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  1. #501
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    I don't know about alternative greases and can't recommend or endorse the ones you've listed. I wouldn't risk it over $28.


    Quote Originally Posted by J. Random Psycho View Post
    Thank you Jim!

    Now that we know it shouldn't contain solid additives, and in accordance with DIN 51502, the Kluber Isoflex LDS 18 Special A grease designation would be KE 2 K-50, or KPE 2 K-50, and we could be looking for a similar grease by designation without letter F in between the first K and the consistency grade digit, NLGI grade of 1 to 2, and just as low or lower service temperature bound.

    Substitute greases could then be the likes of:
    Mobil Unirex S2
    Fuchs Renolit S2
    Castrol Optitemp TT1

  2. #502
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    I wouldn't risk it either. It's only for when the choice is between one of these or a general purpose grease from auto supply store.
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  3. #503
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    A buddy sent his Nox Teo w/Onyx hub through my little garage workshop for a pre-ride check and tubeless setup w/CushCore install.

    He wanted me to see just how "instant" Onyx was. Going by just the freehub, it definitely was instant, but I wanted to see just how instant it was on the bike with it in the granny gear. Also, it seemed as quiet and smooth as a lightly dragging brake rotor. He said that he expected it to break in... I'm going to remain skeptical until it's all assembled on his bike.

    Anyone know what version he got based on the outside appearance? All I know is that it's black, 12x142, and XD. I don't know if it's the 1 and 1/2 sprag lightweight version or not.

    Onyx Racing Hubs - Sprag Clutch vs other types of Engagement-20180306_233842.jpg
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  4. #504
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    Those are the dee-luxe original version, the lightweights have not been released yet.

  5. #505
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    I was going to service my Onyx hubs, but after I pulled the drive-side bearing, I realized I own an older model Onyx hub where the sprag sits in a sleeve that has to be pressed in and out, and all bearings come out the drive side.

    I called Onyx to confirm the procedure and ask what tools are typically used for the sleeve removal, and it sounded like I'd need more specialized tools than a slide hammer. However, Onyx said they'd service the hub free of charge provided I pay shipping both ways. You have to unlace the hub, of course, but I thought that was pretty awesome.

    Also, Onyx sells the Kluber LDS liquid gold stuff in service-size packets of 2g for $5.

    I decided not to try different lubes since I don't have any non-lubricating greases.

  6. #506
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bhaalgorn View Post

    I decided not to try different lubes since I don't have any non-lubricating greases.
    What?

    Non-lubricating grease?
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  7. #507
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    What?

    Non-lubricating grease?
    That's correct. If you read Jim's reply, it matches what Onyx customer service told me over the phone. What makes the required grease special is that it doesn't lubricate.

  8. #508
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bhaalgorn View Post
    That's correct. If you read Jim's reply, it matches what Onyx customer service told me over the phone. What makes the required grease special is that it doesn't lubricate.
    Grease lubricates by nature, this grease is special because it does not contain any friction modifiers which would make the sprags too slippery to function as designed.

  9. #509
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    I get the importance of semantics. I'm just relaying the verbiage used by the CS rep.

  10. #510
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bhaalgorn View Post
    I decided not to try different lubes since I don't have any non-lubricating greases.
    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    What?

    Non-lubricating grease?
    Quote Originally Posted by Bhaalgorn View Post
    That's correct. If you read Jim's reply, it matches what Onyx customer service told me over the phone. What makes the required grease special is that it doesn't lubricate.
    Kluber Isoflex LDS 18 Special A grease is a lubricating grease that does not contain modifiers such as PTFE or graphite. It is still an approved bearing grease that lubricates.

    Jim's comment and reference said nothing about the specified grease being 'non-lubricating'. That would entirely defeat the purpose. It needs to lubricate to do its job. He stated that Kluber did not contain added modifiers such as PTFE to make it too slick.

    This isn't a semantics argument.
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  11. #511
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    The mythical non-lubricating grease... going to tell this to one of my ride buddies that often has issues with creaking bits on his Cannondale. "Just slather non-lubricating grease on everything. You cannot be sure that it's not something like your disc brakes that is causing those creaks. It's safe for them since it's non-lubricating. It's like lotion, but for metal; it reconditions the surface to ideal conditions!"

