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  1. #1
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    RePacking Hub Bearings? - It's EASY - a photo tutorial (cup/cone)

    I was repacking my rear hub, because it had been over 6 months and I needed something to tinker on.
    Just after I started, I recalled a couple threads on people who were wondering what to do with their cup and cone style hubs - so I thought I'd take some pictures and do a little write-up.

    This 'tutorial' is for the "backyard mechanic". As you'll see, I do all the work with out a nice-clean work bench and in less than 'sanitary' conditions - like many of us do!
    I'm sure there are more 'professional' tutorials out there, so go and check those out if you want.

    Though only the rear hub is shown (Shimano XT), the same applies to the front as well. (If applicable) - Please read through entirely, as many tools/ aids are introduced as we go.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Let's get crackin!

    First, do all the necessary stuff to get your hub ready to be worked on:
    - Remove wheel from bike (DUH!), and remove your cassette and dust cover to gain access to all the nuts and bolts.

    'Proper' tools and parts that are taken off:
    From L to R
    - Lock-ring tool
    - Dust cover (if applicable) - NDS or non-drive side
    - Chain-whip - you can make your own with one side of an old wire-crimper tool - just pin a length of chain on the business end and you're set! ('business-end' goes in between cogs)
    - Big ol' wrench (for cassette lock-ring tool)
    - Cassette lock ring
    - Cassette
    - Not-Pictured ...(Magnet & more later)


    Identify the parts you need to loosen:
    To gain access to all the goodies (bearings) inside, you'll need to remove the axle and the nuts that hold that axle in your hub. The side you need to work on first is the NDS as the DS (Drive-side) nuts are partially hidden by the cassette carrier.
    There are two nuts per side; a 'Cone nut' which presses against the bearings and is also a race; and a 'Jam nut' (incorrectly called a lock-nut) which prevents the cone nut from loosening by compression.
    -NDS - this is the side to loosen. You need to loosen the 'compression' on only one side.


    -DS - notice that there is no cone-nut visible...


    Some more tools/ equipment required...(clock-wise from left)
    - "Cone" wrenches - (pictured are a:13-14mm, 15-16mm and 17-18mm)
    [it this tut., we'll use a 15mm (cone) and a 17mm (jam)]
    *front hubs typically use a smaller combo ie. 13mm & 15mm respectively.
    - Grease - I use a heavy 'Moly' (molybdenum) grease which is resistant to wear and water.
    If you notice that the packaging says "Disc Brake" on it, don't let that tempt you - don't use this grease to quiet a noisy rotor! - also notice that below, it says "wheel bearing", so that's a relief. (any good grease will do, moly and water-resistant are preferred by me - some like lithium-based...to each his own)
    - Air compressor nozzle - helpful for getting pesky bearing out from the axle housing or drying/ blowing and solvents off .
    - Clean rags - yeah, they're clean and you use them for what ever need arises - not a whole lot to explain there.


    Decompressing your nuts - what a relief!
    - with the applicable wrench (15mm), hold the cone-nut firm while turning the jam-nut (17mm) counter-clockwise.
    (In this pic, it looks as if I'm pressing down and tightening - I'm not. I'm pulling the jam-nut 'towards me'.)


    Remove your nuts, but don't spill your balls
    - After you break the compression, loosen/remove the jam-nut and any washers.
    *Before you remove the cone nut, it's a good idea to hold the axle firmly against the DS in an upright fashion (pictured). This will prevent any bearings from accidentally spilling out.


    -Cone-nut successfully removed... you haven't let go of the axle yet have you? and kept pressure on the DS bearings??


    Remove the axle
    Using a container of some sort ...smaller coffee can, tupperware, etc (I like old peanut butter jars because of the screw-on lids) and place it over the side you just removed the nuts from.
    In one quick motion, flip the wheel over and set. Then pull out the axle.


