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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by cunningstunts View Post
    i can't tell from searching websites. what is the freehub body made of? i'm assuming it's stainless or similar given the high end nature of this hub. mar free?
    It is definitely steel, not sure of the grade. The sprags engagement area sees a lot of stress, so it has to be very stout.

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  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by VonFalkenhausen View Post
    It is definitely steel, not sure of the grade. The sprags engagement area sees a lot of stress, so it has to be very stout.

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
    Don't know the material composition, do know it is up to the task so far. I utilize XT cassettes to minimize marring on all my bikes. Works like a charm.

  3. #203
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    the weight alone should make it obvious ...

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheUnknownRider View Post
    the weight alone should make it obvious ...
    There will be an option for lighter rear hub soon. That's all I know!!

  5. #205
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    How soon?
    How light?
    Planed to get set for my project.
    Hire is my one, and I love it.

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by VitaliT View Post
    How soon?
    How light?
    Planed to get set for my project.
    Hire is my one, and I love it.
    Sea Otter........
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  7. #207
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    Got my first ride on my onyx hubs yesterday , be honest didn't notice them as they were quiet and smooth . As a 265 pound Clyde ,I didn't notice any issues what so ever . The build mechanic was so impressed with the onyx he ordered one .

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by blacksheep5150 View Post
    Got my first ride on my onyx hubs yesterday , be honest didn't notice them as they were quiet and smooth . As a 265 pound Clyde ,I didn't notice any issues what so ever . The build mechanic was so impressed with the onyx he ordered one .
    I am terrified of these thread. Just sent for build up 2 sets of Onyx fat bike hubs (front/rear) and is going to have 2 sets, a 27.5 plus and a 90mm fat bike rims (both Nextie rims). Will cost a fortune, so if the hub does not satisfy, I will be devastated. I am a 250LBS rider too so I was looking at Onyx since my Hope hubs is not taking the load.
    Good to hear that most people is satisfied with these hubs.

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    I am terrified of these thread.
    Boo. Did that scare you too?
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  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    I am terrified of these thread.

    Good to hear that most people is satisfied with these hubs.
    I am so confident you will love the hubs, that if you don't...you send the wheel sets to me and I will give you $50

  11. #211
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    Good job!

    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    I am so confident you will love the hubs, that if you don't...you send the wheel sets to me and I will give you $50

    That was a good offer, makes me more confident.
    Is it any break in time for the rear hub? It is a tiny bit of drag straight from the box? Is the drag disappearing after some use?

  12. #212
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    ^Of coarse there will be some drag, there are bearings and seals involved. Don't be "that" guy!

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    ^Of coarse there will be some drag, there are bearings and seals involved. Don't be "that" guy!
    No worry just read somewhere about break in. There is a big chance that I will be the happy user of Onyx, and there is time for trouble free hubs for months and years.

    Just curious about the front has hub on the rotor side it is a cylinder shape about 20mm deep before the axle cup. Is there a place for collecting dirt?

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    ...a tiny bit of drag straight from the box?...
    It is possible. Just in case you are not aware of the procedure, I'll spell it out in writing. Have a 2.5mm hex key/allen wrench ready, then test adjust pre-load when installed. Remove brake caliper, or top loading brake pads, or mount wheel without rotor, so there is no possible contact with pads; chain on cassette with rear derailleur is OK installed. Find the heavy point of the tire/wheel (the side that always rests in the lowest position), facing the non-drive side (the same side as the cinch-nut) rotate the wheel 90 degrees clockwise and let drop. Note the rate of return to the down position. Spin the wheel with light force and note the ease of rotation. Loosen the cinch-nut pinch-bolt, rotate the cinch-nut counter clockwise a half turn, repeat quarter rotation & return rate and spin test. Continue rotating cinch-nut counter-clockwise until stop point, taking mental note of change or no change. Rotate the cinch-nut clockwise until binding is apparent, also taking note of spin behavior & feel to that point. This test will provide feel for full range of adjustment when the wheel is installed and secured with skewer or thru-bolt. Again rotate the cinch-nut counter clockwise in half-turn increments till the wheel rotates freely. Tighten pinch-bolt on the cinch-nut.

