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Thread: NOX Composites?

  1. #451
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxis Gamez View Post
    Any updates guys? How are you guys liking the rims?

    Thanks!
    Holding up wonderfully with thin, bladed spokes with only two trues in past 7 months of hard, regular use. Cracked two other brand carbon rims of similar dimensions in only 3 months time on same bike, trails, tires prior to getting the NOX.
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  2. #452
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    LOVE mine. Will def try to get another set for my next build.
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  3. #453
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    Can anyone offer advice on the Skyline vs. Teocalli 29? I'm thinking of putting these on a Cannondale Scalpel for XC racing / trail riding in rocky central PA.

    I'm trying to understand why anyone would go with the Skyline over the Teocalli, considering there is only an 80g difference between the two as a set (40g each rim).

    Would the Teocalli be too wide to run something like an Ikon 2.2? This is the only thing I can think of that would steer me towards the Skyline.

    Any input is appreciated!

  4. #454
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    40g per rim is actually pretty large margin in the bike world when you are talking about rotational weight. Consider that the extremes between our lightest XC rim and heaviest AM rim is only ~90g! For pure XC riders and racers, the Skyline is the perfect rim, it's strong and plenty wide for this type of riding. If you spend most of your time trail riding with an occasional race, then the Teo is made for you. The Teo is definitely not too wide to run a 2.2. For most casual riders, the extra width of the Teo wins out, but because XC races are typically won on the climbs, rim weight (even 40g per rim) is critical to those guys/gals.
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    Gotcha, thanks! Considering the Teocalli is still way lighter than my current wheelset (Stan's Arch EX), I think I'm leaning towards towards them over the Skyline.

    Any more input from others is appreciated!

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    Here's another thing I just thought of: I only weigh 130lbs, so maybe I would be able to get away running the Skylines without giving up much in the way of stiffness? Too many choices! lol

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    Another cool option is use both, use the lighter skyline on the rear for better feel at the pedals and the wider Teocalli up front to improve stick in the corners. I have a set like that in the queue for a customer who races some but didn't want to go totally weight-weenie.

    Also, going to a 28H Teocalli vs a 32H Skyline only adds ~32g (for the 29er at least), so that's a great option for lighter riders who want the wider rim.

    Also, totally unrelated, here's a cool set I laced up this weekend. Custom decals to match the customers Rocky Mountain Altitude Rally Edition.






  8. #458
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    Nox Composites have fairly firm views as to why they build their wheels with 32 holes. @dgaddis1 What are your views on surviving a trail with a broken spoke on a 28 spoke wheel?
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  9. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewBikeGuide View Post
    Nox Composites have fairly firm views as to why they build their wheels with 32 holes. @dgaddis1 What are your views on surviving a trail with a broken spoke on a 28 spoke wheel?
    Well, there's always a bit of a gamble to play when you start cutting spoke count, but you could say the same about using *only* 32 spokes instead of 36, or 40, or 48. 32 is the new normal after all. Whether or not you get some rub with a broken spoke has a lot to do with your own personal set up too. On my personal bike (an ~09 Jabberwocky) my current wheel/tire/gear combo barely fits (32x19 which lets me nearly slam the axle forward in the dropouts, Nox XCR rims, 2.2" Ikons). I'm pretty sure even with 32 spoke wheels if I broke a spoke I'd get some rub. But, hey, what are you gonna do. I don't worry about it.

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    Just swapped my rear tire on my 27.5 Teo's. These are my first hookless rims. Are their tricks to getting the tire to seat up. Could not do it via floor pump, using Spec tires, which I have always been able to seat with a floor pump. Couldnt get it on at the gas station either. Finally got it done at the LBS where it took the mechanic and me to get it on.

    I guess you just need a compressor... and 4 hands.

  11. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dickbrown View Post
    Just swapped my rear tire on my 27.5 Teo's. These are my first hookless rims. Are their tricks to getting the tire to seat up. Could not do it via floor pump, using Spec tires, which I have always been able to seat with a floor pump. Couldnt get it on at the gas station either. Finally got it done at the LBS where it took the mechanic and me to get it on.

    I guess you just need a compressor... and 4 hands.
    Tubeless, while completely worth the hassle, is a major hassle to set up sometimes. Here's one tip for stubborn tires: set them up with a tube, let them sit for a few hours. Deflate the tube, unhook only one bead, and remove the tube, now re-inflate the tire.

    Remove the valve core.

