My friend told me to run the Maxxis Minion DHF EXO 2.5 (non UST) on my All Mountain bike. I have DT Swiss EX 500 tubeless compatible rims. I want to run these tires tubeless. Does anyone have any experience doing this? I have never run tubeless in the past and this is going to be my first tubeless setup. Would you consider this a "Ghetto Tubeless" setup? I have read accounts of ghetto tubeless setups getting bloody.
Thanks,
Unity
The tire has a regular (i.e. non-UST) bead, and can blow off the rim under certain situations (like jumping and landing to flat, landing sideways, etc.)
I ran that same tire/rim combo both front and rear, also tubeless, 2 summers ago. The front would burp, but the rear never gave me any problems. I ran the front about 24-25psi and the rear about 28-29
I ran the DHF exo on DT 5.1D rims (I think they're the precursor to the EX500) with Maxxis rimstrips and with ghetto tubeless conversion for about two years (two or three sets of tires).
Like jason300b I had a couple burping episodes in extreme sideload conditions on really grippy (granite/slickrock) surfaces in the front when I ran lower pressure using the rim strip but only when it was first installed. It seems like once it was well seated for a few weeks and I made sure I had at least 25-28lbs up front I never had another issue.
In the rear I never had any burping issues with either the rim strip or the ghetto setup running between 25-30 lbs mostly (sometimes less though).
Havn't personally run that setup, but we (shop I work at) recommend that tire in tubeless setups all the time however it is mainly on Stan's or Frequency rims. More often than not we steer people away from DT rims as they are more difficult to build/seat/work with.
Ran those for a year tubeless on Flow rims with yellow tape. No burping or stability issues. I weigh 190 and ran 24/26 PSI on everything from super d races to bike parks. No problem. Best tire ever, still.
Hi, I am using DHF EXO on the front and the rear on DT SWISS 2200 2009 model and it has the rims you are talking about. I have been running this set up for about 2 years with pressure 21 up to 26 for the front and 23 psi up to 28 psi for the back and have 0 problems. By the way I did not see how old is this tread so by now you might be well on your way.
Huh. Never had an issue with mine. On Flow rims with yellow tape, low to mid 20's, 195lb rider, expert-ish from Whistler to Steven's Pass bike parks. Worked fine for me. Ran them for years.
Sorry to resurrect the thread, but this tire sounds like an ideal choice for a front in dry SoCal riding conditions. I run tubeless now on my Turner 5.Spot with Frequency i23's. Sounds like guys with tubeless rims (Stan's/WTB Frequency) are running this 2.5 DHF just fine set-up tubeless with no burping??? Rear tire is definitely going Maxxis TR, prob 2.35 HRII or DHRII. Opinions please!
I just tried to mount a 3C/EXO 2.5 DHF to a WTB Frequency i23 and completely failed. Did the typical Stans goop and air compressor deal. It didn't even begin to seat.
The key to new tires with folding beads is to put your whole hand over the tread directly above the valve core and PUSH down as you hit the valve with an air compressor. This helps to push the tire beads against the rim to air up. I've never had a problem with DHF's and that's what I've been running for over 5 years.
OR you can use a tube overnight which will form a new tire back into shape.
JFL, I had a similar experience. Went 2.5 DHF 3C/Exo up front, 2.3 HRII TR-casing out back; both on i23s. The DHF was a beast. Heart nearly exploded using a floor pump - fail. Standard air compressor - nope. Eventually took it to LBS and they removed my air valve core, bingo. Never really popped like my TR tires do as they're seating but so far so good. Kinda PITA process but if these tires are as good as people say they are, it'll be worth it. Interestingly the HRII (TR casing) seated super easy (less effort than WTB's TCS tires) with just a floor pump.
Had a few short easy rides on the tires and they feel awesome. Will be pushing these harder on tonight's ride. Good luck.
JFL, I had a similar experience... Eventually took it to LBS and they removed my air valve core, bingo. Never really popped like my TR tires do as they're seating but so far so good. Kinda PITA process but if these tires are as good as people say they are, it'll be worth it. Interestingly the HRII (TR casing) seated super easy (less effort than WTB's TCS tires) with just a floor pump.
Similar experience-- over the weekend I mounted the tire with a tube and filled it to max psi and let it sit for about half an hour. Then I deflated it, removed the tube (the bead on one side stayed locked), filled with Stan's, inserted a tubeless valve, removed the valve core and inflated with a floor pump. Worked like a charm. Beads popped and everything. Then I took it back to max psi so that when I pulled the pump head off the air couldn't escape fast enough to really deflate the tire, and was able to get the core back in with a lot of pressure left. Aired it back up and let it sit overnight at high pressure after taking a spin through the neighborhood and leaning hard in both directions. Given the reports of burping I wanted to really seat the mother.
Took it out Sunday morning and ripped a few laps down Sandy Ridge (Mt. Hood, OR). This tire f'n RULES. It was greasy with lots of wet loam, rock gardens, some standing mud-- not the ideal condition for this tire, I've been told-- and it stayed locked into every lean better than my previous Butchers ever did, and certainly better than the HRII, which excels in those conditions. To be fair, I was riding standard Butchers, not the SX casing, and the casing makes a big difference. But at any rate, under sketchy conditions this tire had me riding more aggressively than I normally do in the dry. It only packed up with mud a little bit, not enough to affect anything.
I ran it at 25psi. DHRII 2.3 60a in the rear at 27psi.
Running DHF 3C EXO 2.5 single ply on the front. Awesome tires in every ways. Never burp or converting tubeless issue. Only thing I dont like is how difficult it is to pop the bead off the rim (Easton Carbon Haven) so I can add more Stans goo. Requires Gorilla strength and 30+ minutes of struggle just to pop the bead off. I guess it's a good thing. If anyone has similar issue and has a suggestion on how to pop the bead (meaning break the seal) from rim let me know.
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