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  1. #301
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    Quote Originally Posted by light bicycle View Post
    We have a few new website improvements I thought I would share with MTBR:

    1. Our inventory system is now linked to our website. When you are choosing rims or wheelsets, the lead time will be displayed


    Attachment 1071350
    The lead time is either, "In stock and will ship within 2 business days", or "Will be manufactured and shipped soon"

    Your company might do well to contact the buyer immediately after ordering (just as you did to confirm my shipping address) with an approximate timeline...as in, "we cannot give you a definite date, but it will be at least 2 weeks before we turn out another production run." Perhaps your buyers don't understand the lead-time that is necessary to produce some of your less-popular models of rims amid the volume of production/backlog at any given time, but you do.

    You have my order cancellation request in your mailbox.

  2. #302
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    These wheels are worth the wait! I own 3 pairs - about to purchase a 4th.

  3. #303
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    I'm sure they are, and I'm disappointed to cancel the order. I had 3 weeks to replace a broken rim, and placed an order for a pair of rims thinking that was a reasonable amount of time. 6 days ago when I last inquired about the status, the estimate was they would be shipped in 3-5 days. So, 2 weeks as of now, and no rims have been shipped.

    2 weeks may be reasonable. Heck, 3 or 4 weeks lead may be reasonable for production of a 26" rim they don't stock and probably don't make too often. But if I was informed that there would be a 3 or 4 week wait, or even a 2 week wait where I'm at now, I would have placed an order elsewhere so that I can rebuild my wheels before next weekend's races.

    My time constraint is not their problem, but their inability to provide/stick to a timeline is now my problem. And all I'm suggesting is that since they are the manufacturers, experts of their production timelines, they should provide an estimate that is better than "indefinite".

  4. #304
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    They prob don't stock 26 - but you can find that stuff on ebay pretty cheap. Everything I've ordered from them has come quick! Sorry it didn't work out for you. I own several pairs of "racing wheels" to prevent the very issue you are having.

  5. #305
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    When I broke a Nextie over the summer, I ordered a crash-replacement, but at the same time, I ordered and built up an aluminum rim wheel, because I needed one for a race coming up. 1st rule in the bike world is never order something when you need it by a certain date. Nextie was super-fast though and I had the rim in about a week and a half from order to doorstep, I only had to use the aluminum wheel for a couple days, but I did good in the race! I'm currently waiting for a pair of LB 65mm rims to show up, but so far the order to deliver time is normal and I'm not concerned. For whatever reason, my Nextie orders, all 3 of them, have always been faster than LB.
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  6. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nash04 View Post
    LB, Sent you a request through your custom wheel build page but haven't got a response as of yet?

    Are you guys on vacation this week?
    Sorry about that, have you gotten a response yet from our customer service team? Maybe there was an issue with the form. Could you try emailing sales@lightbicycle.com ?
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  7. #307
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    Quote Originally Posted by VegasSingleSpeed View Post
    The lead time is either, "In stock and will ship within 2 business days", or "Will be manufactured and shipped soon"

    Your company might do well to contact the buyer immediately after ordering (just as you did to confirm my shipping address) with an approximate timeline...as in, "we cannot give you a definite date, but it will be at least 2 weeks before we turn out another production run." Perhaps your buyers don't understand the lead-time that is necessary to produce some of your less-popular models of rims amid the volume of production/backlog at any given time, but you do.

    You have my order cancellation request in your mailbox.
    We appreciate the feedback, we have been working on a new upgrade to connect our inventory back-end systems with the front end of the website so consumers can see the entire stock list of our rims. This should be up and running soon!
    http://www.lightbicycle.com
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  8. #308
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    Quote Originally Posted by VegasSingleSpeed View Post
    I'm sure they are, and I'm disappointed to cancel the order. I had 3 weeks to replace a broken rim, and placed an order for a pair of rims thinking that was a reasonable amount of time. 6 days ago when I last inquired about the status, the estimate was they would be shipped in 3-5 days. So, 2 weeks as of now, and no rims have been shipped.

    2 weeks may be reasonable. Heck, 3 or 4 weeks lead may be reasonable for production of a 26" rim they don't stock and probably don't make too often. But if I was informed that there would be a 3 or 4 week wait, or even a 2 week wait where I'm at now, I would have placed an order elsewhere so that I can rebuild my wheels before next weekend's races.

    My time constraint is not their problem, but their inability to provide/stick to a timeline is now my problem. And all I'm suggesting is that since they are the manufacturers, experts of their production timelines, they should provide an estimate that is better than "indefinite".
    We had quite a bit of added pressure this past while as there were several typhoons that caused a lot of issues with production. There were so many power outages around the city that we couldn't get answers on when things would be restored so it really interrupted the production timelines. We are fairly caught up now though.
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  9. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by light bicycle View Post
    Sorry about that, have you gotten a response yet from our customer service team? Maybe there was an issue with the form. Could you try emailing sales@lightbicycle.com ?
    Finally got in touch with them and have ordered my rim, just waiting for the waybill.

  10. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nash04 View Post
    Finally got in touch with them and have ordered my rim, just waiting for the waybill.
    Did you have to email? I'm in the same boat no response to custom wheel order

  11. #311
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    Left them a message on their web page- chat link.

    Check your SPAM box.

  12. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by tahic View Post
    Did you have to email? I'm in the same boat no response to custom wheel order
    We found that recently we were not getting emails on most of the forms on our website. We've added new notifications and are going back to see what we missed by logging into the system another way. If anyone has not gotten a reply, you should hear from us shortly, or feel free to send us an email support@lightbicycle.com Sorry for the delay!!
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  13. #313
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    Well! It'll be 2 weeks that I ordered a rim and still no shipping information as of yet! Might start looking at other vendors, do really like their rims but just takes too long to ship. You figure 2 weeks to build a rim then another 1.5 weeks for shipping/custom so basically you waited at least a month before finally riding them....wow!

  14. #314
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    It took at least that long when I ordered my rims, but it was well worth the wait.
    I had the rims ordered with custom decals and both the quality and the sales support before the order were top notch.
    Honestly, no vendor with custom options would (or should) have this stuff available much earlier.


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  15. #315
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    It's worth the wait. I just checked and I have 1,250 miles on my LB 38s. Not a single problem. They are tough. I had them built locally.
    My name is Chris and I ride a Prophet 650b with a Lefty.