    Might work as well as the blinker fluid gag. People must not want to run out of it, considering their blinker etiquette on the road, not using it for right hand turns or using it minimally when changing lanes (if at all).
    We're all on the same ship, and it's sinking.

  12. #512
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    This isn't a semantics argument.
    Minimally lubricating? Non-slick? Call it what you want, be as much of a turd as you want, but again, I'm just parroting what their customer service rep said. I'm not a grease expert.

  13. #513
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bhaalgorn View Post
    I'm not a grease expert.
    I think most here will agree with you on that statement.
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  14. #514
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    Saw the Kluber Isoflex LDS 18 on Amazon for $45.99 for a 2 oz tube. Now that would service many hubs for longer than I'm going to be alive, so I was wondering if it would also be a suitable grease for the pivot bearings & bottom bracket bearings on my Hightower. Any suggestions?

  15. #515
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    WLB,
    for these (especially linkage pivot bearings, also headset bearings) you may want something with a higher base oil viscosity, and with solid additives. Depending on your typical weather, possibly also something that says waterproof in description, or low temperature, or both.

    For instance, check out greases for Rzeppa type constant-velocity joints. These are not exotic because they are routinely used on cars.



    They are intended to be neglected for maintenance and even run with damaged boots.
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  16. #516
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    The bike industry is expert at taking common industrial products and re-packaging them in smaller quantities for marked-up resale. Bearings, lubes, seals, suspension fluid, etc...
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  17. #517
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Random Psycho View Post
    WLB,
    for these (especially linkage pivot bearings, also headset bearings) you may want something with a higher base oil viscosity, and with solid additives. Depending on your typical weather, possibly also something that says waterproof in description, or low temperature, or both.

    For instance, check out greases for Rzeppa type constant-velocity joints. These are not exotic because they are routinely used on cars..................
    Yeah, thats kind of what i was thinking too. Already have some ordinary marine grade type non lithium grease to use for bearings & stuff, just need to grab a small tube of the Kluber for the occasional hub service.

  18. #518
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    Is there a way to convert a onyx front hub from traditional to boost spacing? Just picked up some wheels with onyx hubs and want to use my boost fork.


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  19. #519
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    Quote Originally Posted by thedrizzle View Post
    Is there a way to convert a onyx front hub from traditional to boost spacing? Just picked up some wheels with onyx hubs and want to use my boost fork.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Yes, however you probably have to send it to Onyx. That's what I had to do with my rear hub, the front may be different. Just call them, they're very responsive.
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  20. #520
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Yes, however you probably have to send it to Onyx. That's what I had to do with my rear hub, the front may be different. Just call them, they're very responsive.
    Thanks. I am in Australia so i emailed them. I'd love to keep my current fork.

  21. #521
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Gerhardt View Post
    We're very close. 2 months is probably on the soonest side.
    How is the production on the lighter hubs going? I'm early in the process of purchasing new wheels this spring and very much looking forward to these!

  22. #522
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    I just got my upgraded hubs back from Onyx, went from non boost center lock hubs with steel XD driver to Boost 6 bolt with alloy XD driver and torque caps for my Pike fork. Total of 1g wight savings. Rear now at 428 and front at 238g. Oid hubs were 442 and 219g. So basically I now have new boost with alloy Xd driver and front torque caps and 6 bolts hubs for 350 total cost. The quality of these hubs are amazing. The old hubs were about 2to 2.5 years old and never been touched internally and still smooth as can be!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Onyx Racing Hubs - Sprag Clutch vs other types of Engagement-p1070915.jpg  


  23. #523
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    Any closer on the lightweight version?

    I might need a new hub pronto.

