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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by mteitsch View Post
    Hi Joe,
    I got in touch with the shop and they happen to have a few 302mm spokes on the shelf that they are sending. BTW the shop did send me some 304mm spokes previously,but they are too long for the non drive side rear wheel. have you heard of this in your travels?. I'm going to try to substitute the 302 (it's only 2mm shorter .080") but I hope it works.
    Thanks again for your assistance.
    Mike T
    I have not heard of this, did you by chance measure them? Because of the dish, the non drive will have to be longer than the drive side, so if your 302mm spokes worked, i'm surprised the 304's are too long?

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by austinTRON View Post
    Hey joe, I have a set of DT 240S hubs. The front hub is 100mm QR hub currently. I really really want to run RWS skewer as I have had some terrible trouble with regular QR skewers, even internal cam ones. Can I use Roval end caps to convert it? That's all I'd need right? If so, can you list the part # for the skewer and end caps?
    AustinTRON- sorry, this won't work. Roval front end caps are different. Have you looked at seeing if DT makes the end caps you need? I'm not sure off the top of my head

  3. #203
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    2014_spoke lookup chart.pdf

    Hi everyone,
    I've had a fair amount of spoke length questions, so I'm posting this easy look up chart in hopes this makes it easier for everyone.

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    AustinTRON- sorry, this won't work. Roval front end caps are different. Have you looked at seeing if DT makes the end caps you need? I'm not sure off the top of my head
    Dang, ok. Neither J&B or QBP have the end caps available. The wheel builder at our shop just finished my wheels today and we looked all over the place for the end caps, There was tons of options for 135 > 142mm converts, XX1 freehubs, 15mm > 20mm converters, star ratchet upgrades, etc. etc. etc. Couldn't find RWS end caps any where. :/
    Nature never said one thing, and wisdom another...

  5. #205
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    Quick question regarding the availability of the 2014 Roval Control Trail SL 29 wheels. I noticed that that wheel is not referenced in the PDF posted a few pages back with regards to spoke specs.

    Is there any sort of expected release date (for purchase)?

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterhoss56 View Post
    Quick question regarding the availability of the 2014 Roval Control Trail SL 29 wheels. I noticed that that wheel is not referenced in the PDF posted a few pages back with regards to spoke specs.

    Is there any sort of expected release date (for purchase)?
    Masterhoss56- the Control Trail SL wheels did not make it in the line for '14. we're only making the 29" version now.

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Masterhoss56- the Control Trail SL wheels did not make it in the line for '14. we're only making the 29" version now.
    Thanks for the reply. I was actually wondering about the availability of the 29" 2014 Control Trail SL wheels. Specialized 2014 Wheels, Tires, Shoes And Helmets - BikeRadar

    I'd like to order these and get them on my bike as soon as they are available.

    EDIT: Nevermind. I completely overlooked what you and the article I linked stated. Thanks for the info.

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterhoss56 View Post
    Thanks for the reply. I was actually wondering about the availability of the 29" 2014 Control Trail SL wheels. Specialized 2014 Wheels, Tires, Shoes And Helmets - BikeRadar

    I'd like to order these and get them on my bike as soon as they are available.
    ah, ok. Those are the Control SL 29, not Trail. These are starting to produce now and should be available to dealers end of September/beginning of October.

  9. #209
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    Hey Roval Joe. One last question. At 170lbs and doing trail rides, should I wait for the Control SL or would the Control Trail SL be the way to go for every day rides? (are the Control Trail SL wheels more durable than the Control SL?)

    No racing, and no all mountain riding.

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterhoss56 View Post
    Hey Roval Joe. One last question. At 170lbs and doing trail rides, should I wait for the Control SL or would the Control Trail SL be the way to go for every day rides? (are the Control Trail SL wheels more durable than the Control SL?)

    No racing, and no all mountain riding.
    Masterhoss, because of the no bead hook design, the new Control SL rim is more resistant to rock strikes. The overall wheel is lighter than the Trial version though, and a bit less stiff. I've been riding trail style rides on my set without any problem (mounted on a Camber) and weigh 160lb. If you're not a wheel destroying kind of rider, this wheelset would probably be fine for the kind of riding you're doing.