    The problem is you can get three of the same tire, and they'll all act differently. I've had Specialized tires that set up super easily, and some that didn't. I've had Maxxis tires that were the same way. One night I mounted up one TR Maxxis tire and one non-TR, the non-TR inflated immediately, the TR was a major pain. Other TR Maxxis tires set up without an issue. WTB's TCS tires are known to not work with Stan's rims, they're too tight and most folks can't even get them onto the rim. A local customer of mine set up a set on his and didn't even need a tire lever to mount them, he said it was the easiest tubeless experience he's ever had.

    In other words: YMMV.

  12. #462
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    Thanks, I am going to try the valve core trick next time. That's the one thing I haven't ever thought of doing!

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    That's the way I do it every time, take core out use my air gun with rubber tip. Burst of air works perfect!!

  14. #464
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    Nice update guys. Anyone else? Looks like positive reviews!

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    Quote Originally Posted by attaboy View Post
    Yep, have ikon on the rear. Mine are farlows. Might give Dave a call about his experience with those. He said he runs a set of original NOX rims.
    I run the original NOX wheels as well. I normally run Schwalbe tires and they seat up just fine. However, the Rock Razors were a very poor performer on the slickrock in St George so I bought a Conti Mountain King 2.4 and the shop had holy hell getting that tire to mount up. Took 'em forever.

  16. #466
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    I know there aren't many guys left on 26 in wheels but in chance NOX will be producing a 26 in all mountain wheel anytime soon?
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    Quote Originally Posted by bridgestone14 View Post
    I know there aren't many guys left on 26 in wheels but in chance NOX will be producing a 26 in all mountain wheel anytime soon?
    They just posted a sneak peak of new rim on their facebook page, so maybe... or maybe not?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dickbrown View Post
    Thanks, I am going to try the valve core trick next time. That's the one thing I haven't ever thought of doing!
    Hey, just another trick I have used with tough to seal tires: I will throw a tube in and inflate it for a few minutes or overnight. This has solved tough to seat tires 100% for me. I have been able to get the tire to inflate with a floor pump every time afterward using this method. I tend to switch tires and wheels often so this has been a great time saver.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrj1011 View Post
    Hey, just another trick I have used with tough to seal tires: I will throw a tube in and inflate it for a few minutes or overnight. This has solved tough to seat tires 100% for me. I have been able to get the tire to inflate with a floor pump every time afterward using this method. I tend to switch tires and wheels often so this has been a great time saver.
    Hey thanks, I have done that but never over night. Will def try that out on the next new tire.

  20. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dickbrown View Post
    They just posted a sneak peak of new rim on their facebook page, so maybe... or maybe not?
    This is for road bikes.

  21. #471
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    I'm debating between the teo and the farlow and would love to hear suggestions. I'm ~180lbs without riding gear. The wheels will go on an SC bronson. Currently running a magic mary front and the new nobby nic rear (2.35). I ride in and around santa cruz, CA on a mixture of rooty steeper trails and a few smoother flowier trails. Typical rides have 2-5ft drops.

    FWIW, I've run 26'' mavic 819 and a stans arch ex and had them hold up pretty well. They're battle scarred but still going. Currently running some wtb ST i25 rims until I settle on the nox rims.

    I like the weight of the teocalli... Not sure if strength is an issue for how and where I ride. 25mm IW is the widest rim I've ridden so I just don't know to what extent the width of the farlow will improve anything.

  22. #472
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    NOX Composites?

    Farlow no question. I'm running mine on a Nomad 27.5

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    Because of the strength, width, both?

  24. #474
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    NOX Composites?

    Yes. The Farlows are awesome on the Nomad. I have 2 buddies that ride Bronson's and they too are getting Farlows. I'm sure you could get away with the Teo but IMO the Farlow is better suited for AM

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    Cool, I've been leaning farlow.

  26. #476
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    Quote Originally Posted by saucerboy View Post
    I'm debating between the teo and the farlow and would love to hear suggestions. I'm ~180lbs without riding gear. The wheels will go on an SC bronson. Currently running a magic mary front and the new nobby nic rear (2.35). I ride in and around santa cruz, CA on a mixture of rooty steeper trails and a few smoother flowier trails. Typical rides have 2-5ft drops.

    FWIW, I've run 26'' mavic 819 and a stans arch ex and had them hold up pretty well. They're battle scarred but still going. Currently running some wtb ST i25 rims until I settle on the nox rims.

