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  1. #1
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    New question here. Repair for a tubeless tire?

    I've managed to puncture two tubeless-ready tires this summer. Both times, I think I must have hit a sharp, square-edged rock on the middle of the tread (not the sidewalls.) I run Stans, but on both occasions, the Stans failed to seal the puncture, even though I'd swear that the puncture size was well below the 1/4th inch size that Stan's claims to seal. (Well, the Stan's would seal at first, but upon either pumping the tire back up or trying to ride the tire, the Stan's seal would blow out and the tire would start spraying Stans and air again.)

    The first time, I wasn't really concerned and just bought a new tire. However, this last time, it happened on a relatively new Specialized The Captain Control that has a LOT of tread life left in it. Are there any products out there that will permanently repair punctures in tubeless-ready tires? I really don't want to go have to drop another $45 - $50 on a tire!!

  2. #2
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    I've had to repair a Specialized Purgatory 2 times. I repaired it like patching a tube. Repair the inside of the tire.

  3. #3
    Back of the pack fat guy
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockymtnrider
    Repair the inside of the tire.
    With what product? I'm assuming a regular patch kit type patch isn't going to be strong enough and likely would detach once the sealant is re-added to the tire. I've seen the Velox patch kit for tubular (road) tires, but not much else or anything specifically made for tubeless moutain bike tires.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Earthpig
    I've managed to puncture two tubeless-ready tires this summer. Both times, I think I must have hit a sharp, square-edged rock on the middle of the tread (not the sidewalls.) I run Stans, but on both occasions, the Stans failed to seal the puncture, even though I'd swear that the puncture size was well below the 1/4th inch size that Stan's claims to seal. (Well, the Stan's would seal at first, but upon either pumping the tire back up or trying to ride the tire, the Stan's seal would blow out and the tire would start spraying Stans and air again.)

    The first time, I wasn't really concerned and just bought a new tire. However, this last time, it happened on a relatively new Specialized The Captain Control that has a LOT of tread life left in it. Are there any products out there that will permanently repair punctures in tubeless-ready tires? I really don't want to go have to drop another $45 - $50 on a tire!!
    The best I have used was a Rema Tip-Top bicycle tire patch kit, but I have not seen it offered for a few years.

    It had thin fiber reinforced patches (look almost like their tube patches), and a special high strength glue.

    Was not cheap with a wholesale price around $6 for 3 patches and glue.
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  5. #5
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    Park Tools has a good general how to for tubeless tires here:
    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=154

    Easy to follow with clear pictures.

  6. #6
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    Why not patch it like a regular car tire?
    Rule number 2: Stay in the middle of the trail.

  7. #7
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    You can use a glueless patch for a temp fix. I have one that has been holding for a couple of months, but they aren't permanent and the stan's will eventually get under it to open back up the leak.

    Next best is a rema tube patch kit, the glue and patch kind.

    Hutchinson also had a tire patch kit IIRC. Never have seen one in person.

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    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  8. #8
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    Couple of drops of super-glue on hole on the inside of the tire.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadKarma145
    Why not patch it like a regular car tire?
    Because it is not a car tire.
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  10. #10
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    A guy on ebay sells an automotive type plug kit for ust tires. I bought one and it works pretty well.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by lucifer
    A guy on ebay sells an automotive type plug kit for ust tires. I bought one and it works pretty well.
    Works fine for a puncture. Earthpig has a cut, compromised casing structure. A plug doe not fix that.
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  12. #12
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    Found this tire repair link too. http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/tubeless-fix.htm

    I'll try the Rema route. The key seems to be to really clean and dry the tire first, add the patch, and then let the patch dry for a couple of days.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Earthpig
    Found this tire repair link too. http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/tubeless-fix.htm

    I'll try the Rema route. The key seems to be to really clean and dry the tire first, add the patch, and then let the patch dry for a couple of days.
    That is still instructions for a puncture repair using a standard tube patch. For most of the patches to bond permanently--or at all--the sealant (if any) must be removed completely from the area to be patched.
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  14. #14
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    The guy who mentioned superglue has a point. I always carry superglue in my pack for trailside emergencies to seal holes that sealant won't.