  16. #316
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    I have another set of their wheels and they are great but the wait is killing me especially since I haven't receive a shipping waybill as of yet!

  17. #317
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    I want a set, but I kinda want to get the Nobl because of their hubs.


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  18. #318
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    Just for reference, if you are wanting FAST turn around time on your order, then buying locally (US I'm speaking of if you're in the US) will be your answer. I've bought at least a couple dozen rims now from Light Bicycle over the years. Started back in the day with their original 26" narrow stuff.

    Anyway, this latest order on a couple of 29er rims - RM29C19

    3 October - Order placed as in paypal charged.
    8 October - Shipping address verification.
    19 October - Email from them says they will ship day after tomorrow.
    23 October - Email with shipping indication from China Post with link and shipping #.
    5 November - Delivered to me.

    So that was a little over a month from ordering to receive with $63+ for shipping which takes a little over 2 weeks to go from China to the West Coast US to clear customs and then to Hawaii.

    Is it worth it? Still expensive but I am satisfied with their product. It just requires patience. With all the wheels I've built with these, I've had only one failure and that was one with a hooked bead (old school) and it was my fault because I pinch flatted my tire (tubeless) and hit a rock (in a lava rock section) very hard. Bottom line. Would an aluminum rim survived this? No. No way.

  19. #319
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    Do you ship straight from china or do you have warehouse in europe?
    There will be 50% customs charge for bike components from china. It would be avoided if sent from Europe. 50% customs makes it more expensive then buying LBS.

  20. #320
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    Received an email last night stating the "rim" is now in the matting process and should be done next Monday?!?!?! So basically I paid for the rim on 11/02 and won't be done being built till 11/21 then ship out?!?!

    Sorry but this will be the last one that I will purchase from them even though they are very good rims, the process is way too slow, slower then last purchase.

    I'm disappointed with LB.

  21. #321
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nash04 View Post
    Received an email last night stating the "rim" is now in the matting process and should be done next Monday?!?!?! So basically I paid for the rim on 11/02 and won't be done being built till 11/21 then ship out?!?!

    Sorry but this will be the last one that I will purchase from them even though they are very good rims, the process is way too slow, slower then last purchase.

    I'm disappointed with LB.
    Yes, this is how it works, they make your rims. I just built up a pair of LB rims I received a week ago. You seem very upset that you couldn't get them in a week? Did not not research this first?Light Bicycle Carbon Rims-15078563_10100960597127848_8151895925909793320_n.jpg
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  22. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soihtu View Post
    Do you ship straight from china or do you have warehouse in europe?
    There will be 50% customs charge for bike components from china. It would be avoided if sent from Europe. 50% customs makes it more expensive then buying LBS.
    That isn't true, not even closely.
    There are customs fees, but they only include VAT and some small surcharge.
    For Germany, this is something like 4.7% for components and a little more for a full bike.


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  23. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Yes, this is how it works, they make your rims. I just built up a pair of LB rims I received a week ago. You seem very upset that you couldn't get them in a week? Did not not research this first?Click image for larger version. 

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    Nah! Guess you didn't take the time to read all of my comments since I did state that this is the second set of rim that I ordered through them and it didn't take that much time to ship it. I totally understand the portion of customs and getting to my house but it's the part of actually shipping it that I'm frustrated with.

  24. #324
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    Hi MTBR,

    Thank you for the feedback regarding our lead times, this is very helpful for us to improve our service.

    1. We are working on a live inventory system so that customers can see what we have on hand. I'll post something here when that's up and running.

    2. We manufacture a lot of different rim profiles with quite a bit of customization, so we have many thousands of combinations. For any given rim, we offer different hole count, angled drilling, matte/satin finish, different layup schedules and different styles of carbon fibre with no minimum order. This diversity means we have a bit more lead time.

    3. What's important to think about is that you are buying NEW product. Any inventory we have is not going to be old. You have to be careful with some companies as they might have a lot of inventory, but it could be several generations old and not as good as the current model.

    4. We carry inventory on our asymmetric line of rims. We are comfortable doing this as this line of products remain at the leading edge of our product development so they do not get stagnant. We only inventory the most popular styles (UD Matte 32h for example)

    5. Our finishing department is one of the best in the industry. We spend significantly more time in this area than our competitors. We could save 4+ days of lead time on average if we did shortcuts in this area, but we feel the extra layers of QC and attention to detail are of higher value.
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  25. #325
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    Here is a new link we created to show our live inventory list! We'll figure out where to incorporate this onto the website, but I thought I'd share on MTBR first.

    https://www.lightbicycle.com/rim_stock/

    Thank you!
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  26. #326
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    Exciting!

    After destroying several pairs of alloy rims, Im excited to try some nice carbon wheels. (I have ridden reynolds, which were top notch.

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  27. #327
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    Thanks to this thread, I took the plunge and bought a set of LB RM650BC13 HD in 32h. Im having a little different experience as my wheel set was in stock and ready to ship even before i ordered them. I placed my order on Fri night 11pm est. I asked for the stealth stickers found on the asymmetrical rims instead of the ones that come stock on the 38mm rims. Within 3 hours i had a tracking number stating my order has shipped. I made my order direct with vivian, but previously nancy answered all my questions extremely fast and with knowledge of the product.

    Even though i got my tracking number the item still hasnt shown in the ems system probably due to its the weekend. I ordered these rims to pair with another set of '16 Hadley's. I dont expect them here in a week but if they are here in any time frame under a month; id be happy.

    One thing that made this decision much easier is LB uses the same freight forwarder i use in china for products i import. I already discussed adding a rim or set on with one of my other orders in case of an emergency. They said no problem and since usually im paying $6 per kilo over when shipping over 50kgs from china express DHL. I could probably have a replacement rim inside of a week in an emergency. LB said shipping to my Forwarder would be $15 then $6 express from china. usually i get my stuff inside 5 days. I would have done this shipping for this order but i wont be ordering again from china until early dec.

    Im really afraid to order spokes and nipples till i measure the erd myself. Based on getting 536mm not including nipple head from vivian. Just by chance what have people been using for the erd on this wheels? Putting this on a brand new scott genius 700 premium! Super stoked!

