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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by mteitsch View Post
    Hi Joe,
    I got in touch with the shop and they happen to have a few 302mm spokes on the shelf that they are sending. BTW the shop did send me some 304mm spokes previously,but they are too long for the non drive side rear wheel. have you heard of this in your travels?. I'm going to try to substitute the 302 (it's only 2mm shorter .080") but I hope it works.
    Thanks again for your assistance.
    Mike T
    I have not heard of this, did you by chance measure them? Because of the dish, the non drive will have to be longer than the drive side, so if your 302mm spokes worked, i'm surprised the 304's are too long?

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by austinTRON View Post
    Hey joe, I have a set of DT 240S hubs. The front hub is 100mm QR hub currently. I really really want to run RWS skewer as I have had some terrible trouble with regular QR skewers, even internal cam ones. Can I use Roval end caps to convert it? That's all I'd need right? If so, can you list the part # for the skewer and end caps?
    AustinTRON- sorry, this won't work. Roval front end caps are different. Have you looked at seeing if DT makes the end caps you need? I'm not sure off the top of my head

  3. #203
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    2014_spoke lookup chart.pdf

    Hi everyone,
    I've had a fair amount of spoke length questions, so I'm posting this easy look up chart in hopes this makes it easier for everyone.

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    AustinTRON- sorry, this won't work. Roval front end caps are different. Have you looked at seeing if DT makes the end caps you need? I'm not sure off the top of my head
    Dang, ok. Neither J&B or QBP have the end caps available. The wheel builder at our shop just finished my wheels today and we looked all over the place for the end caps, There was tons of options for 135 > 142mm converts, XX1 freehubs, 15mm > 20mm converters, star ratchet upgrades, etc. etc. etc. Couldn't find RWS end caps any where. :/
    Nature never said one thing, and wisdom another...

  5. #205
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    Quick question regarding the availability of the 2014 Roval Control Trail SL 29 wheels. I noticed that that wheel is not referenced in the PDF posted a few pages back with regards to spoke specs.

    Is there any sort of expected release date (for purchase)?

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterhoss56 View Post
    Quick question regarding the availability of the 2014 Roval Control Trail SL 29 wheels. I noticed that that wheel is not referenced in the PDF posted a few pages back with regards to spoke specs.

    Is there any sort of expected release date (for purchase)?
    Masterhoss56- the Control Trail SL wheels did not make it in the line for '14. we're only making the 29" version now.

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Masterhoss56- the Control Trail SL wheels did not make it in the line for '14. we're only making the 29" version now.
    Thanks for the reply. I was actually wondering about the availability of the 29" 2014 Control Trail SL wheels. Specialized 2014 Wheels, Tires, Shoes And Helmets - BikeRadar

    I'd like to order these and get them on my bike as soon as they are available.

    EDIT: Nevermind. I completely overlooked what you and the article I linked stated. Thanks for the info.

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterhoss56 View Post
    Thanks for the reply. I was actually wondering about the availability of the 29" 2014 Control Trail SL wheels. Specialized 2014 Wheels, Tires, Shoes And Helmets - BikeRadar

    I'd like to order these and get them on my bike as soon as they are available.
    ah, ok. Those are the Control SL 29, not Trail. These are starting to produce now and should be available to dealers end of September/beginning of October.

  9. #209
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    Hey Roval Joe. One last question. At 170lbs and doing trail rides, should I wait for the Control SL or would the Control Trail SL be the way to go for every day rides? (are the Control Trail SL wheels more durable than the Control SL?)

    No racing, and no all mountain riding.

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterhoss56 View Post
    Hey Roval Joe. One last question. At 170lbs and doing trail rides, should I wait for the Control SL or would the Control Trail SL be the way to go for every day rides? (are the Control Trail SL wheels more durable than the Control SL?)

    No racing, and no all mountain riding.
    Masterhoss, because of the no bead hook design, the new Control SL rim is more resistant to rock strikes. The overall wheel is lighter than the Trial version though, and a bit less stiff. I've been riding trail style rides on my set without any problem (mounted on a Camber) and weigh 160lb. If you're not a wheel destroying kind of rider, this wheelset would probably be fine for the kind of riding you're doing.

  11. #211
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    New question here. Which wheels?

    Hi Joe,

    I'm hoping you can give me some advice on the best wheels for me. I trail ride, nothing extreme at the moment i.e. no drops or jumps and taking everything gently as I've only been riding for a few months and I'm still learning! I will do more adventurous stuff eventually, but not for a while yet. I'll be trading up to a 29er next week and I want the lightest/stiffest wheels I can safely put on it, and I would probably have gone for the Control 29 Carbons but I hesitated because of the weight limit. I'm currently just under the 108kg but would be a bit heavier with camelback etc. I'm losing weight steadily (5kg in the last 2 months) so if that continues in a month or two I'd be well under the weight limit but I don't really want to wait that long (I know, I'm impatient!).

    So would I be taking a risk in going for one of the carbon wheelsets at my current weight? Either way, which wheel (carbon or alloy) do you think would be best for me?

    I need 15mm front hub, 12x142mm rear, and 6-hole rotor mounts, so I'd need to know whether all of that comes with whatever you recommend or would I need any additional adapters.

    Also, if you recommend one of the Traverse wheelsets, I've seen comments that they are not officially for sale here in the UK - is that right? If so I assume you wouldn't advise buying a grey import.

    Sorry this is such a long question, but many thanks for your help!

    Pete

  12. #212
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    Roval Joe, I have a 2008 S-Works FSR Stumpy, but have the wheels off a 2010 S-Works Stumpy FSR. I weigh 225, and ride Trail and AM. They are staying pretty true and I have 850 miles on them. I run a Purgatory 2.3" control tire on the front, a Captain 2.1 Control on the rear. Are these rims wide enough for a 2.3" or am I pushing my luck? If I decide to upgrade to a new wheel at some point, I do not want to add weight. I like the feel of these Control SL rims, but perhaps want something a little stronger, a little wider, without adding weight. Any suggestions? 26" BTW.

    Thanks...

  13. #213
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    Roval Joe,

    I have a set of Roval Traverse EL 26" wheels. Grey and black, red nipples, red hub adapters, and DT 240 rear hub internals. They look just like the ones Pinkbike reviewed here: Roval Traverse EL Wheelset - Preview - Pinkbike

    I am confused as to if they are 2010, or 2011? I broke a rear spoke, do I use the length/part number from your spoke lookup chart for the 2011 Traverse EL?

    Another quick question since I have not removed the tubeless tape yet, are the nipples standard, or hex-head DT pro lock? And will the above spoke part numbers come with a nipple?

    Thanks,
    Steve

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by corsair77 View Post
    Hi Joe,

    I'm hoping you can give me some advice on the best wheels for me. I trail ride, nothing extreme at the moment i.e. no drops or jumps and taking everything gently as I've only been riding for a few months and I'm still learning! I will do more adventurous stuff eventually, but not for a while yet. I'll be trading up to a 29er next week and I want the lightest/stiffest wheels I can safely put on it, and I would probably have gone for the Control 29 Carbons but I hesitated because of the weight limit. I'm currently just under the 108kg but would be a bit heavier with camelback etc. I'm losing weight steadily (5kg in the last 2 months) so if that continues in a month or two I'd be well under the weight limit but I don't really want to wait that long (I know, I'm impatient!).

    So would I be taking a risk in going for one of the carbon wheelsets at my current weight? Either way, which wheel (carbon or alloy) do you think would be best for me?

    I need 15mm front hub, 12x142mm rear, and 6-hole rotor mounts, so I'd need to know whether all of that comes with whatever you recommend or would I need any additional adapters.

    Also, if you recommend one of the Traverse wheelsets, I've seen comments that they are not officially for sale here in the UK - is that right? If so I assume you wouldn't advise buying a grey import.

    Sorry this is such a long question, but many thanks for your help!

    Pete
    Hey Pete,
    thanks for the inquiry! You could go with the Traverse wheels, but I actually think you'll be served better by the Control Carbon wheels. These have proven to be an extremely robust set of wheels for trail riding, and you shouldn't have trouble with the weight limit. They do come with all the end caps needed to set up to your needs, and I think the UK is bringing these in. Hopefully you should be good to go!

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by trmn8er View Post
    Roval Joe, I have a 2008 S-Works FSR Stumpy, but have the wheels off a 2010 S-Works Stumpy FSR. I weigh 225, and ride Trail and AM. They are staying pretty true and I have 850 miles on them. I run a Purgatory 2.3" control tire on the front, a Captain 2.1 Control on the rear. Are these rims wide enough for a 2.3" or am I pushing my luck? If I decide to upgrade to a new wheel at some point, I do not want to add weight. I like the feel of these Control SL rims, but perhaps want something a little stronger, a little wider, without adding weight. Any suggestions? 26" BTW.

    Thanks...
    trmn8er- if you like the feel, then the 2.3 tire is fine to run. The rim is a bit on the narrow side (19mm inner width), but if you are not experiencing tire squirm then I'd continue to run it. That wheelset is pretty darn light, so upgrading in the future to something wider w/out gaining weight will be tough. The only other 26" carbon wheel we offer now is Traverse SL, which are 22mm wide, but they have more spokes, beefier spokes, and bigger front hub.

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by deoreo View Post
    Roval Joe,

    I have a set of Roval Traverse EL 26" wheels. Grey and black, red nipples, red hub adapters, and DT 240 rear hub internals. They look just like the ones Pinkbike reviewed here: Roval Traverse EL Wheelset - Preview - Pinkbike

    I am confused as to if they are 2010, or 2011? I broke a rear spoke, do I use the length/part number from your spoke lookup chart for the 2011 Traverse EL?

    Another quick question since I have not removed the tubeless tape yet, are the nipples standard, or hex-head DT pro lock? And will the above spoke part numbers come with a nipple?

    Thanks,
    Steve
    Hey Steve,
    you can use the spoke PN's from the '11 wheel for yours as well. they should be the same. the spokes are DT hex head prolock, and they do not come with the spoke. PN for the nipple in red is S2027009.

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hey Pete, ... I actually think you'll be served better by the Control Carbon wheels. ... Hopefully you should be good to go!
    That's great, exactly what I was hoping to hear of course! I can't see any dealers actually showing stock of the Control Carbons here in the UK but there are several who show them for sale with delivery times of a few days so I assume they'll be coming from the importer's warehouse somewhere in the UK. I guess I'm about to find out as my order is now in!

    Thanks again for your help Joe, it's always nice to see someone take the time to talk to customers.

  18. #218
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    roval joe, can you tell me the rim ERD on the fusee slx rd wheels, from 2012.

    thanks

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by peabody View Post
    roval joe, can you tell me the rim ERD on the fusee slx rd wheels, from 2012.

    thanks
    Hi Peabody- unfortunately, we don't publish our dimensions for individual wheel components, as they are built/sold as a system, and we don't encourage building them with other components. You can of course take a measurement yourself, or have a shop measure it for you.

  20. #220
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    Roval Joe,

    For some reason I cannot open the spoke lookup chart you linked above.
    Could you tell me the part number and length for a 2011 Traverse EL rear non-drive side spoke?

    Thanks again!
    Steve

  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hey everyone, Roval Joe here.

    I manage the Roval MTB wheel program (maybe the coolest wheels you have never heard of) and I am super excited to talk wheels, rims, spokes, spacing, carbon, really anything, with you guys. Let me know if you have some questions, feedback, or ideas. Thanks!
    Hey Joe, I started a search and I'm sure answer's somewhere in these 9 pages....but can you confirm the Control Carbon 29r (non SL) wheel hubs are setup for XX1?

    Thanks in advance.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    can you confirm the Control Carbon 29r (non SL) wheel hubs are setup for XX1?
    I'm no expert, but the product page says this so I'd assume so:
    "Compatible with SRAM XX1 11-Speed"

    Just got mine the other day - very nice set of wheels!

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by corsair77 View Post
    "Compatible with SRAM XX1 11-Speed"

    Just got mine the other day - very nice set of wheels!
    D'oH! Thank you sir. I did not see the tree for the forest.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  24. #224
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    Hi Joe! A few quick questions for you. I have the opportunity to pick up some new, never ridden Roval Control SL 29 wheels. My first question is if they will fit my 13" Stumpy FSR Comp? From what I can tell, there are different end caps that come with wheel set that adapt them to 142+, does that sound right? Next, if they will in fact fit, what are your thoughts on these vs the $1200 Control Carbon's? My main question between the two is if my 211lb body (+plus a little) gear will be too much for the SL with the beads vs the $1200 without the bead. My riding is mostly XC/Trail/All Mountain, but no drops really to speak of, but I do have some pretty chunky local trails here and there. I should add, I can pick up the SL's a bit cheaper then the Control Carbons new. Thoughts? I have never had anything but stock wheel sets, so I am excited either way!

    Cheers!

  25. #225
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    211# riding a 13" frame! My god man what's your inseam??

    I'd say you're more tuned for the Control Carbons.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    211# riding a 13" frame! My god man what's your inseam??

    I'd say you're more tuned for the Control Carbons.
    LOL, yeah ..... I meant a 2013 Stumpy

  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    Hey Joe, I started a search and I'm sure answer's somewhere in these 9 pages....but can you confirm the Control Carbon 29r (non SL) wheel hubs are setup for XX1?

    Thanks in advance.
    JMac- all of our wheels are compatible with XX1, you just need to order the freehub body. super easy to do. Wheels come set up with the standard 9/10spd freehub body.

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by montananate View Post
    Hi Joe! A few quick questions for you. I have the opportunity to pick up some new, never ridden Roval Control SL 29 wheels. My first question is if they will fit my 13" Stumpy FSR Comp? From what I can tell, there are different end caps that come with wheel set that adapt them to 142+, does that sound right? Next, if they will in fact fit, what are your thoughts on these vs the $1200 Control Carbon's? My main question between the two is if my 211lb body (+plus a little) gear will be too much for the SL with the beads vs the $1200 without the bead. My riding is mostly XC/Trail/All Mountain, but no drops really to speak of, but I do have some pretty chunky local trails here and there. I should add, I can pick up the SL's a bit cheaper then the Control Carbons new. Thoughts? I have never had anything but stock wheel sets, so I am excited either way!

    Cheers!
    Montananate- first off, yeah, the wheels in question will fit on your bike, just need to put the 142mm end caps that came with them on. As far as which wheel might be better- the SL's will be lighter of course, but I'd recommend the Control carbon wheels since the rims will be more durable for you. they are stiffer than the SL's, and at your body weight, this is something you'd probably notice.

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Montananate- first off, yeah, the wheels in question will fit on your bike, just need to put the 142mm end caps that came with them on. As far as which wheel might be better- the SL's will be lighter of course, but I'd recommend the Control carbon wheels since the rims will be more durable for you. they are stiffer than the SL's, and at your body weight, this is something you'd probably notice.
    Hmmmm, I was thinking that might be the case, its a bummer, because I can actually purchase these SL's for less then I can get the Control Carbon's ..... but as you said, if they are going to be more durable .......

    Quick question about the 142mm, why is Specialized offering both a 142+ version and a version that can be adapted to 142mm? Why not just the adaptable ones?

  30. #230
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    [QUOTE=montananate;10607743]Hmmmm, I was thinking that might be the case, its a bummer, because I can actually purchase these SL's for less then I can get the Control Carbon's ..... but as you said, if they are going to be more durable .......

    Quick question about the 142mm, why is Specialized offering both a 142+ version and a version that can be adapted to 142mm? Why not just the adaptable ones?[/QUOTE

    142+ is actually a different hubshell that pushes the cassette and drive side spoke flange out 2mm, which gains us an extra 10% in wheel stiffness. in doing so though, this makes the wheels only compatible with our frame design. So, we had to offer wheels that were standard 142mm additionally.

  31. #231
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    [QUOTE=Roval Joe;10607751]
    Quote Originally Posted by montananate View Post
    Hmmmm, I was thinking that might be the case, its a bummer, because I can actually purchase these SL's for less then I can get the Control Carbon's ..... but as you said, if they are going to be more durable .......

    Quick question about the 142mm, why is Specialized offering both a 142+ version and a version that can be adapted to 142mm? Why not just the adaptable ones?[/QUOTE

    142+ is actually a different hubshell that pushes the cassette and drive side spoke flange out 2mm, which gains us an extra 10% in wheel stiffness. in doing so though, this makes the wheels only compatible with our frame design. So, we had to offer wheels that were standard 142mm additionally.
    Ahhh, ok, thank you for that info. I have been a die-hard Spec fan, but if I invest this kind of money into a wheelset, I want to make sure they are going to be compatible with other frames down the road, should I choose to switch.

    Cheers!

  32. #232
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    Hello ROVAL JOE really scared about the new bead hookless ROVAL 2014 WHEELSET!!
    can u explain us more this new system it will fail? can we use it with low pressure? can the tire unbead or blow off the wheel in corners?? can we use it with common tires or 2bliss tires??

    I will buy the 2014 SW stumpy with the new control sl wheelset!! this have this new system and 15mm front and 142 rear!! CAN I convert the rear hub to standard 135 QR for my sister's fate comp bike??

    here is the link for the new tread for the new ROVAL hookless system check it out
    Bead hook-less rims, are they the future?

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    142+ is actually a different hubshell that pushes the cassette and drive side spoke flange out 2mm, which gains us an extra 10% in wheel stiffness. in doing so though, this makes the wheels only compatible with our frame design. So, we had to offer wheels that were standard 142mm additionally.

    Crap.

    So the Roval Traverse 29 142+ wheelset I just bought off Fleabay will not fit on the rear of my Yeti Sb95?

    Or could I just spread the dropouts an extra 1mm on each side? (It's then actually a 144, right Joe?
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  34. #234
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    I think you'd have to switch to the standard DT Swiss end caps vs the standard specialized ones which should be 2mm shorter on the drive side. That'd make it a 144mm wheel but it's likely that the the wheel will be offset 2mm towards the non drive side stays....

    I did the same thing with a 142+ and turned it into a 135x10 which is really 137x10 now. I plan to rebuild the wheel with a new rim and spokes at some point and will dish it appropriately at that time.

  35. #235
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    Hey andresco, browse through the pages, there is some great info there. Plus, Joe has answered all your questions already.

    Cheers!
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by andresco50 View Post
    Hello ROVAL JOE really scared about the new bead hookless ROVAL 2014 WHEELSET!!
    can u explain us more this new system it will fail? can we use it with low pressure? can the tire unbead or blow off the wheel in corners?? can we use it with common tires or 2bliss tires??

    I will buy the 2014 SW stumpy with the new control sl wheelset!! this have this new system and 15mm front and 142 rear!! CAN I convert the rear hub to standard 135 QR for my sister's fate comp bike??

    here is the link for the new tread for the new ROVAL hookless system check it out
    Bead hook-less rims, are they the future?
    Hey Andresco- have a look in the first couple pages of this thread for an explanation of why the rim w/out bead hooks keeps the tire on. For a little history, we introduced this design for model year 2013, so the rims have been in the market (thousands of them), without any problems in keeping tires on. You'll notice all the comments from magazine reviews and comments from actual owners here on MTBR are all positive, reporting no issues with keeping tires on. You'll also notice that the only people commenting on the "theoretical problems with tire compatibility" with these rims are people who A)do not own a set, and B)have never tried them. We have tested many manufacturers tires on these rims with no problems. You will be able to run the same tire pressure with these rims as your standard rims.

    regarding the 142+ system (this is what comes with wheels sold on our bikes), this cannot be changed to 135mm QR. If you purchase an aftermarket set of wheels, you can get them in 135mm which can be converted to standard 142 (different from 142+).

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    Crap.

    So the Roval Traverse 29 142+ wheelset I just bought off Fleabay will not fit on the rear of my Yeti Sb95?

    Or could I just spread the dropouts an extra 1mm on each side? (It's then actually a 144, right Joe?
    bpnic- I'm not sure that even if you spread the dropouts if it will work or not. I think the cassette will probably rub on the frame since the cassette is 2mm further outboard. Let me know what you find out.

  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    bpnic- I'm not sure that even if you spread the dropouts if it will work or not. I think the cassette will probably rub on the frame since the cassette is 2mm further outboard. Let me know what you find out.

    The 142+ hub of my Traverse 29" rear hub measured the same side to side with calipers (142mm), so the difference must just be the 2mm offset like dberndt mentioned earlier in post #234.

    Chainline, I'm hoping, is all that will be affected.

    Maybe not though...Specialized would have to modify each their frames to accept the 2 degree offset if that particular bike was sold with 142+.
    Seems like a pita, even for the big S.

    Thoughts?
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    The 142+ hub of my Traverse 29" rear hub measured the same side to side with calipers (142mm), so the difference must just be the 2mm offset like dberndt mentioned earlier in post #234.

    Chainline, I'm hoping, is all that will be affected.

    Maybe not though...Specialized would have to modify each their frames to accept the 2 degree offset if that particular bike was sold with 142+.
    Seems like a pita, even for the big S.

    Thoughts?
    yeah, our frames are different than standard 142 systems. They will accept both standard 142 as well as 142+, that's why I'm thinking the cassette will hit your frame. We sell our bikes with the 142+ system as it adds an additional 10% stiffness to the wheel over the standard 135/142 system.

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    yeah, our frames are different than standard 142 systems. They will accept both standard 142 as well as 142+, that's why I'm thinking the cassette will hit your frame. We sell our bikes with the 142+ system as it adds an additional 10% stiffness to the wheel over the standard 135/142 system.
    Gotcha. I'll mount it up and post back with results. Thanks Joe-
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  41. #241
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    Joe -- dropped you a note about end cap availability. Trying to get a replacement S125900010 (15mm TA end caps) and the LBS says Specialized says they're not available?

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by spaceharrier View Post
    Joe -- dropped you a note about end cap availability. Trying to get a replacement S125900010 (15mm TA end caps) and the LBS says Specialized says they're not available?

    I've been waiting two weeks for 15mm caps to become available. I was told they are back in stock @ Spesh, and I'll see mine in a week (Utah to Ny)
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  43. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    We sell our bikes with the 142+ system as it adds an additional 10% stiffness to the wheel over the standard 135/142 system.
    Any chance you wanna share the math on how this 2mm shift that specialized has equates to 10% stiffness increase? Tests that are publicly available to see? This sounds like a much better solution to the plain 142.

  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by 006_007 View Post
    Any chance you wanna share the math on how this 2mm shift that specialized has equates to 10% stiffness increase? Tests that are publicly available to see? This sounds like a much better solution to the plain 142.
    006_007- I won't go into the math of it, but to explain how it works, first, the hubshell is different in that the drive side flange is pushed outward as far as possible (along with the cassette due to clearance issues). Pushing the flanges further apart is what adds stiffness to the wheel. Imagine a traffic cone (triangle) that has a narrow base. If you increase the size of the base (pushing flanges apart), it gets harder to tip over. Same with a wheel- when you have a larger base, the torsional stiffness (side to side) increases significantly. When we first did 142mm rear wheels in Roval, we looked at the current designs at the time and realized that nobody was actually using the extra space (increase from 135mm) to gain wheel stiffness. So you had all these wheels being made with the similar stiffness as 135mm wheels. You were gaining some stiffness from the 142mm axle, but also leaving some stiffness on the table by not having the flanges pushed out. So that was the whole reason behind doing it.

  45. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    006_007- I won't go into the math of it, but to explain how it works, first, the hubshell is different in that the drive side flange is pushed outward as far as possible (along with the cassette due to clearance issues). Pushing the flanges further apart is what adds stiffness to the wheel. Imagine a traffic cone (triangle) that has a narrow base. If you increase the size of the base (pushing flanges apart), it gets harder to tip over. Same with a wheel- when you have a larger base, the torsional stiffness (side to side) increases significantly. When we first did 142mm rear wheels in Roval, we looked at the current designs at the time and realized that nobody was actually using the extra space (increase from 135mm) to gain wheel stiffness. So you had all these wheels being made with the similar stiffness as 135mm wheels. You were gaining some stiffness from the 142mm axle, but also leaving some stiffness on the table by not having the flanges pushed out. So that was the whole reason behind doing it.
    So your claimed 10% increase is comparing it to a 135 or to a standard 142? And are we talking lateral stiffness here?

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by 006_007 View Post
    So your claimed 10% increase is comparing it to a 135 or to a standard 142? And are we talking lateral stiffness here?
    Both actually. A lot of wheels (our own included) are compatible with 135 and standard 142, it's the same hub with different end caps. The 10% stiffness is when compared to the 135/142 wheel. If by lateral, you mean side to side, then yes.

  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Both actually. A lot of wheels (our own included) are compatible with 135 and standard 142, it's the same hub with different end caps. The 10% stiffness is when compared to the 135/142 wheel. If by lateral, you mean side to side, then yes.
    So if I take one of your 142 wheels, put a sideways load on it of say 1000LBS* and that will make it deflect 10mm*, and then put the same load on the roval 142+ wheel, it will only deflect 9mm* ?



    *numerical values are just an example - I have no idea how much lateral load needs to deflect any wheel 10mm.

    Is that much extra stiffness really needed? A lot of frames have less then 10mm of clearance to the sides of tires and are not getting contact under deflection. How much is really needed.

    Are you also increasing the height of the flanges? Or am I incorrect that shorter spokes/taller flanges would give similar effects?

    Sorry for all the questions - These are an interesting wheelset - its not often I get to bounce ideas off someone in the know.

  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    yeah, our frames are different than standard 142 systems. They will accept both standard 142 as well as 142+, that's why I'm thinking the cassette will hit your frame. We sell our bikes with the 142+ system as it adds an additional 10% stiffness to the wheel over the standard 135/142 system.
    I've had an S-Works Epic 29'er 2013 with Roval SL 142+ wheels. After selling the frame, I tried to insert them into my Merida Big Nine Team Issue frame - fits perfect, but ... when the chain is on my 11T, it rubs against the upper chain stays. Sold the 142+ wheels and got the 135's converted to 142mm - it's more future proof in case you like to try another (brand of) frame.

  49. #249
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    Roval questions?

    Hey Joe, a question on the 2014 lineup:
    I understand that the 2014 Roval Control SL 29 wheels now also get the hookless rims. Are those now the same as the ones on the Roval Control Carbons?
    Which 2014 wheels would you recommend for XC and trail riding?
    My weight is 75 kg...

  50. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by 006_007 View Post
    So if I take one of your 142 wheels, put a sideways load on it of say 1000LBS* and that will make it deflect 10mm*, and then put the same load on the roval 142+ wheel, it will only deflect 9mm* ?



    *numerical values are just an example - I have no idea how much lateral load needs to deflect any wheel 10mm.

    Is that much extra stiffness really needed? A lot of frames have less then 10mm of clearance to the sides of tires and are not getting contact under deflection. How much is really needed.

    Are you also increasing the height of the flanges? Or am I incorrect that shorter spokes/taller flanges would give similar effects?

    Sorry for all the questions - These are an interesting wheelset - its not often I get to bounce ideas off someone in the know.

    I like how you think....as an analyst, these are also the questions that I have to ask. It could also be ....instead of deflecting 1mm, it now deflects .9mm..

    Marketing is a hell of a thing. I represent a super strong material used for hurricane protection. When grommets are placed into the material they fail at 600 pounds. The building code requires they be tested to 400 pounds. I have two other clamp system. One fails at 15,000 pounds and the other at 16,500 pounds.....does that make the one with a higher fail rate better?. The answer is no, because at those pressures your house will not be standing.....
    Last edited by Atomik Carbon; 08-20-2013 at 07:45 AM. Reason: Spelling

  51. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by 006_007 View Post
    So if I take one of your 142 wheels, put a sideways load on it of say 1000LBS* and that will make it deflect 10mm*, and then put the same load on the roval 142+ wheel, it will only deflect 9mm* ?



    *numerical values are just an example - I have no idea how much lateral load needs to deflect any wheel 10mm.

    Is that much extra stiffness really needed? A lot of frames have less then 10mm of clearance to the sides of tires and are not getting contact under deflection. How much is really needed.

    Are you also increasing the height of the flanges? Or am I incorrect that shorter spokes/taller flanges would give similar effects?

    Sorry for all the questions - These are an interesting wheelset - its not often I get to bounce ideas off someone in the know.
    006_007- you are on the right track with your example. "is that much extra stiffness really needed?" depends on who you ask really. For example, a lightweight rider, or a rider who does not ride super aggressively, the extra stiffness might not be of much value, since they are not pushing the wheel hard enough to feel it start to flex. Someone who weighs significantly more, or rides fairly aggressively though would probably argue that they want a stiffer wheelset.

    "are you also increasing the height of the flanges" no, these are the same. making larger flanges can change stiffness, but you have to start considering the weight trade off vs spoke length

    no problem on the questions, it's good to try and actually understand the product, rather than purchasing something based on hype.

  52. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by madskatingcow View Post
    I've had an S-Works Epic 29'er 2013 with Roval SL 142+ wheels. After selling the frame, I tried to insert them into my Merida Big Nine Team Issue frame - fits perfect, but ... when the chain is on my 11T, it rubs against the upper chain stays. Sold the 142+ wheels and got the 135's converted to 142mm - it's more future proof in case you like to try another (brand of) frame.
    Madskatingco- thanks for the feedback on that. Good info for both myself and others on the forum!

  53. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by YaMon View Post
    I like how you think....as an analyst, these are also the questions that I have to ask. It could also be ....instead of deflecting 1mm, it now deflects .9mm..

    Marketing is a hell of a thing. I represent a super strong material used for hurricane protection. When grommets are placed into the material they fail at 600 pounds. The building code requires they be tested to 400 pounds. I have two other clamp system. One fails at 15,000 pounds and the other at 16,500 pounds.....does that make the one with a higher fail rate better?. The answer is no, because at those pressures your house will not be standing.....
    Great Point YaMon. In some cases it's worthless to offer something that performs well above any real life conditions it would ever see. In the case of 142+, as I mentioned to 006_007, we feel some riders appreciate this stiffness, so we do sell it. You'll notice there is not a weight penalty for it, and no cost premium for it also. It's actually a big pain for us to have both 135/142+ wheel SKU's (the wheel line basically doubles), and if were only about selling product, we'd get rid of 142+ tomorrow.

  54. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by bart_simpson View Post
    Hey Joe, a question on the 2014 lineup:
    I understand that the 2014 Roval Control SL 29 wheels now also get the hookless rims. Are those now the same as the ones on the Roval Control Carbons?
    Which 2014 wheels would you recommend for XC and trail riding?
    My weight is 75 kg...
    Hey Bart- The rim on the new Control SL's is similar to the Control Carbon in that it has no bead hooks, however, the outer rim dimensions are different (if you hold the two side to side, they look very different). Inner width is 22mm for the new Control SL, same as Control Carbon. which wheels would I recommend? for your weight, if you are doing lighter XC trail riding, you'll be fine with them. The rim is more resistant to rock strikes/impacts than in the past, so you should be fine.

  55. #255
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    Roval questions?

    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hey Bart- The rim on the new Control SL's is similar to the Control Carbon in that it has no bead hooks, however, the outer rim dimensions are different (if you hold the two side to side, they look very different). Inner width is 22mm for the new Control SL, same as Control Carbon. which wheels would I recommend? for your weight, if you are doing lighter XC trail riding, you'll be fine with them. The rim is more resistant to rock strikes/impacts than in the past, so you should be fine.
    Hey Joe, thanks for that quick reply!
    Do I understand your answer correctly that the Control Carbon wheel is still more robust than the SL wheel?
    I do not need the lightest wheel and make compromises in stability. I rather have a few grams more on it, knowing I also can trust it on tours and trails in the European Alps for example...

  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by bart_simpson View Post
    Hey Joe, thanks for that quick reply!
    Do I understand your answer correctly that the Control Carbon wheel is still more robust than the SL wheel?
    I do not need the lightest wheel and make compromises in stability. I rather have a few grams more on it, knowing I also can trust it on tours and trails in the European Alps for example...
    Hey Bart- as far as impact resistance, the Control Carbon is more robust than the 2013 Control SL wheel. You won't have issues with either in stability, but the Control Carbon will be more durable.

  57. #257
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    Roval questions?

    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hey Bart- as far as impact resistance, the Control Carbon is more robust than the 2013 Control SL wheel. You won't have issues with either in stability, but the Control Carbon will be more durable.
    And what about the 2014 Control SL compared to the 2013 Control Carbon?

  58. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by bart_simpson View Post
    And what about the 2014 Control SL compared to the 2013 Control Carbon?
    I think is more robust than the control sl 2013, the new hookless rim adds strength, is wider and stiffer...

  59. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by bart_simpson View Post
    And what about the 2014 Control SL compared to the 2013 Control Carbon?
    Hey Bart, 2014 Control SL and 2013/14 Control Carbons will be a lot closer in impact resistance due to the fact both have the zero bead hook design. Control Carbon's will be a bit stiffer because of the wheel construction.

  60. #260
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    Hey Joe, didn't see if this has been asked/answered, but is it reasonable to think that the 2014 Control SL's will be a little less than the 2013's due to the hookless bead? Thanks man, for all your help in here.


    Side note for Specialized...I'd be absolutely stoked if you'd offer these wheels with Centerlock hubs...atleast as a limited option. Be the perfect wheel in my opinion. I see that you already offer some cross wheels with CL hubs.

  61. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by jochribs View Post
    Hey Joe, didn't see if this has been asked/answered, but is it reasonable to think that the 2014 Control SL's will be a little less than the 2013's due to the hookless bead? Thanks man, for all your help in here.


    Side note for Specialized...I'd be absolutely stoked if you'd offer these wheels with Centerlock hubs...atleast as a limited option. Be the perfect wheel in my opinion. I see that you already offer some cross wheels with CL hubs.
    jochribs- I see where you're going with the pricing, but there's more to it than that. These rims use a higher end carbon material, so they are actually more expensive than Control Carbon rims (as well as lighter). As for centerlock, understand your request, and there are a couple reasons we don't do centerlock. One is the fact that it adds a lot more SKU's to an already large list of wheels, and the other is that centerlock is actually heavier as a system (hub/rotor/bolts) than the 6 bolt standard is. It also reduces your rotor options by quite a bit. Maybe not as big of a deal for CX/road bikes, but it is for mtn bikes.

  62. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    jochribs- I see where you're going with the pricing, but there's more to it than that. These rims use a higher end carbon material, so they are actually more expensive than Control Carbon rims (as well as lighter). As for centerlock, understand your request, and there are a couple reasons we don't do centerlock. One is the fact that it adds a lot more SKU's to an already large list of wheels, and the other is that centerlock is actually heavier as a system (hub/rotor/bolts) than the 6 bolt standard is. It also reduces your rotor options by quite a bit. Maybe not as big of a deal for CX/road bikes, but it is for mtn bikes.
    Thanks for the response. I understand that the SL's will cost more than the Control Carbons...I am wondering if the hookless SL's will cost less than the previous year SL model (with the machined hook rim).

    On the Centerlock reasoning, I totally disagree with much of that reasoning, but respect it. Anyway, was just a vote meant as helpful feedback, as I am sure there are plenty of folks that would run them.

  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by jochribs View Post
    Thanks for the response. I understand that the SL's will cost more than the Control Carbons...I am wondering if the hookless SL's will cost less than the previous year SL model (with the machined hook rim).

    On the Centerlock reasoning, I totally disagree with much of that reasoning, but respect it. Anyway, was just a vote meant as helpful feedback, as I am sure there are plenty of folks that would run them.
    jochribs- Sorry for not being clear there! ok, so yeah, the new Control SL's will be slightly higher, although I don't have the final MSRP yet. I think the website will go live with all the information in a couple weeks though. Centerlock- you're right, there are customers out there who would run them, but the logistical nightmare of having them where they'd need to be prohibits us from doing it at this point. Maybe as the brand grows we can justify having more options. Thanks for understanding!

  64. #264
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    When will the carbon control sl's be available? I have had a set ordered since June. Was originally told August but that got pushed back.

  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by reelmcoy View Post
    When will the carbon control sl's be available? I have had a set ordered since June. Was originally told August but that got pushed back.
    reelmcoy- I'm a bit confused on what you've got on order. Your message mentions having wheels on order since June, but we didn't launch the '14 Control SL 29's until the middle of July. So, that would leave me to believe you ordered the '13 Control SL 29's in June, however, there are plenty of these in stock.

  66. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    reelmcoy- I'm a bit confused on what you've got on order. Your message mentions having wheels on order since June, but we didn't launch the '14 Control SL 29's until the middle of July. So, that would leave me to believe you ordered the '13 Control SL 29's in June, however, there are plenty of these in stock.
    Slrry, should have mentioned I ordered 26" wheels. Yes, I am fighting the trend.

  67. #267
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    I have a question on the Roval Traverse SL carbons, does the rear adapt to a 12x135 or only a 12x142 and 10x135 ? I bought these 2nd hand and looks like im missing an adapter. I have a long a short 12mm adapter but that seems to be for 12x142 ? am i missing something ? it is a 135 hub to....

  68. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by reelmcoy View Post
    Slrry, should have mentioned I ordered 26" wheels. Yes, I am fighting the trend.
    reelmcoy- ok, makes total sense now. We stopped making those wheels in 2012. There are a few of them left in 142+ in the red colorway, but that looks like all that would be left.

  69. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmeride View Post
    I have a question on the Roval Traverse SL carbons, does the rear adapt to a 12x135 or only a 12x142 and 10x135 ? I bought these 2nd hand and looks like im missing an adapter. I have a long a short 12mm adapter but that seems to be for 12x142 ? am i missing something ? it is a 135 hub to....
    cmeride- for the 135mm wheels, we supply end caps to convert to 12x142, but do not include end caps for 12x135. However, the hub is convertible to 12x135, you just need to order the end caps from DT Swiss. Their part# is: HWGXXX0002218S. for a full listing of what you can convert to: http://www.dtswiss.com/Resources/Ima..._Kit_Style.pdf

  70. #270
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    I have just trawled through this thread, looking for the rim height of 2014 Control SL 29 rims. They look taller than the previous generation.

    Roval Joe, do you know the measurement?

  71. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_marsbar View Post
    I have just trawled through this thread, looking for the rim height of 2014 Control SL 29 rims. They look taller than the previous generation.

    Roval Joe, do you know the measurement?
    marshbar- just so I know exactly what you're looking for, are you referring to a measurement that shows the distance from the top of the sidewall to the bottom of the spoke bed? Or are you simply referring to the inner sidewall height from top of sidewall to rim bed?

  72. #272
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    Just found this thread, thx Roval Joe for your help here, makes these wheels an even better buy.

    I've had a set of the Control Carbon 29er wheels for the last 3 months and they have been perfect, have them on a steel HT. Light, stiff, tires mounted up tubeless with no issues and have stayed that way. These are my first carbon wheels so I was skeptical about real world durability under my 210lb frame.

    On the first ride I caught a rock and bent the der hanger, also put a nice gouge in the rear rim. Didn't realize I had bent the hanger and shifted the chain into the spokes later in the ride, bent one of the drive side spokes and knocked the wheel out of true, oh crap! When I got home I inspected the spoke and was able to true the wheel without any issue. Three months later the wheel has stayed true, the spoke is fine and I have added even more scratches to the rim. Very pleased so far!

  73. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by rroeder View Post
    Just found this thread, thx Roval Joe for your help here, makes these wheels an even better buy.

    I've had a set of the Control Carbon 29er wheels for the last 3 months and they have been perfect, have them on a steel HT. Light, stiff, tires mounted up tubeless with no issues and have stayed that way. These are my first carbon wheels so I was skeptical about real world durability under my 210lb frame.

    On the first ride I caught a rock and bent the der hanger, also put a nice gouge in the rear rim. Didn't realize I had bent the hanger and shifted the chain into the spokes later in the ride, bent one of the drive side spokes and knocked the wheel out of true, oh crap! When I got home I inspected the spoke and was able to true the wheel without any issue. Three months later the wheel has stayed true, the spoke is fine and I have added even more scratches to the rim. Very pleased so far!
    rroeder- cool, stoked you're out there enjoying them! we can talk about wheels all day long, but getting out there and riding them is way more fun!

  74. #274
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    Roval Joe - I'm looking for the outside rim height. Like the 355 rim shown here: http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdn...comparison.jpg which has a rim height of 16.9 mm.

  75. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_marsbar View Post
    Roval Joe - I'm looking for the outside rim height. Like the 355 rim shown here: http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdn...comparison.jpg which has a rim height of 16.9 mm.
    marshbar- got it. I don't have a dimensioned drawing and that rim engineer is out today, however I just grabbed a rim and measured it at 23.5mm

  76. #276
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    I am a full on Roval lover. I'm rocking two sets, one carbon and one alloy. They have been great and trouble free, until a few days ago when I broke a spoke on the rear wheel of the carbon set.

    I remember tangling with a rock and a while later after some significant lateral stress a tire rub (first time every for this bike/wheelset). A bit later still the ping ping ping of broken spoke on rear triangle. I don't fault the wheels, the spoke broke because I hit the rock. No problem.

    Until I go for repair. I brought the wheel to the local (only) Specialized dealer. It is a good shop, I mostly trust the wrenches though I do almost everything myself (other than wheels). They fix it. But there are tool marks all over the spokes now. Deep gouges right near many of the nipples. One was really bad, apparently the spoke was twisting so much the there was metal missing from the thing. You could feel a step off. There was so much spoke sticking though the nipple I think the thing was spinning because they ran out of threads. I brought the wheel back an they replaced the worst spoke no further charge but WTF. I know there is going to be issues with straight pull spokes spinning but this seems really sub par.

    What is the right way to hold that spoke without damaging it? I know MTB wheels take a beating but I left the place feeling like, albeit having no broken spokes, the wheel was in worse condition than when they got it.

    I haven't mounted it to see it spin but for god sakes it better be round.