    I like the weight of the teocalli... Not sure if strength is an issue for how and where I ride. 25mm IW is the widest rim I've ridden so I just don't know to what extent the width of the farlow will improve anything.
    There is only about a 30 gram difference between the 2 rims. If you are wanting to try a wider rim without going crazy-wide, the Farley is a great choice. That being said, I am riding a pair of 25mm internal width carbon hoops and am really digging the profile the rims give the tires.
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  27. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by saucerboy View Post
    I'm debating between the teo and the farlow and would love to hear suggestions. I'm ~180lbs without riding gear. The wheels will go on an SC bronson. Currently running a magic mary front and the new nobby nic rear (2.35). I ride in and around santa cruz, CA on a mixture of rooty steeper trails and a few smoother flowier trails. Typical rides have 2-5ft drops.

    FWIW, I've run 26'' mavic 819 and a stans arch ex and had them hold up pretty well. They're battle scarred but still going. Currently running some wtb ST i25 rims until I settle on the nox rims.

    I like the weight of the teocalli... Not sure if strength is an issue for how and where I ride. 25mm IW is the widest rim I've ridden so I just don't know to what extent the width of the farlow will improve anything.
    To me, Bronson = Farlow. Just my opinion though, and I ride a tallboy with XCR-29's, so take it for what it's worth.

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    NOX Composites?

    Quote Originally Posted by dustyduke22 View Post
    There is only about a 30 gram difference between the 2 rims. If you are wanting to try a wider rim without going crazy-wide, the Farley is a great choice. That being said, I am riding a pair of 25mm internal width carbon hoops and am really digging the profile the rims give the tires.
    Maybe I'm reading it wrong but I see a 70g/rim difference. 350 vs 420?
    Quote Originally Posted by ACree View Post
    To me, Bronson = Farlow. Just my opinion though, and I ride a tallboy with XCR-29's, so take it for what it's worth.
    I can see that. I have a buddy riding farlows on a mach 6 and he has good things to say.

  29. #479
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    Quote Originally Posted by saucerboy View Post
    I'm debating between the teo and the farlow and would love to hear suggestions. I'm ~180lbs without riding gear. The wheels will go on an SC bronson. Currently running a magic mary front and the new nobby nic rear (2.35). I ride in and around santa cruz, CA on a mixture of rooty steeper trails and a few smoother flowier trails. Typical rides have 2-5ft drops.

    FWIW, I've run 26'' mavic 819 and a stans arch ex and had them hold up pretty well. They're battle scarred but still going. Currently running some wtb ST i25 rims until I settle on the nox rims.

    I like the weight of the teocalli... Not sure if strength is an issue for how and where I ride. 25mm IW is the widest rim I've ridden so I just don't know to what extent the width of the farlow will improve anything.
    The Teos are already going to be far stronger than the ArchExs and the WTB rims that you haven't had any problem with. Bronson=Trailbike=Teo. If you were doing Enduro courses on a Nomad regularly, then you could maybe benefit from the Farlow. The riding you've described seems Teo. Are there really 5ft drops your hitting? Like if you stand by the drop it's up to your shoulders? Not doubting you personally, I just always wonder when I hear people tossing out numbers like 5ft drops. They seem pretty rare to me, except at Whistler. Here and there if you look for them, but not typically on most trails.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DLd View Post
    The Teos are already going to be far stronger than the ArchExs and the WTB rims that you haven't had any problem with. Bronson=Trailbike=Teo. If you were doing Enduro courses on a Nomad regularly, then you could maybe benefit from the Farlow. The riding you've described seems Teo. Are there really 5ft drops your hitting? Like if you stand by the drop it's up to your shoulders? Not doubting you personally, I just always wonder when I hear people tossing out numbers like 5ft drops. They seem pretty rare to me, except at Whistler. Here and there if you look for them, but not typically on most trails.
    You questioning me??!! Totally a fair question. Plenty of times I've been convinced something was a certain size only to stand next to it find out it wasn't at all. There are a few features around that are shoulder high from takeoff to landing though (even if the rock/log/thing itself isn't shoulder high).

    Yep, that's what had me wondering about the teocalli. They're likely stronger than the rims I've already been riding without much issue (occasional spoke replacement and truing).

    It's not particularly gnarly as far as enduro goes but one of our riding spots hosts and enduro race. I'm also not saying I'm particularly fast but I can't imagine I'm riding much slower without a number on the front of my bike than I'd ride with one. I'd be mediocre either way.