    That said, I haven't tested superglue on something as big as a tread or sidewall cut. I had similar cut to the OP's, and for a permanent fix used an inside out plug/patch combo. The plug fills the hole, the patch seals the tire. Better than a patch only fix.

    http://www.jpcycles.com/product/217-...utm_medium=cse

    http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...i_sku=16910018

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  15. #15
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    So how the F do you pump it back up with your pocket sized pump? Sealing after a flat is a breeze, setting the bead is a day long process in the field and many walk home.
    Too many bikes, and just enough time to ride them.

  16. #16
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    I've used the Rema tubeless patch kit, and it works pretty good...

    the patches are kinda thick so they won't blow out.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    Because it is not a car tire.
    Thanx for your in depth explanation.

    Earthpigs link (http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/tubeless-fix.htm) shows what is basically the same thing as auto tire patching except that no rubber is removed from the inside of the tire. I've seen car tire patch kits which would probably work a little better because the patches are thick enuff, and the glue should bond perfectly. not sure how long the bonding process would take tho.
    Rule number 2: Stay in the middle of the trail.

  18. #18
    dwt
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    Quote Originally Posted by proto2000
    So how the F do you pump it back up with your pocket sized pump? Sealing after a flat is a breeze, setting the bead is a day long process in the field and many walk home.
    If you unseat your bead after flatting, you better have a tube in your pack. Same if you puncture so bad neither sealant nor superglue will seal the hole. And in my case, also carry tire levers, because despite what other people say, I can never get my UST tires on or off the rims without levers. Plus, you won't have any soapy water on the trail either.

    Tube up, insert boot if necessary, pump up, ride home, repair the tire in your shop.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by proto2000
    So how the F do you pump it back up with your pocket sized pump? Sealing after a flat is a breeze, setting the bead is a day long process in the field and many walk home.



    It is often much easier to seat the beads after the tire has been mounted for awhile . It is probably best to test this in your driveway rather than waiting to find out you cannot re seat the beads in the field . A CO2 inflater may also help in the field .

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by proto2000
    So how the F do you pump it back up with your pocket sized pump? Sealing after a flat is a breeze, setting the bead is a day long process in the field and many walk home.

    Pop in a tube

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadKarma145
    Thanx for your in depth explanation.

    Earthpigs link (http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/tubeless-fix.htm) shows what is basically the same thing as auto tire patching except that no rubber is removed from the inside of the tire. I've seen car tire patch kits which would probably work a little better because the patches are thick enuff, and the glue should bond perfectly. not sure how long the bonding process would take tho.
    You did not specify which car tire repair method. This is the one I usually see: http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixit.../tire_plug.htm
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwt
    If you unseat your bead after flatting, you better have a tube in your pack. Same if you puncture so bad neither sealant nor superglue will seal the hole. And in my case, also carry tire levers, because despite what other people say, I can never get my UST tires on or off the rims without levers. Plus, you won't have any soapy water on the trail either.

    Tube up, insert boot if necessary, pump up, ride home, repair the tire in your shop.
    You need to work on your technique. No tools are needed to mount or remove tubeless tires:
    http://mtbtires.com/site2/tech/77-ho...-removal-video
    http://mtbtires.com/site2/tech/38-ge...o-mount-a-tire

    Hutchinson makes a tire lever with a soap reservoir and sponge for trailside bead lubing. work well.
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    You did not specify which car tire repair method. This is the one I usually see: http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixit.../tire_plug.htm
    I said patch it, not plug it. I asked because I haven't gone tubeless yet, though I have the tires, strips & sealant to do so.
    Rule number 2: Stay in the middle of the trail.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadKarma145
    I said patch it, not plug it. I asked because I haven't gone tubeless yet, though I have the tires, strips & sealant to do so.
    You still do not want to use a car tire patch as they are thicker than a bicycle tire casing. Car tires are MUCH tougher, thicker, heavier than bike tires, if you have not noticed.

    The utah... method is fine for a puncture (though you should remove the sealant, not just dry it), but not for a cut, as the OP has.
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  25. #25
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    I have sewed sliced tires back together.