  11. #211
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    New question here. Which wheels?

    Hi Joe,

    I'm hoping you can give me some advice on the best wheels for me. I trail ride, nothing extreme at the moment i.e. no drops or jumps and taking everything gently as I've only been riding for a few months and I'm still learning! I will do more adventurous stuff eventually, but not for a while yet. I'll be trading up to a 29er next week and I want the lightest/stiffest wheels I can safely put on it, and I would probably have gone for the Control 29 Carbons but I hesitated because of the weight limit. I'm currently just under the 108kg but would be a bit heavier with camelback etc. I'm losing weight steadily (5kg in the last 2 months) so if that continues in a month or two I'd be well under the weight limit but I don't really want to wait that long (I know, I'm impatient!).

    So would I be taking a risk in going for one of the carbon wheelsets at my current weight? Either way, which wheel (carbon or alloy) do you think would be best for me?

    I need 15mm front hub, 12x142mm rear, and 6-hole rotor mounts, so I'd need to know whether all of that comes with whatever you recommend or would I need any additional adapters.

    Also, if you recommend one of the Traverse wheelsets, I've seen comments that they are not officially for sale here in the UK - is that right? If so I assume you wouldn't advise buying a grey import.

    Sorry this is such a long question, but many thanks for your help!

    Pete

  12. #212
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    Roval Joe, I have a 2008 S-Works FSR Stumpy, but have the wheels off a 2010 S-Works Stumpy FSR. I weigh 225, and ride Trail and AM. They are staying pretty true and I have 850 miles on them. I run a Purgatory 2.3" control tire on the front, a Captain 2.1 Control on the rear. Are these rims wide enough for a 2.3" or am I pushing my luck? If I decide to upgrade to a new wheel at some point, I do not want to add weight. I like the feel of these Control SL rims, but perhaps want something a little stronger, a little wider, without adding weight. Any suggestions? 26" BTW.

    Thanks...

  13. #213
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    Roval Joe,

    I have a set of Roval Traverse EL 26" wheels. Grey and black, red nipples, red hub adapters, and DT 240 rear hub internals. They look just like the ones Pinkbike reviewed here: Roval Traverse EL Wheelset - Preview - Pinkbike

    I am confused as to if they are 2010, or 2011? I broke a rear spoke, do I use the length/part number from your spoke lookup chart for the 2011 Traverse EL?

    Another quick question since I have not removed the tubeless tape yet, are the nipples standard, or hex-head DT pro lock? And will the above spoke part numbers come with a nipple?

    Thanks,
    Steve

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by corsair77 View Post
    Hi Joe,

    I'm hoping you can give me some advice on the best wheels for me. I trail ride, nothing extreme at the moment i.e. no drops or jumps and taking everything gently as I've only been riding for a few months and I'm still learning! I will do more adventurous stuff eventually, but not for a while yet. I'll be trading up to a 29er next week and I want the lightest/stiffest wheels I can safely put on it, and I would probably have gone for the Control 29 Carbons but I hesitated because of the weight limit. I'm currently just under the 108kg but would be a bit heavier with camelback etc. I'm losing weight steadily (5kg in the last 2 months) so if that continues in a month or two I'd be well under the weight limit but I don't really want to wait that long (I know, I'm impatient!).

    So would I be taking a risk in going for one of the carbon wheelsets at my current weight? Either way, which wheel (carbon or alloy) do you think would be best for me?

    I need 15mm front hub, 12x142mm rear, and 6-hole rotor mounts, so I'd need to know whether all of that comes with whatever you recommend or would I need any additional adapters.

    Also, if you recommend one of the Traverse wheelsets, I've seen comments that they are not officially for sale here in the UK - is that right? If so I assume you wouldn't advise buying a grey import.

    Sorry this is such a long question, but many thanks for your help!