  24. #524
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    I'm interested in this too, and the mini driver

  25. #525
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    If you have seen/touched an Onxy hub, you know it reeks of quality. I will own this hub as soon as their field tests are complete and they have shaved one half pound off the hub. Please do not tell a XC Guy the weight does not matter. Save your breath. I purchased a Project 321 quiet hub that does the same job at less than half the weight. Almost dead quiet by using magnetic prawns instead of springs. I want an Onxy and expect to build my next wheel set with the new reduced weight model in red. As far as the weird feeling some are experiencing, I would not care much. I have had loud clunks back there some years back from horrible engagment. Things are so much better today. Very pleased with the Project 321. Great company and they stand behind their products very strongly.

  26. #526
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Gerhardt View Post
    We're very close. 2 months is probably on the soonest side.
    Hi Jim, Thank you for all the comments on this forum, I am very interested in the new lighter Hubs. I want the Onyx Hub with either the Nobl or We are one rims, Orange hubs with ceramic bearings. could care less about end cap color. Any idea on when the new hubs will be available?

  27. #527
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    I've broken 2 'X' hubs in a row. Tired of not riding my bike.

    If this lightweight Onyx hub was available today, I'd order it.

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  28. #528
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    I've broken 2 'X' hubs in a row. Tired of not riding my bike.

    If this lightweight Onyx hub was available today, I'd order it.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
    i will buil$a new wheel set as soon as the new lighter hub is available. I was recently told it will be in six months. Looks like next spring!

  29. #529
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    Watching this thread intently. Coming from the BMX side will the new hub be immediately available for a race BMX product 110m?
    Thx, Lloyd

  30. #530
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    I also will purchase an Onyx hub after it loses a couple hundred grams. I was obsessed in finding quiet Hubs. I ask skipped Onyx because I could find a hub that weighs half as much and do the same job. Beautiful hub and works so well but it is a fat pig. Should have the lighter model out in six months.

  31. #531
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emdexpress View Post
    Almost dead quiet by using magnetic prawns instead of springs.
    Does the hub smell fishy after awhile?

  32. #532
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nat View Post
    Does the hub smell fishy after awhile?
    I guess you never have an auto correct get passed you. I know I am not perfect....but try to be.

  33. #533
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    I like Prawns.
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  34. #534
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    Yeah. I like porn too.

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  35. #535
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    District 9 anyone?
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  36. #536
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    So, anyway....

    Jim, when are those new hubs going to be available? I have money burning a hole in my pocket.

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  37. #537
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    You are not alone. I almost bought the pig but I need to wait for Cinderella. I can always use another wheel set and Fanatibike will build it.

  38. #538
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    I was looking back at old posts and on Jan 28 Jim Gerhardt said "2 months is on the soonest side" so maybe another month or two?

  39. #539
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    I talked to Onyx on May 1st for about 30 minutes regarding the new lighter weight hubs for a new build I am doing. The gentleman I talked to said they "hoped" to have these hubs ready to show at Outerbike in late September, or sooner if all goes well. I don't think that means they will be ready for sale to the public though. I can't wait that long unfortunately, so I'll be purchasing the current boost rear hub with the "upgraded" alloy XD freehub. That should shave some weight off.
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  40. #540
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    Subscribed! Been hearing about the lighter Onyx, and looking forward to the release. Considering for a new Ripmo build this summer...

    Question: Hear a lot of folks talking about silence, engagement, and weight - but *not* about spinning resistance (friction).

    Seems to me that even if you had an extra fraction-of-a-percent less friction/resistance, then that would totally overcome any minor weight increases in terms of energy expenditure over a long ride...

    Is there any hard data (or even solid subjective user experiences over time) that show the premium Onyx hubs offer less rolling resistance vs. other hubs?

    The only figure I can think of is that if a hub is making 'noise' then there must be some mechanical energy converted into sound energy. But, this doesn't necessarily mean that the Onyx are more efficient. Nor does it speak to efficiency while engaged/pedaling; only coasting.

    Thoughts?

  41. #541
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    Quote Originally Posted by laserjockrock View Post
    Subscribed! Been hearing about the lighter Onyx, and looking forward to the release. Considering for a new Ripmo build this summer...

    Question: Hear a lot of folks talking about silence, engagement, and weight - but *not* about spinning resistance (friction).

    Seems to me that even if you had an extra fraction-of-a-percent less friction/resistance, then that would totally overcome any minor weight increases in terms of energy expenditure over a long ride...