  15. #215
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    Where the feather-light Onyx hubs at? Sea Otter is at least a few hours old....

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    That was a good offer, makes me more confident.
    Is it any break in time for the rear hub? It is a tiny bit of drag straight from the box? Is the drag disappearing after some use?
    My onyx right out of the box spin better then my multiple sets of chris kings ever did ! And i like chris kings .

  17. #217
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    Look what I found It was in German, so I took the liberty of translating it into English for you

    https://translate.google.de/translat...rp-naben-ohne/

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  18. #218
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    I talked to the Onyx guys and saw the display. It looks like a slick solution, and not at all what I expected. Thumbs up.

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by dustyduke22 View Post
    Looks like the freehubs went on a diet!
    That is exactly what they needed to do, too many people are fixated on the weight. Not that this will put them in the featherweight class, but it will put them solidly under Stealth and closer to King and the even lighter but inferior pawl driven noisemakers in the over hyped mass wars. At risk of sounding like a bigger jackass than usual, I actually was expecting this. I couldn't think of any other way of getting a big chunk of weight out of the hubs and I didn't see Onyx doing anything to compromise the strength of the design. I am somewhat pleasantly surprised to see the pins to reinforce the freehub splines, I have wondered why something like this was not more common in the past. I suppose it was extra complexity and cost that other manufacturers did not want to take on, Onyx Racing does not seem to shy away from going the extra mile to improve their product. Looking forward to more details on these new options, and wondering if I can resist upgrading my plain old steel freehub...

  20. #220
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    This was taken directly from the German article. Does this mean they save 75 grams going to the aluminum?

    "The new drive body 45 g and 75 g Shimano designed to save the XD Driver."

  21. #221
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    Anybody have insight as to whether these are the same changes that came with the NOBL branded Onyx hubs?

  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slow Danger View Post
    Anybody have insight as to whether these are the same changes that came with the NOBL branded Onyx hubs?
    I doubt it yet. They hubs are not released yet. I spoke to them.

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by excaliber View Post
    This was taken directly from the German article. Does this mean they save 75 grams going to the aluminum?

    "The new drive body 45 g and 75 g Shimano designed to save the XD Driver."
    Maybe you could cite the article and perhaps provide a link?


    Ok...duh...feeling stupid. I was thinking this was a new reference.
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  24. #224
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    post #217 above

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by excaliber View Post
    post #217 above
    The German original article states that the XD Driver is 45 g and the Shimano version is 75 g lighter than before.

    Please note these are numbers provided by the manufacturer and not from the author of the article.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    Avid is spelled wrong, there should be an 'O' in there.

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    ^Of coarse there will be some drag, there are bearings and seals involved. Don't be "that" guy!
    wha huh?

    Srsy, if you saw my little vid of the back pedal, it dosen't do that anymore. Zero wheel spin during the backpedal. If you get drag check the bearing preload. Die horse.

  27. #227
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    Reminds me of the riders that used straightened out staples, just like those pins, to prevent cassette cog digging into soft Al freehub bodies.
    We're all on the same ship, and it's sinking.

  28. #228
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    I do not want any light weight, just heavy duty hubs that does not need any special care. I have used a solid steel axle on my hope 177mm rear hub. That weight is more than the weight penalty of the onyx. The free hub body has cracked several times and the bearings are just getting grinded up. The hub bearings is bad after a few rides. I have been using a fortune on new bearings and a lot of time on the Hope hub. Just want something bomb proof like the onyx.

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    I do not want any light weight, just heavy duty hubs that does not need any special care. I have used a solid steel axle on my hope 177mm rear hub. That weight is more than the weight penalty of the onyx. The free hub body has cracked several times and the bearings are just getting grinded up. The hub bearings is bad after a few rides. I have been using a fortune on new bearings and a lot of time on the Hope hub. Just want something bomb proof like the onyx.
    Well your in luck then!! The new lighter hubs will not be happening anytime soon and that's all I know.