    Clean the axle off w/ a rag and clean any extraneous gunk off of the hub w/ a q-tip.
    **Leave the nuts on the axle alone (barring cleaning) as they will keep your axle/ hub alignment where they were. You don't really want to go and remove them and then try to figure out how far down the axle shaft they belong if you don't need to.(check races for pitting/ wear)


    Get the balls out!
    -Using a small screw-driver, prise out the bearings and let them fall through the hub's axle-shaft into the container below.
    *NOTE* - There should be 9 (nine) 1/4" bearings per side for a rear hub and 10 3/16" bearings per side for the front hub. *(This is 'usual')*
    -Carefully flip the wheel over and do the same process for the other side.
    When you're done releasing the balls from their prison and have liberated them to their cup., Double check your count - often, balls will 'hide' in the axle housing. Use a screwdriver or simply blow them out with a shot of air. (Check your balls for pitting/ roughness - you can get new ones at a bearing shop or maybe your LBS)


    Clean the races (both sides)
    - Using Q-tips or a rag bunched around the end of a screwdriver, wipe all the races (cups) clean. You shouldn't have to use much or any solvent (I use mineral spirits) - what ever you do, don't drench the hub- if working on the rear especially.


    A Clean race!
    A really good time to look at the races - a severely pitted one can mean a new hub - a minor pit here or there or groove can mean a lot more miles by repacking.


    Clean your balls!...they're dirty
    Using your favorite solvent, (WD-40, Mineral Spirits, Simple Green, Soap & Water.... ..the list goes on), swoosh, yeah swoosh, the bearings around in that cool container that you put them in (see how nice PB jars are?) and dry them off/ or put into a lid to dry.
    (double-check your count! - those bastards love to escape after being confined for so long and being made to run circles )) - you'll notice(if you count) that there are only 16 balls - 2 shy of the required 18 (I found them later, cowering in a crack in the driveway )


    SO! Let's rebuild!
    First, notice the bearing count! - got-em - thanks Mr. Magnet!.
    -Get your grease and bearings and let's lube those balls!


    Packing races
    -Get a good dab of grease on your finger and swipe the cups... too much is better than not enough - It helps hold the bearings in.


    - A packed race...like Waltrip vs. Earnhart


    Pack/ Place the bearings
    -Dip a small screwdriver into your grease and use it to 'grab' a ball..


    -Place it into the cup and press it in...repeat for 'X' times - (In this case, 'X' = 9)


    - All balls in the cup...


    -Scoop any extra grease that pressed out while placing the balls. (Extra grease in the shaft does no good and adds weight - like 500wt/380? )


    -Scooped!


    - Clean out any ****/ grease from the dust-shield area...I have no idea what that area is officially called! - Use a Q-tip or a bunched rag as before like the cups.


    - Clean, packed and ready to rock!


    - Scoop any crud from the DS seal w/ a Q-tip.


    Tightening the hub...

    Double-check that the DS cone and jam nuts are tight. Hold the cone nut firm while pulling the jam-nut clockwise...go ahead and crank it really tight...even tighter! -
    this part is really non-adjustable later.


    - Carefully insert the axle through the hub as to not dislodge any bearings.
    - Hold it firmly in place as you screw on the cone-nut (finger tight)

    Did you forget the order of all the other pieces?
    - In general, the smaller pieces (washers/ spacers) go toward the cone nut and get bigger (in diameter) towards the jam-nut..
    For example, in this next pic, the pieces go in order from the 'top in my hand' to the 'axle' ;;- 1)Fat, but small spacer/washer; 2)Thin , but larger washer; 3) Jam-nut.
    -Put all the pieces on the axle and 'finger-tighten' them.


    With everything "finger tight", use a wrench to hold firm the opposite side (in this case - DS) and ($$) tighten down the cone nut on the closest side (NDS) until it just starts to bind*

    *- NOTE- Binding is when the axle wont spin smoothly when turned while holding the hub.
    If the axle has slop (vertically/ horizontally), tighten the cone nut some more.
    If the axle has no slop, but still spins easily, tighten it just a touch* more. *Over tighten a smidge. (over-tightening will be addressed in the next step)


    Cinching the nuts - it's a cinch!
    - Using the cone wrenches, 'kinda' hold firm the cone-nut (NDS) while turning the jam-nut (NDS) clockwise until tight.
    This action should loosen any binding in the hub as the cone-nut is pulled toward the jam-nut.
    If there is any binding still, repeat the above action - ($$), but to a lesser degree.
    If there is no binding, repeat the above section ($$), but to a slightly more aggressive degree.
    *=Judgment call - I can't tell you what's right in words - you gotta 'feel' it man!!