    Thoughts?
    Dont overthink it. That being said, Onyx hubs spin as well as a front wheel.

  42. #542
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron1017 View Post
    Dont overthink it. That being said, Onyx hubs spin as well as a front wheel.
    I didn't find this to be remotely true.

    Friend built up wheel with Onyx rear hub and it definitely stays engaged when it spins, and has noticeable drag. We reasoned that it might need some break-in time, but pretty much forgot about re-testing it.

    I have much freer spinning rear wheels in my collection. For example, my Bontrager rear road wheel that's been through some gunk and an old Edge (Enve) DT rear XC wheel both spin very easily, both loaded and unloaded.

    I will agree with what another said, about it being like a lightly rubbing disc brake.

  43. #543
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    Quote Originally Posted by karmaphi View Post
    I didn't find this to be remotely true.

    Friend built up wheel with Onyx rear hub and it definitely stays engaged when it spins, and has noticeable drag. We reasoned that it might need some break-in time, but pretty much forgot about re-testing it.

    I have much freer spinning rear wheels in my collection. For example, my Bontrager rear road wheel that's been through some gunk and an old Edge (Enve) DT rear XC wheel both spin very easily, both loaded and unloaded.

    I will agree with what another said, about it being like a lightly rubbing disc brake.
    I have had mine since last fall, at first they are a little stiff. Once broken in, the rear does spin like a front wheel. Have had Kings and DT 240's and the Onyx rear spins noticeably freer than them.

  44. #544
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    Quote Originally Posted by ymiller996 View Post
    I have had mine since last fall, at first they are a little stiff. Once broken in, the rear does spin like a front wheel. Have had Kings and DT 240's and the Onyx rear spins noticeably freer than them.
    I have two sets, the first ones were smooth and seemingly frictionless right from the start. They remain the smoothest and best spinning hubs I have ever had and have been trouble free with a couple of years on them now. The second set was not quite as freakishly smooth out of the box, but still very nice. I expect them to break in to match the first set, and have been assured they will. They are a week or two from finally getting put on a bike.

  45. #545
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    Has anyone heard any recent news on the availability of the light weight design?

    Jim?

  46. #546
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    Quote Originally Posted by spec306 View Post
    Has anyone heard any recent news on the availability of the light weight design?

    Jim?

    Look up at post 539. ^^^
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  47. #547
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevinboyer View Post
    Look up at post 539. ^^^
    ............and post 539 is 5 weeks old now. Things could have changed -- they could have moved the date up sooner or they could have hit a design snag and moved the date out. Hence, the reason I asked if there was a more recent update.

  48. #548
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    Color options

    The color options are really great. Here's the Poseidon Green that was offered a couple months ago.Onyx Racing Hubs - Sprag Clutch vs other types of Engagement-onyx-nox-poseidon-green.jpg
    Last edited by changingleaf; 07-28-2018 at 05:10 AM. Reason: spelling

  49. #549
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    I really need to decide on fork and front hub options soonish.

  50. #550
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    I called Onyx last week and they said the light weight version is still 1 - 2 months out. So, who really knows. Take my money already!!!!

  51. #551
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    I'm holding up a build waiting for this hub. Does anyone know how likely the mini driver option will be? I really do like the Hope cassette I'm using.

  52. #552
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    Can some one please point me to a spoke calc that has the Onyx dimensions? Cant seem to find one...

    Thanks!

  53. #553
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottay View Post
    Can some one please point me to a spoke calc that has the Onyx dimensions? Cant seem to find one...

    Thanks!
    Go to Onyx's site, select the desired hub, and look for "Spoke length calculator", down on the description section.

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    Thanks!

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    Wanted to share some initial impressions for the new Nobl hub that I picked up - I wanted Onyx, but found the lighter weight (and nicer looking machining) of the Nobl version pretty appealing. I took the plunge and laced up a new wheel last week, finished tensioning Friday and rode Squamish all weekend.