  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgw7000 View Post
    Well your in luck then!! The new lighter hubs will not be happening anytime soon and that's all I know.
    June July. Just the freehub

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  31. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Gerhardt View Post
    Thanks for the update Mike, that gearing will put you around 1/2 wheel turn per rev. of the cranks, massive amounts of torque going to the hub, not sure there is any other bike application that would resemble this. It definitely is going to be a feel thing, you can see in the video the energy releasing back into the cranks when you lift up, it has to or the hub would still be engaged. I'd say if this was a bigger market for these I'd make a different version that would eliminate this, but I'm not sure I'd ever recoup the costs. I have a few options to discuss with you to reduce this on this particular hub, give me a call when you get a chance.
    Wanted to update this thread.

    Jim sent a set of slightly oversized sprags with the idea that (when mated with my current driver) there would be less windup, or sponginess, as the sprags stand up and engage.

    Took me some time to find the time to do it, but rain all day today let me get caught up around the shop, as well as dive into this.

    I used the videos that Jim linked to (post #15 in this thread) and it took me about as long as watching the vids to remove the old sprags and install the new ones, then reassemble the hub.

    Won't get a chance to ride it for a bit, but the replacement of the sprags was really easy.

    Will chime back in once more after getting a chance to ride it.

  32. #232
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    Question for Mr. Jim G.
    I got question on another forum from one potential onyxrp customer, so I should ask it hire
    Is it possible to convert rear hub from QR to thru axle?
    Without sending hub from Europe to US?
    Would conversion kits (end cups) available on you web shop?

  33. #233
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    Just checking in , I have about 60 miles on my onyx and so far they are great . My Chris kings (which I liked ) never spun as easy or free...

  34. #234
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    Newbie to this thread... Been Onyx-curious for a long time but never seen them in person till Sea Otter. These hubs are awesome, will definitely be my next hubs. Re: the lighter hub shell, here's an excerpt from a post I made over in the Norcal forum on one of the Sea Otter threads:

    Spent a long while talking to the guy at Onyx. I've been curious about these hubs for a long time, and they're hard to find in person. My next set of hubs will definitely be these. These things are awesome. Truly instant engagement. The clutch mechanism is genius, simple, and bomber. Almost nonexistent drag. And silent! Never understood why so many people seem to lust over loud hubs. One thing they just came out with is an aluminum driver that drops around 75g over the previous steel version (should be available around June). This is significant as the weight of these hubs have been one of the few drawbacks. They also have a great method for preventing cogs from chewing up the aluminum splines. There's a groove in front of each spline, and a tiny steel rod fits in there. The cogs push against that instead of directly on the aluminum. Kinda similar to how American Classic solves the same issue with their hubs.




  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by VitaliT View Post
    Question for Mr. Jim G.
    I got question on another forum from one potential onyxrp customer, so I should ask it hire
    Is it possible to convert rear hub from QR to thru axle?
    Without sending hub from Europe to US?
    Would conversion kits (end cups) available on you web shop?
    I don't want to speak for Jim, but converting the hub is pretty easy. End caps are available through them or any shop that has an account.
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  36. #236
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    dustyduke22 Thanks
    Btw just ordered another set of hubs this time for 29er.
    They are addictive

  37. #237
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    Bikerumor Sea Otter Post
    Basically a summary of what we already know, plus a couple of idiotic comments because internet. For $100 I will probably upgrade my hub. And by probably I mean definitely, because I can't resist stuff like this.

  38. #238
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    VitaliT: It is quite simple to convert the axles yourself. Send an email to sales@onyxrp.com get get the parts you need and videos are available on our youtube channel link here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzn...tXT7ZGuGFujPnA

  39. #239
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    This is on all our iso 6-bolt hubs, allows space for an allen key access to cinch bolt.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    No worry just read somewhere about break in. There is a big chance that I will be the happy user of Onyx, and there is time for trouble free hubs for months and years.

    Just curious about the front has hub on the rotor side it is a cylinder shape about 20mm deep before the axle cup. Is there a place for collecting dirt?

  40. #240
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    HI Jim.
    Thanks for such great service and tech support, there is not so much companyís what have such nice customer support.

    I am asked those things because I am started tread about you product in another bike forum where not everyone speak English so Iím just helping other gays to get needed information. So they can make decision what to bay.

  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by VitaliT View Post
    just helping other gays
    Hey I'm straight!

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Random Psycho View Post
    Hey I'm straight!
    In that case ignore that PM I just sent you! I will find a different riding partner.