  28. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeRock98 View Post
    Thanks to this thread, I took the plunge and bought a set of LB RM650BC13 HD in 32h. Im having a little different experience as my wheel set was in stock and ready to ship even before i ordered them. I placed my order on Fri night 11pm est. I asked for the stealth stickers found on the asymmetrical rims instead of the ones that come stock on the 38mm rims. Within 3 hours i had a tracking number stating my order has shipped. I made my order direct with vivian, but previously nancy answered all my questions extremely fast and with knowledge of the product.

    Even though i got my tracking number the item still hasnt shown in the ems system probably due to its the weekend. I ordered these rims to pair with another set of '16 Hadley's. I dont expect them here in a week but if they are here in any time frame under a month; id be happy.

    One thing that made this decision much easier is LB uses the same freight forwarder i use in china for products i import. I already discussed adding a rim or set on with one of my other orders in case of an emergency. They said no problem and since usually im paying $6 per kilo over when shipping over 50kgs from china express DHL. I could probably have a replacement rim inside of a week in an emergency. LB said shipping to my Forwarder would be $15 then $6 express from china. usually i get my stuff inside 5 days. I would have done this shipping for this order but i wont be ordering again from china until early dec.

    Im really afraid to order spokes and nipples till i measure the erd myself. Based on getting 536mm not including nipple head from vivian. Just by chance what have people been using for the erd on this wheels? Putting this on a brand new scott genius 700 premium! Super stoked!
    Hi Mike,

    The ERD we list can be on the short side for some calculators, so the safest bet is to round your spoke sizes up a bit. This spoke calculator is quite accurate, use the ERD we list and round the spokes up ~1.5mm and you can't go too wrong. If you are comfortable measuring your own ERD and have a proven method for spoke length, then that is great too. Spoke Calculator for bicycle wheels | Prowheelbuilder.com

    I would do 259 disc, 260 drive on the front and 261 disc, 259 drive on the rear (if going 3-cross). This was based on 59mm rear flange diameter and 58mm front, so you might give your hubs a double check.

    On a side note, you need to consider what nipples you are using. If you use a regular nipple, 536-537 should be okay. But If I was using a raised head like DT Squorx, or a hex head, or a double square nipple then I'd use 539 so you can get more thread engagement with this nipple.
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  29. #329
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    Wow that wasnt the response i thought i was gonna get but thank you Light Bicycle. Last wheel build i use the manufacture ERD and the wheels came out perfect.
    My hub dimensions are a little different then you stated. Ill be using normal black brass 14mm DT nipples.

    Front:
    Hub Spoke Hole Dimensions:
    Spoke Hole Circle: 57.0mm
    Center to RH Flange: 33.5mm
    Center to LH (Disc Brake Side) Flange: 22.5mm
    Spoke Hole Diameter: 2.70m


    Rear
    Hub Spoke Hole Dimensions:
    Spoke Hole Circle: 59mm
    Center to RH (Drive Side) Flange: 20.3mm
    Center to LH (Disc Brake Side) Flange: 33.7mm
    Spoke Hole Diameter: 2.70mm

    Thanks again LB, my wheels showed picked up literally 48 hours from ordering...So far your service has been awesome!

  30. #330
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    i35 rims

    I want an internal width i35mm rim. Do you guys plan on making any rims that size? I have an i40 up front on one of my bikes but have found the i35 as the best size for running 2.35 to 2.6 tires.
    Last edited by hardmtnbiker; 11-23-2016 at 05:54 PM.
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  31. #331
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    any plans for a 30mm external, 24mm internal asymmetric rim around 380g?

  32. #332
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    What's the normal length of shipping. Received the tracking number on the 19th and hasn't change since then even though I was told 4-5 days to arrive?

  33. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nash04 View Post
    What's the normal length of shipping. Received the tracking number on the 19th and hasn't change since then even though I was told 4-5 days to arrive?
    Mine didn't move for a week or so after getting the shipping number.
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  34. #334
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardmtnbiker View Post
    I want an internal width i35mm rim. Do you guys plan on making any rims that size? I have an i40 up front on one of my bikes but have found the i35 as the best size for running 2.35 to 2.6 tires.
    Are you looking for a 27.5"? Our AM733's are actually 33.6mm internally which is pretty close to what you are looking for. https://www.lightbicycle.com/EN733-a...-rims-mtb.html
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  35. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy13 View Post
    any plans for a 30mm external, 24mm internal asymmetric rim around 380g?
    Hi Andy,

    In 27.5", we make an asymmetric rim 24 internal, 30 external and they are 385g +/-15g https://www.lightbicycle.com/AM724-a...bike-rims.html

    We have some in stock at these weights currently: 379g,381g,383g,384g
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  36. #336
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nash04 View Post
    What's the normal length of shipping. Received the tracking number on the 19th and hasn't change since then even though I was told 4-5 days to arrive?
    With standard air shipping by EMS, the tracking often won't update until it lands in your country and is pending customs clearance. You might get better tracking information from your local delivery company than on the EMS website. For instance, if you happened to be in Canada, you could paste that EMS tracking number on the canadapost.ca website and you would see more info. For the US, I believe it is USPS. EMS can take longer sometimes, it is not as fast as DHL for example, but DHL is quite a bit more expensive and charges taxes etc 100% of the time.
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  37. #337
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    Finally got an update and it's in the US so that's good. DHL doesn't charge any taxes unless it's over $800 since I purchase many items through CRC which are base in Ireland and there's no fees/taxes unless it's over $800.
    Even though, DHL pilots are on strike at this moment so stay away from them for now.
    My other package is on hold since Monday in Cincinnati due to the strike...sucks!

  38. #338
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    I was actually looking for 29er.
    thanks.

  39. #339
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy13 View Post
    I was actually looking for 29er.
    thanks.
    Hi Andy,

    We made the 23mm internal 29er asymmetric rim which is 370g. I don't think we have any plans for a 24mm 29er rim.https://www.lightbicycle.com/XC923-a...bike-rims.html
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  40. #340
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    My rims arrived yesterday....Took 11days total, and in reality only took 6 business days from china over the thanksgiving week. My rims look absolutely perfect even though the box was a little mangled and there really wasnt anything to protect the rims except some super tape thin foam, but still got here without a scratch. This was a DH layup they had in stock with custom logos. Wheel weights were 506g and 510g.

    Really happy with the service so far!

  41. #341
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    I am interested in purchasing some wheels, any chance I can get them with Hope Pro 4 hubs with Center Lock, when I try the build option all the comes up is DT Swiss 350.
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  42. #342
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    try the custom wheel builder. The other day I wanted to order wheels but the DT240s centerlock boost hubs I wanted had disappeared from the regular wheel build page. I used the custom wheel builder and they're available there.