    - A "perfectly" tensioned hub will have : 0 (zero) binding) and negligible (you can barely feel it) slop; which the QR will pick up or close. (The QR will actually pull the cones a bit closer - not much)
    - When the wheel is on the frame/fork and you can still feel a wiggle...go to the previous tightening steps.

    You're done!

    HEY!!! you didn't forget about that dust cap did you?



    I hope this was easy to follow, because it's really easy to do!
    **REMEMBER TO CLEAN YOUR ROTOR!!! ( if applicable)**

    Remember not to rush, take it easy and everything will fall into place. -

    Good Luck!

    Oh, here's a pic "just because"... Chain is now clean and dry, just gotta put it on...Where is it?

    ...
    Last edited by highdelll; 08-02-2009 at 03:06 AM.
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  2. #2
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    If you have any constructive criticisms, or find any errors in my post, please PM me so I may fix it . Please don't post here with any errors or the like. I'd like to keep this concise if possible. I will edit the OP.

    Any general BS or comments in general, are fine for posting. - I'm fine w/ that
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  3. #3
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    bump

  4. #4
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    Awesome job highdell.

    Two things that I like to do.
    1) I like to take carb cleaner or brake cleaner and lightly spray the area and clean the hub etc. This way I'm not dealing with the mess and grime around the area. And when the wheel goes back together, it's nice and clean.
    2) I remove the brake rotor as well so I don't get greasy contamination on it.

    Aloha,
    g

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmats
    Awesome job highdell.

    Two things that I like to do.
    1) I like to take carb cleaner or brake cleaner and lightly spray the area and clean the hub etc. This way I'm not dealing with the mess and grime around the area. And when the wheel goes back together, it's nice and clean.
    2) I remove the brake rotor as well so I don't get greasy contamination on it.

    Aloha,
    g
    I thought about that too, it's just that the time involved for cleaning a rotor is so much quicker than removing and wearing bolts.

    I agree that I could've cleaned better... but hey - that's the backyard mechanics way!
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  6. #6
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    noice!
    and i'm diggin' yer chain whip!
    is that dupli-color on your rotor?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather
    is that dupli-color on your rotor?
    Actually, its this paint used for making "stained glass"
    It's a deep translucent red and looks pretty cool in the sun - hard to capture w/ the camera tho and when it's overcast
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  8. #8
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    Great write-up! Highdell, I was wondering which XT hub do you have? I have an M756 rear XT hub that I'm going to repack.

    Btw, can one use an adjustable wrench on the locknut? I don't think I have a 17mm cone wrench.

  9. #9
    CTB
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    A fellow MTBR member pointed me to this thread, and it looks like great information, Highdelll! However, I'm rebuilding my M756 hub because the Drive Side actually loosened on me. The NDS is still tight, however. This writeup is based on working only on the NDS. Any tips for what I can do with my reverse situation? Remove the freehub and just follow the same procedure? Thanks.

    PS: Nice MGB.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by djork
    Great write-up! Highdell, I was wondering which XT hub do you have? I have an M756 rear XT hub that I'm going to repack.

    Btw, can one use an adjustable wrench on the locknut? I don't think I have a 17mm cone wrench.
    I have the 756 hub as well
    You should be able to use an adjustable wrench on the outer (jam) nut.
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by CTB
    A fellow MTBR member pointed me to this thread, and it looks like great information, Highdelll! However, I'm rebuilding my M756 hub because the Drive Side actually loosened on me. The NDS is still tight, however. This writeup is based on working only on the NDS. Any tips for what I can do with my reverse situation? Remove the freehub and just follow the same procedure? Thanks.