  43. #243
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    Waiting for rims, awesome work quality.


  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    Will chime back in once more after getting a chance to ride it.
    What say yee?

  45. #245
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    How does my LBS in Canada get a set of Onyx hubs for me?

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by PUNKY View Post
    How does my LBS in Canada get a set of Onyx hubs for me?
    Ask them
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  47. #247
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    edit
    Last edited by Derp; 01-18-2017 at 07:45 PM.

  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Ask them
    Who?

    Quote Originally Posted by Derp View Post
    You can order Nobl hubs which are almost exactly the same.
    Thought about that, but no 20mm CL front hub makes myself a sad Panda

  49. #249
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    Anyone know are the Nobl hubs similar to the updated lighter Onyx hubs that are coming out soon?

  50. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by handsomehwang View Post
    Anyone know are the Nobl hubs similar to the updated lighter Onyx hubs that are coming out soon?
    NOBL hubs are already lighter than Onyx since the did extra machining on the hub shell. They will have options for the lighter freehub ad well

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  51. #251
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    A check on onyx website now, they have revamped the page and its more user friendly now. Apart from that, the lighter version of alloy freehub is available under the build up option with additional 25 dollars. But the weight reduction is very minimal at around 45g for XD driver. Does it worth for the upgrade? And it's an alloy, durability might not be as good as steel. In my opinion, steel is still the best option.

    By the way, for those who had used Onyx, how soon is the bearing needs to be changed? Does it as tough as Chris King's bearing? I am currently using I9, had already changed my bearing twice in a year


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  52. #252
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    I get my Onyx hub on Tuesday. I'm very excited. I'm sure it will get a mention on my site.

  53. #253
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    Wow. PVD choosing to buy an Onyx is saying something.

    Quote Originally Posted by Keithyk View Post
    And it's an alloy, durability might not be as good as steel. In my opinion, steel is still the best option.
    I've even been thinking to have a (SS freewheel, 6 bolt disc) hub shell machined out of mild steel. Powder coat it and forget about it.

    Waiting for 6xxx alloy hub shells for Onyx..
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  54. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keithyk View Post
    A check on onyx website now, they have revamped the page and its more user friendly now. Apart from that, the lighter version of alloy freehub is available under the build up option with additional 25 dollars. But the weight reduction is very minimal at around 45g for XD driver. Does it worth for the upgrade? And it's an alloy, durability might not be as good as steel. In my opinion, steel is still the best option.

    By the way, for those who had used Onyx, how soon is the bearing needs to be changed? Does it as tough as Chris King's bearing? I am currently using I9, had already changed my bearing twice in a year


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    The Onyx fat bike 177x12 and 150x15 hubs I have been using on mye Foes Mutz have been absolutely flawless and is running even more smooth now than when it was new. The bearings is ceramic and is smooth as butter. Chris King have angular contact bearings that is possible to service with new grease. The Onyx use sealed bearings that needs to be replaced. I have been using CK also for my FS wheelset, but I will say that the Onyx is my favourite with instant lock up. And the Onyx seems to need less service and is not affected by cold climate either.

  55. #255
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    Sealed bearings can and should be serviced...unless you just enjoy replacement.
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  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Sealed bearings can and should be serviced...unless you just enjoy replacement.
    Okay, of course it is possible. But you will not have a sealed bearing any more.

  57. #257
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    Most of the time it's possible to open them at the static lip without damaging it. But quite often they are too far gone already and need replacement anyway.

    As to whether they should be serviced, it depends on how disposable you consider cartridge bearings to be. We have cup and cone design that should be serviced indeed, because it's nonstandard parts. Cartridge bearings can then be seen as a departure from this, in that one can afford to just ride them to death and replace.
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  58. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    Okay, of course it is possible. But you will not have a sealed bearing any more.
    A sealed bearing is sealed to prevent contaminates, dirt and such from entering the bearing. It's not to prevent servicing. The seal is not something that once opened, is like a paper seal, that once torn, no longer is usable. Seals on bearings are easily removed and reinstalled after servicing a bearing with no damage to the seal or bearing.
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  59. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    A sealed bearing is sealed to prevent contaminates, dirt and such from entering the bearing. It's not to prevent servicing. The seal is not something that once opened, is like a paper seal, that once torn, no longer is usable. Seals on bearings are easily removed and reinstalled after servicing a bearing with no damage to the seal or bearing.
    So any good advice for what grease to use?

