Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 27
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    1,003

    A little help going tubeless w/compressor

    What I have:

    Bontrager Race Lite TLR wheels
    Bontrager XR1 tire (NON-TLR version)
    Bontrager wheel specific rim strips & valves
    4cfm/8gallon compressor


    I installed the rim strip and valve and put the tire on and blasted it with air and it started to seat but immediately lost air every time I let off the compressed air (it never did make an audible *pop*). I haven't tried sealant yet because I don't have removable valve cores and wanted to make sure I could seat the tire first--glad I didn't waste the sealant for that. I haven't tried soapy water or a bungee cord around it or anything other than blasting it with air.

    What steps SHOULD I try before just going out to buy TLR specific tires? This isn't a big deal, just want to make sure I'm not giving up too easily when I'm at the cusp of making it work.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: broz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    230
    if the valve core is removable, remove it. This will greatly increase the air throughput. I always use soapy water. Simply take a rag (towel or sweatshirt works great). Put some dish soap directly on the rag. Dip in a small amount of water. squeeze/wipe the bead on both sides. use the air.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    1,003
    Not removable. What now?

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: broz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    230
    watery soap?

  5. #5
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    47,290

    A little help going tubeless w/compressor

    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    What I have:

    Bontrager Race Lite TLR wheels
    Bontrager XR1 tire (NON-TLR version)
    Bontrager wheel specific rim strips & valves
    4cfm/8gallon compressor


    I installed the rim strip and valve and put the tire on and blasted it with air and it started to seat but immediately lost air every time I let off the compressed air (it never did make an audible *pop*). I haven't tried sealant yet because I don't have removable valve cores and wanted to make sure I could seat the tire first--glad I didn't waste the sealant for that. I haven't tried soapy water or a bungee cord around it or anything other than blasting it with air.

    What steps SHOULD I try before just going out to buy TLR specific tires? This isn't a big deal, just want to make sure I'm not giving up too easily when I'm at the cusp of making it work.
    Use TLR tires.
    Plenty of soapy water.
    Floor pump.

    The Bonty TLR valves all have removable cores.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    1,003
    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    Use TLR tires.
    Plenty of soapy water.
    Floor pump.

    The Bonty TLR valves all have removable cores.
    Is there a reason I shouldn't use the compressor?

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    3,830
    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    Is there a reason I shouldn't use the compressor?
    I always try with a floor pump first. With my Mavic rims (UST), I think I only had one Geax tire that would not seat with the core out and high volume pump.


    To me, a good test of the UST/tubeless ready tire/rim compatibility is doing it with a floor pump.

    With my WTB I23 rims, only half of my tires have seated with just the floor pump. The square channel in the UST rims sure help air flow.

    Another reason to use the floor pump first is blow off. When firing that much air into a tire that fast, you do increase you chance of blowing the bead off. One has to find that "sweet spot" with their set up of high enough air flow, but not so much you increase your risk of the bead blowing off.

    A good tire and rim should not blow off with normal compressor air flow and volumes out there. However, if you are using a rim/tire combo that is iffy, you may get that infamous boom that has your wife running out to the garage.
    Last edited by ziscwg; 08-05-2013 at 10:46 AM.
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    1,003
    Thanks. The guys at the LBS said that the cores werent removable but I haven't actually tried.

  9. #9
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    47,290

    A little help going tubeless w/compressor

    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    Is there a reason I shouldn't use the compressor?
    You do not need it. Easy to mount with a floor pump.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    3,830
    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    Thanks. The guys at the LBS said that the cores werent removable but I haven't actually tried.
    If they truely are not removable, swap them out. A set of Stans/WTB stems would cost you $15 if you pay full price. That $15 will be saved in headaches for yrs to come.
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    1,003
    Quote Originally Posted by ziscwg View Post
    If they truely are not removable, swap them out. A set of Stans/WTB stems would cost you $15 if you pay full price. That $15 will be saved in headaches for yrs to come.
    They seemed like they didn't know what they were talking about so I'll try tonight.

  12. #12
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    47,290
    Quote Originally Posted by ziscwg View Post
    If they truely are not removable, swap them out. A set of Stans/WTB stems would cost you $15 if you pay full price. That $15 will be saved in headaches for yrs to come.
    The Bonty TLR valves are VASTLY better on the TLR rimstrips. Solid, seal easily, durable, removable cores. Still using my 9 year old valves. Also have newer ones for other wheels. Never a leak or failure.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    1,003
    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    The Bonty TLR valves are VASTLY better on the TLR rimstrips. Solid, seal easily, durable, removable cores. Still using my 9 year old valves. Also have newer ones for other wheels. Never a leak or failure.
    I have Bonty strips specific to my wheels and I think Bonty valves too. They said the cores weren't removable but I haven't tried. Are all Bonty ones removable?

  14. #14
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    47,290

    A little help going tubeless w/compressor

    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    I have Bonty strips specific to my wheels and I think Bonty valves too. They said the cores weren't removable but I haven't tried. Are all Bonty ones removable?
    Yes, all removable core, from day one. Look for the "wrench" flats in the threaded portion (for the valve cap) at the top.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  15. #15
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    47,290

    A little help going tubeless w/compressor

    FYI

    <iframe frameborder="0" scrolling="no" width="425" height="240" src="http://api.smugmug.com/services/embed/2645166457_Xt8f6Ms?width=425&height=240"></iframe>
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    1,003
    I got it to pop in place partially once I got the valve core out (stupid LBS said they weren't removable), but it wouldn't hold air so I bought a set of X-King Continentals.

