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  1. #1
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    Mavic XM 819 UST Question

    Does the Mavic XM 819 rim require "special" spokes and nipples?

    Saturday I totally bent the WTB Laser(something) rear wheel that came on my Trance X2. Trying to learn if I buy the Mavic UST rim will I also need to buy spokes and nipples.

    Thanks,
    Terry

  2. #2
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    the 819 uses standarn spokes and nipples BUT
    1) uses a adaptor that screws into the rim, and holds the nipple in

    2) are you thinking of re-using the spokes/nipples? usually a bad more as they are worn, stretched too, and odds are they are a bit different size anyways.
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  3. #3
    Guesswho117
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    Quote Originally Posted by elder_mtber
    Does the Mavic XM 819 rim require "special" spokes and nipples?

    Saturday I totally bent the WTB Laser(something) rear wheel that came on my Trance X2. Trying to learn if I buy the Mavic UST rim will I also need to buy spokes and nipples.

    Thanks,
    Terry
    You do not need any special spokes but Mavic does recommend using 16mm length nipples which can be difficult to find. But FYI 14mm nipples will work just fine.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by elder_mtber
    Does the Mavic XM 819 rim require "special" spokes and nipples?

    Saturday I totally bent the WTB Laser(something) rear wheel that came on my Trance X2. Trying to learn if I buy the Mavic UST rim will I also need to buy spokes and nipples.

    Thanks,
    Terry
    standard spokes, 16mm nipples are recommended. if you use shorter nipples, theres a chance they could fall into the rim during building. don't know how big a pain it would be to get them out, as i've only used the 16mm nipples on 819s and they physically can't fall in.
    you do need mavic's "skrewed eyelets" to hold the nipples in the rim.

  5. #5
    Prez NMBA
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    does anybody know what tool you use to deal with those mavic eyelets?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmba guy
    does anybody know what tool you use to deal with those mavic eyelets?
    this one.
    it looks somewhat similar to the spoke wrench, but the spline is different, so be careful ordering.

  7. #7
    Former Bike Wrench
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmba guy
    does anybody know what tool you use to deal with those mavic eyelets?
    Mavic Eyelet Tool

  8. #8
    Feeding your addiction
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    This tool is far superior in my experience....
    https://www.bti-usa.com/public/quick...cription/sw-13

    Larry
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  9. #9
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    Thanks for the great responses everyone!

    One more question - when purchasing an XM 819 rim are those skrewed eyelets included with the rim or do you usually have to buy them separately?

    Terry

  10. #10
    Habitual Line Stepper
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    Eyelets are included with the rims.

    Nipples and spokes are extra

  11. #11
    Habitual Line Stepper
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    double post .............

  12. #12
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    Thanks everyone for the great posts. Now I just need to decide what to do.

    Nashbar has the WTB rim I bent for 34.99 + shipping. I could re-use the spokes (straight 14's) and brass nipples. Pretty inexpensive.

    But I want to get the Mavic UST rim ($95 or so), DT Swiss 14/15/14 spokes and aluminum nipples ($50 or so) and I would have to buy the Mavic UST valve ($15).

    About $150 + shipping.

    Decisions decisions.

    Terry

  13. #13
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    the rim comes with a valve too

  14. #14
    EDR
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    All misc hardware is included with the rim purchase. You'll need to supply spokes and nipples. I've also read that brass nipples, although hardly required, are a good idea due to the spoke nipple/eyelet interface. I am not a wheel builder, just repeating what I have read from some people who are. I'm sure there are other builders who will poo poo on that idea for whatever reason.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather
    standard spokes, 16mm nipples are recommended. if you use shorter nipples, theres a chance they could fall into the rim during building. don't know how big a pain it would be to get them out, as i've only used the 16mm nipples on 819s and they physically can't fall in.
    you do need mavic's "skrewed eyelets" to hold the nipples in the rim.
    meltingfeather - where do you think I could buy the 16mm DT Swiss nipples?

    Thanks again,
    Terry

  16. #16
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    Follow up

    OK, I finished tensioning the spokes and truing the wheel. About 23 on the Park tensionmeter for the drive side, 18 on the other. 14/15/14 spokes with the 16mm alloy nipples.

    As I neared completion of spoke tensioning it "felt" like the nipples were cutting new threads in the spokes. But the spoke tension increased so I carried on.

    I am positive a 1mm or 2mm shorter spoke would be better than the 268's I used.

    All I gotta do now is ride it!

    Thanks everyone,
    Terry

  17. #17
    cdouble
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    Need some help getting #9 unstuck

    I am a little stuck on disassembling my XT rear hob (M756). Here is where I stand:

    According to the shimano parts list, I have successfully removed:
    * #15, #3, #14, and #13 on the NDS
    * #3, #4, #5, #7, and #8 on the DS.

    What I can't seem to figure out is how to remove #9 on the DS because it is recessed into the freehub body (see image in lower-right) so there is no obvious way to get a wrench onto it. I am sure I'm missing something obvious, hoping someone can get me unstuck.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Mavic XM 819 UST Question-wheel.jpg  

    cdouble

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  18. #18
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdouble
    I am a little stuck on disassembling my XT rear hob (M756). Here is where I stand:

    According to the shimano parts list, I have successfully removed:
    * #15, #3, #14, and #13 on the NDS
    * #3, #4, #5, #7, and #8 on the DS.

    What I can't seem to figure out is how to remove #9 on the DS because it is recessed into the freehub body (see image in lower-right) so there is no obvious way to get a wrench onto it. I am sure I'm missing something obvious, hoping someone can get me unstuck.

    First, this question would have been better as a new thread.

    The hub disassembly: You did not need to touch the driveside parts. Just remove the non-driveside locknut, spacers and cone, and slide the axle out of the hub from the driveside.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by elder_mtber
    OK, I finished tensioning the spokes and truing the wheel. About 23 on the Park tensionmeter for the drive side, 18 on the other. 14/15/14 spokes with the 16mm alloy nipples.

    As I neared completion of spoke tensioning it "felt" like the nipples were cutting new threads in the spokes. But the spoke tension increased so I carried on.

    I am positive a 1mm or 2mm shorter spoke would be better than the 268's I used.

    All I gotta do now is ride it!

    Thanks everyone,
    Terry
    Nice!
    Alloy nipples physically can not "cut" threads into steel. If tension increased the whole way, you are fine. The longer the spokes, the better, as long as they don't bottom out and you have at least 1-2 mm for adjustments down the road, if needed. With the 819s there is no way to know how much room you have, so call it good.
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    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
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