  60. #260
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    Grease, like your choice of tires, is somewhat subjective. There are many high quality lubricants depending on what your desired objective is. If you ride in a wet environment, then a high quality water-proof marine type grease might be preferred. For dry environments and ultimate efficiency, I like a little thinner grease. There's a trade-off in more efficient greases that offer a lower friction coefficient with a possibility of increased maintenance intervals where a heavier marine type grease offer excellent protection and longer maintenance intervals, but a higher friction coefficient.

    I have two greases (lubricants) that I like. Motorex 2000 and Buzzy's Slick Honey.
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  61. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    Okay, of course it is possible. But you will not have a sealed bearing any more.
    Huh? The seals don't just curl up and die. You press them back into place and they work just like new.

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  62. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    A sealed bearing is sealed to prevent contaminates, dirt and such from entering the bearing. It's not to prevent servicing. The seal is not something that once opened, is like a paper seal, that once torn, no longer is usable. Seals on bearings are easily removed and reinstalled after servicing a bearing with no damage to the seal or bearing.
    What is the best way to pop the seals off?

  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by newoldskool View Post
    What is the best way to pop the seals off?
    I use a razor blade. Get it under the seal edge and lever it off. I've looked at the seals under a large magnifying glass and was not able to discern any damage.
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  65. #265
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    First, these are suspension pivot bearings, not hub bearings, but the bearing, the seal and the concept is identical.

    A common sealed bearing:

    Onyx Racing Hubs - Sprag Clutch vs other types of Engagement-20161031_165954-1-.jpg

    I use a thin, spoon like tool to carefully slip under the seal. An Exacto knife works well or a razor blade. Anything very thin will work. Many use a small pick, but using one frequently does cause seal damage by leaving a notch in the rubber seal. Carefully work around the seal to gently lift it from the bearing and remove it.

    Onyx Racing Hubs - Sprag Clutch vs other types of Engagement-20161031_164637.jpg Onyx Racing Hubs - Sprag Clutch vs other types of Engagement-20161031_164718.jpg Onyx Racing Hubs - Sprag Clutch vs other types of Engagement-20161031_164809.jpg

    Most seals have some sort of brass or metal reinforcement to the rubber or silicone seal. If you bend this metal backing, you can carefully bend it back flat, but if careful in removal, you shouldn't have a problem. Check the bearings for contamination, dirt or signs of rust that prolly means water has found it way in.

    Onyx Racing Hubs - Sprag Clutch vs other types of Engagement-20161031_164931.jpg Onyx Racing Hubs - Sprag Clutch vs other types of Engagement-20161031_165008.jpg


    Clean the bearings (if necessary) and add more clean grease. DO NOT PACK A WHEEL HUB THIS FULL OF GREASE!

    NOTE: These are Pivot bearings and can be completely packed full of grease because they simply pivot back and forth. For wheel hub bearings, you want to add fresh grease, but NOT PACKED FULL. They need to be able to fully rotate unobstructed.


    Onyx Racing Hubs - Sprag Clutch vs other types of Engagement-20161031_170304-1-.jpg Onyx Racing Hubs - Sprag Clutch vs other types of Engagement-20161031_165523.jpg


    Reinstall seal and make sure it has been fully seated into the retainer notch around the circumference of the inner and outer bearing races.

    Onyx Racing Hubs - Sprag Clutch vs other types of Engagement-20161031_164602.jpg
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  66. #266
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    Pictures are great.
    Can you pack hub bearings with light grease like slick honey? Otherwise, how much grease do you put in? Smear it in and then mush it around and then scoop what u can out?

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  67. #267
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    Yes, Buzzy's Slick Honey is one of my favorites. It's considerably lighter than Park 1000 Polylube or Phil Wood water proof grease. These other, thicker lubricants are excellent greases, but being thicker, they have a higher friction coefficient. Slick Honey is lighter and thinner, but still a high quality lubricant that spins more efficiently because of a lower friction coefficient.