  43. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericm979 View Post
    try the custom wheel builder. The other day I wanted to order wheels but the DT240s centerlock boost hubs I wanted had disappeared from the regular wheel build page. I used the custom wheel builder and they're available there.
    Yes, sorry about that. If anyone has some special request please send us an email to sales@lightbicycle.com and we'll look into it. We sometimes have additional options that don't make their way to every product page. I don't beleive Hope's are available in centerlock but we have DT 350 and 240's in centerlock.
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  44. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by light bicycle View Post
    Yes, sorry about that. If anyone has some special request please send us an email to sales@lightbicycle.com and we'll look into it. We sometimes have additional options that don't make their way to every product page. I don't beleive Hope's are available in centerlock but we have DT 350 and 240's in centerlock.
    Thanks for getting back to me.
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  45. #345
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    Why no boost 240s in j bend 32 hole?

  46. #346
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    Greetings Light Bicycle folks!

    Question about drainage holes. I'm 14 months into an excellent build on a set of 2015 26C05 38/31.6mm hoops. They have been flawless and have seen nearly 2000 miles of technical singletrack. They visit their builder pretty regularly just for truing and tension check-ups but so far have not need any adjustment since about their first or second month.

    The only "issue" I have noticed is that just through regular maintenance and cleaning of my bike, which I keep in prime condition, the rims will take in a bit of water or maybe even end up with some inside from condensation. I avoid spraying my bike during the process as to not effect bearings, etc. I've notice lots of similar rims, Derby comes to mind, are drilling one small hole in the rim to allow for drainage of this moisture that I believe is inevitable.

    Are the newer rims you produce utilizing this same approach and could you provide thoughts on the possibility of doing this to my existing wheels? I'm thinking in terms of directions on the suitable location and distance from the hookless rim that would be necessary to insure penetration exclusively into the inner chamber.

    I'll soon be looking your direction for some hoops for a new 29'r singlespeed build I just aquired. Thanks!
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  47. #347
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    I wonder about this too. It seems to me that the only place water could get into a rim is around the valve stem as the nipple heads seal against the rim and whatever spoke thread preparation is used more or less seals that path...and the rim bed is sealed with tubeless tape or a strip. Would a hole let more in than it lets out?
    Do the math.

  48. #348
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    Agreed. Mine exudes water at times from the valve stem. It just sort of runs out and I've had people tell me I'm leaking sealant...which it's not. My biggest concern that I am monitoring now is we used double coated, double anodized alloy nipples on this build with the understanding that galvanic action could take place and while retaping the rim, noticed a build up of crust on many nipples. When cleaned off with a q-tip and alcohol, the nipples are still shiny and coatings appear intact but we're (builder and myself) not 100% certain if it's corrosion or just dried residue from a sealant seep. Having moisture in that area can't be a good thing and I'd like to give it a place to go. I think the hole like Derby, et al has is beneficial. When I put my bike to sleep, I could just time the wheels so the hole is oriented at 6 o'clock and would allow water to escape.
    Always ride with a purpose.

  49. #349
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    Regarding drain holes in our rims, the area should be reinforced if there were to be a hole drilled in there. So we can not recommend drilling an existing rim. None of our rims have drain holes drilled into them. If you want to completely dry your rim out once in a while, the best bet is to do this with the tire a tape removed. You can spin the wheel and the centrifugal force will spit any water out of the rim. Then leave the rim to dry out before sealing it back up.
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  50. #350
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    Are there any end of year or holiday sales coming up?

  51. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snopro440 View Post
    Are there any end of year or holiday sales coming up?
    Is it the end of the Chinese year?
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  52. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Is it the end of the Chinese year?
    I appreciate your helpful response. It is the type of helpful response that is so common here that people keep coming back seeking the assistance of kind people like yourself.

    I have checked, and January 1st is a national holiday in China, celebrating, holy cow, NEW YEAR. Do they also have Chineese new year on or about January 28th, yep. So yes, it is the end of both years to answer your question.

    https://www.timeanddate.com/holidays/china/2017
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Public_holidays_in_China

    Again, thanks for the help. I honestly didn't know the date of Chineese new year other than it was a few weeks after January 1st and now I do because I looked it up.

  53. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snopro440 View Post
    Are there any end of year or holiday sales coming up?
    Not that I can think of, but you can always send us an email and let us know what your hub standards are and what sort of rims you are looking at for example and we can see if there are any discounted products available.
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  54. #354
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    Has anyone received the recently available 27.5+ rims (asym, 40mm internal, 46mm external) and measured the ERD?

    I am in a time pinch and may need to order spokes before I can measure the rims I receive.

  55. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    Has anyone received the recently available 27.5+ rims (asym, 40mm internal, 46mm external) and measured the ERD?

    I am in a time pinch and may need to order spokes before I can measure the rims I receive.
    I would suggest to measure the erd when the rims get there. I'd order the nipples now since they aren't the easiest part to find in 14mm.

    I got super impatient too but was glad I waited. I asked light bicycle the erd and if I would have used there calculations my spokes would have been way long. Then I measured using some old 16mm nipples I had laying around and even when I compensated for the longer nipples. Once again my spokes would have been 1mm too long. Finally I got my 14mm dt nipples. Measured the erd a final time and got a final spoke which is used.

    I buy custom rolled double butted spokes done on a Phil wood spoke cutter. I probably would have been fine either way but I like my wheels bulletproof and ordering the right sized spoke is crucial to that.

    Good luck on the build. Stuff from China is coming a few days later as its busy season right now

  56. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    Has anyone received the recently available 27.5+ rims (asym, 40mm internal, 46mm external) and measured the ERD?

    I am in a time pinch and may need to order spokes before I can measure the rims I receive.
    What hubs are you building with? I can check with the wheel builders. What spokes and nipples are you planning on using?
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  57. #357
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    New LB Jersey's are available now! Click here for more details.