    The hub is honestly like nothing I've ever felt, and I mean that in a good way. It takes some getting used to, because it does have a "softer" engagement point than the harsher metallic grab of a conventional hub. I actually think it feels more precise than a typical hub because there is no "clang" when you jab at the pedals - just silent forward motion. I might compare it to the feel of SRAM vs. Shimano shifting...some people love the "KA-CHUNG" definitive movement of SRAM's shifting, whereas Shimano tends to feel more buttery, but can be perceived as vague. If Industry Nine is SRAM, Onyx is Shimano in this regard. I understand how some folks could be bothered by this, but I fall into the "this is awesome" camp.

    I can't say I notice any improvement or disadvantage to the engagement speed over an Industry Nine hub, but they hubs definitely roll faster than anything I've used before. It's eery rolling through the woods with complete silence from the rear hub, and in the super sketchy dry conditions this weekend I found it was a lot easier for me to tell when my tires were about to break loose. Sure, I notice other rattles and things a bit more, but I really do think it lets you use your hearing as an asset to better read the trail and how the bike is reacting.

    Obviously this is just first impressions, but I love the hubs so far and would wholly recommend that people consider taking the plunge.

  56. #556
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    Onyx is drop-shipping to the wheel builder right now, and then I'll get to offer an opinion on these hubs.

    Pro-MTBer, I am not. But I'm the local crusty old asshole mechanic, and a real gear nerd. I'm anticipating liking them *a lot*, and not feeling the 200g weight penalty at the hub...especially since I'm taking like 600g+ out of my typical wheel build via thinner spokes, aluminum nipples, thinner rims, and lighter tires (shooting for 800g tires, whereas my current bike is probably like 1100+ (each)...).

    I will not be surprised if some aspect of their function ends up bothering me. Like the 'soft on' instead of the hard clang with your ratcheting freehubs. Or even just the *total* silence. So this is kind of an experiment, but one I hope to enjoy and stick with.

  57. #557
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    Nobl was nice to show a weight of 173g for the front 6-bolt, but they don't show a weight for the rear. Anybody know/measure the weight?

    @phuchmileif After a year on Onyx hubs, the only thing that has bothered me was the NON-silence coming from the rest of my bike. I found myself tracking down every little rattle with obsession!

  58. #558
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    I thought I'd share something I recently learned about Onyx hubs. My non-drive side bearings got crunchy and needed to be replaced recently so I had the LBS take a look. The stock bearings are "ceramic hybrid," meaning that the races are ceramic and the ball bearings are steel. Since the LBS had standard steel bearings in stock they replaced them with one of those (~$8) rather than order in a ceramic hybrid bearing (~$45). I can't feel any difference in rolling resistance between the two.

  59. #559
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    My experience is that crunchy bearings usually relates to bearings that have simply been compromised to some degree by ingress of dirt, dust or other contaminates. Usually a simple, but thorough cleaning, inspection and re-greasing appropriately addresses the problem and is much cheaper than replacement. The beauty of ceramic it that it's harder than most contaminates and takes a licking and keeps on ticking. In the end, it's really just a personal preference as to clean or replacement of the bearing.
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  60. #560
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    Quote Originally Posted by DinoRidge View Post
    Nobl was nice to show a weight of 173g for the front 6-bolt, but they don't show a weight for the rear. Anybody know/measure the weight?

    @phuchmileif After a year on Onyx hubs, the only thing that has bothered me was the NON-silence coming from the rest of my bike. I found myself tracking down every little rattle with obsession!
    My guesstimate is with the Alloy XD driver, boost rear Rear hub should weigh about 410 g

  61. #561
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    My experience is that crunchy bearings usually relates to bearings that have simply been compromised to some degree by ingress of dirt, dust or other contaminates. Usually a simple, but thorough cleaning, inspection and re-greasing appropriately addresses the problem and is much cheaper than replacement. The beauty of ceramic it that it's harder than most contaminates and takes a licking and keeps on ticking. In the end, it's really just a personal preference as to clean or replacement of the bearing.
    That's good to know. I just went with my LBS' recommendation to replace the bearing. They only charged me $8 and included labor as part of my free tune-up so I'm pretty happy with that.