    Perhaps the trade-off is a possible increased service interval on the lighter lubricants. I'm very preventative maintenance oriented, so this is a moot point for me.
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  68. #268
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    I failed to answer your question of how much.

    Just enough to ensure an appropriate amount. I guess it's something you have to do yourself and make some assumptions on what seems to be the correct amount. I force the grease into the bearings with my thumb and rotate the bearing around and add some more until it appears to be mechanically sufficient.

    I don't really ever remove any excess grease, I just manage what has been applied. I realize that my definition prolly isn't all that clear, but you'll figure it out.
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  69. #269
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    Whats a good gauge for determining too much versus too little slick honey? Mostly by feel? Maybe smear some on and spin the hub then scrape the rest out?

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  70. #270
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    All good info. I'd use a pick if I was going to get into re-lubing them. Just personally they seem to last about forever and if one dies, I just replace it with an SKF. However I live in TX and don't submerge the bearings in water these days.

    The only time I've needed to replace cartridge bearings with any frequency was when I had a Stan's 3.30 rear hub. They were dying from being undersized for the application, not from lack of lube.

  71. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Whats a good gauge for determining too much versus too little slick honey? Mostly by feel? Maybe smear some on and spin the hub then scrape the rest out?
    Slick Honey is pretty thin, so I'm not sure you could really 'over-pack' it. Don't get too wrapped around the axle on quantity. No, I would not go so far as to 'scrape the rest out'.

    Like I stated a few posts above, "I guess it's something you have to do yourself and make some assumptions on what seems to be the correct amount."
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  72. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Huh? The seals don't just curl up and die. You press them back into place and they work just like new.

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    There is a catch when you service your Onyx hub bearings you will have a hard time to clean, since it should not get any sort of cleaning solution in to the sprag clutches. If you need to knock out the bearings first it will the compromised. My experience with cleaning bearings will take a lot of cleaning liquid. You could use mineral liquor that is recommended for the sprag clutch cleaning, but I think the old grease from bearings should not get in contact with the clutch, and it will for sure float liquid all over and probably into the clutches. Wrong type of grase and teflon kind of solutions make the mechanism to not work properly, it will slip.

  73. #273
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    I frequently do not have to perform any cleaning of the bearings beyond wiping a clean rag across the bearings to remove excess old grease. Rotate the bearing and wipe whatever can be removed. If the bearing has not become contaminated, then simply add fresh grease and seal back up. Frequently there is no need to use solvents to remove old grease.

    The necessity is particularly true if regular and ongoing hub servicing is being carried out.
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  74. #274
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    Nox Composites

    In addition to Nobl, I also noticed Nox Composites offers Onyx hubs as an option for their factory builds. They have a decent 29+ option, the Kitsuma. Really good warranty too--2 yrs. including rock strikes, and then a crash replacement discount after that.

    I have no personal experience with either manufacturer, however.

  75. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Gerhardt View Post
    Thanks for the update Mike, that gearing will put you around 1/2 wheel turn per rev. of the cranks, massive amounts of torque going to the hub, not sure there is any other bike application that would resemble this. It definitely is going to be a feel thing, you can see in the video the energy releasing back into the cranks when you lift up, it has to or the hub would still be engaged. I'd say if this was a bigger market for these I'd make a different version that would eliminate this, but I'm not sure I'd ever recoup the costs. I have a few options to discuss with you to reduce this on this particular hub, give me a call when you get a chance.

    I wanted to circle back to this, to share that Jim @ Onyx has solved the "sponginess" concern I had. He can chime in to explain how, I just wanted to make sure that people understand that he did.

    And he actually did it ~8 or 9 months ago, I've just been too committed to other projects to ride the bike with the new hub until this past week.

    BTW, I originally noticed this feel when riding an ~80# pig of a fatbike, with the attendant massive amounts of traction, using very low (26 x 44t) gearing, and traversing some very steep country. So to say, not what most people are doing with their Onyx hubs.

    Link to the bike here and the trip report here.

  76. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    I wanted to circle back to this, to share that Jim @ Onyx has solved the "sponginess" concern I had. He can chime in to explain how, I just wanted to make sure that people understand that he did.

    And he actually did it ~8 or 9 months ago, I've just been too committed to other projects to ride the bike with the new hub until this past week.