  31. #481
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    Quote Originally Posted by saucerboy View Post
    You questioning me??!! Totally a fair question. Plenty of times I've been convinced something was a certain size only to stand next to it find out it wasn't at all. There are a few features around that are shoulder high from takeoff to landing though (even if the rock/log/thing itself isn't shoulder high).

    Yep, that's what had me wondering about the teocalli. They're likely stronger than the rims I've already been riding without much issue (occasional spoke replacement and truing).

    It's not particularly gnarly as far as enduro goes but one of our riding spots hosts and enduro race. I'm also not saying I'm particularly fast but I can't imagine I'm riding much slower without a number on the front of my bike than I'd ride with one. I'd be mediocre either way.
    Ha, yeah, I hear that and I always wonder, because if a drop is up to my shoulders, I'm probably not riding it, unless I'm on a full downhill bike at Whistler and I've been building up to it.... I guess some drops I hit fast enough and land far enough downhill that maybe they'd be five feet, but I never stop to check, so I'm curious what people mean when they say that...

    Anyway, I suspect that even the Skylines would be stiffer than ArchEXs, so I don't think the Teos would be an issue.
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    Very non-technical poster here, what does 'Hookless' mean, is that opposite of thru axel? Or can u have a hookless thru axel? You can tell i just drop my bike off for tune ups.

    Also, i am all about flat surfaces...road, fire roads, grass etc. I just want a tad bit of meat on my tires for the occasional mild offroad but other than that i'd like tires that maximize speed & climbing. Any suggestions for tires for my preferences to go with a set of Skylines? Thanks

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    This may be a stupid question....But, since the asymmetric spoke holes on the NOX rims are only offset by ~2.5mm, would it not be possible to achieve the same benefit by just dishing a standard rim with centered holes slightly off center to achieve the same effect (provided there is enough clearance within the chain stays)?

    BTW: Just checked the dish on my current rear wheel and it is slightly off center (a little more than 1mm). I would have never known this without actually measuring it.

  34. #484
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    Yes you could do that, however then your rear wheel would no longer be in line with your front wheel, and you are moving both sets of spoke holes, not just the ones you want to offset.
    Scott275, I am going to assume that was a serious question. Hookless means there is no bead hook on the rim, like a car rim. as for tires look at Schwalbe's rocket ron and racing ralph. I am not saying you need to buy these tires, just that they are representative of the tread pattern you are looking for.
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    Quote Originally Posted by bridgestone14 View Post
    Yes you could do that, however then your rear wheel would no longer be in line with your front wheel, and you are moving both sets of spoke holes, not just the ones you want to offset.
    Scott275, I am going to assume that was a serious question. Hookless means there is no bead hook on the rim, like a car rim. as for tires look at Schwalbe's rocket ron and racing ralph. I am not saying you need to buy these tires, just that they are representative of the tread pattern you are looking for.
    Yes, but NOX has offset both sets of spoke holes on their rims. As far as alignment, what I was attempting to point out is that when I checked the dish on one of my wheels it is off by a mm or so and I can't say I ever noticed it riding.

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    NOX Composites?

    Quote Originally Posted by scolli View Post
    This may be a stupid question....But, since the asymmetric spoke holes on the NOX rims are only offset by ~2.5mm, would it not be possible to achieve the same benefit by just dishing a standard rim with centered holes slightly off center to achieve the same effect (provided there is enough clearance within the chain stays)?
    You might be onto something. You could offset both wheels by 2.5 mm to keep the front & rear aligned with respect to each other.
    Last edited by DennisF; 03-03-2015 at 10:17 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DennisF View Post
    You might be onto something. You could offset both wheels by 2.5 mm to keep the front & rear aligned with respect to each other.
    But, I think the front would have to be dished in the opposite direction. In either case, I do not think I would notice, while riding, that the wheels were not aligned.

    Obiously, I have to much time on my hands to be fretting over 2.5mm!

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    NOX Composites?

    I believe that the offset advantage is that, since a normal rear is already significantly dished by having different tensions on non-drive vs drive side spokes, the angle of asymmetrical rim allows you to achieve same dish with less differential spoke tension between both sides of the wheel = stronger wheel.
    Last edited by attaboy; 03-03-2015 at 06:32 AM.

  39. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by scolli View Post
    But, I think the front would have to be dished in the opposite direction.
    You're right -- I didn't think about the front rotor. I checked my Bonty Mustang wheels, and sure enough, the offsets in the front and back are opposite each other. I didn't realize that.