    PS: Nice MGB.
    well, the DS side is shown right after it says "Tightening the hub..."
    you need to loosen the NDS nuts, pull out the axle, and then work on the DS nuts (be sure to note the amount of exposed threads), re-insert the axle, and the preload and tighten the NDS nuts again.
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  12. #12
    CTB
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    You know, sometimes things are so obvious that you just can't see them. Highdelll, I feel like an idiot for not thinking of the "remove the axle, loosen the other side, note the threads, start over" technique. Thanks for the prod in the right direction.

  13. #13
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    Great write-up and nice MGB. What year is that?

  14. #14
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    Nice job. How often do you re-build?

  15. #15
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    Great tutorial! I''ll be rereading this while I look for missing ball bearings when the snow falls. Thanks!

  16. #16
    offroader
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    nice!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vespasianus
    Great write-up and nice MGB. What year is that?
    haha,
    anywhere between 69 and 76 (different parts)
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by veritechy
    Nice job. How often do you re-build?
    about twice a year
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by CTB
    You know, sometimes things are so obvious that you just can't see them. Highdelll, I feel like an idiot for not thinking of the "remove the axle, loosen the other side, note the threads, start over" technique. Thanks for the prod in the right direction.
    no worries
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  20. #20
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    Excellent, thanks. I've done coaster brakes before but never messed with a freehub and plan on doing mine this weekend since it's dragging.

  21. #21
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    bump for a ?


    Had an XT hub for about 2 years and it hasn't been serviced, didn't realize it was a general maintnence type of thing

    Anyway, after I take off the NDS Jam Nut and the washers I can't get the Cone nut to come off. When I turn it the whole axle spins with it. How do I get that little bugger loose?

    I'm thinking the hub might be toasted, has a ****-load of miles on it. I still want to get it apart and have a look though.

    Thanks for any help

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikedeber
    bump for a ?


    Had an XT hub for about 2 years and it hasn't been serviced, didn't realize it was a general maintnence type of thing

    Anyway, after I take off the NDS Jam Nut and the washers I can't get the Cone nut to come off. When I turn it the whole axle spins with it. How do I get that little bugger loose?

    I'm thinking the hub might be toasted, has a ****-load of miles on it. I still want to get it apart and have a look though.

    Thanks for any help
    Use a 17mm cone-wrench on the DS jam-nut and a 15mm on the NDS cone
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  23. #23
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    Awesome tuturial! After seeing that though, gotta love cartridge bearings!!

  24. #24
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    Quick Tip!

    I received a suggestion to use a transparent or tinted grease such as Bel-Rays to more easily identify if the grease is contaminated.
    (I don't know why I can't edit the original post tho)
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by dexon555
    Awesome tuturial! After seeing that though, gotta love cartridge bearings!!
    +1

    Just a reminder for me why I will never use anything but Sealed cartridge bearing hubs for the rest of my days Good riddance to loose BB hubs !

  26. #26
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    is that a panaracer fire fr on your front? how do you like it? what do you run in the back?

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ocguy2004
    is that a panaracer fire fr on your front? how do you like it? what do you run in the back?
    they're both FRs
    best tire I've run so far - tho my experience with several types (like shiggy) is limited
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikedeber
    bump for a ?


    Had an XT hub for about 2 years and it hasn't been serviced, didn't realize it was a general maintnence type of thing

    Anyway, after I take off the NDS Jam Nut and the washers I can't get the Cone nut to come off. When I turn it the whole axle spins with it. How do I get that little bugger loose?

    I'm thinking the hub might be toasted, has a ****-load of miles on it. I still want to get it apart and have a look though.

    Thanks for any help

    It isn't really a general maintenance type thing. Most people can go quite a while. The shimano hubs seal better than most people give them credit for. This in no way takes away from the tutorial which was very good.

    Joe

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    highdelll and gang,

    Great thread here. I was pointed to it after I posted this recent question. My bike has M65 hubs and I'm not finding much information about them. Does anyone know if the process is the same (or even possible)?