    1st: I sew the slice using dental tape.
    2nd: I throw on a large patch.
    3rd: I cover the patch with duct tape.
    4th: I cross my fingers and hope that it work.
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  26. #26
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    The two times that I have needed it I used the Hutchinson kit:



    my last cut was a 1/4th inch in a Notubes Raven. Holds up nicely (from what I can tell from the outside).
    Last edited by quax; 08-14-2010 at 02:46 AM.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by quax
    The two times that I have needed it I used the Hutchinson kit:



    my last cut was a 1/4th inch in a Notubes Raven. Holds up nicely (from what I can tell from the outside).
    This is the kit I was directed to at the LBS when I went in to buy the Rema kit. Basically, it's 4 thick patches and some superglue. For $15. WTF?

    Last Friday, I dried out and cleaned out all the Stans from the inside of the tire. I found the cut/puncture (about 1/4th of an inch or less in size, so the Stan's SHOULD have sealed it, per the Stan's claims) and applied the superglue. Waited about 30 seconds and put on the patch. Apparently, either I used too much glue or didn't wait long enough for the glue to cure sufficiently, because the patch refused to stick initially and I ruined the patch. I dried the tire off again, added a smaller amount of glue, waited longer (maybe closer to a minute) for the glue to cure, added the patch and held it together for another minute or two. Then I placed a heavy object on the tire for another 15 minutes. At that point, the patch seemed to be sticking.

    I let it dry until Sunday afternoon, and I remounted the tire on the wheel, added my normal 2 doses of Stans, and started airing it up. I got to about 70 psi with my compressor (obviously to get the bead to seal) and I noticed a little bit of Stans coming out of the puncture. I spun the wheel and the Stans stopped leaking. Unfortunately, the bead had not sealed all the way so I added a bit more air. About the time when the bead finally popped fully onto the rim (round about 90 psi), the Stans started leaking again, but a bigger leak this time. I spun and rotated the tire a few times and then let the pressure out to about 30 psi and the Stans leak stopped. I rode the tire later in the afternoon and there was no leaking. I checked the tire today and it's still holding the same pressure.

    So - does the Hutchinson kit work? Yes. Is it compatible with or designed to be used with sealant like Stan's? Unsure. Am I confident that it will hold? Not necessarily. Is it a value? No. Does it cost less than a new tire? Yes.
    Last edited by Earthpig; 08-17-2010 at 10:10 AM.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Earthpig
    This is the kit I was directed to at the LBS when I went in to buy the Rema kit. Basically, it's 4 thick patches and some superglue. For $15. WTF?

    Last Friday, I dried out and cleaned out all the Stans from the inside of the tire. I found the cut/puncture (about 1/4th of an inch or less in size, so the Stan's SHOULD have sealed it, per the Stan's claims) and applied the superglue. Waited about 30 seconds and put on the patch. Apparently, either I used too much glue or didn't wait long enough for the glue to cure sufficiently, because the patch refused to stick initially and I ruined the patch. I dried the tire off again, added a smaller amount of glue, waited longer (maybe closer to a minute) for the glue to cure, added the patch and held it together for another minute or two. Then I placed a heavy object on the tire for another 15 minutes. At that point, the patch seemed to be sticking.

    I let it dry until Sunday afternoon, and I remounted the tire on the wheel, added my normal 2 doses of Stans, and started airing it up. I got to about 70 psi with my compressor (obviously to get the bead to seal) and I noticed a little bit of Stans coming out of the puncture. I spun the wheel and the Stans stopped leaking. Unfortunately, the bead had not sealed all the way so I added a bit more air. About the time when the bead finally popped fully onto the rim (round about 90 psi), the Stans started leaking again, but a bigger leak this time. I spun and rotated the tire a few times and then let the pressure out to about 30 psi and the Stans leak stopped. I rode the tire later in the afternoon and there was no leaking. I checked the tire today and it's still holding the same pressure.