    Pete
    Hey Pete,
    thanks for the inquiry! You could go with the Traverse wheels, but I actually think you'll be served better by the Control Carbon wheels. These have proven to be an extremely robust set of wheels for trail riding, and you shouldn't have trouble with the weight limit. They do come with all the end caps needed to set up to your needs, and I think the UK is bringing these in. Hopefully you should be good to go!

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by trmn8er View Post
    Roval Joe, I have a 2008 S-Works FSR Stumpy, but have the wheels off a 2010 S-Works Stumpy FSR. I weigh 225, and ride Trail and AM. They are staying pretty true and I have 850 miles on them. I run a Purgatory 2.3" control tire on the front, a Captain 2.1 Control on the rear. Are these rims wide enough for a 2.3" or am I pushing my luck? If I decide to upgrade to a new wheel at some point, I do not want to add weight. I like the feel of these Control SL rims, but perhaps want something a little stronger, a little wider, without adding weight. Any suggestions? 26" BTW.

    Thanks...
    trmn8er- if you like the feel, then the 2.3 tire is fine to run. The rim is a bit on the narrow side (19mm inner width), but if you are not experiencing tire squirm then I'd continue to run it. That wheelset is pretty darn light, so upgrading in the future to something wider w/out gaining weight will be tough. The only other 26" carbon wheel we offer now is Traverse SL, which are 22mm wide, but they have more spokes, beefier spokes, and bigger front hub.

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by deoreo View Post
    Roval Joe,

    I have a set of Roval Traverse EL 26" wheels. Grey and black, red nipples, red hub adapters, and DT 240 rear hub internals. They look just like the ones Pinkbike reviewed here: Roval Traverse EL Wheelset - Preview - Pinkbike

    I am confused as to if they are 2010, or 2011? I broke a rear spoke, do I use the length/part number from your spoke lookup chart for the 2011 Traverse EL?

    Another quick question since I have not removed the tubeless tape yet, are the nipples standard, or hex-head DT pro lock? And will the above spoke part numbers come with a nipple?

    Thanks,
    Steve
    Hey Steve,
    you can use the spoke PN's from the '11 wheel for yours as well. they should be the same. the spokes are DT hex head prolock, and they do not come with the spoke. PN for the nipple in red is S2027009.

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hey Pete, ... I actually think you'll be served better by the Control Carbon wheels. ... Hopefully you should be good to go!
    That's great, exactly what I was hoping to hear of course! I can't see any dealers actually showing stock of the Control Carbons here in the UK but there are several who show them for sale with delivery times of a few days so I assume they'll be coming from the importer's warehouse somewhere in the UK. I guess I'm about to find out as my order is now in!

    Thanks again for your help Joe, it's always nice to see someone take the time to talk to customers.

  18. #218
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    roval joe, can you tell me the rim ERD on the fusee slx rd wheels, from 2012.

    thanks

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by peabody View Post
    roval joe, can you tell me the rim ERD on the fusee slx rd wheels, from 2012.

    thanks
    Hi Peabody- unfortunately, we don't publish our dimensions for individual wheel components, as they are built/sold as a system, and we don't encourage building them with other components. You can of course take a measurement yourself, or have a shop measure it for you.

  20. #220
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    Roval Joe,

    For some reason I cannot open the spoke lookup chart you linked above.
    Could you tell me the part number and length for a 2011 Traverse EL rear non-drive side spoke?

    Thanks again!
    Steve

  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hey everyone, Roval Joe here.

    I manage the Roval MTB wheel program (maybe the coolest wheels you have never heard of) and I am super excited to talk wheels, rims, spokes, spacing, carbon, really anything, with you guys. Let me know if you have some questions, feedback, or ideas. Thanks!
    Hey Joe, I started a search and I'm sure answer's somewhere in these 9 pages....but can you confirm the Control Carbon 29r (non SL) wheel hubs are setup for XX1?

    Thanks in advance.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    can you confirm the Control Carbon 29r (non SL) wheel hubs are setup for XX1?
    I'm no expert, but the product page says this so I'd assume so:
    "Compatible with SRAM XX1 11-Speed"

    Just got mine the other day - very nice set of wheels!