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  58. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by light bicycle View Post
    What hubs are you building with? I can check with the wheel builders. What spokes and nipples are you planning on using?
    DT 350 centerlock boost 148 rear 110 front
    Sapim Race (2/1.8/2) J bend 14mm Sapim brass nipples
    3X 32H

  59. #359
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeRock98 View Post
    I got super impatient too but was glad I waited. I asked light bicycle the erd and if I would have used there calculations my spokes would have been way long. Then I measured using some old 16mm nipples I had laying around and even when I compensated for the longer nipples. Once again my spokes would have been 1mm too long. Finally I got my 14mm dt nipples. Measured the erd a final time and got a final spoke which is used.
    Was this with the aforementioned 27.5 asym i40 rims? If so, what ERD did you use and what was your measuring method?

  60. #360
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    I can't get the tire off my new LightBicycle wheels! AM928 rims, Schwable NobbyNic 2.3. I taped up the rim with a single layer of Stans and mounted the tire with a tube to compress the tape. Now I can't break the beads. The beadlocks in the rim work too well.

    Any hints? If the tires don't loosen up its going to make it difficult to put a tube in flat tires on the trail.

  61. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    Was this with the aforementioned 27.5 asym i40 rims? If so, what ERD did you use and what was your measuring method?
    No it was with one of there 35mm DH wheels. And even if i did have the erd. It might be different as you are using Sapim nipples.

    When I used my old 16mm nipples compared to dt 14mm I used on the build there was significant difference in nipple head height which contributed to a different spoke size needed.

    My measuring method is outlined in roger musson wheel building book where you use 2x 200mm cut spokes and measure the distance between the spokes when threaded into the wheels.

    I triple checked my measurements then ordered the spokes.

  62. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    DT 350 centerlock boost 148 rear 110 front
    Sapim Race (2/1.8/2) J bend 14mm Sapim brass nipples
    3X 32H
    Disc Front: 263 or 264mm
    Drive Front: 265 or 266mm
    Disc Rear: 264 or 265mm
    Drive Rear: 263 or 264mm
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  63. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericm979 View Post
    I can't get the tire off my new LightBicycle wheels! AM928 rims, Schwable NobbyNic 2.3. I taped up the rim with a single layer of Stans and mounted the tire with a tube to compress the tape. Now I can't break the beads. The beadlocks in the rim work too well.

    Any hints? If the tires don't loosen up its going to make it difficult to put a tube in flat tires on the trail.
    I've run those rims without tight fitting tires, but I've got Maxxis. Schwalbe's can be hit and miss dimensionally, are they a tubeless ready version? Tubeless ready tires seem to have more stable dimensions. Having tubeless sealant in there lubricates things a bit, if you put them on dry with a tube initially that would be part of the reason it's tighter for sure. One thing you could try is 18mm tape in the center so it does not go over the bead seats.
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  64. #364
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    Quote Originally Posted by light bicycle View Post
    Disc Front: 263 or 264mm
    Drive Front: 265 or 266mm
    Disc Rear: 264 or 265mm
    Drive Rear: 263 or 264mm
    Based on an ERD of ???

    I appreciate the assistance but it would be even better if you published a spec. These pseudo-pre-production models don't seem to get their specs on the website until they've been shipping for months and months.

  65. #365
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeRock98 View Post
    No it was with one of there 35mm DH wheels. And even if i did have the erd. It might be different as you are using Sapim nipples.

    When I used my old 16mm nipples compared to dt 14mm I used on the build there was significant difference in nipple head height which contributed to a different spoke size needed.

    My measuring method is outlined in roger musson wheel building book where you use 2x 200mm cut spokes and measure the distance between the spokes when threaded into the wheels.

    I triple checked my measurements then ordered the spokes.
    I recognize that it is best practice to measure ERD directly before ordering spokes, but as I mentioned in my original inquiry, I may not have time to do so and still get spokes shipped before I need to be riding.

    If there were two folks here who built w/ these rims recently, and happened to measure ERD that aligned w/ LB published ERD, then I could order spokes with relative confidence that they'll work. The ERD varies little between random production units. In my experience, the variation is more often based on the manufacturer not being clear about their measuring "location", or not updating specs (or even typos). As you point out, even directly measured ERD can vary slightly based on preferred nipple, or final spoke seating depth preference. But so long as the folks who measured ERD also describe their nipples/method, I can "interpolate" to a reasonable prediction for my own nipples.

  66. #366
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    Quote Originally Posted by light bicycle View Post
    Disc Front: 263 or 264mm
    Drive Front: 265 or 266mm
    Disc Rear: 264 or 265mm
    Drive Rear: 263 or 264mm
    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    Based on an ERD of ???

    I appreciate the assistance but it would be even better if you published a spec. These pseudo-pre-production models don't seem to get their specs on the website until they've been shipping for months and months.
    Doing the math backwards, it looks like you're using 544mm ??

    Also looks like maybe the 2.8mm offset wasn't accounted for, at least in the front hub. My DS/NDS length difference computes to only 0.9mm (front) and 0.8mm (rear).

    EDIT: based on the cross-sectional drawing, the ERD should be 594 - 2*28 + 2*t(r) + 2*t(n), where t(r) = thickness of rim at nipple hole and t(n) = depth into nipple of threads. That math implies that the LB ERD figure is based on t(n)=0, ie spoke end coincident with the inner rim wall.

  67. #367
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    Here's the rim cross section fwiw so others can follow if they so please . . .

    Light Bicycle Carbon Rims-rm650bc22-am740-.jpg

  68. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    Based on an ERD of ???

    I appreciate the assistance but it would be even better if you published a spec. These pseudo-pre-production models don't seem to get their specs on the website until they've been shipping for months and months.
    I ran it on the DT Swiss calculator using your hubs at 544 and 546 ERD to check the range and posted sizes that should be a safe bet.
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  69. #369
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    Interesting that you are using two different ERDs. Are you using the stock values for the hub flange spacing?

  70. #370
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    This is why I waited. Rather then having a messed up wheel set

  71. #371
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    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    Interesting that you are using two different ERDs. Are you using the stock values for the hub flange spacing?
    The ERD is always a bit different from rim to rim so I use a 2mm range to account for that. I used stock measurements, so perhaps going with the longer sized spokes would be the best estimate to go by seeing as how they were boost hubs.

    We just built a set up on some boost I9's so I double checked those and they had the perfect lengths. I checked the Pro Wheelbuilder calculator and it was perfectly accurate based on a 545mm ERD which is right in the middle of the range I mentioned previously. It said 264.1 left, 262.2 rear and we used 264 left 263 right and it was correct. The asymmetrical profile will typically add half a millimeter onto the short side and reduce half a millimeter on the long side.
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  72. #372
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    Quote Originally Posted by light bicycle View Post
    The ERD is always a bit different from rim to rim so I use a 2mm range to account for that. I used stock measurements, so perhaps going with the longer sized spokes would be the best estimate to go by seeing as how they were boost hubs.