    BTW, I originally noticed this feel when riding an ~80# pig of a fatbike, with the attendant massive amounts of traction, using very low (26 x 44t) gearing, and traversing some very steep country. So to say, not what most people are doing with their Onyx hubs.

    Link to the bike here and the trip report here.
    So could you share with us what Onyx did with the hub to solve the issue you had?

  77. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    So could you share with us what Onyx did with the hub to solve the issue you had?
    I'd be interested in this as well. Especially if it was a running change to onyx and when?
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  78. #278
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    So could you share with us what Onyx did with the hub to solve the issue you had?

    When we discussed this last spring, Jim had proposed 2 (maybe even 3?) different solutions. Because he sent the replacement hub back to me in ~September I can't remember which fix he used, thus I can't share detail.

    I'm sure he didn't do something just for me -- it'd have to be something that he could apply to a wide range of hubs/riders for it to be worth his while.

  79. #279
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    If anyone happens to know, what are the differences between the single sprag and dual sprag versions? I understand this may be the entirely wrong site to be asking on since it's not really road oriented.

  80. #280
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    Dual sprag versions have two sprag assemblies transmitting torque in parallel between freehub body and hub shell.
    26" rigid SS 4130 BB7 nylon-flats ESI latex-tubes non-lubricated-8spd

  81. #281
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    I figured that, but is there a difference in weight, how much, or might there be a way to describe how much torque the single could take before slipping vs the dual, assuming that is the case.

    Edit: Just found how to answer one of my questions, 10.9 oz vs 12.5 oz.

  82. #282
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    No idea about weight, sorry. My thinking is that the dual ones are intended to make the hub torsionally stiffer, and maybe to prevent sprag/race fatigue failures in high torque applications.
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  83. #283
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    I'm strongly considering ordering a set of these hubs. The exchange rate to CDN has me singing le blues. Not really liking the UPS only shipping options to Canada, but such is life. Would've enjoyed a USPS option...

    Anyway, black ano 32H, CL, steel free hub, 148 x 20mm upfront. Pretty plain jane build. No funky colours. No etching.
    The only thing I though of was a gold axle but I sorta scraped that idea.

  84. #284
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    if you do the math Punky, i'm pretty sure the best way to do Onyx in Canada is Nobl. by a good margin.

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    ^Thanks. Looking into it more it appears the best way is to get Onyx thru LB USA

  86. #286
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    Anybody know if the front 135 fat hub will work on a Jones 29 truss fork? Does it have the needed spacing?

    Also does the rear hub come with a spacer for 10 speed? Not keen on moving on to 11 speed just yet.

  87. #287
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    This is a bit of an odd question but I'm considering the Nobl hubs with Onyx internals for my next wheelset.

    Coming from I-9's, I like the idea of a silent running hub but my only concern is "sneaking up" on other people, hikers, slower riders, animals, etc. Has anyone had an issue like this? I always thought my I-9's buzzsaw sound was a great warning for people but I had a high speed collision with some other riders coming the wrong way up a blind, high-speed corner so my faith has been shaken a bit.

  88. #288
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    I don't think it's an odd question. I've had this problem where I think my bike is making all sorts of noise that isn't a bell and lots of people say they didn't hear it. Happens all the time. I think noise that isn't a bell can't be trusted to alert others. Then there are those who ignore bells too...

  89. #289
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    One reason i got the timberbell. Works great. Annoying but you get use to it and several times around a bend on a DH I've found hikers waiting on the side for me to pass. Pretty cool. Ive gotten it to alert mountain lions originally.

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  90. #290
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    Not an issue actually, I was also coming from using the i9 hub. The trail rolling sound would have alerted the hikers/bikers. But even though there's buzzing sound, if a rider is paying attention to his ride, he wouldn't have notice as well from my experience.
    Anyway, I am using the NOBL hub as well. Like the shape!


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  91. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keithyk View Post
    Not an issue actually, I was also coming from using the i9 hub. The trail rolling sound would have alerted the hikers/bikers. But even though there's buzzing sound, if a rider is paying attention to his ride, he wouldn't have notice as well from my experience.
    Anyway, I am using the NOBL hub as well. Like the shape!