  62. #562
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nat View Post
    That's good to know. I just went with my LBS' recommendation to replace the bearing. They only charged me $8 and included labor as part of my free tune-up so I'm pretty happy with that.
    Onyx hubs do not like water so be careful when submersing your hub or washing your bike. If you do go through a deep creek where the hub is totally submerged in water it needs to be totally gone through. I think onyx only has a two month warranty on the bearings themselves because they have no control since a source them from Germany. The bearings can be serviced as others have stated.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dgw7000 View Post
    My guesstimate is with the Alloy XD driver, boost rear Rear hub should weigh about 410 g
    Ok Ok, Nobl has an actual hub weight section on their site:
    NOBL Actual Hub Weight 148x12 Boost Sram Alloy Freehub = 420g

  64. #564
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgw7000 View Post
    Onyx hubs do not like water so be careful when submersing your hub or washing your bike. If you do go through a deep creek where the hub is totally submerged in water it needs to be totally gone through. I think onyx only has a two month warranty on the bearings themselves because they have no control since a source them from Germany. The bearings can be serviced as others have stated.
    Thanks but I don't do that.

  65. #565
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    Are onyx hubs any more prone to water or dirt ingress than any other hub? Riding in the UK, having a well sealed unit is pretty high up in my list of requirements.

    Given they're from Minnesota, I'd imagine they are used to rain and mud.

  66. #566
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    A well sealed hub is usually as simple as applying sufficient grease to the inside of the end caps or cinch nut where they meet with the outer bearing seal area as an added layer of protection. It's commonly a standard practice on any hub to aid in additional protection that is not usually addressed.
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    I got my wheels in from Colorado Cyclist.

    The rear hub feels amazing. They're not on a bike yet, but just sitting here playing with it, I am super excited to feel how they ride.

    I do not feel any extraneous drag. Yes, there is a tiny little noise and a very very tiny bit of associated drag that I'm pretty sure will either go away or be even more minimal after break-in. But it certainly feels no worse than my other hubs, which all have very average ratchet setups. I have no way to scientifically prove it, but I actually am inclined to think that even the brand new onyx hub has less drag.

    The bite is indeed instant. If I push the hub forward the absolutely slightest, barely-perceptible amount, then attempted to push it back...it doesn't move. At all. Based on these 'soft engagement' reports, I was expecting a tiny bit of slack. There's none...people are clearly just saying it's 'softer' because there is no awkward clunk of the ratchet mech engaging, which obviously is the most noticeable on typical hubs with like 7-10* or more or engagement, as they get much more time for the freewheel to accelerate before slamming home.

  68. #568
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    Quote Originally Posted by phuchmileif View Post
    I do not feel any extraneous drag. Yes, there is a tiny little noise and a very very tiny bit of associated drag that I'm pretty sure will either go away or be even more minimal after break-in. But it certainly feels no worse than my other hubs, which all have very average ratchet setups. I have no way to scientifically prove it, but I actually am inclined to think that even the brand new onyx hub has less drag.

    The bite is indeed instant. If I push the hub forward the absolutely slightest, barely-perceptible amount, then attempted to push it back...it doesn't move. At all. Based on these 'soft engagement' reports, I was expecting a tiny bit of slack. There's none...people are clearly just saying it's 'softer' because there is no awkward clunk of the ratchet mech engaging, which obviously is the most noticeable on typical hubs with like 7-10* or more or engagement, as they get much more time for the freewheel to accelerate before slamming home.
    Yes they will break in, my first set was very smooth from day one, I believe they slightly tightened up their specifications since then. My second set had more perceptible drag from new, but broke in nicely and is just as smooth as the first set. Your observations on the engagement match mine, but there is a definite difference in the hand feel and how they ride. There is no slack but under high torque there is a wind up as the sprags stand under load and the shell expands, it is essentially a spring effect so the net result is no loss of power but a great feel with the harshness of pawls or teeth eliminated. A few people don't seem to like this but I think it is a nice bonus feature of an excellent hub.

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    I see! Glad to have the clarification.