    We just built a set up on some boost I9's so I double checked those and they had the perfect lengths. I checked the Pro Wheelbuilder calculator and it was perfectly accurate based on a 545mm ERD which is right in the middle of the range I mentioned previously. It said 264.1 left, 262.2 rear and we used 264 left 263 right and it was correct. The asymmetrical profile will typically add half a millimeter onto the short side and reduce half a millimeter on the long side.
    Is this a long winded way of saying the ERD is 545mm +/- 1mm??

    So you didn't adjust the flange spacing or make other accommodations to correct for the 2.8mm asymmetry? Or for the 2mm offset of all spoke holes relative to that asym line? I know we're taking mm's here, but its sloppy.

    Frankly I don't understand the reluctance to publish an ERD spec. And even when asked, to attempt to deduce it based on previous wheel builds. Does LB not specify a wall thickness in the layup (which would yield an ERD based on equation above)? Do you not measure ERD post-production?

    For a Chinese rim company who is obviously trying to establish some level of legitimacy, going so far as to produce slick videos about your "sophisticated" production to justify 50% higher pricing than other Chinese carbon rim companies, why is it such a struggle to get the most basic of information: an ERD??

  73. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericm979 View Post
    I can't get the tire off my new LightBicycle wheels! AM928 rims, Schwable NobbyNic 2.3. I taped up the rim with a single layer of Stans and mounted the tire with a tube to compress the tape. Now I can't break the beads. The beadlocks in the rim work too well.

    Any hints? If the tires don't loosen up its going to make it difficult to put a tube in flat tires on the trail.
    I hear you!

    We have two sets of wheels with LB 27.5 rims, love the their light weight and strength and how they perform. Mrs levity's 30mm inner width rims (RM650BC05) give a tight fit, but tires can be removed without too much of a struggle. My 31.6 inner width rims (RM650BC13), on the other hand have an extremely tight tight fit with several types of tubeless tires (Specialized, Schwalbe, WTB), both new and well used and presumably stretched. This is with Stans sealant and soap on the rm and tire and a narrow rim seal strip only in the channel. The bead seat is just a bit too tight. The good news is that they are very unlikely to burp during a ride. The bad news is that I have to play with tire pressure, kneel on the wheel rim, and use a strong stick/rod to push down on the tire sidewalls to unseat the bead. This is not good for the tire, and I even have to remove the brake rotor to make sure I don't bend it when it's facing the ground. Not sure I could even do it in the field if I had to put in a tube due to a large puncture or tear in the tire.


    I have some Uncle Dick's Bead Slip on order and will see if this makes it easier to mount and remove the tires next time around. In any case I think LB may need to decrease the BSD on the RM650BC13 rim a fraction and/or reduce the size of the small bead-lock lip on the inner edge of the shelf (shown as 0.5mm in the drawing above in post #367).
    Last edited by levity; 12-19-2016 at 10:01 PM.

  74. #374
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    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    Is this a long winded way of saying the ERD is 545mm +/- 1mm??

    So you didn't adjust the flange spacing or make other accommodations to correct for the 2.8mm asymmetry? Or for the 2mm offset of all spoke holes relative to that asym line? I know we're taking mm's here, but its sloppy.

    Frankly I don't understand the reluctance to publish an ERD spec. And even when asked, to attempt to deduce it based on previous wheel builds. Does LB not specify a wall thickness in the layup (which would yield an ERD based on equation above)? Do you not measure ERD post-production?

    For a Chinese rim company who is obviously trying to establish some level of legitimacy, going so far as to produce slick videos about your "sophisticated" production to justify 50% higher pricing than other Chinese carbon rim companies, why is it such a struggle to get the most basic of information: an ERD??
    The AM740 rim ad is not up yet. The ERD will be listed on the ad in the technical specs like the other rims on our site. Some people are really asking for these rims so we started selling them before the developers have been able to publish the new ads for these.

    Yes, the rims have a specified thickness and the nipple bed area, and it's a bit thicker for a reinforced version. There are a lot of layers in this area which is why it's best to measure for yourself using a method the builder is comfortable with. I mentioned rounding long spokes down .5mm and short side up .5mm to account for the asymmetric profile, for a 2.8mm offset that will be enough.
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  75. #375
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    Quote Originally Posted by light bicycle View Post
    I mentioned rounding long spokes down .5mm and short side up .5mm to account for the asymmetric profile, for a 2.8mm offset that will be enough.
    If you think that all the spoke holes on the AM740 are all offset by 2.8mm, then you either haven't talked to your rim "developers" or you don't understand offsets and drilling patterns.

    While a uniform 2.8mm offset would be my general expectation, and my preference, it is unfortunately NOT the case for these rims. As I mentioned in my last post, your default stock drilling pattern has alternating holes shifted +/- 2mm from the "asym line" (the line that is 2.8mm offset from rim center). This fact is subtly hidden in the cross sectional drawing above and verified by "Nancy."

    So you really have the "short" spokes being lengthened to accommodate a 0.8mm offset from actual rim center, and the "long" spokes being shortened to accommodate a 4.8mm offset from rim center.

    What is the engineering rationale for that drilling pattern? What could be the benefit to justify lessening the spoke bracing angle on BOTH sides of the hub? You're cancelling much of the benefit of the asymmetry.

    I can think of only one benefit, but I'm skeptical its meaningful. And even more skeptical that someone from LB will identify it.

  76. #376
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    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    If you think that all the spoke holes on the AM740 are all offset by 2.8mm, then you either haven't talked to your rim "developers" or you don't understand offsets and drilling patterns.

    While a uniform 2.8mm offset would be my general expectation, and my preference, it is unfortunately NOT the case for these rims. As I mentioned in my last post, your default stock drilling pattern has alternating holes shifted +/- 2mm from the "asym line" (the line that is 2.8mm offset from rim center). This fact is subtly hidden in the cross sectional drawing above and verified by "Nancy."

    So you really have the "short" spokes being lengthened to accommodate a 0.8mm offset from actual rim center, and the "long" spokes being shortened to accommodate a 4.8mm offset from rim center.