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    Cool to hear from someone coming off I9. Which style of engagement do you prefer between the two hubs? I haven't had the chance to ride a sprag clutch hub.

  92. #292
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    On the climb I feel minimal difference, but quite a lot of difference in free wheel. I actually gaining speed


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  93. #293
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    If quietness is a concern, there's always this:


    26" rigid SS 4130 BB7 nylon-flats ESI latex-tubes non-lubricated-8spd

  94. #294
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    Coming from I-9's, I like the idea of a silent running hub but my only concern is "sneaking up" on other people, hikers, slower riders, animals, etc. Has anyone had an issue like this? I always thought my I-9's buzzsaw sound was a great warning for people but I had a high speed collision with some other riders coming the wrong way up a blind, high-speed corner so my faith has been shaken a bit.
    I have always thought the "noisy hub warning system" was a ridiculous justification for loud hubs. Sure my Onyx hubs are silent but even the loudest hubs are not going to reliably warn another riding coming from the other side of a blind corner, and most hikers and slow riders hear the bike without needing extra noise. I have a Spur Cycle bell for the blind corners and less aware trail users when I need to make my presence known. It is not the cheapest bell, but you get what you pay for, much like with the Onyx hubs. And for Spur Cycle owners, the little Lindarets riser mount 3d printed gizmo works well for improving cockpit position options.

  95. #295
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    I haven't had any close calls with other trail users since getting my new wheels with Onyx hubs. I do feel like I'm moving pretty silently though. If I'm moving quickly through an area without good lines of sight I'll turn on my bell (Mountain Bike Bells | TIMBER - Mountain Bike Bells by TIMBER) but otherwise I will lock it out.

    In addition to my wheels with Onyx hubs, I also have a set of Industry 9 wheels and a set of SRAM wheels. I honestly haven't felt any difference in the engagement between any of them but having a silent hub has been magical.

  96. #296
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    I recently rode Onyx hubs, they do have a slight bit of sponginess when standing on the pedals quickly and I thought it was awesome, it was like just the tiniest amount of damping.

    That said, I ordered 321 hubs because of weight and instant engagement isn't that much of a priority to me.

    PS. I have a set of NOX Kitsuma 29er boost I9 wheels for sale for $900 + shipping and PP fees if anyone is interested. Great condition.

  97. #297
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    Onyx hubs are the best, IMO.

    So quiet that anything else, like a bent brake rotor or weeds wrapped around the axle are quickly noticed.

    Got them with my wheel build from Light Bicycle, another quality product.

  98. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nat View Post
    I haven't had any close calls with other trail users since getting my new wheels with Onyx hubs. I do feel like I'm moving pretty silently though. If I'm moving quickly through an area without good lines of sight I'll turn on my bell (Mountain Bike Bells | TIMBER - Mountain Bike Bells by TIMBER) but otherwise I will lock it out.

    In addition to my wheels with Onyx hubs, I also have a set of Industry 9 wheels and a set of SRAM wheels. I honestly haven't felt any difference in the engagement between any of them but having a silent hub has been magical.
    Re Engagement, really? I thought that was the whole point of the Onyx hubs?


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  99. #299
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    I don't think Nat meant that engagement was equal between Onyx and I9; of course it's not. I think he was talking about Stealth and Onyx.

    In terms of noise, saying your noisy hubs are somehow an early warning device is absolutely ridiculous. About the only trail user who could hear a noisy hub over their own bike is a hiker and you're gonna say "hey" as soon as you see them.

    I've had four sets of Onyx hubs, still riding three sets, great hubs, long lasting, no maintenance issues, wouldn't trade them for any other hub.

    I have high poe DT350's on my XC bike, they're good hubs, but every time I ride that bike the difference in engagement leaves me wanting.

    Durable, instant engagement, high quality, supportive service, solid warranty.

    Other than price, what else do you want?

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    Hey, great tip on the bell, I ordered a bunch of scratch and dents for $10 each!

    [QUOTE=Nat;13218370]I haven't had any close calls with other trail users since getting my new wheels with Onyx hubs. I do feel like I'm moving pretty silently though. If I'm moving quickly through an area without good lines of sight I'll turn on my bell ([url=http://www.mtbbell.com/]Mountain Bike Bells | TIMBER

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