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by corsair77 View Post
    "Compatible with SRAM XX1 11-Speed"

    Just got mine the other day - very nice set of wheels!
    D'oH! Thank you sir. I did not see the tree for the forest.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  24. #224
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    Hi Joe! A few quick questions for you. I have the opportunity to pick up some new, never ridden Roval Control SL 29 wheels. My first question is if they will fit my 13" Stumpy FSR Comp? From what I can tell, there are different end caps that come with wheel set that adapt them to 142+, does that sound right? Next, if they will in fact fit, what are your thoughts on these vs the $1200 Control Carbon's? My main question between the two is if my 211lb body (+plus a little) gear will be too much for the SL with the beads vs the $1200 without the bead. My riding is mostly XC/Trail/All Mountain, but no drops really to speak of, but I do have some pretty chunky local trails here and there. I should add, I can pick up the SL's a bit cheaper then the Control Carbons new. Thoughts? I have never had anything but stock wheel sets, so I am excited either way!

    Cheers!

  25. #225
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    211# riding a 13" frame! My god man what's your inseam??

    I'd say you're more tuned for the Control Carbons.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    211# riding a 13" frame! My god man what's your inseam??

    I'd say you're more tuned for the Control Carbons.
    LOL, yeah ..... I meant a 2013 Stumpy

  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    Hey Joe, I started a search and I'm sure answer's somewhere in these 9 pages....but can you confirm the Control Carbon 29r (non SL) wheel hubs are setup for XX1?

    Thanks in advance.
    JMac- all of our wheels are compatible with XX1, you just need to order the freehub body. super easy to do. Wheels come set up with the standard 9/10spd freehub body.

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by montananate View Post
    Hi Joe! A few quick questions for you. I have the opportunity to pick up some new, never ridden Roval Control SL 29 wheels. My first question is if they will fit my 13" Stumpy FSR Comp? From what I can tell, there are different end caps that come with wheel set that adapt them to 142+, does that sound right? Next, if they will in fact fit, what are your thoughts on these vs the $1200 Control Carbon's? My main question between the two is if my 211lb body (+plus a little) gear will be too much for the SL with the beads vs the $1200 without the bead. My riding is mostly XC/Trail/All Mountain, but no drops really to speak of, but I do have some pretty chunky local trails here and there. I should add, I can pick up the SL's a bit cheaper then the Control Carbons new. Thoughts? I have never had anything but stock wheel sets, so I am excited either way!

    Cheers!
    Montananate- first off, yeah, the wheels in question will fit on your bike, just need to put the 142mm end caps that came with them on. As far as which wheel might be better- the SL's will be lighter of course, but I'd recommend the Control carbon wheels since the rims will be more durable for you. they are stiffer than the SL's, and at your body weight, this is something you'd probably notice.

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Montananate- first off, yeah, the wheels in question will fit on your bike, just need to put the 142mm end caps that came with them on. As far as which wheel might be better- the SL's will be lighter of course, but I'd recommend the Control carbon wheels since the rims will be more durable for you. they are stiffer than the SL's, and at your body weight, this is something you'd probably notice.
    Hmmmm, I was thinking that might be the case, its a bummer, because I can actually purchase these SL's for less then I can get the Control Carbon's ..... but as you said, if they are going to be more durable .......

    Quick question about the 142mm, why is Specialized offering both a 142+ version and a version that can be adapted to 142mm? Why not just the adaptable ones?

  30. #230
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    [QUOTE=montananate;10607743]Hmmmm, I was thinking that might be the case, its a bummer, because I can actually purchase these SL's for less then I can get the Control Carbon's ..... but as you said, if they are going to be more durable .......

    Quick question about the 142mm, why is Specialized offering both a 142+ version and a version that can be adapted to 142mm? Why not just the adaptable ones?[/QUOTE

    142+ is actually a different hubshell that pushes the cassette and drive side spoke flange out 2mm, which gains us an extra 10% in wheel stiffness. in doing so though, this makes the wheels only compatible with our frame design. So, we had to offer wheels that were standard 142mm additionally.