    I want to attempt this and hopefully not make my hub issues worse.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by static_mass
    highdelll and gang,

    Great thread here. I was pointed to it after I posted this recent question. My bike has M65 hubs and I'm not finding much information about them. Does anyone know if the process is the same (or even possible)?

    I want to attempt this and hopefully not make my hub issues worse.
    Yo there SM ,
    On the thread you linked to, you were talking about the freehub.
    This tutorial does not address that specifically, but you do need to do all of the steps involved (barring the grease - but why the hell not once you get this far, right?) - i.e. remove everything (axle, bearings, etc).

    I, Personally, have never needed to remove the freehub. I did so just to see what it was all about some time ago. But I'd recommend just getting a 'freehub buddy' or similar.
    Taking the whole thing apart is fairly 'easy' for the mechanically inclined, but alot more time consuming - springs, pawls, etc.....it can be a mess.
    It's one of those things that, IMO, until you start having a prob, don't mess with it. Once you DO have a prob, however, take care of of it before sh!t explodes on ya/ or strip the engagement teeth.

    The hubs themselves can DEFINITELY use some PM (preventative maintenance) - Keep the 'outside' fine, and the inside should be fine too - kinda - IMO...don't try this at home...objects are bigger in mirror, etc...


    **EDIT** - Since I get bored from time to time - look forward to a photo shoot of a FH disassembly/reassembly
    Last edited by highdelll; 08-02-2010 at 01:15 PM.
    Honestly... ahh I give up

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    I think that's my fault for using the wrong terminology. I thought the whole thing was called a 'freehub' as opposed to a 'freewheel' type hub. Now I got it... the freehub is inside the hub.

    I'm not sure how deep I would need to go to fix the issue I'm having. Hopefully just what you documented here will do. As I understand it the 'freehub' might just be a drop-in off the shelf?

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by static_mass
    I think that's my fault for using the wrong terminology. I thought the whole thing was called a 'freehub' as opposed to a 'freewheel' type hub. Now I got it... the freehub is inside the hub.

    I'm not sure how deep I would need to go to fix the issue I'm having. Hopefully just what you documented here will do. As I understand it the 'freehub' might just be a drop-in off the shelf?
    NO doubt - terminology is a biotch...

    OK wait...the 'free-hub' and 'free-wheel' are EXTERNAL to the hub itself.
    THE FREEHUB IS NOT INSIDE THE HUB - except for the threaded bit that holds it on.
    The hub is just this: The (often) aluminum hunk of metal that has flanges with holes to hold the spokes and races (or pockets) that hold the bearings and axle.

    A 'Free-wheel' hub will have its cogs and 'ratchet-system' in one unit.
    A free-hub will have the 'ratchet-system' in a splined-barrel; on which a cog-set(cassette) can be slid on to.
    Honestly... ahh I give up

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    Hey highdelll, I think I'm going to tackle this some time next week. Do you ever have any issues reusing the seals? I only ordered ball bearings.

    I called Shimano and got the spec sheet for my hub (FH-RM65). It looks really similar and not too hard after following this thread. Would you say this whole process takes about an hour or so?

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by static_mass
    Hey highdelll, I think I'm going to tackle this some time next week. Do you ever have any issues reusing the seals? I only ordered ball bearings.

    I called Shimano and got the spec sheet for my hub (FH-RM65). It looks really similar and not too hard after following this thread. Would you say this whole process takes about an hour or so?
    No issues with reusing dustseals if they are in good shape (not cracked etc), though, the shape/style may vary.

    As far as time goes, yeah you should be able to do it within an hour - without rushing it. As you get more proficient, the times can drop down to 20-30 min.
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  35. #35
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    I finally got this done Thanks again for the instructions and help. It took me about 3 hours, but I had a hard time finding the right settings for the cone nut adjustment. All in all I would say it was pretty easy if you don't mind taking the wheel on and off a few times and loosening / re-tightening the nuts until you get it just right. Next time should be a breeze.

