may be a negative if you're pursuing Roval control carbons.

    Sent from my SCH-I435 using Tapatalk

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    Hi Joe,

    I have the 2014 Control SL 29 142+ wheels and I want to use them with a 2013 Rockshox with quick release.
    So, I need the Front Hub: 28mm QR end cap ('Rock Shox').

    The part number for that is: S125900007.
    Unfortunately, my (Canadian) LBS was told that the part will not be available for a while (2-3 months).

    Can you tell me where I can buy one from the US?
    Or does anybody was just purchase the 2014 Roval control wheels and would like to sell their end cap for the Front Hub: 28mm QR end cap (Rockshox)?


    Thanks

  95. #495
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    Hi Roval Joe,

    I have the 2014 Control SL 29 142+ wheels and I want to use them with a 2013 Rockshox with quick release.
    So, I need the Front Hub: 28mm QR end cap ('Rock Shox').

    The part number for that is: S125900007.
    Unfortunately, my (Canadian) LBS was told that the part will not be available for a while (2-3 months).

    Can you tell me where I can buy one from the US?
    Or does anybody was just purchase the 2014 Roval control wheels and would like to sell their end cap for the Front Hub: 28mm QR end cap (Rockshox)?


    Thanks

  96. #496
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    Hey Everyone,
    whoa, the 9mm QR thing really blew up on here in the past day or so! just to clear things up:
    - we do offer 24mm OS end caps for our wheels, which use a standard 5mm QR axle.
    - we do not make any size end caps that use a 9mm QR axle. Reason being is that most fork manufacturers are going to 15mm thru, and it seems to be very popular, and it's what I get the most requests for.

    Regarding the Ebay adaptor, that would add a lot of weight, when you could just get the standard 5mm OS (24mm) end caps for our wheels. Please refer to the service manual link I posted in the last few weeks, all the info is in there. If you have trouble finding something, let me know and I'll help as best I can.

    thanks.

  97. #497
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    Quote Originally Posted by pseguin View Post
    Hi Roval Joe,

    I have the 2014 Control SL 29 142+ wheels and I want to use them with a 2013 Rockshox with quick release.
    So, I need the Front Hub: 28mm QR end cap ('Rock Shox').

    The part number for that is: S125900007.
    Unfortunately, my (Canadian) LBS was told that the part will not be available for a while (2-3 months).

    Can you tell me where I can buy one from the US?
    Or does anybody was just purchase the 2014 Roval control wheels and would like to sell their end cap for the Front Hub: 28mm QR end cap (Rockshox)?


    Thanks
    pseguin- We are not set up as a consumer direct sales organization, but you could try calling our USA service center (801) 886-2453 and see if they could help get you sorted? The other option would be to visit a USA dealer if you happen to live closer to the border, they might be able to order you one sooner? Sorry for the inconvenience!

  98. #498
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    Hello to all,

    I have a 2012 set of Control 29 SL and am looking for a set of 28mm end caps to replace the 24mm ones currently on the wheel. I have a Rock Shox fork with standard QR so I am looking for the Rock Shox marked caps. I see lots of guys upgrading to larger axles and am hoping that someone might be willing to part with the caps that come off. I have been told that Specialized will have them back in stock in August or September! If anyone has a set they would like to sell please drop me a line.

    Thanks and keep up the good work Joe!

  99. #499
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    Hi Joe. I just bought a new 2013 29er Epic Marathon that came with the Roval Control Carbon wheels. First off, let me say I love these wheels! I'm very impressed so far. A couple questions;

    1) The 2013 Epic Marathon has QR front, and the 2014 has Through-Axle front. Is the OS28 as stiff as a through axle on the 2014? I read somewhere that Specialized said the OS28 was stiffer than some Maxle setups.
    2) Secondly, my rear wheel is 142+, but it looks like the aftermarket wheel-set you sell does not come that way. Is the 142+ only an OE offering and are there other differences between OE wheels and the ones you sell? In your experience, is the 142+ really stiffer?
    3) I am 6'2" and weigh 220. Am I safe as far as my weight goes with this wheel.
    4) As far as strength goes, is the Control Carbon 29 stronger than the Control SL 29? The reason I ask is both are rated for riders up to 240 lbs, but it sounds like there is a perception the Control is a bit stronger than the SL.

    Thank you so much for your responses and this thread in general. Clearly, there is a TON on interest in the Control Carbon 29 wheel, and for good reason.

  100. #500
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highvactech View Post
    Hello to all,

    I have a 2012 set of Control 29 SL and am looking for a set of 28mm end caps to replace the 24mm ones currently on the wheel. I have a Rock Shox fork with standard QR so I am looking for the Rock Shox marked caps. I see lots of guys upgrading to larger axles and am hoping that someone might be willing to part with the caps that come off. I have been told that Specialized will have them back in stock in August or September! If anyone has a set they would like to sell please drop me a line.

    Thanks and keep up the good work Joe!
    Highvactech- I'm showing the PN for these end caps as S125900007, and that we have over 30 available. Is the shop you're dealing with referencing the same PN?

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