    Finally got it to fully pop in place and hold air... Now how do I add sealant without all the air rushing out?

  17. #17
    dwt
    dwt is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dwt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    3,549

    A little help going tubeless w/compressor

    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    Use TLR tires.
    Plenty of soapy water.
    Floor pump.

    The Bonty TLR valves all have removable cores.
    +1

    Personally I always use sealant with TLR tires. The casings are not necessarily air tight like UST. For example, IME Schwalbe RoRo's will seat but tend to lose air overnight through pinprick sized holes in the sidewall. Sealant generally seals that. If not, I dab superglue from the outside. That plus sealant inside plugs em up for good.
    Old enough to know better. And old enough not to care. Best age to be.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    1,003
    Success!

    Installed rim strip and valve
    Removed valve core (stupid LBS said these ones weren't removable)
    Put tire on (no soapy water)
    Hit it with compressor to seat the bead
    Installed valve core
    Deflated tire and unseated part of the bead
    Poured in Sealand
    Re-installed that section of tire
    Aired to desired pressure



    Now... the rear tire has a bit of a wobble. I know tires are rarely 100% true but this is enough to make the bike shake a little when the wheel is spun at a high speed when on the stand. I haven't tried riding it yet. Is this a problem?

  19. #19
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    47,290

    A little help going tubeless w/compressor

    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    Success!

    Installed rim strip and valve
    Removed valve core (stupid LBS said these ones weren't removable)
    Put tire on (no soapy water)
    Hit it with compressor to seat the bead
    Installed valve core
    Deflated tire and unseated part of the bead
    Poured in Sealand
    Re-installed that section of tire
    Aired to desired pressure



    Now... the rear tire has a bit of a wobble. I know tires are rarely 100% true but this is enough to make the bike shake a little when the wheel is spun at a high speed when on the stand. I haven't tried riding it yet. Is this a problem?
    It is easier to put the sealant in through the valve stem.

    If the tire is wobbling it is likely the bead is not completely seated. The Race Lites are tougher than most to get that last bit in place. This is where the soapy water helps greatly, and not unseating the tire for sealant once the beads are in place.

    And a TLR tire is still the better choice.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    1,003
    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    It is easier to put the sealant in through the valve stem.

    If the tire is wobbling it is likely the bead is not completely seated. The Race Lites are tougher than most to get that last bit in place. This is where the soapy water helps greatly, and not unseating the tire for sealant once the beads are in place.

    And a TLR tire is still the better choice.
    I bought TLR tires. Turns out the wobble was because the bead wasn't seated all the way and the tire was flat this morning. I aired it back up and it didn't fully seat until 55psi and the wobble is gone now.

    You think my sealant is all dried out from being partially exposed to air all night?

  21. #21
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    47,290

    A little help going tubeless w/compressor

    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    I bought TLR tires. Turns out the wobble was because the bead wasn't seated all the way and the tire was flat this morning. I aired it back up and it didn't fully seat until 55psi and the wobble is gone now.

    You think my sealant is all dried out from being partially exposed to air all night?
    Use soapy water.
    Do not inflate more than ~50psi.
    Even if the bead does not seat immediately, just let it sit. Will likely seat on its own.

    The sealant should be fine. You need to rotate and shake, and ride the tire to distribute the sealant. Can still take a couple of days to seal up completely.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    1,003
    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    Use soapy water.
    Do not inflate more than ~50psi.
    Even if the bead does not seat immediately, just let it sit. Will likely seat on its own.

    The sealant should be fine. You need to rotate and shake, and ride the tire to distribute the sealant. Can still take a couple of days to seal up completely.
    Does the water help seat? I used it on the front and it seated at 35psi, forgot on the rear and it took til 55 but I assumed coincidence. I read a few posts on here that said 60-70psi can be needed to seat.

    I shook the tire around and pedaled with the bike on the stand to distribute sealant.

  23. #23
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    47,290

    A little help going tubeless w/compressor

    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    Does the water help seat? I used it on the front and it seated at 35psi, forgot on the rear and it took til 55 but I assumed coincidence. I read a few posts on here that said 60-70psi can be needed to seat.

    I shook the tire around and pedaled with the bike on the stand to distribute sealant.
    The soapy water is a lubricant. Helps the beads slip into place. Better to do this than use high pressure. You do not want to exceed the max pressure rating.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    1,003
    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    The soapy water is a lubricant. Helps the beads slip into place. Better to do this than use high pressure. You do not want to exceed the max pressure rating.
    Max pressure is 65 but I'll use soap for both next time. Less pumping on my end!

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    938
    Once you do it a few times, you will be changing out the tires in no time. I used to use a compressor and all sorts of extra/unecessary steps.

    Now I just put the tire on, fill it up with a floor pump and seat the bead, let the air out, pull the valve core, install sealant into through the valve, reinstall core, and pump it back up. Takes no time at all and no noisy compressor.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. About to buy a compressor to go tubeless
    By Alias530 in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 07-30-2013, 08:11 PM
  2. Small air compressor for tubeless tires?
    By tommyturbo in forum Specialized
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 07-05-2013, 11:58 AM
  3. Tubeless/Air Compressor Newbie
    By EasyLiving in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 10-04-2012, 03:40 PM
  4. Air Compressor for Tubeless - Minimum Specs?
    By vwvoodoo in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 10-04-2012, 12:03 PM
  5. Tubeless Compressor - Too Big?
    By naiku in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 07-29-2012, 12:17 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •