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  1. #1
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    Rim drilling and tubless

    Quick, possibly dumb question relating to my first tubeless conversion*.

    Why drill the inner wall of your rim when converting to tubeless? Instructions say "The valve stem hole needs to be enlarged to make inflation easier." but doesn't really say why. Just looking at the rim strip, I don't see anything about it that would need a wider hole. Also says, "If you choose not to drill your rim the rim strip will work but inflation can be more difficult." but again doesn't say why. My inner hand-wringer/explanation-needer doesn't like this.

    Thanks, y'alls.



    *WTB Laserdisc Trail 29er + Continental X-King ProTection 2.2

  2. #2
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    A tubeless valve is around 8mm (I'm sure this varies with different brands) and is bigger than a presta valve (6mm) on a tube.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by forge55b View Post
    A tubeless valve is around 8mm (I'm sure this varies with different brands) and is bigger than a presta valve (6mm) on a tube.
    Didn't know this. Is the larger size due to the removable core?

  4. #4
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    Huh? A "tubeless valve" is a presta valve. I have presta valves cut off of old road tubes as my "tubeless valve" on my Enve wheels, my Stans wheels, and I used to have them on a pair of UST Mavics, too.

  5. #5
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    I guess I should have been specific. I'm not talking about the actual valve core part but I guess the base and it is actually the inner part of the rim that you are drilling so that it seats correctly with the rim/rim tape/strip whatever the setup requires.

    If it is a tubeless ready rim, you don't do any drilling.

    Oh and you mentioned you are trying this on the WTB Laserdisc which has a channel in the middle right? I think I remember people having to fill that channel and running a strip to make it work but doing all that, you might as well just run a tube.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by forge55b View Post
    Oh and you mentioned you are trying this on the WTB Laserdisc which has a channel in the middle right? I think I remember people having to fill that channel and running a strip to make it work but doing all that, you might as well just run a tube.
    Yeah, I've read about some of the difficulties with the Laserdisc rims. I'm planning on using Velox rim tape, hoping that will take care of the problem with the channel - that failing, I also saw weather stripping mentioned. Why do you say might as well run a tube?

    FWIW, a big reason I'm going to try this is a race coming up in May. Word is that the trail is famous for flatting due to the number of cactus around. Was told to not even bother unless you're running tubeless or tubes + sealant. Also thought it would be interesting to try out.

  7. #7
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    I was just thinking that with the combination of the tire (Conti's that aren't UST don't work too well) and the rim which you already know the issues you will have to overcome, just doesn't seem to be very optimal to go tubeless on.

    You can always try and I hope it all works out but I would personally be wary of potential issues, burping, etc. And going with some tire liners, thick tubes and sealant might work better for your setup.

    Also note that I am in no way an expert on tubeless setups so if anyone has a correction on anything I'm saying, please chime in.

  8. #8
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    I have nothing better to do tonight (ordered the kit in a fit of compulsive buying - it arrived today). Gonna give it a shot, even if I have to resort to the Gorilla tape method.

    ENTERTAINING/IRRITATING GRIPE: The Stan's box recommends the Cross Country 29er kit for the WTB Laser Disc Trail 29er rims... the website recommends the All Mountain rim strips, due to the aforementioned rim channel issue.

    I bought it based on the box recommendations (cross country).


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