    So - does the Hutchinson kit work? Yes. Is it compatible with or designed to be used with sealant like Stan's? Unsure. Am I confident that it will hold? Not necessarily. Is it a value? No. Does it cost less than a new tire? Yes.
    I have had ZERO success with the Hutchinson repair kit. Could not get the patches to stick at all. And this was on a Hutchinson tubeless tire used with Hutchinson tubeless sealant.

    I should have tried a normal patch cement but used up the patches before I thought of that.
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  29. #29
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    IMO the best and easiest tubeless repair kit is this one from Weldtite:

    http://www.weldtite.co.uk/productdet...epair-kit.aspx

    very easy to use: all you have to do is to plug the repair rope into the tire hole!

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    I have had ZERO success with the Hutchinson repair kit. Could not get the patches to stick at all. And this was on a Hutchinson tubeless tire used with Hutchinson tubeless sealant.

    I should have tried a normal patch cement but used up the patches before I thought of that.

    Huh I used the Hutchison system...worked fine....

    Well no better than the Generic MEC patch kit, that also works fine...

    The Hutchison Superglue works about the same as any other superglue...All superglue requires water to cure...normally 30 % relative humidity is enough, but if you clean the surface with say acetone then you should really put some water back down.

    I wish someone made a little syringe full of superglue with a tiny needle...like a diabetic needle...

    BTW I ran across a different kind of superglue (Gorilla Glue)...it expands 3 to 4 times its volume on curing...(you need to make sure one of the surfaces is wet with water).

  31. #31
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    I really had zero problems with the Hutchinson kit. The patches would stick without a problem. As instucted in the manual I cleaned it, degreased it, applied some glue and pressed the patch on the glue for a minute. That was all. Held firmly without a problem. No leaking of Stans visible. Seems to be working for some weeks now.

    In the past I've also used standard patches, would work just as well. The Hutchinsons were just a few Euros over here. $15 is quite hefty

  32. #32
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    I've used this on a Bonty XR4 on 4-5mm rip in between threads Panaracer Tubeless Patch Kit - seems similar to auto type kit.
    Typically punctured on 1st outing, 1/2 hour into ride - glass or v sharp rock, it has held up well though since.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by taupe
    IMO the best and easiest tubeless repair kit is this one from Weldtite:

    http://www.weldtite.co.uk/productdet...epair-kit.aspx

    very easy to use: all you have to do is to plug the repair rope into the tire hole!
    Does not work on a cut.
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  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by quax
    I really had zero problems with the Hutchinson kit. The patches would stick without a problem. As instucted in the manual I cleaned it, degreased it, applied some glue and pressed the patch on the glue for a minute. That was all. Held firmly without a problem. No leaking of Stans visible. Seems to be working for some weeks now.

    In the past I've also used standard patches, would work just as well. The Hutchinsons were just a few Euros over here. $15 is quite hefty
    I followed the instructions, too. The patches never came close to sticking to the tire.
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  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    Does not work on a cut.

    Your post #28 implies you could not get it to stick glue problem.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    I followed the instructions, too. The patches never came close to sticking to the tire.

    Interesting you must be doing something different than the others here....

    Or you got a bad patch kit???

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffscott
    Your post #28 implies you could not get it to stick glue problem.
    Ummm...the Weldtite repair kit is nothing like the Hutchinson kit.

    THE best bicycle tire repair kit is the Rema one I mentioned early on.
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  38. #38
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    I just repaired a tire on Saturday using a Rema patch kit. It worked fine. It was just a regular patch for a tube. I think the rubber cement that it uses works best. Just wait the 5 minutes before adding the patch.

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  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    Ummm...the Weldtite repair kit is nothing like the Hutchinson kit.Post 28 you refer only to the hutchison kit

    THE best bicycle tire repair kit is the Rema one I mentioned early on.

    Well that is based partly on the fact that you can't seem to figure out how to get the hutchison kit to work....

    That alot of other people seem to be able to do....

    But whatever....in most things there is no one best thing....just a bunch of pluses and minuses.