    I don't usually offer any opinion on parts I haven't installed yet, but these things are just too cool. I know that I'm going to like them...the lack of noise is an awesome bonus to my primary want, which is the instant engagement...I tend to ride low BB's around lots and lots of rocks, roots, stumps, et al, so ratcheting maneuvers become super-crucial.

    I could definitely understand why someone might not want these on a gravity bike, or for lightweight XC...but for all us 'trail' guys in between, this extra weight seems way worth it. And as I may or may not have stated, I saved like 300-400g elsewhere (lighter tires, narrower wheels, lighter spokes) over what I'm currently riding, so these are still going to feel like a lightweight upgrade to me.

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    Are yours the new lightweight version?

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    Not to my knowledge. Should be the 473g XD rear.

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    There's still no release date for the lightweight version as far as I'm aware. Love to be corrected on that though.

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    I'm not normally a gram shaver, but, eh, c'mon...It's heavy because it's instant, silent, and indestructible. 473 grams was worth it...so I played gram counter elsewhere. Probably don't need pillar spokes. That's over 100g right there (between two wheels- I went 2.0/1.6 front and 2.0/1.8 rear). Alu nipples are another 20g per wheel. Heavy tires are nice, but anyone not downhilling can get away with shaving 200g+ per tire. Tubeless cuts out about 75-150 grams per wheel, depending on how heavy the tubes were and how much sealant you use. Heck, you could save over 100g on brake rotors...the lightest 180's are a little under 100g; many others are 150+.

    200g should not be the showstopper if you're interested in these hubs, is all I'm trying to say...

    I'm curious if/when they come out with a lighter version, if it will remain a separate model from the current hubs. The only way I see that they can get a significant improvement is to make the sprags weight less, whether that means they're smaller, less of them, or whatever. And I imagine that would turn it into a lighter-duty hub.

  74. #574
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    ^^^^ Sounds like a closet gram shaver
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    @phuchmileeif I'm with you on the 'worth it'. I built a light XC race bike up with Onyx hubs and have been extremely pleased. I'm having a plus-ish wheel built, and will use Onyx either way, but would certainly take a lighter version if it is available! Did you see post #423 in this thread?

  76. #576
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    Quote Originally Posted by phuchmileif
    I'm curious if/when they come out with a lighter version, if it will remain a separate model from the current hubs.
    I asked about this somewhere earlier in the thread and the answer was yes it would remain separate.

  77. #577
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    I'm now one step closer to my new build. I'm looking at using a Garbaruk 10-50 cassette. However, in the spec for these cassettes, they specify that the drive side end cap on an XD hub is no more than 21.0mm.

    Does anyone know what the diameter is on the existing hub? If Jim is reading, do you know what the diameter will be on the new hub?

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    I just measured the old/current hub at 18mm. That's across the flats of the nut, which is the same diameter as the end of the cap. I had no idea there was a variance here- thought the sizes of the caps were pretty standard to ensure a proper interface with the frame dropouts.

    I'll be using an ethirteen cassette (9-46), which I do not yet have on-hand. Was not anticipating any issues...

  79. #579
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    Oh, BTW, I finally got a proper scale. I wanted it to go past 50lbs, though, so I got one of the the lower-resolution models. Only accurate to the 20g mark...see, not a closet weight weenie!

    My rear wheel ended up at about the 1200g mark. With an ~800g tire, a ~100g rotor, and some sealant, I'm right on 2200. Might seem really chunky, but I'm happy with it. This is with a 29" 30mm aluminum rim.

    This is versus my current 27.5 bike with 35mm rims and chunky 2.5 tires...the FRONT is 2500g, LOL...

  80. #580
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    Thanks for that. What's the diameter at the widest part 90 from those flats?

  81. #581
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    So many of us Onyx owners have struggled with how to describe the "squish", "slack", and overall "plushness" of our hubs. None really do it justice...But!

    So the other day my LBS owner said; "I love Onyx! It's like driving with an automatic transmission!". That one works for me. Love these hubs!

    There ya' go!
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  82. #582
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    I got my bike together yesterday.

    I still say it feels instant to me. I can't consider the lack of a 'clunk' on acceleration to be the same as there being slack. It's quite refreshing for someone who does a LOT of ratcheting.

