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  1. #1
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    Leaky Stan's Valves.

    I've been pulling my hair trying to get convert my beater wheels to tubeless. They're Nukeproof Horizon wheels which come with tape pre installed. I've tried to put Stan's valves in and I can get the bead to seat no problem. But the issue I'm having is that the valves are leaking air past 20-ish PSI. I've tried using a nickel sized piece of inner tube to act as a secondary gasket. I've replaced the rim tape. I've even used rubber cement around the rubber wedge. But the damn valve is just leaking air. Any tips? I've NEVER had any issues with going tubeless until this wheelset.

    In my initial attempt, I put sealant in, but it seeped through I'm assuming the valve hole in the inner part of the rim and leaked through the spoke holes. I've cleaned everything up and started from scratch. Still no success.

    Any tips would be appreciated.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  2. #2
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    Reputation: RustyIron's Avatar
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    Ahh... the rubber wedge style. I tried those once, and they seemed to leak on the first few tries, so I installed the kind with the round rubber disk. They'll still leak if they're too loose, so make them finger tight, then a little bit more with a channel lock pliers. Maybe you get get the wedge to work if you just tighten it up more.

  3. #3
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    99% sure its not the valve but the tape job. Air will get past the tape and the only place to leak out is the valve hold. Retape it.

  4. #4
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    I've already retaped it several times for good measure. Using no less than 2 different kinds of tape. There's also a removable rim strip which is sealed by the bead of the tire that came with the wheels. Maybe my taping abilities are just not that great haha. When I pulled the tapes off, there wasn't any leaked sealant anywhere near the valve hole. I've tightened the valve nut with pliers. No go. I suppose I can take it to a bike shop and have them do it as well since I'm livid right now trying to get this to work. But before that, I ordered a different set of valves which are contoured to the shape of the rim. I hope that works better. If not, I'll just take it to the shop and have them deal with it.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  5. #5
    All fat, all the time.
    Reputation: Shark's Avatar
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    Try a different brand of valves. Plenty out there.

  6. #6
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    So as a last ditch effort, I retaped it ONE MORE TIME. This time, I used a different kind of tape I found it work. Similar to the rim tape I've been using, but stickier and much more flexible and so much easier to work with. And instead of cutting at the valve hole, I heated up an allen key with a lighter and poked a nice neat hole. I went around the rim twice and lo and behold, it worked! Zero leakage. Unfortunately, I do not know the brand or nomenclature for the tape I used. It's black and shiny, and the spool is made out of plastic. If I knew what it was, I'd buy more of it.

    Edit: It's either vinyl or polyethylene tape. Guess I'll be using that as rim tape from now on.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    I've already retaped it several times for good measure. Using no less than 2 different kinds of tape.
    For future reference, do use an inner tube if there's a next time. It will help set the tape into place.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    mtbpete
    Reputation: changingleaf's Avatar
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    You clearly have air getting around the tape somewhere. Remember, the valve only seals the inside of the rim, not the outside of the rim. Use tape that fills the whole width of the rim and overlaps significantly. If you have any air getting around or through the tape it will travel through the rim and out the biggest hole, which is the valve hole on the outside of the rim.

  9. #9
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
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    Truckerco valves are great. The list of stuff from Stan's that I will use keeps getting shorter.
    I like turtles

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