    What is the engineering rationale for that drilling pattern? What could be the benefit to justify lessening the spoke bracing angle on BOTH sides of the hub? You're cancelling much of the benefit of the asymmetry.

    I can think of only one benefit, but I'm skeptical its meaningful. And even more skeptical that someone from LB will identify it.
    All of the rims I looked at happened to have inline spoke drilling offset by 2.8mm, sorry I did not catch that in your other post. My understanding of the alternating spoke drilling is that it's intended for wide rims to better support the structure. Nancy is on leave for a few days but I can check more with her later this week.
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  77. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by light bicycle View Post
    All of the rims I looked at happened to have inline spoke drilling offset by 2.8mm, sorry I did not catch that in your other post. My understanding of the alternating spoke drilling is that it's intended for wide rims to better support the structure. Nancy is on leave for a few days but I can check more with her later this week.
    Interesting that the rims you've seen are inline. Please check your PM as I am getting different input regarding drilling patterns from you and LB via email.

  78. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by levity View Post
    I hear you!

    We have two sets of wheels with LB 27.5 rims, love the their light weight and strength and how they perform. Mrs levity's 30mm inner width rims (RM650BC05) give a tight fit, but tires can be removed without too much of a struggle. My 31.6 inner width rims (RM650BC13), on the other hand have an extremely tight tight fit with several types of tubeless tires (Specialized, Schwalbe, WTB), both new and well used and presumably stretched. This is with Stans sealant and soap on the rm and tire and a narrow rim seal strip only in the channel. The bead seat is just a bit too tight. The good news is that they are very unlikely to burp during a ride. The bad news is that I have to play with tire pressure, kneel on the wheel rim, and use a strong stick/rod to push down on the tire sidewalls to unseat the bead. This is not good for the tire, and I even have to remove the brake rotor to make sure I don't bend it when it's facing the ground. Not sure I could even do it in the field if I had to put in a tube due to a large puncture or tear in the tire.


    I have some Uncle Dick's Bead Slip on order and will see if this makes it easier to mount and remove the tires next time around. In any case I think LB may need to decrease the BSD on the RM650BC13 rim a fraction and/or reduce the size of the small bead-lock lip on the inner edge of the shelf (shown as 0.5mm in the drawing above in post #367).
    Let air out of tire, set wheel on ground, step on tire with either bare foot or stiff sole SPD boot (hiking/ski boots do not work because your foot shifts around too much inside the boot). This is how we break the bead on fat-bike tires, some of which are tighter than any normal-sized tire I've ever encountered.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  79. #379
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    I got a flat last Summer with my LB 31.6mm internal 27.5 rims and I had to walk out. I couldn't get the tire to unseat. Vittoria Morsa 2.3's. When I got home I was able to unseat the tire with my hands, but in the woods with sweaty hands I could not do it. Now I carry a rubber swim cap for triathlons in my camelback. It works. But it does take an extraordinary effort to break the bead. Fortunately I have only had 1 flat and 0 burps in over 1,000 miles on the Morsas. The Neo Motos went on and off more easily but the sidewalls were getting torn, 3 flats in 150 miles, so I went with an Enduro specific tire. Looking to change again to something with better wet grip.
    My name is Chris and I ride a Prophet 650b with a Lefty.

  80. #380
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Let air out of tire, set wheel on ground, step on tire with either bare foot or stiff sole SPD boot ...
    Yep, thanks, I've done that with some success (5.10 Freerider shoes work), but it's best done with two people and has a greater risk of damaging the wheel. Tires with stiffer sidewalls seem easier to pry off this way, but those with supple side walls just give without releasing the bead. I'm hoping that a coating of lube on the tire bead and rim shelf makes it a little easier to pop off.

    Fortunately, unlike Prophet Julio, I haven't had to walk out yet.

  81. #381
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    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    Here's the rim cross section fwiw so others can follow if they so please . . .

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Interested in this rims but I cannot find them in LB shop, is they available or they are new product proto?

  82. #382
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    Quote Originally Posted by light bicycle View Post
    Schwalbe's can be hit and miss dimensionally, are they a tubeless ready version?
    Yea.
    Quote Originally Posted by light bicycle View Post
    Tubeless ready tires seem to have more stable dimensions. Having tubeless sealant in there lubricates things a bit, if you put them on dry with a tube initially that would be part of the reason it's tighter for sure. One thing you could try is 18mm tape in the center so it does not go over the bead seats.
    Wish I'd known that before I installed it. I did one layer of 25mm Stans. I still can't get the tire off. I tried dribbing some soapy water along the bead, still wasn't enough. Then I tried using a broad thin motorcycle tire iron. I can move the bead away from the rim wall a bit but not over the retension hump. Can't get a plastic tire iron in there.

    I've about run out of options other than cutting off a brand new tire. I'm regretting getting rims with bead retension now.

  83. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericm979 View Post
    Yea.


    Wish I'd known that before I installed it. I did one layer of 25mm Stans. I still can't get the tire off. I tried dribbing some soapy water along the bead, still wasn't enough. Then I tried using a broad thin motorcycle tire iron. I can move the bead away from the rim wall a bit but not over the retension hump. Can't get a plastic tire iron in there.

    I've about run out of options other than cutting off a brand new tire. I'm regretting getting rims with bead retension now.
    No guarantees, but some possible methods:

    Try "pulling" rather than "pushing". Use a short piece of dowel or similar and roll the tire carcass around it so you can get a supportive grip on it, position yourself on the opposite side of the bead you're trying to release, and pull. Try a trigger clamp across the rolled tire and opposite wall instead of manually pulling.

  84. #384
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericm979 View Post
    ...I still can't get the tire off. I tried dribbing some soapy water along the bead, still wasn't enough. Then I tried using a broad thin motorcycle tire iron. I can move the bead away from the rim wall a bit but not over the retension hump. Can't get a plastic tire iron in there.

    I've about run out of options other than cutting off a brand new tire. I'm regretting getting rims with bead retension now.
    Eric - Here's my very inelegant solution to dealing with tire beads that are disinclined to release and break loose.

    1. The key is having enough tire pressure to prevent the tire sidewall from collapsing too much when you push on it, but not enough to hold the tire on. The tire should have enough air that when you push on the sidewall it does not completely buckle.

