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  1. #1
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    Rear wheel drag? Stan's?

    I just got my new Stans arch EX wheel set in the other day and I set them up tubeless Schwalbe tires and it went very smoothly.

    After I mounted the rear wheel on to the bike which is a trek x-calibur I noticed that the rear wheel does not spin as long as I thought it would. So I reset the disc brakes so there was no drag and it still spins well but not as good as I thought.

    Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks!

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  2. #2
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    new wheels tend to have a bit more drag until the bearings break in.
    ride it.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
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  3. #3
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    Thanks. I'll report back after logging some miles!

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  4. #4
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    My stan's 3:30 hub had no noticeable drag brand new. Might want to check the hub off the bike vs. on , should make no difference when clamped.

  5. #5
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    New wheels do tend to have a bit of drag. Not so much the bearings but the seals. The most likely culprit is the seal between the free hub and hub itself.
    If you take your wheel off the bike and spin them while you hold the axles only, you might find it spins fine. Now do that again and hold he free hub/cassette with your hand and you should feel the drag.
    If that is not the culprit; then perhaps the hub bearings. Is there a way to adjust the bearing presets on those hubs?

  6. #6
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    Well after the first ride the rear is spinning better.

    NEW ISSUE though... after riding about a mile or so my front tire started to rub so i tightened the QR again. Then it started to rub again. I adjusted the QR four times in the 8 mile ride.

    I grabbed the tire and tried to squeeze it to the fork just to see the flex and it was NOT STIFF. It went over to the fork.

    Do you think the spokes need tensioned? These are stock from performance bike.

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  7. #7
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    Never spin a wheel free on the bike or in the stand and draw any sort of conclusions. Its completely useless and invalid for everything.

    If you want to validate that, get a wheel and remove the seals and spray the bearings out with brake cleaner (you're about to trash a wheel, FYI). If you spin it in the stand, it'll spin for a very very long time. If you ride it, it'll drag and go slow, and then break soon. Then get another wheel and pack it chocked full of heavy wheel bearing grease. it'll spin real slow in the stand, and feel like butter on the trail. It'll also last and be durable.

  8. #8
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    I have Arch EXs and Crests and they've been great. You may want to take it back to Performance and show them what's happening. Since you just got them they should repair or replace your wheelset. Hopefully that will resolve your issues.

  9. #9
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    The rear quick release can affect the preload on the bearings and result in drag. However the cones should have been adjusted to account for the added pressure from the QR's. A QR that's over tightened can also be part of the problem.

    That being said, new wheels often need a little break in time to achieve optimal performance.

    Ignore the post about using heavy bearing grease. Guy has no idea what he's talking about.

    As far as the front wheel, the side play sounds pretty extreme. Check the spoke tension by hand to see if there are loose spokes. If not, it could be a loose axle. Sounds like the wheels were poorly built.


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  10. #10
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    Bump for a little more guidance on front wheel

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Upchuck View Post
    The rear quick release can affect the preload on the bearings and result in drag. However the cones should have been adjusted to account for the added pressure from the QR's. A QR that's over tightened can also be part of the problem.

    That being said, new wheels often need a little break in time to achieve optimal performance.

    Ignore the post about using heavy bearing grease. Guy has no idea what he's talking about.

    As far as the front wheel, the side play sounds pretty extreme. Check the spoke tension by hand to see if there are loose spokes. If not, it could be a loose axle. Sounds like the wheels were poorly built.


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  12. #12
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    Good to know, Keen. However an over tightened QR can still affect wheel drag. Stan's website has their recommended proper QR technique, which is pretty much the same for everyone. Most people over tighten QRs.

    The only thing that I can think of that would cause that much side play on the front wheel is loose spokes or using a QR axle that's too long for the dropouts and bottoms out before achieving proper tension.
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  13. #13
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    EZUphill, If you have a Performance Bike near to you, take the bike/wheels in and show them what is happening. They will be able to diagnose the problem first hand which is easier than others trying to figure out the problem online going only on the information you have provided. Since you just bought the wheelset they should be under warranty for repair or replacement. That being said, I agree with Upchuck that it sounds like loose spokes or a loose/too long QR. When you squeeze the tire to the fork, can you feel any play at the QR axle? If so then try and tighten the QR a bit more until you get no play. If you can't tighten it any more and you still have play then your axle may be too long. If there is no play in the axle and you can still bend the tire to the fork then you likely have loose spokes. You should either take it back to Performance who should true or replace your wheel free of charge. If you would have to ship it back to Performance, having an LBS true the wheel for you would offset your shipping cost and you may have it back sooner. I don't recommend you trying it yourself unless you know what you are doing or you could do more damage than good. ZTR rims don't have spoke eyelets so getting the correct and even spoke tension is critical. Hope that helps and good luck!

  14. #14
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    Driven and mtbrs,

    Thanks for the replies.

    The QR is tight and no play at axel. Has to be spoke/tension.

    I am going to call performance tomorrow to see what they think i should do. I closest one is an hour away.

    Thanks again!


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  15. #15
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    I called performance and they said that you are responsible for getting them trued and tensioned before you ride them.

    Do you think a true and tension will make them better?

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  16. #16
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    Really that's what they said? I guess I can understand since only sold you the wheelset but didn't actually build it. Still, I thought they'd be more helpful than that. Sorry. To answer your question, I do think a true and tension will help. I wonder what NoTubes would do if you called them and explained your situation?

  17. #17
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    Stans 3.30 hubs have removable end caps so you can change axle sizes if the end caps are in wonky it could explain the problems you're having. The caps have a rubber o-ring and if they are not installed correctly they can drag and not let your wheel sit in the drop outs correctly ...
    Just a thought

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  18. #18
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    I will give stan's a call before i head to lbs.

    Looks like i should have just got these through the lbs. I thought i was getting a great deal on this wheelset for $480 to my door. But now it will probably cost me another $40 to get them trued and tensioned. I could have got them for 540 otd from lbs.


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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by EZuphill View Post
    I called performance and they said that you are responsible for getting them trued and tensioned before you ride them.
    That's ridiculous
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  20. #20
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    Before taking the bike is the local bike store I decided to call Stan's first. They said the wheels should be true intentions when they leave the factory. Then I called the local performance bicycle store 1 hour and 15 minutes away from my house. And they said bring it in so they can take a look at it.

    So I took it sounds to performance bikes in the technicians of a look at it and they said the wheel was fine. I am then Ford on the wheel to show him how easy it is to flax the rim. And he said with all 29 inch bikes you have some will flex which I believe to be true. I never read any reviews that said the arch EX rims flex that much.

    I told him that I did not want the wheel set anymore. So he took off my rotors and cassette ans is shipping the wheels back to performance.

    I truly believe that I had a bad front wheel. I don't know what to do now. I don't know if I should go to the local bike store and buy a pair so that I know they are true and tension correctly or to look for a different wheel.


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  21. #21
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    find THE local wheel builder(every town seems to have one guy that is the town wheel god) and go talk to him.. to me--i dont want some lbs kid putting my wheels together.. Ive personally found that the few extra bucks ive spent going with a known wheel builder has payed off in spades with wheels that last longer--stay truer--and perform better.. my builder charges $45 per wheel plus parts (which he can usually get at a discount)..gl with whatever you end up getting

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