    When you're right at the top of a usable gear, it CAN be hard to tell if you're actually pedaling or not. With other hubs, you get that definite catch that lets you know you're not spun out. With this hub, though, getting on the gas when you're at high speed and low pedal effort can seem a little strange.

  83. #583
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    Has anyone compared onyx to the new silent shimano hub yet?

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  84. #584
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    Quote Originally Posted by phuchmileif View Post
    I just measured the old/current hub at 18mm. That's across the flats of the nut, which is the same diameter as the end of the cap. I had no idea there was a variance here- thought the sizes of the caps were pretty standard to ensure a proper interface with the frame dropouts.

    I'll be using an ethirteen cassette (9-46), which I do not yet have on-hand. Was not anticipating any issues...
    Save your money , go eagle . Had two e13 cassettes . The aluminum gogs go away at 800 miles if you climb alot and 1200 miles general riding


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  85. #585
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    Quote Originally Posted by blacksheep5150 View Post
    Save your money , go eagle . Had two e13 cassettes . The aluminum gogs go away at 800 miles if you climb alot and 1200 miles general riding


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    Also the e13 is a complete pain in the ass to install and remove and special tools. I'd get a GX cassette and deal with extra weight rather than go through that again!

  86. #586
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    At least the proprietary tool also fits e13 BB cups and it's made of steel unlike most new BB cup tools by tool brands big and small.

    "Standards" these days. -_-
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    The e13 cassette came with my GG. It would only have saved me $130 to omit it; for that price, it seemed worth a try. I would not have bought it at the $200+ MSRP.

    And it's the pinch bolt version, which is super weird. I get how the outer part of the cassette locks in, and can't come unlocked in normal operation...but I don't get why you would use a pinch instead of a separate nut for the base. It seems to work, although I can see a tiny bit of eccentricity to the whole cassette. Doesn't seem to affect operation.

    I'll let things run their course...I'm on an M8000 derailleur with a cheap chain and chainring, so it's likely I'll just upgrade everything and move to a Shimano 12 speed in a year or so, when the price is right. Can't do SRAM because I hate the ergo of their shifters.

    So far, I am loving these hubs, BTW. Can't imagine going back to a normal ratchet. And, comparing it to the Shimano freehub version and a Sunrace cassette (since the Shimano gear spread is awful), the XD with the e13 is almost the exact same weight.

  88. #588
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    Onyx posted a teaser(?) video on IG... hmm, clicks?
    https://www.instagram.com/p/BnmsF5NB...-by=onyxracing

  89. #589
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    ^ I'm confused, just like all the people who commented.

    If it clicks, why does it seem to have 8 POE? The video doesn't show the freehub engaging either? Is this the lightweight version or something else entirely?
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  90. #590
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    Anyone heard any updates from Interbike?

  91. #591
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    I heard not until Sea Otter. What's it been now - 2 years?

  92. #592
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    ...my normal heavy Onyx hubs continue to operate brilliantly. All drag is gone.

    Just bite the bullet and eat the 200g, fellas. It matters so little in that location, plus you can get it back from your cassette or tire pretty easily, unless you've already gone full-weight-weenie.

  93. #593
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    You can't be considered a 'weight-weenie' with Onxy hubs.

    We all have our crosses to bear.
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  95. #595
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    Still no official release date. Man. I'm waiting on these things to come out so I can replace my DT Swiss wheels. Looks like upgrading to the microspline driver won't be an issue either.
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  96. #596
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    More photos mid way down and will drop 70 - 80 grams, looks great.

    https://cyclingtips.com/2018/09/inte...mounts-galore/

  97. #597
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    Might be why they are slow to bring the new hub to market:

    https://bikerumor.com/2018/09/22/ony...heir-own-hubs/


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  98. #598
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    Smart, really smart!


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  99. #599
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    So the new Shimano Spline freebody will also be available to Onyx hubs... Smart ...

  100. #600
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    And, as One-Up make a freehub to fit a Hope cassette to a DT hub, the Hope cassette also becomes an option.

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