    I actually installed new bearings (they're cheap) and the races looked OK. Just one very small rust spot that I'm not too worried about. The wheel spins good, the clicking sound that I had getting on and off the bike seems to be gone (will verify after my next ride) and it's a little quieter I think.

    I'd say this was a good deal for $4 worth of parts and a few bottles of beer for myself and a couple friends. Maybe I don't need a new hub after all...

  36. #36
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    ^^AWESOME for a job well done!
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  37. #37
    jt2
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    Help!!!!

    Highdell amazing guide mate.

    But I'm in need of some help.....anyone please!!!

    Unfortunately I have run into a bit of a problem though. I seem to have completed all the steps shown here and have the wheel running nice and smooth. Then I put it back in the frame and tighten up the quick release and now the disc rotor is rubbing against the calliper mount and the wheel cant turn. Its almost like itís too far over to the non drive side now. If I have the non drive side cone in a position on the axle where the wheel can turn then there's a load of up and down, side to side play in the axle. The bearings are new and the hub itself aint that old (so no real wear) and was working well on this bike before I got to grips with it. I have about 5 threads of the axle sticking out on the drive side but from looking at your pics I end up with more threads showing on the non drive side than you do. Its almost like the hub is now thinner.

    And I have installed everything back on that came off
    Essentially the wheel runs real smooth but when put in the frame and the quick release is tightened the disk is tight against the caliper mount.
Any idea what I might have done wrong? Is there anyway that anything could have moved thus allowing the loss of about 5mm

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by jt2
    Highdell amazing guide mate.

    But I'm in need of some help.....anyone please!!!

    Unfortunately I have run into a bit of a problem though. I seem to have completed all the steps shown here and have the wheel running nice and smooth. Then I put it back in the frame and tighten up the quick release and now the disc rotor is rubbing against the calliper mount and the wheel cant turn. Its almost like itís too far over to the non drive side now. If I have the non drive side cone in a position on the axle where the wheel can turn then there's a load of up and down, side to side play in the axle. The bearings are new and the hub itself aint that old (so no real wear) and was working well on this bike before I got to grips with it. I have about 5 threads of the axle sticking out on the drive side but from looking at your pics I end up with more threads showing on the non drive side than you do. Its almost like the hub is now thinner.

    And I have installed everything back on that came off
    Essentially the wheel runs real smooth but when put in the frame and the quick release is tightened the disk is tight against the caliper mount.
Any idea what I might have done wrong? Is there anyway that anything could have moved thus allowing the loss of about 5mm
    Thanks man

    About the axle spacing...did you move the D/S cone and jam-nut at all? If so, you neet to tweak it a bit (by half of the difference in threads from either side) It's possible that they were loose before and they accidently unscrewed a bit. When you set the position of the D/S cone/nut, make sure you really tighenthem good against each other.
    OR, did you accidently mess up the spacers somehow?
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  39. #39
    Working on my Drops
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    This should be a sticky.

  40. #40
    jt2
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    Just a quick update....
    I ended up bringing my rear wheel into my LBS and explaining the spacing issues I was having. I picked it up the next day and sure enough all was correct again. Anyway it looks like they had to put in a 8mm spacer on the non drive side of the axle (which I must have lost but really never knew was there).
    Excellent!
    Well nothings that straight forward is it?
    After the first ride on it the cones are loose again. At least the spacing is correct and all I need to do is tighten them up again....I hope

  41. #41
    areilly777
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    Great tutorial. I have some Rolf Urraco disk wheels that are 10 years old and have never been serviced, and I think it's about time. Is this pretty representative of all non-cartridge bearing hubs, or am I going to be surprised when I open it up? Thanks.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by areilly777
    Great tutorial. I have some Rolf Urraco disk wheels that are 10 years old and have never been serviced, and I think it's about time. Is this pretty representative of all non-cartridge bearing hubs, or am I going to be surprised when I open it up? Thanks.
    Should be the same with the possibility of the number or thickness of the spacers being different and/or seals etc.
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  43. #43
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    awesome tutorial

    thanks for the details, reading this i realise i wrongly inverse the axle and had tought time finding the exact spacing tolerance as it was touching my rotor, yesterday open it and replace back the original spacers and just adjust the brake caliper... no play and very good feel. thanks again