  31. #231
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    [QUOTE=Roval Joe;10607751]
    Quote Originally Posted by montananate View Post
    Hmmmm, I was thinking that might be the case, its a bummer, because I can actually purchase these SL's for less then I can get the Control Carbon's ..... but as you said, if they are going to be more durable .......

    Quick question about the 142mm, why is Specialized offering both a 142+ version and a version that can be adapted to 142mm? Why not just the adaptable ones?[/QUOTE

    142+ is actually a different hubshell that pushes the cassette and drive side spoke flange out 2mm, which gains us an extra 10% in wheel stiffness. in doing so though, this makes the wheels only compatible with our frame design. So, we had to offer wheels that were standard 142mm additionally.
    Ahhh, ok, thank you for that info. I have been a die-hard Spec fan, but if I invest this kind of money into a wheelset, I want to make sure they are going to be compatible with other frames down the road, should I choose to switch.

    Cheers!

  32. #232
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    Hello ROVAL JOE really scared about the new bead hookless ROVAL 2014 WHEELSET!!
    can u explain us more this new system it will fail? can we use it with low pressure? can the tire unbead or blow off the wheel in corners?? can we use it with common tires or 2bliss tires??

    I will buy the 2014 SW stumpy with the new control sl wheelset!! this have this new system and 15mm front and 142 rear!! CAN I convert the rear hub to standard 135 QR for my sister's fate comp bike??

    here is the link for the new tread for the new ROVAL hookless system check it out
    Bead hook-less rims, are they the future?

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    142+ is actually a different hubshell that pushes the cassette and drive side spoke flange out 2mm, which gains us an extra 10% in wheel stiffness. in doing so though, this makes the wheels only compatible with our frame design. So, we had to offer wheels that were standard 142mm additionally.

    Crap.

    So the Roval Traverse 29 142+ wheelset I just bought off Fleabay will not fit on the rear of my Yeti Sb95?

    Or could I just spread the dropouts an extra 1mm on each side? (It's then actually a 144, right Joe?
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  34. #234
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    I think you'd have to switch to the standard DT Swiss end caps vs the standard specialized ones which should be 2mm shorter on the drive side. That'd make it a 144mm wheel but it's likely that the the wheel will be offset 2mm towards the non drive side stays....

    I did the same thing with a 142+ and turned it into a 135x10 which is really 137x10 now. I plan to rebuild the wheel with a new rim and spokes at some point and will dish it appropriately at that time.

  35. #235
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    Hey andresco, browse through the pages, there is some great info there. Plus, Joe has answered all your questions already.

    Cheers!
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by andresco50 View Post
    Hello ROVAL JOE really scared about the new bead hookless ROVAL 2014 WHEELSET!!
    can u explain us more this new system it will fail? can we use it with low pressure? can the tire unbead or blow off the wheel in corners?? can we use it with common tires or 2bliss tires??

    I will buy the 2014 SW stumpy with the new control sl wheelset!! this have this new system and 15mm front and 142 rear!! CAN I convert the rear hub to standard 135 QR for my sister's fate comp bike??

    here is the link for the new tread for the new ROVAL hookless system check it out
    Bead hook-less rims, are they the future?
    Hey Andresco- have a look in the first couple pages of this thread for an explanation of why the rim w/out bead hooks keeps the tire on. For a little history, we introduced this design for model year 2013, so the rims have been in the market (thousands of them), without any problems in keeping tires on. You'll notice all the comments from magazine reviews and comments from actual owners here on MTBR are all positive, reporting no issues with keeping tires on. You'll also notice that the only people commenting on the "theoretical problems with tire compatibility" with these rims are people who A)do not own a set, and B)have never tried them. We have tested many manufacturers tires on these rims with no problems. You will be able to run the same tire pressure with these rims as your standard rims.

    regarding the 142+ system (this is what comes with wheels sold on our bikes), this cannot be changed to 135mm QR. If you purchase an aftermarket set of wheels, you can get them in 135mm which can be converted to standard 142 (different from 142+).

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    Crap.

    So the Roval Traverse 29 142+ wheelset I just bought off Fleabay will not fit on the rear of my Yeti Sb95?