    If the wheels were misaligned, I don't know if you would just end up going thru the woods slightly sideways, or if it would affect stability or handling. It seems it wouldn't matter much....

    Attaboy, you hit the nail on the head with your explanation.

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    Well, I took the plunge and ordered a set: Teocalli 29 with I9 Torch hubs (blue), CX Ray spokes, blue spoke nipples and decals color matched to my frame.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AGarcia View Post
    Well, I took the plunge and ordered a set: Teocalli 29 with I9 Torch hubs (blue), CX Ray spokes, blue spoke nipples and decals color matched to my frame.
    I'll be ordering mine today as well: Teocalli 29 / i9 torch. Did you order direct with NOX? Did they give you an estimated delivery date?

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    Quote Originally Posted by scolli View Post
    I'll be ordering mine today as well: Teocalli 29 / i9 torch. Did you order direct with NOX? Did they give you an estimated delivery date?
    I ordered mine direct from the NOX website. I didn't get an response on delivery dates, but I noticed somewhere on the website calls out a 1-2 weeks for building and shipping. Seems reasonable to me as they are hand built.

  43. #493
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    NOX Composites?

    Check out ColoradoCyclist.com too. Build your Nox wheelset up how you want it

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    The project 321 hubs are better than i9, better bearing design better end caps and better ano!

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    how is 2x lacing holding up?

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    This is probably a generic question for hookless rims but since I noticed it with my Nox wheelset I thought I'd ask here:

    Will tubeless rated tires "lock" into hookless rims after the beads are seated, even when there's no air pressure inside?

    I used to run UST rims with tubeless rated (but non UST) tires and after getting the beads seated (usually using an air compressor and hearing those popping sounds), the tires were pretty much "locked" into the hook of the rim, even with all of the air removed. From there, I'd insert my sealant through the valve and use a regular floor pump to inflate to normal riding pressure with no worry over sealant spewing out. With my Nox hookless rims, after I seat the beads, the tire eventually unseats as the tire deflates, making it potentially messy as I now have to insert sealant without the tire beads securely in place.

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    Quote Originally Posted by burndtjamb View Post
    This is probably a generic question for hookless rims but since I noticed it with my Nox wheelset I thought I'd ask here:

    Will tubeless rated tires "lock" into hookless rims after the beads are seated, even when there's no air pressure inside?

    I used to run UST rims with tubeless rated (but non UST) tires and after getting the beads seated (usually using an air compressor and hearing those popping sounds), the tires were pretty much "locked" into the hook of the rim, even with all of the air removed. From there, I'd insert my sealant through the valve and use a regular floor pump to inflate to normal riding pressure with no worry over sealant spewing out. With my Nox hookless rims, after I seat the beads, the tire eventually unseats as the tire deflates, making it potentially messy as I now have to insert sealant without the tire beads securely in place.
    Get one side of the tire on, add sealant, get the other side on, inflate with the valve at the top not bottom. Done
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    As to whether the tire will stay in place or not while deflated...depends. Some tires will, some wont. Also depends on if it's a new or used tire, how long it's been on the bead shelf, etc.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dgaddis1 View Post
    As to whether the tire will stay in place or not while deflated...depends. Some tires will, some wont. Also depends on if it's a new or used tire, how long it's been on the bead shelf, etc.
    Good to know... thanks! For the record, I was mounting used tires that came off the UST wheelset and onto the Nox: Schwalbe Rocket Ron 29x2.25 Snakeskin on a Nox Teocalli and a Maxxis Ikon 29x2.2 (non EXO) TR on a Nox Skyline. The Maxxis was much looser fitting than the RoRo, and while seating the beads the Maxxis had a tendency to unseat a lot quicker than the RoRo did. Might be a function of Maxxis vs. Schwalbe beads, or using tires with reinforced sidewalls vs. not, or Teo vs. Skyline rim width, or all of the above!

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    DLd
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Get one side of the tire on, add sealant, get the other side on, inflate with the valve at the top not bottom. Done
    Heck of a lot more foolproof to just add sealant through the valvestem once the beads are seated. It's an extra step, but you avoid the chance of getting sealant in between the bead and the rim, so you get a better seal. Just dumping the sealant in and then trying to get the beads on works well about 70% of the time. It's the other 30% that sucks. Not worth the 5 minutes of time savings, imo.
    Fall in Fruita/GJ. F' yeah! Lunch Loops are riding sweet and so is everything else.

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