    G

  77. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by fire_strom View Post
    Until I go for repair. I brought the wheel to the local (only) Specialized dealer. It is a good shop, I mostly trust the wrenches though I do almost everything myself (other than wheels). They fix it. But there are tool marks all over the spokes now. Deep gouges right near many of the nipples. One was really bad, apparently the spoke was twisting so much the there was metal missing from the thing. You could feel a step off. There was so much spoke sticking though the nipple I think the thing was spinning because they ran out of threads. I brought the wheel back an they replaced the worst spoke no further charge but WTF. I know there is going to be issues with straight pull spokes spinning but this seems really sub par.
    Can you tell if they used a Roval spoke to replace the broken one? Or did they replace the spoke and nipple? If I would have let the bike shop replace my broken spoke they might have tried to thread a 2.0 mm spoke into the 1.8mm nipple. Glad I found that error myself. I had no trouble with the spoke spinning when I tensioned my replacement spoke.

  78. #278
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    Quote Originally Posted by fire_strom View Post
    I am a full on Roval lover. I'm rocking two sets, one carbon and one alloy. They have been great and trouble free, until a few days ago when I broke a spoke on the rear wheel of the carbon set.

    I remember tangling with a rock and a while later after some significant lateral stress a tire rub (first time every for this bike/wheelset). A bit later still the ping ping ping of broken spoke on rear triangle. I don't fault the wheels, the spoke broke because I hit the rock. No problem.

    Until I go for repair. I brought the wheel to the local (only) Specialized dealer. It is a good shop, I mostly trust the wrenches though I do almost everything myself (other than wheels). They fix it. But there are tool marks all over the spokes now. Deep gouges right near many of the nipples. One was really bad, apparently the spoke was twisting so much the there was metal missing from the thing. You could feel a step off. There was so much spoke sticking though the nipple I think the thing was spinning because they ran out of threads. I brought the wheel back an they replaced the worst spoke no further charge but WTF. I know there is going to be issues with straight pull spokes spinning but this seems really sub par.

    What is the right way to hold that spoke without damaging it? I know MTB wheels take a beating but I left the place feeling like, albeit having no broken spokes, the wheel was in worse condition than when they got it.

    I haven't mounted it to see it spin but for god sakes it better be round.

    G
    fire storm- Sorry you had such a bad experience! As many wheels are made with straightpull spokes these days, there are tools out there made for holding the spokes while truing/tensioning. The nicer tools have a softer metal in the "jaws" that grab a spoke without scratching/damaging it. We are actually making a tool right now which should be available in a month or so for shops to purchase, but I do know there are others out there. While I can't explain the reason for the shop's actions, I'm surprised they put in a spoke that was too long. Yes, if there were a lot of threads showing at the top of the nipple, it's quite possible the nipple was bottomed out on the threads. Everyone makes mistakes now and then, and if this is a good shop, I imagine they took the time to get it right when you brought it back and pointed out the error.

  79. #279
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    Joe, There is play in my front hub on my Roval Control SL 29 wheel.

    When clamped in my Whisky #9 fork, (maxle 15mm) the wheel has a rattle coming from the end caps and axle. You can feel it when moving the wheel right to left, and you can hear it rattle if you lift the bike up a couple inches and drop it onto the floor.

    The axle has play, and the drive side end cap has a lot of play too. Both are contributing to the overall play in the hub.

    I returned it for warranty earlier in the year and it came back unfixed. Now the play in the axle is causing expedited wear on the bearings, and now they will need to be replaced soon.

    Has is this a common issue with these hubs?
    Raised in a Chicken-Coop by Chickens

  80. #280
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    Hey Joe, I am still not clear wether to go for the 2014 Roval Control SL 29 or the 2013/2014 Roval Control Carbon 29.
    The overall weight is not that important for me, but I really would like to have fast wheels.
    Could you please specify the respective weight of the rims - as they are the significant rotating mass.
    That would be really great!

  81. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheepo5669 View Post
    Joe, There is play in my front hub on my Roval Control SL 29 wheel.

    When clamped in my Whisky #9 fork, (maxle 15mm) the wheel has a rattle coming from the end caps and axle. You can feel it when moving the wheel right to left, and you can hear it rattle if you lift the bike up a couple inches and drop it onto the floor.

    The axle has play, and the drive side end cap has a lot of play too. Both are contributing to the overall play in the hub.

    I returned it for warranty earlier in the year and it came back unfixed. Now the play in the axle is causing expedited wear on the bearings, and now they will need to be replaced soon.

    Has is this a common issue with these hubs?
    Sheepo- I've heard of this happening on some of these models, but warranty was able to fix them. I assume you took it to a shop for replacement, and they performed the service? if they were unable to fix it, you should have the shop return it to the service center to be fixed. You shouldn't have to put up with play in the bearings, especially after trying to have the problem fixed once already.

  82. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by bart_simpson View Post
    Hey Joe, I am still not clear wether to go for the 2014 Roval Control SL 29 or the 2013/2014 Roval Control Carbon 29.
    The overall weight is not that important for me, but I really would like to have fast wheels.
    Could you please specify the respective weight of the rims - as they are the significant rotating mass.
    That would be really great!
    Bart- We don't give out weights for individual components of the wheels, but I can tell you the weight difference of the rims in the wheels you are looking at is about 30-40g per rim. hope this helps.

  83. #283
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    Roval questions?

    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Bart- We don't give out weights for individual components of the wheels, but I can tell you the weight difference of the rims in the wheels you are looking at is about 30-40g per rim. hope this helps.
    That helps! Thx!

  84. #284
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    Roval questions?

    BTW, will there be any changes in 2014 to the Roval Control Trail SL 29 wheels?
    Do they also use the hookless rim now?

  85. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by bart_simpson View Post
    BTW, will there be any changes in 2014 to the Roval Control Trail SL 29 wheels?
    Do they also use the hookless rim now?
    Hi Bart- for model year '14, there are no changes to Control Trail SL's. Hookless beads are now on Control SL 29, Control Carbon 29, and Traverse SL 29. We're working on eventually changing all rims, but do not have the capacity to do all of them at once.

  86. #286
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    Roval questions?

    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hi Bart- for model year '14, there are no changes to Control Trail SL's. Hookless beads are now on Control SL 29, Control Carbon 29, and Traverse SL 29. We're working on eventually changing all rims, but do not have the capacity to do all of them at once.
    Thx for that quick feedback!
    I think everybody really appreciates your commitment!

    I am still considering what the right wheel for me will be, currently comparing the Control Carbon vs. the Trail SL (don't trust the 24/28 spokes on the Control SL)

    I just can't see the value proposition of the Trail SL over the Control Carbon: Trail SL is much more expensive, has the same weight and the Control Carbon wheel is as durable as the Trail SL (?) - ok, the Trail SL has a slightly better hub. But is that worth the extra price? IMHO no!

  87. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by bart_simpson View Post
    Thx for that quick feedback!
    I think everybody really appreciates your commitment!