    2. I also remove the brake rotors (quick and easy since mine are center lock) to prevent them from getting damaged.

    3. Put a pad of towels over the tire/rim and kneel on it to hold it down.

    4. Use a hard blunt object to press down the tire sidewall close to the rim. I use the handle of a hammer (!) and push down on the hammer head. A hammer with a rubber grip on the handle is ideal since the base will grab the sidewall better than a wood handle.

    5. Do this in a couple of spot a few inches apart, flip the wheel over and repeat on the other side.

    Yes, it's clumsy, but it has worked so far with several tires. I've only done it in my garage, not in the field since I don't usually carry a hammer on rides. I'll have to improvise if I need to do this in the field (with a shoe, pump handle, stick, rock...)

    Despite the hassles, I like the fact that a bead lock reduces the likelihood of burping a tire. I had a nasty crash a few years ago due to a tire burping so I can appreciate a solid tire mount (though perhaps not so solid as these particular LB rims).

  85. #385
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    My LB rims locks on the beads like a pit bull as well. Especially with Maxxis tires. My Kenda and Specialize tires are easier to get off. Anyway, what I do is similar to what others mentioned. Before doing anything I would let the tires bake in the sun for a while. This is to soften and hopefully expand the tires a bit. Than, I use a C-Clamp to push the bead off. I also wrap the c-clamp with electrical tape to avoid scratching the rim.

  86. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by levity View Post
    Yep, thanks, I've done that with some success (5.10 Freerider shoes work), but it's best done with two people and has a greater risk of damaging the wheel. Tires with stiffer sidewalls seem easier to pry off this way, but those with supple side walls just give without releasing the bead.
    That's why you need very stiff SPD shoes/boots or just use your bare feet IME. I haven't had any success with normal shoes like 5.10s or anything of the sort.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  87. #387
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    Quote Originally Posted by levity View Post

    1. The key is having enough tire pressure to prevent the tire sidewall from collapsing too much when you push on it, but not enough to hold the tire on.

    4. Use a hard blunt object to press down the tire sidewall close to the rim. I use the handle of a hammer (!) and push down on the hammer head. A hammer with a rubber grip on the handle is ideal since the base will grab the sidewall better than a wood handle..
    Thanks, those two tricks did it. I also lubed the bead section I was working on and let the tire warm up in front of a space heater.

  88. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by VitaliT View Post
    Interested in this rims but I cannot find [FONT="]them[/FONT] in LB shop, is they available or they are new product proto?
    The new plus rims are available. We have some more work to do on the product filters etc, but here is a direct link to the ad for now.

    https://www.lightbicycle.com/product...ess-compatible
    http://www.lightbicycle.com
    http://www.us.lightbicycle.com (North American site)
    Instagram: @lightbicycle

  89. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by light bicycle View Post
    The new plus rims are available. We have some more work to do on the product filters etc, but here is a direct link to the ad for now.

    https://www.lightbicycle.com/product...ess-compatible
    Thanks LB, this look close to similar from nextie but 1mm wider.
    Own pair ow yours EN928 and I love them, so going to your EN version at some point.

  90. #390
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    Quote Originally Posted by VitaliT View Post
    Thanks LB, this look close to similar from nextie but 1mm wider.
    Own pair ow yours EN928 and I love them, so going to your EN version at some point.
    Thanks for your support VitaliT!
    http://www.lightbicycle.com
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  91. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by light bicycle View Post
    The new plus rims are available. We have some more work to do on the product filters etc, but here is a direct link to the ad for now.

    https://www.lightbicycle.com/product...ess-compatible
    Do/are you going to produce these in a 29er version?

  92. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghughes.hesinc View Post
    Do/are you going to produce these in a 29er version?
    We don't have plans for a 29er asymmetric version at this time. Currently we have the 45/50mm wide plus rim.
    http://www.lightbicycle.com
    http://www.us.lightbicycle.com (North American site)
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  93. #393
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    Quote Originally Posted by light bicycle View Post
    We don't have plans for a 29er asymmetric version at this time. Currently we have the 45/50mm wide plus rim.
    You should...most of your competitors do...

  94. #394
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    Its not a common rim to want. Not a lot of incentive to make a new mold.

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

  95. #395
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    Light Bicycle Carbon Rims

    Quote Originally Posted by FastBanana View Post
    Its not a common rim to want. Not a lot of incentive to make a new mold.

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
    Fair enough. There are other places to get it.

    http://www.nextie.net/premium-mountain-plus-NXT29XA45

    http://www.carbonbicycle.cc/proshow....2#.WGXAeLU8KEd

    http://www.eiecarbon.com/A29C39-asym...bike-rims.html

  96. #396
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    Hey MTBR,

    If you guys are into cyclocross, we made a new rim which is quite wide. 21mm internally for the clincher version and 22.5mm for the lower pressure hookless version. Both rims are tubeless compatible. These would be fun for a gravel grinder or commuter bike as well.



    Light Bicycle Carbon Rims-road-bicycle-rims.jpg
    http://www.lightbicycle.com
    http://www.us.lightbicycle.com (North American site)
    Instagram: @lightbicycle

  97. #397
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    Quote Originally Posted by VegasSingleSpeed View Post
    You have my order cancellation request in your mailbox.

    I should have stuck to my word and cancelled the order. Kartrin assured me the rims were finished that day and would ship soon. I cooled off a bit from my frustration, told him to ship 'em. The rims arrived mid-November, I stuck the box in a corner and figured I would build up the wheels later in the year...

    ...which was today. I laced the rear wheel without a hitch. Then I pulled the other rim out of the box to lace the front...

    Light Bicycle Carbon Rims-img_20161230_204109828%5B1%5D.jpgLight Bicycle Carbon Rims-img_20161230_204009419%5B1%5D.jpgLight Bicycle Carbon Rims-img_20161230_204029913%5B1%5D.jpg

    ...probably damaged during shipment. At this point, now 6 weeks after the rims were delivered, I doubt I can make a claim

  98. #398
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    Ohhhhhh! That's painful. I feel for you, mang.

    But duuuuude! I woulda had those outta the box within minutes of them being dropped off by the delivery service....but that's how I am with toys. I won't twist the knife further, though. You gotta be pissssssed!

    Hope you get a favorable resolution.
    Always ride with a purpose.

  99. #399
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    That looks bad. I don't know how that would pass quality control

  100. #400
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    I think it was the 1/8" of foam packing that failed.

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