  41. #41
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    Weldtite

    I have used the Weldtite kit a number of times(even found aftermarket spare plugs from another company at my lbs)
    The application was usually where the tread surface (NOT sidewall) sustained a cut near the base of a side knob.
    Stans/my own solution mix will only seal this until the knob moves during riding... and the tire goes flat agin. The Weldtite plugs are a lasting solution even if it doesn't look that great.
    I have also used thick patches and vulcanizing glue to fix cuts. After throrough prepping and cleaning of the area I heat it up with a hairdryer to make sure it is completely dry and do the patching while the tire is still warm.
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  42. #42
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    I think my primary problem was not waiting enough time to let the glue dry, in addition to using too much glue. (Made it easier to sniff, though....)

    Still holding air, but (1) I mounted the stupid thing backwards (done that more than once - I should sniff the glue AFTER mounting the tire) and (2) am going to move it to the front anyway. We'll see how the remount and airing up the second time works.

  43. #43
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    am I the only one here who thinks 90PSI is way too much pressure?
    40 is usually fine 50 tops

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    Quote Originally Posted by quax
    I really had zero problems with the Hutchinson kit. The patches would stick without a problem. As instucted in the manual I cleaned it, degreased it, applied some glue and pressed the patch on the glue for a minute. That was all. Held firmly without a problem. No leaking of Stans visible. Seems to be working for some weeks now.

    In the past I've also used standard patches, would work just as well. The Hutchinsons were just a few Euros over here. $15 is quite hefty
    I also had no problems with the Hutchinson kit, clean ,Dry ,light sand , apply glue and patch, wait a couple of hours and added stans, no issues.
    yesterday I noticed my rear tire had 2 knobs hanging and a big patch of tread about the size of a quarter all hanging loose, right before a ride. I glued them all down with the Hutchinson glue and 5 mins later was on the trail. 9 miles of rocks a roots later and mostly still holding. I wouldnt ride it except for an emergency but I was pretty impressed

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan0
    am I the only one here who thinks 90PSI is way too much pressure?
    40 is usually fine 50 tops
    I thought that was a red flag as well.
    There is not much choice between rotten apples.

  46. #46
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    Anyone used this kit? (Novara from REI):

    http://www.rei.com/product/747197


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    Hey guys, I'm bringing up this old thread to help others if they're in this situation.

    Right before the start of the 'cross season, I ran over a large piece of glass, literally one day after I bought my Hutchinson Piranah tire. I was PISSED.

    After reading this thread, I went to the Park website, followed the instructions and the patch job has held through 5 races and a ton of training rides, including some mountain bike trail riding on rocks.

    If you following the directions EXACTLY how Park tells you (no rushing), you should be fine.

  48. #48
    mtbr member
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    I used an auto radial tire patch and it held fine. Cheaper than most of those other bike patch kits too.

    BTW, some nicer shops will allow returns on Specialized tires even if punctured on the sidewalls.
    We Ride In God's Country!

  49. #49
    Cut Casing Whisperer
    Reputation: Mr.P's Avatar
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    Feb 2005
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    I used the park method but with superglue on a small casing cuts:
    - Get very clean
    - scuff
    - superglue tube patch

    I've done it both inside and outside (24 hour race) and it held up for months of racing & training.

    P

  50. #50
    Trail Junkie
    Reputation: dubdryver's Avatar
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    Mar 2006
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    I always just carry a spare tube and a small amount of duct tape re-wrapped around a part of a pen that I cut down. Duct Tape, well thats a no brainer..a million and one uses, but in this application. I will clean the stans off the inside of the tire...usually w/ my shirt and some water, and tape the inside with duct tape if its big enough to warrant needing it, and just install the tube. It will get me out of the trail, it will get me through many rides more or until I actually have time to repair the tire.

    As for that fix, I've sewed, I've glued, and I've taped..somehow it always ends up working until I am due to replace the tire..and then sometimes even after that.

    A company called Gamma makes a kevlar tape that is very plyable, and very strong. Its used for the top of the heads on tennis racquets from getting scuffed. That actually works decent too..probably better than duct tape, and I also use it on my chainstays to protect from chain slaps.
    SC Tallboy C
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    Spech Tricross Expert
    Raleigh RX 1.0

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