    I am still considering what the right wheel for me will be, currently comparing the Control Carbon vs. the Trail SL (don't trust the 24/28 spokes on the Control SL)

    I just can't see the value proposition of the Trail SL over the Control Carbon: Trail SL is much more expensive, has the same weight and the Control Carbon wheel is as durable as the Trail SL (?) - ok, the Trail SL has a slightly better hub. But is that worth the extra price? IMHO no!
    Hey Bart, no problem, glad people are on here asking questions about the wheels! OK, about your wheel choice, there is about 110g weight difference between Control Carbon 29 and Control Trail SL 29. The Control Trail wheel would be something you might consider if you are looking to squeeze every gram out of your wheelset, as rotating weight is some of the best weight to shave off your bike. The Control Carbon wheels have rims that are a bit heavier, and the rear hub is a bit heavier. however, spokes are a little lighter on Control Carbon also. All that being said, the Control Carbon is one heck of a bargain for a nice performing carbon wheelset. If you are looking for true value, the Control Carbon would be the wheel to get.

  88. #288
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    Anyone know how tough the 26" Traverse SLs are? I have them on my Stumpjumper Evo, but I was curious how they would hold up at a bike park (Whistler, Stevens Pass etc.) on my Enduro Evo.

    The traverse SL are so light and responsive I actually hate riding aluminum wheels now and would even consider a 2nd set if they can take the abuse. The aluminum Traverse are Spec'd on the Enduro Evo Expert, so I'm thinking the carbon ones might be ok to use.
    14 Aurum, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  89. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    Anyone know how tough the 26" Traverse SLs are? I have them on my Stumpjumper Evo, but I was curious how they would hold up at a bike park (Whistler, Stevens Pass etc.) on my Enduro Evo.

    The traverse SL are so light and responsive I actually hate riding aluminum wheels now and would even consider a 2nd set if they can take the abuse. The aluminum Traverse are Spec'd on the Enduro Evo Expert, so I'm thinking the carbon ones might be ok to use.
    Mr. Lynch- I have to laugh at your statement "...I actually hate riding aluminum wheels now..."! The reason why is when we started developing carbon wheels here a number of years ago, we all started field testing them, and instantly all of us turned into carbon wheel snobs!! I can sympathize with your situation. Ok, so hopefully some Traverse SL 26" owners will chime in here, but in my opinion, whether you can use them on your Enduro Expert Evo kind of depends on your riding style, terrain, and tire choice. If you are not dinging/denting your alloy rims on the Evo, then you might be ok with the carbon wheels on there. If you are running thicker casing tires like Specialized GRID or DH casing, this will also help protect the rims. Where exactly are you riding?

  90. #290
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    i use to laugh at the thought of carbon wheels, but after riding them for the past 9 months I'm sold on the idea!
    I've rode some pretty rugged terrain on them and had zero issues.

    I've rode my Enduro Evo 3x this season up at Whistler and had zero issues on both the stock Status wheels and a set of Traverse ELs. We pretty much ride all the trails up there and tend to switch back and forth between flowlines and techlines. I'm not sure what's tougher on a rim though, casing a big jump on Aline, or nailing a rock on a double black tech trail. I've done plenty of both without breaking spokes or dinging a rim. As for tires I'm running the stock Butcher SX.

    I've tried the Traverse SL on the Enduro Evo on local trails and they feel amazing and have been curious about how they would hold up to a day at Whistler. Not sure if a carbon rim is better or worse at handling the abuse.
    14 Aurum, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  91. #291
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    What is the ERD of the Roval Control Carbon Trail SL 29 142+? I searched all over the wheel but I couldn't find it. I want to guess 601. correct?
    I like to hug trees at FULL SPEED!
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  92. #292
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    i use to laugh at the thought of carbon wheels, but after riding them for the past 9 months I'm sold on the idea!
    I've rode some pretty rugged terrain on them and had zero issues.

    I've rode my Enduro Evo 3x this season up at Whistler and had zero issues on both the stock Status wheels and a set of Traverse ELs. We pretty much ride all the trails up there and tend to switch back and forth between flowlines and techlines. I'm not sure what's tougher on a rim though, casing a big jump on Aline, or nailing a rock on a double black tech trail. I've done plenty of both without breaking spokes or dinging a rim. As for tires I'm running the stock Butcher SX.

    I've tried the Traverse SL on the Enduro Evo on local trails and they feel amazing and have been curious about how they would hold up to a day at Whistler. Not sure if a carbon rim is better or worse at handling the abuse.
    Mr Lynch- personally I think rock impacts are harder on carbon rims than casing jumps, but I don't have any evidence to show that. If you case something hard enough, it will still break. If you are not denting your alloy rims, you will probably be ok with running the carbon rims.

  93. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mazukea View Post
    What is the ERD of the Roval Control Carbon Trail SL 29 142+? I searched all over the wheel but I couldn't find it. I want to guess 601. correct?
    Mazuke- because we engineer wheels to be built as a system, it's our policy to not provide information that encourages rebuilding rims/hubs into other components.

  94. #294
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    Can I get a 9mm through axle conversion kit for my Control SL E5 26" wheels?

  95. #295
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    Specialized doesnt sell a 9mm though axle endcap for roval wheels. Your only option is to have a machine shop drill out a 9mm qr end cap to fit the 9mm thru axle.
    14 Aurum, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  96. #296
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    Now to find some 9mm through axle QR's...

  97. #297
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    Roval questions?

    Quote Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
    Now to find some 9mm through axle QR's...
    Check out Novatec thru-QR skewers. Unless you like the more expensive, but easier to get in the USA; DT Swiss 9mm thru-RWS skewer.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  98. #298
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    I currently have the Roval Control 142+ Alloy's that came with my 2013 Epic Expert Carbon. I'm wondering how much of a difference I'd get going to the Carbon SL's (2014 version specifically)?

    I only ride xc, and am fairly easy on my components (hit my bravery limit before the bike limit on the rougher stuff), though I'm closer to the weight limit than I'd like.

    I'm not so much looking at them for the lighter wieght (which would be nice), but in just how much of a difference in handling and ride they'd make. I'm wondering the difference between my current alloy ones, and the 142 or 142+ versions of the SL (I'm undecided on which I'd go for at the moment, so want to see if the 142 would be much of an improvement by themselves, or really only the 142+ version).

    Probably going to get them anyway, but just currious.

  99. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by gc49 View Post
    I currently have the Roval Control 142+ Alloy's that came with my 2013 Epic Expert Carbon. I'm wondering how much of a difference I'd get going to the Carbon SL's (2014 version specifically)?

    I only ride xc, and am fairly easy on my components (hit my bravery limit before the bike limit on the rougher stuff), though I'm closer to the weight limit than I'd like.

    I'm not so much looking at them for the lighter wieght (which would be nice), but in just how much of a difference in handling and ride they'd make. I'm wondering the difference between my current alloy ones, and the 142 or 142+ versions of the SL (I'm undecided on which I'd go for at the moment, so want to see if the 142 would be much of an improvement by themselves, or really only the 142+ version).

    Probably going to get them anyway, but just currious.
    gc49- I know you're not so concerned about the weight, but the huge weight difference actually makes a huge difference in the ride quality. you'll be able to accelerate much quicker, pick up over logs/trail obstacles easier, etc. The stiffness difference will also be apparent right away. At this point it sounds cliché since you hear it in marketing about many products, but a carbon wheel upgrade will dramatically change the way your bike rides.

  100. #300
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    Hi Joe:
    Will the specialized roval bearing tool S125300013 service the REAR hubs as well as the front? If not, is there another tool for servicing the rear hubs?

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