  44. #44
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    Hey highdelll, thanks for the tutorial! I used it to rebuild my hubs last week, and it went fairly smoothly (just took a while since ive never done it before). Quick question though, for the first few miles after the rebuild, i noticed grease working its way out of the rear hub on the NDS. I wiped a little off a couple of times, and it seems to have stopped now... is this normal if there was a little too much grease in there? My rear hub is a shimano FH-M475, and it doesnt have a rubber type dust seal, just a metal domed cap type which doesnt look like it seals too well. I can post a picture tomorrow if that will help.

    Thanks!
    "That's a niiiiiiiice biiike boy! That a Huffy!?"

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nickbm3
    Hey highdelll, thanks for the tutorial! I used it to rebuild my hubs last week, and it went fairly smoothly (just took a while since ive never done it before). Quick question though, for the first few miles after the rebuild, i noticed grease working its way out of the rear hub on the NDS. I wiped a little off a couple of times, and it seems to have stopped now... is this normal if there was a little too much grease in there? My rear hub is a shimano FH-M475, and it doesnt have a rubber type dust seal, just a metal domed cap type which doesnt look like it seals too well. I can post a picture tomorrow if that will help.

    Thanks!
    Thanks

    Yeah, you may see a bit of grease forced out after the first few miles - after all it's not really 'sealed' - if it continues, I'd look into it further, if not you're good to go.
    and Congrats! - I think it's a rewarding project
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  46. #46
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    Cool, thanks man. I did pack it pretty heavily with grease, and it has seemed to stop now. Definitely a rewarding project, I let my front go too long apparently without service, wouldnt spin freely while holding the axle... more of a ratcheting!
    "That's a niiiiiiiice biiike boy! That a Huffy!?"

  47. #47
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    Okay, all I want to do was adjust the amount of tension on the cones/bearings (in order to get the mythical "no binding, yet no slop").

    Proper steps would be??

    1) Back out Non-DS cone and jam nut a little.
    2) Make sure the DS cone and jam nut are tight together, with the correct amount of threads showing.
    3) Tighten Non-DS cone until it makes contact with bearings.
    4) Tighten Non-DS jam nut to cone nut, and test for slop/binding.

    what am I missing? thx

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by morgan1819 View Post
    Okay, all I want to do was adjust the amount of tension on the cones/bearings (in order to get the mythical "no binding, yet no slop").

    Proper steps would be??

    1) Back out Non-DS cone and jam nut a little.
    2) Make sure the DS cone and jam nut are tight together, with the correct amount of threads showing.
    3) Tighten Non-DS cone until it makes contact with bearings.
    4) Tighten Non-DS jam nut to cone nut, and test for slop/binding.

    what am I missing? thx
    You should adjust both sides not just the NDS. I typically will get caged/loose bearings set really close before I ever mount the wheel back on the bike. You can feel the difference once you hold the axle in the hands and spin the wheel and which side might be binding ever so slightly. Once I have this smoothed out I typically mount the wheel and then ensure no side to side slop if any micro adjustments on the cones and jam nuts until that slop is gone.

    I say both sides as some axles have lips or inner locks that prevent the axle from sliding side to side to much in which case either or both sides could bind. This more prominent in sealed cartridge bearings but have run across a few caged/loose bearing setups like this as well.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShadowHunter View Post
    You should adjust both sides not just the NDS..
    Pardon me, but no, you should NOT!

    The DS cone/nut should be jammed together really tight (with the correct spacing) and LEFT ALONE!!!!

    @ Morgan, yeah man that's about right.
    I tighten the NDS cone 'til it's just starting to bind (slightly notchy). In the process of tightening the jam-nut, the cone will back off slightly - hopefully leaving the bearing pressure perfect.

    Are you having trouble? or are you just asking before you attempt it?
    Honestly... ahh I give up

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