    Or could I just spread the dropouts an extra 1mm on each side? (It's then actually a 144, right Joe?
    bpnic- I'm not sure that even if you spread the dropouts if it will work or not. I think the cassette will probably rub on the frame since the cassette is 2mm further outboard. Let me know what you find out.

  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    bpnic- I'm not sure that even if you spread the dropouts if it will work or not. I think the cassette will probably rub on the frame since the cassette is 2mm further outboard. Let me know what you find out.

    The 142+ hub of my Traverse 29" rear hub measured the same side to side with calipers (142mm), so the difference must just be the 2mm offset like dberndt mentioned earlier in post #234.

    Chainline, I'm hoping, is all that will be affected.

    Maybe not though...Specialized would have to modify each their frames to accept the 2 degree offset if that particular bike was sold with 142+.
    Seems like a pita, even for the big S.

    Thoughts?
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    The 142+ hub of my Traverse 29" rear hub measured the same side to side with calipers (142mm), so the difference must just be the 2mm offset like dberndt mentioned earlier in post #234.

    Chainline, I'm hoping, is all that will be affected.

    Maybe not though...Specialized would have to modify each their frames to accept the 2 degree offset if that particular bike was sold with 142+.
    Seems like a pita, even for the big S.

    Thoughts?
    yeah, our frames are different than standard 142 systems. They will accept both standard 142 as well as 142+, that's why I'm thinking the cassette will hit your frame. We sell our bikes with the 142+ system as it adds an additional 10% stiffness to the wheel over the standard 135/142 system.

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    yeah, our frames are different than standard 142 systems. They will accept both standard 142 as well as 142+, that's why I'm thinking the cassette will hit your frame. We sell our bikes with the 142+ system as it adds an additional 10% stiffness to the wheel over the standard 135/142 system.
    Gotcha. I'll mount it up and post back with results. Thanks Joe-
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  41. #241
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    Joe -- dropped you a note about end cap availability. Trying to get a replacement S125900010 (15mm TA end caps) and the LBS says Specialized says they're not available?

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by spaceharrier View Post
    Joe -- dropped you a note about end cap availability. Trying to get a replacement S125900010 (15mm TA end caps) and the LBS says Specialized says they're not available?

    I've been waiting two weeks for 15mm caps to become available. I was told they are back in stock @ Spesh, and I'll see mine in a week (Utah to Ny)
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  43. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    We sell our bikes with the 142+ system as it adds an additional 10% stiffness to the wheel over the standard 135/142 system.
    Any chance you wanna share the math on how this 2mm shift that specialized has equates to 10% stiffness increase? Tests that are publicly available to see? This sounds like a much better solution to the plain 142.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 006_007 View Post
    Any chance you wanna share the math on how this 2mm shift that specialized has equates to 10% stiffness increase? Tests that are publicly available to see? This sounds like a much better solution to the plain 142.
    006_007- I won't go into the math of it, but to explain how it works, first, the hubshell is different in that the drive side flange is pushed outward as far as possible (along with the cassette due to clearance issues). Pushing the flanges further apart is what adds stiffness to the wheel. Imagine a traffic cone (triangle) that has a narrow base. If you increase the size of the base (pushing flanges apart), it gets harder to tip over. Same with a wheel- when you have a larger base, the torsional stiffness (side to side) increases significantly. When we first did 142mm rear wheels in Roval, we looked at the current designs at the time and realized that nobody was actually using the extra space (increase from 135mm) to gain wheel stiffness. So you had all these wheels being made with the similar stiffness as 135mm wheels. You were gaining some stiffness from the 142mm axle, but also leaving some stiffness on the table by not having the flanges pushed out. So that was the whole reason behind doing it.

  45. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    006_007- I won't go into the math of it, but to explain how it works, first, the hubshell is different in that the drive side flange is pushed outward as far as possible (along with the cassette due to clearance issues). Pushing the flanges further apart is what adds stiffness to the wheel. Imagine a traffic cone (triangle) that has a narrow base. If you increase the size of the base (pushing flanges apart), it gets harder to tip over. Same with a wheel- when you have a larger base, the torsional stiffness (side to side) increases significantly. When we first did 142mm rear wheels in Roval, we looked at the current designs at the time and realized that nobody was actually using the extra space (increase from 135mm) to gain wheel stiffness. So you had all these wheels being made with the similar stiffness as 135mm wheels. You were gaining some stiffness from the 142mm axle, but also leaving some stiffness on the table by not having the flanges pushed out. So that was the whole reason behind doing it.
    So your claimed 10% increase is comparing it to a 135 or to a standard 142? And are we talking lateral stiffness here?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 006_007 View Post
    So your claimed 10% increase is comparing it to a 135 or to a standard 142? And are we talking lateral stiffness here?
    Both actually. A lot of wheels (our own included) are compatible with 135 and standard 142, it's the same hub with different end caps. The 10% stiffness is when compared to the 135/142 wheel. If by lateral, you mean side to side, then yes.

  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Both actually. A lot of wheels (our own included) are compatible with 135 and standard 142, it's the same hub with different end caps. The 10% stiffness is when compared to the 135/142 wheel. If by lateral, you mean side to side, then yes.
    So if I take one of your 142 wheels, put a sideways load on it of say 1000LBS* and that will make it deflect 10mm*, and then put the same load on the roval 142+ wheel, it will only deflect 9mm* ?



    *numerical values are just an example - I have no idea how much lateral load needs to deflect any wheel 10mm.

    Is that much extra stiffness really needed? A lot of frames have less then 10mm of clearance to the sides of tires and are not getting contact under deflection. How much is really needed.

    Are you also increasing the height of the flanges? Or am I incorrect that shorter spokes/taller flanges would give similar effects?

    Sorry for all the questions - These are an interesting wheelset - its not often I get to bounce ideas off someone in the know.

  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    yeah, our frames are different than standard 142 systems. They will accept both standard 142 as well as 142+, that's why I'm thinking the cassette will hit your frame. We sell our bikes with the 142+ system as it adds an additional 10% stiffness to the wheel over the standard 135/142 system.
    I've had an S-Works Epic 29'er 2013 with Roval SL 142+ wheels. After selling the frame, I tried to insert them into my Merida Big Nine Team Issue frame - fits perfect, but ... when the chain is on my 11T, it rubs against the upper chain stays. Sold the 142+ wheels and got the 135's converted to 142mm - it's more future proof in case you like to try another (brand of) frame.

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    Roval questions?

    Hey Joe, a question on the 2014 lineup:
    I understand that the 2014 Roval Control SL 29 wheels now also get the hookless rims. Are those now the same as the ones on the Roval Control Carbons?
    Which 2014 wheels would you recommend for XC and trail riding?
    My weight is 75 kg...

  50. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by 006_007 View Post
    So if I take one of your 142 wheels, put a sideways load on it of say 1000LBS* and that will make it deflect 10mm*, and then put the same load on the roval 142+ wheel, it will only deflect 9mm* ?



    *numerical values are just an example - I have no idea how much lateral load needs to deflect any wheel 10mm.

    Is that much extra stiffness really needed? A lot of frames have less then 10mm of clearance to the sides of tires and are not getting contact under deflection. How much is really needed.

    Are you also increasing the height of the flanges? Or am I incorrect that shorter spokes/taller flanges would give similar effects?

    Sorry for all the questions - These are an interesting wheelset - its not often I get to bounce ideas off someone in the know.

    I like how you think....as an analyst, these are also the questions that I have to ask. It could also be ....instead of deflecting 1mm, it now deflects .9mm..

    Marketing is a hell of a thing. I represent a super strong material used for hurricane protection. When grommets are placed into the material they fail at 600 pounds. The building code requires they be tested to 400 pounds. I have two other clamp system. One fails at 15,000 pounds and the other at 16,500 pounds.....does that make the one with a higher fail rate better?. The answer is no, because at those pressures your house will not be standing.....
    Last edited by Atomik Carbon; 08-20-2013 at 07:45 AM. Reason: Spelling

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